LovesTimone
Christmas Day 2017
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- Apr 29, 2009
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Day 13: First Day, Tokyo Tour with Mac of Maction Planet
We began our day in the club lounge for breakfast. As lounges go, this one was pretty spectacular. A staff member helps you find a table, if it is crowded, and is available if you need them (as would be the case the next day). One of the biggest surprises for me about Japan was the scarcity and expense of fruits and vegetables. The lounge had some excellent fruit selections, wonderfully ripe fruit, as well as excellent breads, pastries, muesli, and Japanese selections. We were not disappointed in the lounge.
Today was our first day meeting Mac, tour guide extraordinaire who had come so highly recommended by Chris. He started the day bringing us to the Meiji Shrine, located in Shibuya. The purpose of this excursion was to bring us to the feeling of being in a forest in the middle of the city. This was also an opportunity for Mac to educate us in buddhism and shintoism. As we observed the temple, Mac asked if we noticed what happened before people prayed, and I commented that there was always money involved. Mac agreed, commenting on how you have "pay to pray" at the buddhist shrines. This was a good time for me to explain to Mac that we were hoping to see more than shrines, and he was responsive, or at least claimed to be.
While walking or in the subway, we had plenty of time for conversation. We were naturally curious whether Mac was able to make it happen for Chris to join us for a bit. DW went as far as to say that she had made a "silent bet," which is to say a bet with herself, that Chris would not be joining us. Mac got a good chuckle from this, saying that he would love to take her to Vegas and claim at each hand that they had made a silent bet which had paid off. Mac explained that Chris was busy packing to move and that if we were going to see him at all, it would be tomorrow.
We had an interesting conversation about the democratic ways of Japan. I shared with Mac that it was almost shocking to spend multiple days in a Disney park and never once see a plaid. Similarly, unlike either Universal location in the U.S., there was no option for VIP tours, group or private. I asked Mac what VIPs do if they can't have private tours, and he explained that they have to do the same thing as everyone else. He pointed out that the wealthiest people don't have mega-mansions like you see in the States and suggested that we think of Japan as a communist country posing as a democracy, and he meant that with the highest praise. He told stories about companies who thought nothing of spending money for the greater good with concern about its share price. And, truth be told, the country's democratic take on communism was one of the reasons why it is such a special country to a visitor. It does feel pretty good when you are waiting to board a ride at TDL without seeing all the plaids and their groups cutting in and has to be one of the reasons why their bullet train and other rail lines are as prevalent as they are. Mac spoke about their healthcare system, which seemed like a hybrid of sorts between traditional socialized medicine and the American system.
It was then time for lunch. Mac had previously informed us that he wanted to take us to his "absolute favourite ramen shops - there are 10000 in Tokyo and I've eaten in 2000 of them." While we were walking, I discussed my disappointment with Jasmine in comparison to Ko and why she did not meet my expectations as a guide whereas Ko exceeded them. Mac said that he understood where I was coming from but that he had some guests who felt the exact opposite, and I could understand that as well. Regardless, Mac offered to pay for our lunch to compensate for the disappointment, which I appreciated. I do not remember the name of this ramen restaurant. We were the first in line, and you purchase a ticket from a machine and give to the chefs at the counter. It was an excellent bowl of ramen but not particularly memorable in the way that, say, our conveyer belt sushi meal in Osaka was. Maybe it's just because I'm not a big ramen person.
After lunch, we walked more around Shibuya, learning that Japanese love Stranger Things, too, and learning about Hachikō, the city's famous dog.
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It was time, then, for the famous Shibuya Crossing. DW really wanted a video of her crossing, and Mac obliged by taking a video of her crossing as well as philosophizing about what has become an obligatory tourist stop: "It's become a thing to see. It makes it weird for me that people try to assess it. You can't put a ranking or a rating on this. This just is what it is. It's a crossing of people who want to get from there to there. My local friends find it hilarious when I tell them that people come here and go, 'Well, 2 out of 5.' She says, 'What, did my son not cross well enough for them?' Should he have done a little dance for the white people watching from the Starbucks, you know what I mean?"
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The station also provided an opportunity for Mac to provide us with an art history lesson about Taro Okamoto's Myth of Tomorrow mural, what Time magazine once described as a "lost masterpiece."
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This moment epitomizes, I think, the difference between having a guide and going on your own. We certainly would have passed by the mural, possibly without a second glass, but our experience was certainly much richer by Mac making sure that we stopped not just to admire the artwork but learn about its significance.
DD was hell-bent on trying rolled ice cream, so it was time to go to Takeshita Street in Harajuku.
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It was Friday, and Mac mentioned that we had to go today because it was too crowded on weekends. Mac had a lot to say about what he called "insta-shammable" foods, especially boba drink cafes that were apparently spouting up everywhere. Harajuku certainly was all about how desserts looked as opposed to how they tasted. I had something like a churro stuffed with soft-serve ice cream. There was not much of a line that day, but Mac said it would have extended down the block had we gone on Saturday. That dessert was completely unmemorable, either the pastry or the ice-cream, and the same could be said of the rolled ice-cream.
Our next stop in Harajuku was the Harry Harajuku Terrace, billed as the world's first chinchilla, otter, and hedgehog cafe. This was one of those only-in-Japan moments, and we all enjoyed the animal interactions. Like in Kyoto, the space felt like a pet shop except ones that the pets aren't for sale but because admission included a free drink from a vending machine, it became a café.
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Next was Shinjuku, home to Godzilla Road and our first of two Donki's with Mac.
DW found the "Don Don Donki" theme to be infectious and seemed to never tired hearing of it. Mac and I got into an extended conversation about Kit Kats. It is important to know that there are three levels of quality for the Kit Kats. The bottom level are the ones in bags. Some of the flavor combinations are pretty interesting; when I brought them back as gifts for my co-workers, one loved the Mint Peach. Salt Lemon was pretty interesting as well. I was not particularly enamored of the strawberry-flavored ones, which reminded me of the standard artificial flavor. I teased Mac quite a bit about the soy sauce flavor which eluded us and was so highly recommended by Ko as his favorite, and quite exasperated by that point, Mac said that he was going to have a word with Ko about mentioning Kit Kat flavors which are no longer available. The second tier, also for sale at Donki's, are boxed. For the top tier, you have to go to the special Kit Kat chocolatier in Ginza, which we will get to in the next installment.
By that point, our day was coming to an end. I had mentioned to Mac how Ko urged us to get Mac to take us to the best burger place in Tokyo.
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Did Mac ever deliver! Again, that's the difference between doing it on your own and a tour guide. We toured the famous Kabukicho red light district on the way to our final destination, Shogun burger. After passing the various Maid Cafés and Soapland clubs, which I had to ask Mac to explain since the pictures of whales on dolphins on the outside were confusing, we made it to this burger restaurant that features smashed Wagyu patties and are better than most any burger you can get in the U.S. The Japanese may not be able to do pizzas very well, but they sure can do burgers, at least if you are fortunate enough to go to Shogun.
Our final stop was a walk through Piss Alley, which Mac said must have been the inspiration in part for Blade Runner's cityscape. A fascinating place, to be sure. It was then back to our hotel after a full day of sightseeing and conversation with Mac.
Next Installment: Final Full Day in Japan
I was wondering how to get in touch with Mac... I really think that we would like to do a tour, just to get our feet wet.... and my DH would so love that burger !!!! Did he give you tips how to use the trains without getting lost... I am a bit... okay ... alot nervous about using the trains...
Looking forward to reading about your last day in Japan...
I have really enjoyed reading it... lots of good stuff...