I want to buy a new camera for myself and one for my son dont want to spend more than$700 each one. I would like an easy to use camera. My problem in the past was i could never get good night shots always blurry so missed a lot of good shots .I spent a lot on large cameras Nikon D80 its hardly used to heavy to carry everywhere.Would go higher price if its the perfect camera. Advice greatly appreciated. thank you .
Help new camera
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chudlyfudly
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I'm afraid my knowledge on cameras in that price range is somewhat limited (although I'm sure someone here will have some ideas for you) but I can sure try to help with the night shots if that helps!
Your issues with night photography could be a number of things depending on your gear and your experience level. If you're trying to take photographs of buildings/objects in the parks at night then I'd suggest considering buying a tripod (although I imagine from what you've said about your previous camera being too cumbersome to carry you may not want to do this) - part of the reason pictures can be blurry at night is because your camera will often need to use a slow shutter speed to let in as much light to the sensor as possible, especially if you're not defining this setting yourself. As soon as you start getting slower with the shutter speed, the camera starts to record movement in the images - if you're taking a picture of a moving person they'll look blurred, and depending on how slow your shutter speed is, your hand shaking might also be recorded. The effect will be greater the slower the shutter speed.
Here are some examples I've taken with a tripod and a slow shutter speed:
If you're trying to take pictures of people in the dark then the situation becomes potentially harder to manage as a tripod likely wont solve your problems. At this point, you'll need to rely on pushing the ISO up (how sensitive the sensor is to light) which in turn will result in more grain or possibly a slightly soft effect if you're shooting JPEG and the camera's doing in-camera noise reduction, and/or using a faster lens. The term 'fast' in this instance normally refers not to the speed of autofocus, but the widest aperture available on the lens - the wider the aperture, the more light, the brighter the picture. This is represented in f/ numbers, where smaller numbers have wider apertures. So f/2.8 is a wider aperture (lets more light in) than f/5.6, for example. Having a wider aperture and higher ISO may allow you to keep the shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion still (for me, I have a shaky hand and so I struggle at anything slower than 1/100sec).
Here are some examples from Disney where I was taking pictures of people in dark settings, on all of these I was on my lens' widest aperture; f/2.0. This allowed me to keep the shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion, although in some of them you'll see extra grain as a result of my ISO being through the roof (often 12,800):
None of my examples are going to win any awards! But I think they help to illustrate the two different approaches that I find necessary for night photography.
Of course, it's very possible you already know all of this in which case please disregard this information, but I like to do what I can to help and it may be of some help to someone else stumbling across this thread too! Regardless, to me this knowledge is likely quite important for you when it comes to considering your next camera if you're keen on getting results from darker situations. You'll want to consider the camera's ISO performance (how do the pictures look at a high ISO, how high does the native ISO go), what lenses to get with the camera if it's not a fixed lens (although this may be driven by budget as faster lenses can be very expensive), what the widest aperture available is if it is a fixed lens camera...etc.
My pictures were taken using a Fujifilm X100F, but I could also recommend the X100T (previous model) which is more affordable. It's a fixed lens camera, which is both limiting and liberating depending on your view. It's great fun to use, and has manual, physical dials on the camera so you can see at a glance what settings you're using. Just like any other modern digital camera, it does also have an auto mode. With no zoom option it can be hard to get used to, but you can also buy conversion lenses for it which can make the focal length both wider and narrower. These cameras are aimed at a niche market of photographers I would say, so they're not for everyone. But I think they're fantastic!
Your issues with night photography could be a number of things depending on your gear and your experience level. If you're trying to take photographs of buildings/objects in the parks at night then I'd suggest considering buying a tripod (although I imagine from what you've said about your previous camera being too cumbersome to carry you may not want to do this) - part of the reason pictures can be blurry at night is because your camera will often need to use a slow shutter speed to let in as much light to the sensor as possible, especially if you're not defining this setting yourself. As soon as you start getting slower with the shutter speed, the camera starts to record movement in the images - if you're taking a picture of a moving person they'll look blurred, and depending on how slow your shutter speed is, your hand shaking might also be recorded. The effect will be greater the slower the shutter speed.
Here are some examples I've taken with a tripod and a slow shutter speed:
If you're trying to take pictures of people in the dark then the situation becomes potentially harder to manage as a tripod likely wont solve your problems. At this point, you'll need to rely on pushing the ISO up (how sensitive the sensor is to light) which in turn will result in more grain or possibly a slightly soft effect if you're shooting JPEG and the camera's doing in-camera noise reduction, and/or using a faster lens. The term 'fast' in this instance normally refers not to the speed of autofocus, but the widest aperture available on the lens - the wider the aperture, the more light, the brighter the picture. This is represented in f/ numbers, where smaller numbers have wider apertures. So f/2.8 is a wider aperture (lets more light in) than f/5.6, for example. Having a wider aperture and higher ISO may allow you to keep the shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion still (for me, I have a shaky hand and so I struggle at anything slower than 1/100sec).
Here are some examples from Disney where I was taking pictures of people in dark settings, on all of these I was on my lens' widest aperture; f/2.0. This allowed me to keep the shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion, although in some of them you'll see extra grain as a result of my ISO being through the roof (often 12,800):
None of my examples are going to win any awards! But I think they help to illustrate the two different approaches that I find necessary for night photography.
Of course, it's very possible you already know all of this in which case please disregard this information, but I like to do what I can to help and it may be of some help to someone else stumbling across this thread too! Regardless, to me this knowledge is likely quite important for you when it comes to considering your next camera if you're keen on getting results from darker situations. You'll want to consider the camera's ISO performance (how do the pictures look at a high ISO, how high does the native ISO go), what lenses to get with the camera if it's not a fixed lens (although this may be driven by budget as faster lenses can be very expensive), what the widest aperture available is if it is a fixed lens camera...etc.
My pictures were taken using a Fujifilm X100F, but I could also recommend the X100T (previous model) which is more affordable. It's a fixed lens camera, which is both limiting and liberating depending on your view. It's great fun to use, and has manual, physical dials on the camera so you can see at a glance what settings you're using. Just like any other modern digital camera, it does also have an auto mode. With no zoom option it can be hard to get used to, but you can also buy conversion lenses for it which can make the focal length both wider and narrower. These cameras are aimed at a niche market of photographers I would say, so they're not for everyone. But I think they're fantastic!
jamez2014
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 152
I'm afraid my knowledge on cameras in that price range is somewhat limited (although I'm sure someone here will have some ideas for you) but I can sure try to help with the night shots if that helps!
Your issues with night photography could be a number of things depending on your gear and your experience level. If you're trying to take photographs of buildings/objects in the parks at night then I'd suggest considering buying a tripod (although I imagine from what you've said about your previous camera being too cumbersome to carry you may not want to do this) - part of the reason pictures can be blurry at night is because your camera will often need to use a slow shutter speed to let in as much light to the sensor as possible, especially if you're not defining this setting yourself. As soon as you start getting slower with the shutter speed, the camera starts to record movement in the images - if you're taking a picture of a moving person they'll look blurred, and depending on how slow your shutter speed is, your hand shaking might also be recorded. The effect will be greater the slower the shutter speed.
Here are some examples I've taken with a tripod and a slow shutter speed:
View attachment 240804
View attachment 240805
View attachment 240808
View attachment 240806
If you're trying to take pictures of people in the dark then the situation becomes potentially harder to manage as a tripod likely wont solve your problems. At this point, you'll need to rely on pushing the ISO up (how sensitive the sensor is to light) which in turn will result in more grain or possibly a slightly soft effect if you're shooting JPEG and the camera's doing in-camera noise reduction, and/or using a faster lens. The term 'fast' in this instance normally refers not to the speed of autofocus, but the widest aperture available on the lens - the wider the aperture, the more light, the brighter the picture. This is represented in f/ numbers, where smaller numbers have wider apertures. So f/2.8 is a wider aperture (lets more light in) than f/5.6, for example. Having a wider aperture and higher ISO may allow you to keep the shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion still (for me, I have a shaky hand and so I struggle at anything slower than 1/100sec).
Here are some examples from Disney where I was taking pictures of people in dark settings, on all of these I was on my lens' widest aperture; f/2.0. This allowed me to keep the shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion, although in some of them you'll see extra grain as a result of my ISO being through the roof (often 12,800):
View attachment 240810
View attachment 240811
View attachment 240809
View attachment 240812
None of my examples are going to win any awards! But I think they help to illustrate the two different approaches that I find necessary for night photography.
Of course, it's very possible you already know all of this in which case please disregard this information, but I like to do what I can to help and it may be of some help to someone else stumbling across this thread too! Regardless, to me this knowledge is likely quite important for you when it comes to considering your next camera if you're keen on getting results from darker situations. You'll want to consider the camera's ISO performance (how do the pictures look at a high ISO, how high does the native ISO go), what lenses to get with the camera if it's not a fixed lens (although this may be driven by budget as faster lenses can be very expensive), what the widest aperture available is if it is a fixed lens camera...etc.
My pictures were taken using a Fujifilm X100F, but I could also recommend the X100T (previous model) which is more affordable. It's a fixed lens camera, which is both limiting and liberating depending on your view. It's great fun to use, and has manual, physical dials on the camera so you can see at a glance what settings you're using. Just like any other modern digital camera, it does also have an auto mode. With no zoom option it can be hard to get used to, but you can also buy conversion lenses for it which can make the focal length both wider and narrower. These cameras are aimed at a niche market of photographers I would say, so they're not for everyone. But I think they're fantastic!
fantastic pictures (some great inspiration), i just got a fuji x-t10 ready for my disney trip later in the year, and the fuji system is great certainly brought back alot of the enjoyment for me, cant wait to take mine to WDW, i got a (amazing) deal from the fuji refurb with the 35mm 1.4 and the x-t10 and currently cant see any reason to surplus the kit for the moment, eventually im sure i will add to it, but i certianly whole heartdly recommend the fuji X mount cameras.
chudlyfudly
Mouseketeer
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- Messages
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Thanks for your kind words! The X-T10 is brilliant - I started out as a Canon shooter and eventually got the 5D mark iii but I found myself interested in the Fuji cameras and ended up buying an X-T1. I completely ditched Canon after that and eventually ended up buying the X-Pro 2 and the X100F. The 35mm 1.4 is a great lens, I've found it very liberating shooting only primes for the past 18 months or so. I've also found that I really enjoy having only a couple of lenses to choose from (I own the 23mm 1.4, 16mm 1.4 and 56mm 1.2 - I did own the 35mm f/2 for a time, but it didn't have much of a place amongst the other lenses at the time).
Would love to see some of your shots with the X-T10 once you've had your trip, these cameras don't get enough love IMO!
As stated, the answer to "blurry night shots" isn't necessarily a different camera. It depends on what is causing the blurry night shots, and then having the photographic knowledge to correct it.
Generally speaking, night shots may be blurry because -- The ISO is too high, causing noise. The ISO is too low, causing shutter speed to be too low, causing motion blur and camera shake. The shutter speed simply is too low, again causing motion blur and camera shake. Or, you are having trouble with the autofocus system at night.
So many of the issues are user related. Among gear upgrades that can help resolve the issues --
-A lens with wider aperture, to allow in more light, thereby increasing shutter speed.
-Lens with VR or IS
-Camera with higher possible ISO, or simply higher quality at high ISO.
-More advanced autofocus system.
Among the user issues:
- Knowing how to adjust aperture, shutter speed and ISO as necessary
- Using a tripod
-Being more precise with focus
- Good photographic technique for steadier handholding
Generally speaking, night shots may be blurry because -- The ISO is too high, causing noise. The ISO is too low, causing shutter speed to be too low, causing motion blur and camera shake. The shutter speed simply is too low, again causing motion blur and camera shake. Or, you are having trouble with the autofocus system at night.
So many of the issues are user related. Among gear upgrades that can help resolve the issues --
-A lens with wider aperture, to allow in more light, thereby increasing shutter speed.
-Lens with VR or IS
-Camera with higher possible ISO, or simply higher quality at high ISO.
-More advanced autofocus system.
Among the user issues:
- Knowing how to adjust aperture, shutter speed and ISO as necessary
- Using a tripod
-Being more precise with focus
- Good photographic technique for steadier handholding
Last edited:
chudlyfudly
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- May 10, 2017
- Messages
- 228
This is spot on - pretty much everything I wanted to say in a nice concise post - tl;dr look here.
Thanks everyone i am not very good with cameras have 2 expensive cameras to sophisticated for me i never use .Nikon D80 few years old hardly used . i want a camera that is light as will be travelling to see my son in Japan he just got excepted to University there.We have travelled there few times but never get night shots as we never know how. missed lots of good shots .This weekend will go to a camera shop to see what they have .I brought a tripod never used it good camera wasted on me.
chudlyfudly
Mouseketeer
- Joined
- May 10, 2017
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- 228
I've heard great things about the Fujifilm X70, which is more of a point and shoot while retaining a good sensor (16.3mp) alongside the manual controls that newer Fujifilm cameras are popular for. It doesn't have a viewfinder (which would put me off, but you can buy an add-on optical one). It's very small and compact. I believe it's been discontinued, but I also believe that there are still suppliers out there with new ones, and failing that you can probably find a second hand one too. I'm in the UK but it looks like it's available in the US for $699, so right around your budget. Take a look - https://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-X70..._2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496250859&sr=8-2&keywords=x70
I feel that this and my input above is probably about as much help as I personally can be, but I do think that going to your camera shop this weekend is a great idea as they'll no doubt have some better ideas of the sort of thing that would be appropriate.
I feel that this and my input above is probably about as much help as I personally can be, but I do think that going to your camera shop this weekend is a great idea as they'll no doubt have some better ideas of the sort of thing that would be appropriate.
Honestly... then what phone do you have?
The newest smart phones will perform better than "expensive cameras" if you don't know what you're doing.
(The "expensive cameras" have more potential... if you know what you're doing. But sticking things on auto and just pointing.... the iphone 7 plus, for example, will do better).
Ihave an iphone but dont use it only as an emergency sounds crazy but i dont like phones i use it for music when i walk but i dont know much about it i brought it so my kids can contact me .
ITS a iphone 5 got a deal on it i do know how to text im behind the times my kids tell me.
Thank you will check that one some one recommended Lumix LX100 MY son usually takes a lot of photos on our trips but hes not always there.I think i will take a class to learn how as its crazy to have cameras and be so backward like me.
Pooh2
Dis Veteran
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- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 4,726
I bought the Panasonic lx100 a couple of months ago and love it. It is very sharp including in lowlight.
It was on sale for $649 at B and H Photo.
There are lots of reviews on youtube.
I bought a book from Amazon, "Photographer's Guide to the Panasonic Lumix; much more helpful than the instructions that came with the camera.
I end up using the lx100 instead of my dslr because of it's size (had shoulder repairs last winter, lightweight is appealing at this point).
The lx100 is larger than my previous point and shoot (lx5) and larger than others in it's class but with some neurological issues, that is a plus for me to have something more solid to grab onto.
The view finder is a huge plus for me.
I don't do much post processing and have been very pleased with the photos straight out of the camera.
I have not tried the video yet so cannot speak to that but would highly recommend the camera for stills and travel photography.
Thank you so much for your help i think this will be the camera i will buy for me then one similar for my son we can then both test them. i brought a video player from B&H They are very good company i will get that book to you are so kind to help me im like a dummie with technology.Do you by chance have any night shots taken with it?I hope your shoulder is better it must be painful my husband broke his shoulder 2 years ago and last year his neck so he doesnt travel with us far .
mom2rtk
Invented the term "Characterpalooza"
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- 62,647
Not a bad start. But I'd probably go f/8 to f/11 so I could increase the shutter speed. I generally can do 4-7 seconds that way. I use bulb mode and tend to vary based on the bursts.
You'll also want a remote shutter release to avoid camera shake when you push the button.
Also turn off stabilization on our lens if you have it. That itself can cause a small shake.
More than small!
I taught a landscape class, and emphasized to turn off VR/IS when on a tripod. Unfortunately, some people forgot to do so on the day of shooting.
But here are the same shots, with VR/IS on and off:
Off:
untitled (194 of 202).jpg by Adam Brown, on FlickrOn:
untitled (191 of 202).jpg by Adam Brown, on FlickrAbsolutely TURN OFF VR/IS when on a tripod. It will ruin your shot.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...dmc_zs70_k_lumix_dmc_zs70_digital_camera.html
I have the Panasonic sz50--12MP replaced by sz60-- MP 18 now sz70 21MP
Saw the sz60 at Costco the other day priced $399.99 - $49.99 = $349.99
Got tired of carrying the big stuff around.
If you want to spend more they have the FZ300 that is weatherproof (not waterproof).
That means you can take pictures in the rain. Not designed to submerge underwater.
I have the Panasonic sz50--12MP replaced by sz60-- MP 18 now sz70 21MP
Saw the sz60 at Costco the other day priced $399.99 - $49.99 = $349.99
Got tired of carrying the big stuff around.
If you want to spend more they have the FZ300 that is weatherproof (not waterproof).
That means you can take pictures in the rain. Not designed to submerge underwater.
Last edited:
lisaviolet
DIS Legend
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2002
- Messages
- 13,954
Here are a few point and shoot options (and bridge cameras), as I am thinking that you are looking at just pushing a button and getting your shot. Not the technical part of photography.
In your price range -
1) Panasonic FZ300 (already mentioned)
*not overly heavy but not a small camera
*24X optical zoom
*not great at low light, okay but not great (speaking about ignoring technical ways of dealing with this or using a tripod)
*great all around camera in your price range
*viewfinder
*fantastic tilt screen
2) Sony HX 80 and HX 90
Small almost pocket size cameras with pretty good reviews
3) With the release of the Panasonic FZ2500 the Panasonic FZ1000 is probably close to or in your price range
*not excessively heavy but large
*its sensor allows you to use automatic for low light shots and get good results (same premise as the Sony RX10 below - much lower price and even though the specifications say the weight is pretty well equal the plastic nature of the FZ1000 makes it feel so much lighter in your hands. )
*good focal range
_______________________________________________________________________
Not in your price range but possibly worth it for you ---
Sony HX100v
*very small and light camera that is getting rave reviews - image quality - because of the sensor on the camera and being pocket sized
*but not far for optical zoom
Sony RX10iii
* heavy and big but will give you the ability to not use a tripod, just push a button, and take pictures. You might want something lighter but really is the top of the line for bridge/point and shoots.
These are somewhat lower light pictures - or simply taken at night - and all taken with a Sony RX10ii on automatic (no tripod - one button shooting). The clarity is really incredible on this camera when choosing automatic. ---
_________________________________________________________
Also, my photos in my signature and avatar were taken with a very simple, very cheap camera - Kodak EasyShare z712 IS. It is not made anymore but still can be purchased on Amazon and Ebay.
I just said it was not great in low light on another forum - speaking about using automatic only - but I was just viewing a lot of old night shots. It is really not that bad. And such a simple camera. Perfect size - not too big and not too small.
It needs a rechargeable battery as it eats batteries! But a really simple find all these years later.
I am ordering another one myself.
_____________________
Also, please go and hold whatever cameras that you are interested in. It is beyond important that it feels good in your hands.
Last edited:
Beautiful photos i thank you for your help im going to try out several cameras.Here are a few point and shoot options (and bridge cameras), as I am thinking that you are looking at just pushing a button and getting your shot. Not the technical part of photography.
In your price range -
1) Panasonic FZ300 (already mentioned)
*not overly heavy but not a small camera
*24X optical zoom
*not great at low light, okay but not great (speaking about ignoring technical ways of dealing with this or using a tripod)
*great all around camera in your price range
*viewfinder
*fantastic tilt screen
2) Sony HX 80 and HX 90
Small almost pocket size cameras with pretty good reviews
3) With the release of the Panasonic FZ2500 the Panasonic FZ1000 is probably close to or in your price range
*not excessively heavy but large
*its sensor allows you to use automatic for low light shots and get good results (same premise as the Sony RX10 below - much lower price and even though the specifications say the weight is pretty well equal the plastic nature of the FZ1000 makes it feel so much lighter in your hands. )
*good focal range
_______________________________________________________________________
Not in your price range but possibly worth it for you ---
Sony HX100v
*very small and light camera that is getting rave reviews - image quality - because of the sensor on the camera and being pocket sized
*but not far for optical zoom
Sony RX10iii
* heavy and big but will give you the ability to not use a tripod, just push a button, and take pictures. You might want something lighter but really is the top of the line for bridge/point and shoots.
These are somewhat lower light pictures - or simply taken at night - and all taken with a Sony RX10ii on automatic (no tripod - one button shooting) ---
_________________________________________________________
Also, my photos in my signature and avatar were taken with a very simple, very cheap camera - Kodak EasyShare z712 IS. It is not made anymore but still can be purchased on Amazon and Ebay.
I just said it was not great in low light on another forum - speaking about using automatic only - but I was just viewing a lot of old night shots. It is really not that bad. And such a simple camera. Perfect size - not too big and not too small.
It needs a rechargeable battery as it eats batteries! But a really simple find all these years later.
I am ordering another one myself.
_____________________
Also, please go and hold whatever cameras that you are interested in. It is beyond important that it feels good in your hands.
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