The Learning Curve

LOL, Andy. I could probably explain metering modes in theory if I had to, but when it comes to figuring out exactly what each of the metering icons means on my own camera, I'm not really sure. :lmao:

I do believe that spot metering is useful in low light situations, as it focuses and enhances just that one area. Using the histogram (page 5) is also helpful here, too.

http://tech.yahoo.com/gd/fine-tuning-exposure-with-a-digital-camera-s-metering-system/153028

Fine-Tuning Exposure with a Digital Camera's Metering System

Adapted From: Digital SLR Cameras & Photography for Dummies:

Your camera's exposure metering system is a tireless friend that keeps plugging away, calculating its reckoning of the correct exposure (based on parameters you set) regardless of whether you choose to pay attention or not. It's available whether you're setting exposure manually or using one of the programmed or priority modes. You can't really turn off the exposure meter completely when the camera is on - although it might go to sleep after a few seconds of inactivity. Even then, as soon as you tap the shutter release button, a sleeping meter wakes up, looks at the current view through the lens, and reports its findings.

How does metering work?
The reason dSLR (digital single lens reflex) exposure meters are so accurate is that they interpret the actual light passing through the lens, which is flipped upward by the mirror toward the viewfinder (or sideways in the case of cameras like those in the Olympus E series). Some of the light is used for viewing, and some is used to measure the exposure. If you zoom the lens (which often changes the amount of light passing through) or place a gadget like a filter in front of the lens to modify the light, the meter sees the results and takes them into account. The metering system is also linked to the shutter speed and aperture controls, so it understands the effects of both on the recommended exposure.

Choosing a metering scheme
Metering schemes on your dSLR enable you to configure the photosensitive elements of the exposure system (which can number from a dozen or so to thousands of individual light sensors) so that the exposure system interprets the incoming light in a specific way. Table 1 explains how photographers typically use the most popular schemes.

Table 1: Metering Schemes

Scheme
What It Does
Best Used For . . .

Center weighting
This system looks at the entire frame, but tends to emphasize the portion of the image in the center, assigning a center weighting determined by the vendor, but which usually amounts to about 80 percent for the center and 20 percent for the rest of the image.
Scenes in which the most important subjects are in the center of the frame. Perhaps you're shooting portraits or close-ups of flowers and, naturally, want to center your subject. Center weighting zeroes in on those subjects and isn't influenced by very bright or very dark areas outside the center.

Spot metering
This method makes its exposure recommendations based only on a center spot shown in the viewfinder which might measure 6mm to 12mm. Illumination outside the spot is ignored. Your dSLR might allow you to choose the size of the center spot.
Subjects that don't dominate the frame, and which are surrounded by areas of misleading brightness or darkness.

Multipoint metering
This mode is the default metering mode for most dSLRs. It collects exposure data from many points on the screen (usually not shown in the viewfinder) and uses sophisticated algorithms to decide which points to use in calculating the correct exposure.
Any scenes that don't require the special treatment provided by the other two methods. In other words, you'll use multipoint metering almost all the time.

More versatility with metering options
Your digital SLR has several options that can increase your exposure versatility:

Lock in settings with exposure lock control. When you press the button, the current exposure (or focus, or both) is locked until you press the button again or take a photo. This lock gives you the freedom to set exposure and then reframe the photo any way you like without worrying that the preferred settings will change. This option is different from the normal system of locking exposure and/or focus when you press the shutter release, partially because you don't have to keep your finger on the release button. Exposure lock control is sometimes combined with a focus lock adjustment.
Shoot a series of photos at different exposures by setting your dSLR's bracketing system. The camera takes the first picture at the metered exposure, and then it takes the second and third at, say, one-third stop less exposure and one-third stop more exposure. You can set the exact increment, choosing to bracket by half or full stops if you want. You can also bracket parameters other than exposure, such as white balance and flash. Your camera might allow you to bracket more than one of these, and in the order you choose.

Adjust the shutter speed and/or aperture combination in use without changing the exposure at all. If the camera chooses 1/250 of a second at f8, spinning the command dial to the right might switch to 1/500 of a second at f5.6, or to the left to change to 1/125 of a second at f11. All these exposures are the same, but they provide different useful combinations of shutter speeds and f-stop sizes.

And another:

http://www.jonbrockphotography.com/section96358_25097.html
 
Hi Guys, not been on the DIS for a while but with my trip coming up in 19 days i thought i would take a look again.

anyway, since my disney trip last year i have bought a nikon d40x with 18:55 lens. unfortunatley ive had a bit of a busy year and so i havent been able to practice at all. i was hoping to have mastered some basics in time for this years trip but i think i will be sticking to auto modes unless i feel very brave at some point! :)
 
I don't think we've touched on metering yet. (BTW, there's an Index in the OP now for easy reference).

I'm happy to tackle it, but seeing as it's still beyond my knowledge base :surfweb: I'll need some help.

Everyone - please post Metering articles you know to be helpful, and if any of the experienced users could help us out, that would be great.

Here is an earlier thread on the subject.
 

Its amazing the dust and sand that gets in all the nooks and crannies even when items are put up not in use in a bag.

After get done shooting at a day at the park a quick once over with a lipstick brush and microfiber cloth or the likes will do wonders for the life of your gear.

Here is a article I found when looking for a pic of a lipstick brush

http://www.nyip.com/ezine/techtips/tuneup.html

http://www.connectedphotographer.com/issues/issue200502/00001505001.html
Thanks. I added these to the Sensor Dust and Cleaning page. I never heard of a lipstick brush before - I take it you use it more on the body parts than the glass, correct?
 
Thanks. I added these to the Sensor Dust and Cleaning page. I never heard of a lipstick brush before - I take it you use it more on the body parts than the glass, correct?

They are like a womens tube of lipstick they even kinda look like it you twist up the bottom and the brush comes out. Its very soft and is for dusting of the end of the lens. I have one I use not for the lens but for the nooks and crannies of the lens body and the camera itself.

If you read the thread I started about what is in your gadget bag you might see some other neat stuff also :thumbsup2
http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1850125

0300.jpg

ultbrsh.jpg
 
ok, so now you will know i really am i beginner - i felt very silly asking this on the Nikonians forums :confused3 and so i thought you guys might be a little easier on me :rotfl:

when would i need an external flash?

and why do lenses need/use hoods?

told you they were silly questions but hey, we all have to start somewhere right ;)
 
ok, so now you will know i really am i beginner - i felt very silly asking this on the Nikonians forums :confused3 and so i thought you guys might be a little easier on me :rotfl:

when would i need an external flash?

and why do lenses need/use hoods?

told you they were silly questions but hey, we all have to start somewhere right ;)

Lens hoods keep light from coming in at odd angles on the end of the lens. Say you are taking a pic of a person and its really sunny you can get light coming in from the right that is not anything related to your shot the hood keeps out the stray light you don't want.
Here is a link to lens flare and I think it breaks it all down pretty good

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/lens-flare.htm

External flash
Sometimes the flash on board is not strong enough so you look for a external other times you might not want to blind the person with a face full of flash so you go external.
Most external flashes now days have a bounce option and a zoom option the bounce lets you angle the flash up to reflect the light off the ceiling or wall to give you indirect lighting. The zoom is like a flashlight with an adjustable beam you can control how wide the flash area is so you get more light further out.

Off camera flash
A off camera flash is a flash not attached to the hot shoe on the top of your camera (except maybe by a cord)
You remember in the movies and the reporter snaps the shot and there was the flash bulb up and off to the side of the camera? You can get a mount that will move your external flash up and out of the way. There is also a cord you can get that will go from the hot shoe to the flash so you can hold the flash where you want it to get the best light effect. (and less red eye :thumbsup2 )

Ok lets see Oh yeah slave flashes!
You can get small flashes and adapters that go onto a regular flash that will make it into a slave then you can place these say to the left or right and when you fire the main flash the slaves are triggered also and gives a nice fill.
Colored gels can be put on slaves also to make certain areas light up with a different color!



Flash articles
Bounce
http://www.diyphotography.net/four_ways_to_bounce_a_flash
http://www.wikihow.com/Use-Bounce-Flash-to-Improve-Your-Photography
http://www.all-things-photography.com/bounced-flash.html

Off Camera Flash
http://www.shutterbug.net/techniques/lighting/1004sb_offcamera/
http://www.popphoto.com/lighting/3961/how-to-use-a-second-flash.html
http://kmp.bdimitrov.de/technology/offCameraFlash.html
http://www.shortcourses.com/guide/guide2-28.html

Slave Flash
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/Using-a-slave-flash-to-improve-your-photos
 
Thank you Dr Zero :thumbsup2

i knew you guys would give me an answer that i can actually understand :)
 
told you they were silly questions but hey, we all have to start somewhere right.
Yes, we do. There are no silly questions on this thread. I'm glad you felt comfortable asking and I hope others will feel free to do the same.

Let's see some pictures!!
 
Pea- sorry to change the subject from image stabilisation...

i am looking for a decent (but not too expensive as i am a beginner) macro lense for my nikon d40x and i seem to see "micro" in the title of a lot of the Nikon lenses. i dont know what this means, can anyone help me please :confused3 :confused3
 
Pea- sorry to change the subject from image stabilisation...

i am looking for a decent (but not too expensive as i am a beginner) macro lense for my nikon d40x and i seem to see "micro" in the title of a lot of the Nikon lenses. i dont know what this means, can anyone help me please :confused3 :confused3


Nikkor micro lenses have magnification ratios between 1:1 and 1:2.

Nikkor zoom lenses with a macro mode have magnifications smaller than 1:3

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resou.../Tokina_AT-X_M100AF/Tokina_AT-X_M100AF_2.html
 
Nikkor micro lenses have magnification ratios between 1:1 and 1:2.

Nikkor zoom lenses with a macro mode have magnifications smaller than 1:3

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resou.../Tokina_AT-X_M100AF/Tokina_AT-X_M100AF_2.html

Thanks for the info Dr :)

:listen:

OK, so i take my D40x to the world for the 1st time in 2 weeks...

Its all new to me and came with the 18:55 lense. i know that this lense won't suit everything while i'm there and so I would like to get another lense before i go (or while I am there as US prices are much cheaper than UK!) but i cant figure out whether i will get more use from a prime lense or a bigger zoom lense? if prime, which one? :confused3

I dont really take pics of people. as there is only me and DH i dont really get the opportunity. I mainly take shots of the things around me. I dont have a tripod yet so dont anticipate being able to get good night shots unless i lay off the Marguaritas :rotfl2:

i have been researching lenses for days now and just seem to be confusing myself with the pros and cons of both!

I know i must be driving you guys mad with lense questions so i am sorry in advance :worried: but I am hoping that some one can clear my mind once and for all :thumbsup2
 
Thanks for the info Dr :)

:listen:

OK, so i take my D40x to the world for the 1st time in 2 weeks...

Its all new to me and came with the 18:55 lense. i know that this lense won't suit everything while i'm there and so I would like to get another lense before i go (or while I am there as US prices are much cheaper than UK!) but i cant figure out whether i will get more use from a prime lense or a bigger zoom lense? if prime, which one? :confused3

I dont really take pics of people. as there is only me and DH i dont really get the opportunity. I mainly take shots of the things around me. I dont have a tripod yet so dont anticipate being able to get good night shots unless i lay off the Marguaritas :rotfl2:

i have been researching lenses for days now and just seem to be confusing myself with the pros and cons of both!

I know i must be driving you guys mad with lense questions so i am sorry in advance :worried: but I am hoping that some one can clear my mind once and for all :thumbsup2

I know EXACTLY what you are going through. I got my Pentax SLR last year before my September trip, and I had a lot of the same questions.

If I can find the thread where I posted them all, I will come back and post it here for you.

Basically (and you will get responses on this thread too), what the "pros" on these threads told me was that you will definitely use both at WDW.

I opted to get the close-up lens (after I returned from WDW) because my kit lens just wouldn't get me close enough to the subjects I wanted to focus on.

However, that said--the 50mm prime lens is going to be good for those inside and low-light situations you find yourself in a lot of times at Disney.

I think it comes down to a personal decision on your part. Do you think you will be using the prime more for the indoor/low-light situations (on top of it being a good, all-purpose, quick lens) or do you think you may need to zoom in more than your kit lens will allow.

For me, I found that while using my kit lens at Disney, it just didn't pull in enough for me, so I went for a 50-200mm zoom lens.

This year, I'm working towards my "low-light" lens! Good luck on your decision!
 
Wen-Tom,

Here is a thread that I started last year. I sound like a complete idiot in it, but go thru and read UK's and Groucho's posts about the 50mm vs. a tele. lens.

http://www.disboards.com/showthread.php?t=1510097

You will see they echo what I said above, but they include more information for you to ponder!

Good luck!
 
Dcanoli, thank you so much for this link, this is exactly the kind of thing i was looking for :)

if anyone else has an opinion please keep it coming.

i knew i could rely on you guys :thumbsup2
 
Dcanoli, thank you so much for this link, this is exactly the kind of thing i was looking for :)

if anyone else has an opinion please keep it coming.

i knew i could rely on you guys :thumbsup2

No problem! That is a very good and informative link.

I just went through it again myself last week!
 
The lens is a hard one cause it depends on your style of shooting.

To me it kinda like a bicycle you can get a mountain bike and I might get a beach cruiser cause that is what I would need to get where I want to go and be comfortable with it. Both are a means to a end.

I like the 70-210 zoom and would even like a little more sometimes I want to be able to get shots from the balcony or up to the bell tower or the face from across the room. I dont like staged pictures of people much I prefer to see them more natural and relaxed and I tell them that before hand just ignore me Im not here :rolleyes1 .

One thing about shooting pics in the summer time and air conditioning you room or car might have the AC on and set for 70 and its 101 outside so when you come out you need to take some time for your gear to adjust. Like when you get out the car and your glasses fog up same thing happens with the lens.:cool2:
 












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