What's your Focus point 'strategy'?

Do you use auto mode, manual mode, one of the program modes, like sports? Amongst other things this is what I meant by settings.

I am not really a Canon person so hopefully one of the Canon people will come to your rescue with more specific info.

Let's hear it Canonites! Can you help out Jenseib???

~MM

I usually use manual
 
That sounds like a small DOF problem. A typical 50mm is around f/1.4-1.8 wide open. That is going to give you a tiny area in focus even at over ten feet from the focus point. I typically like to stick with f/2.8 as a minimum when shooting a face with a 50mm. It is also going to be sharper at that aperture.
 
That sounds like a small DOF problem. A typical 50mm is around f/1.4-1.8 wide open. That is going to give you a tiny area in focus even at over ten feet from the focus point. I typically like to stick with f/2.8 as a minimum when shooting a face with a 50mm. It is also going to be sharper at that aperture.

I actually don't have the problem with my 50mm, but I don't shoot with that much. I shoot with my Tamron 28-80 mostly. I usually have it wide open though...being 3.5 I beleive when at 28mm. I just can't seem to get the face sharp. And thats the part I want focused. Even though I think I am focusing there, it always seems to have something..like her shoulders..in focus. So closing the aperture a bit may help then?
 
I would definately set the aperture to 5.6-7 just to see if it makes a difference. Try a couple of shots on manual and a couple on auto and see if that helps you narrow it down.

It could be a backfocus problem but that seems to be thrown out there so much these days, that I'm starting to believe it's not near as common as most people want to believe it is.

You are overiding your AF point and setting it manually, right? I think you said you were. I have long since given up on letting my Canons pick my AF point for me. I can't tell you how many shots I missed and how frustrated I was with my cameras before I finally learned that the camera just wasn't as good at deciding what I wanted to focus on as I was!

If you're fortunate enough to have a lens that supports constant manual focus, you can set auto-focus to a point and let the camera get it close quickly and then tack it in manually just before you shoot. This is what I do most of the time.

Another good test is the battery test.

1) Get 3-5 batteries. D's work best, IMO but any size can work.
2) Stand them up 1 after the other from front to back on a table-top, 2 inches apart, and half sticking out from the one before it when viewed from the front. Staggered, in other words.
3) Set your aperture to various settings from open to more closed
4) Take a shot, preferrably level with the table, focused on each battery from front to back, document your settings for the shot, and review your results

I've probably taken a few hundred shots doing this at various apertures and shutter speeds. I've probably learned more about my cameras and how they behave by doing this, than any other single thing I've ever done, and it all started out as a focusing exercise. Now I do it just to teach myself things. The batteries don't complain while I'm learning! :rotfl2:
 

I would definately set the aperture to 5.6-7 just to see if it makes a difference. Try a couple of shots on manual and a couple on auto and see if that helps you narrow it down.

It could be a backfocus problem but that seems to be thrown out there so much these days, that I'm starting to believe it's not near as common as most people want to believe it is.

You are overiding your AF point and setting it manually, right? I think you said you were. I have long since given up on letting my Canons pick my AF point for me. I can't tell you how many shots I missed and how frustrated I was with my cameras before I finally learned that the camera just wasn't as good at deciding what I wanted to focus on as I was!

If you're fortunate enough to have a lens that supports constant manual focus, you can set auto-focus to a point and let the camera get it close quickly and then tack it in manually just before you shoot. This is what I do most of the time.

Another good test is the battery test.

1) Get 3-5 batteries. D's work best, IMO but any size can work.
2) Stand them up 1 after the other from front to back on a table-top, 2 inches apart, and half sticking out from the one before it when viewed from the front. Staggered, in other words.
3) Set your aperture to various settings from open to more closed
4) Take a shot, preferrably level with the table, focused on each battery from front to back, document your settings for the shot, and review your results

I've probably taken a few hundred shots doing this at various apertures and shutter speeds. I've probably learned more about my cameras and how they behave by doing this, than any other single thing I've ever done, and it all started out as a focusing excercise. Now I do it just to teach myself things. The batteries don't complain while I'm learning! :rotfl2:

Thanks. I think I will go play with batterries in a few minutes now. :rotfl2:
 
Jen, I really think it's either a depth of field issue or a lens issue. That's not to say that your lens is bad. As others have said, the depth of field is pretty shallow when wide open.

Additionally, lenses all have a "sweet spot", a point at which they perform their best, providing the sharpest picture possible. All lenses are different, but most don't perform their best wide open. I would definitely stop it down a bit and see what you get. So definitely do the battery test, but since faces are an issue, also try a couple shots of Claire at different apertures and see what you get.

I hope you'll post your results back here!
 
Jen, I really think it's either a depth of field issue or a lens issue. That's not to say that your lens is bad. As others have said, the depth of field is pretty shallow when wide open.

Additionally, lenses all have a "sweet spot", a point at which they perform their best, providing the sharpest picture possible. All lenses are different, but most don't perform their best wide open. I would definitely stop it down a bit and see what you get. So definitely do the battery test, but since faces are an issue, also try a couple shots of Claire at different apertures and see what you get.

I hope you'll post your results back here!

I don't think it's the lens, because I have one other lens that does it too. But I don't like that lens much anyways. ( Ia ctually have two others that I don' use much that do that and then the telephoto one)

I do wonder if the other lens is bad though. It does alot of that trying to focus thing, especially if the battery is low. I have had that probelm with that one from day one. I wrote canon and they told me nothing was wrong with it. :confused3

I did try to have Claire let me take some of her yesterday...but the mood wasn't with her. :laughing:
 
I don't think it's the lens, because I have one other lens that does it too. But I don't like that lens much anyways. ( Ia ctually have two others that I don' use much that do that and then the telephoto one)

I do wonder if the other lens is bad though. It does alot of that trying to focus thing, especially if the battery is low. I have had that probelm with that one from day one. I wrote canon and they told me nothing was wrong with it. :confused3

I did try to have Claire let me take some of her yesterday...but the mood wasn't with her. :laughing:

Maybe the batteries will cooperate better than Claire? :rotfl2:

Try it stopped down and see if it helps.

Some cameras have microadjustments you can make to the focus. Maybe someone will chime in and say if the 50D does. I have the T2i and it does not.
 
Maybe the batteries will cooperate better than Claire? :rotfl2:

Try it stopped down and see if it helps.

Some cameras have microadjustments you can make to the focus. Maybe someone will chime in and say if the 50D does. I have the T2i and it does not.

I'll probablly tell the batteries to behave too! :rotfl:
 
One of the great things about the 50D is that it does have micro-adjustment on the focus to adjust and correct for individual lenses, as I understand it.

Unfortunately, I've never had a camera that has this feature. Why they left it out of the 60D I will never understand. :confused3
 
One of the great things about the 50D is that it does have micro-adjustment on the focus to adjust and correct for individual lenses, as I understand it.

Unfortunately, I've never had a camera that has this feature. Why they left it out of the 60D I will never understand. :confused3

How do you do this micro adjusting?
 
I have no idea since my cameras have never had it.

One of the best, if not THE best resources on the net for everything Canon is:

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/

Thanks JimboJimbo for turning me on to this site.

Take a look in the cameras and/or lenses forum there and do some searches. That's the best advice I have.

Thanks..but with a trip in 4 days. I wil lhave to wait til lI get back to look that over.
Ok, I have figured out how to actually make the adjustment on the camera...I just don't get how you know if you have the RIGHT adjustment. I see patterns, etc to take pics of, but what is my goal on these patterns? then I have no clue if I need to move it forward or backwards.

It talks about distance moving on your screen? What is that? I don;t have anything on my screen that shows distance
 
Thanks..but with a trip in 4 days. I wil lhave to wait til lI get back to look that over.
Ok, I have figured out how to actually make the adjustment on the camera...I just don't get how you know if you have the RIGHT adjustment. I see patterns, etc to take pics of, but what is my goal on these patterns? then I have no clue if I need to move it forward or backwards.

It talks about distance moving on your screen? What is that? I don;t have anything on my screen that shows distance

Let me stress again, I don't know if that's your problem. Have you done the battery test yet? You should do that FIRST, IMHO, to see where you are.

To repeat again, I'm just trying to help. I have never even SEEN the micro adjustment screens. I've just read about them. I offered you the best resource(s) I have and know about. Maybe somebody else will come along that actually has this feature and knows.

Personally, and even though I wish I had it, I think this micro adjustment is highly overrated and is often used a crutch when real focusing problems can't be figured out.

The "Battery Test" will tell the tale if you're willing to do it and take the time to do it right.
 
Thanks..but with a trip in 4 days. I wil lhave to wait til lI get back to look that over.
Ok, I have figured out how to actually make the adjustment on the camera...I just don't get how you know if you have the RIGHT adjustment. I see patterns, etc to take pics of, but what is my goal on these patterns? then I have no clue if I need to move it forward or backwards.

It talks about distance moving on your screen? What is that? I don;t have anything on my screen that shows distance

One of the problems with microadjustment is that many people do not know how to do it correctly, and even then it is usually at a distance where we seldom take photos. Since you like to take portraits then the camera & lens should be adjusted for a typical portrait distance, maybe 6-10'. Adjusting the setup for 1-2' a (typical microadjust distance) may mean it is not in sharp focus at other distances.

My guess (and it is only a guess) is Canon removed MA from the 60D because of all the trouble it caused for typical users of the 50D. The 7D is targeted at a different group and maybe Canon assumes they know more (maybe a bad assumption too).

Here is a very good article on "soft" lenses, how they get that way, and what we can do about it:
[url[http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2010/03/this-lens-is-soft-and-other-facts[/url]
 
Here is a very good article on "soft" lenses, how they get that way, and what we can do about it:
[url[http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2010/03/this-lens-is-soft-and-other-facts[/url]

Thanks for the Link Bob! This was an excellent article and it will go a long way towards restoring my sanity when I become aware of the differences in my equipment. I had figured out previously that my AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G DX Lens didn't focus as sharp on my D90 put performed well on my D60. It bothered me but I just decided to deal with it and not return the lens. Now I'll have a better perspective about what is going on and I'll work it as best as I'm able.


Marlton Mom
 
HELP!!! I am having a heck of a time getting my DD's face focused. I use the center point most times, but sometimes will use the tip point. But no matter what I seem to have a not so focused face. I do mainly shoot with a wide open aperture. I guess I should maybe close it up a bit?
Here are some shots for reference on how her face is kind of blurred.

This picture would be awesome if it had her face as the focal point...which I thought I was doing.

sidesmile-1.jpg


And this one I took just the other night. All the pics I took seem to just have a blah face, not details.

project1.jpg


I don't seem to have this problem with objects, just faces.


With the software your using on your computer does it have an option to show you which focus point actually was used? If so check that. (I posted 2 examples on page 3 of this thread).

Looking at the first picture here the area around her shoulder is in focus. If indeed you did have your focus point on her face, then maybe the lens need to be calibrated. Many lenses can have front or back focus issues. I've noticed this issue more with 3rd party lenses (Sigma and Tamron).

I obviously have jumped in here kind of late and just read though the other posts quickly so I don't know if this had been mentioned or not.

You can easily test for back/front focus. There are a number of web sites out there with a simple google search.

I did see that DOF was mentioned. When shooting wide open it is very important that your focus be spot on and the closer you are to your subject the less room you have to miss.

Is is possible that you though you focused on her faced, the recomposed your shot and didn't keep your finger half pressing the shutter and the camera refocused?

How far from the subject were you? Lenses do have a minimum focusing distance and that can throw off your focus.
 
With the software your using on your computer does it have an option to show you which focus point actually was used? If so check that. (I posted 2 examples on page 3 of this thread).

Looking at the first picture here the area around her shoulder is in focus. If indeed you did have your focus point on her face, then maybe the lens need to be calibrated. Many lenses can have front or back focus issues. I've noticed this issue more with 3rd party lenses (Sigma and Tamron).

I obviously have jumped in here kind of late and just read though the other posts quickly so I don't know if this had been mentioned or not.

You can easily test for back/front focus. There are a number of web sites out there with a simple google search.

I did see that DOF was mentioned. When shooting wide open it is very important that your focus be spot on and the closer you are to your subject the less room you have to miss.

Is is possible that you though you focused on her faced, the recomposed your shot and didn't keep your finger half pressing the shutter and the camera refocused?

How far from the subject were you? Lenses do have a minimum focusing distance and that can throw off your focus.

Kids are also famous for moving and when you have a really shallow depth of field, that can be Murder on your clairity.

~MM
 
Thanks for all the info.
I do you use photoshop...not sure if I can find the focus point on that...I do KNOW that I either shot it with the top center point or midddle point selected though. Thats why I don't get why it does her shoulder so focused. It might be the lens then. It seems to focus there the most I find in most of my pictures.
I have a lot of reading to do and so much more to learn.
 


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