Barcelona
Apart from Paris, Barcelona is the only city that I have been to before. Like Paris, I have not been too impressed with this in the past. Barcelona is one of only two places that I have visited where I felt decidedly uneasy, the second one being Nassau. However, this may be a question of perception as statistically Barcelona seems to be one of the safest cities in Europe. I have to say part of this may also have to do with the fact that the circumstances of my previous visits have been less than ideal. The first time round rather than having two full days in Barcelona before our cruise, we ended up with half a day after our last minute train journey across Europe and were utterly exhausted. Last time round, we had pretty much a full day, but it was raining very heavily for most of the day. Let’s hope that the third time will be a charm.
For all my dislike of Barcelona, the city has its redeeming features. As you probably have realized by now, I have a big passion for history and architecture. Barcelona has plenty of both. One thing that Barcelona stands out for is the wealth of architecture by Antoni Gaudi. I love his work and can’t wait to see more of this. We have actually decided to travel on an earlier train from Narbonne to Barcelona to maximize our time for sightseeing.
Saturday
Park Guell
The work on Park Guell started in 1900. This was the first partnership between the entrepreneur Eusebi Guell and Antoni Gaudi. Originally what is now Park Guell was supposed to be a state of the art housing development. Unfortunately this never got off the ground. Only two houses were ever built. When one of them was put on the market, there were no takers. Gaudi eventually bought this and lived in it with his family. This is now known as Gaudi House and is a museum. It is kind of ironic that he did not actually design the house.
Park Guell is now a park that is open to the public. Much of it can be visited for free. However, there is a small admission charge and timed access to the monumental zone with strictly limited numbers. Gaudi House may not have been designed by Gaudi, but a lot of the decorations and structures in the park have. Most of those structures are contained within the monumental zone, although some of them are outside this area. I can look forward to seeing the two porter’s lodge pavilions, the famous dragon staircase, an outdoor theatre, a structure that was intended as a market, a serpentine bench plus walls, statues and viaducts. I can’t wait to see all of this myself. Apart from all the Gaudi architecture, there are a number of other tempting features. Two of those have to do with the fact that the park is located on top of a mountain. One of the access routes from the Metro is via a series of escalators, which appeals to me as it is so quirky. The views over Barcelona from the park are also meant to be spectacular. The last feature is that they have wild parrots in the park. I hope to get to see some of those.
Gaudi House Museum
Although the Gaudi House museum is located in Park Guell, it is a separate entirety and requires separate admission. It is owned by the same trust that owns Sagrada Familia. Gaudi lived in this house from 1906 to 1925. It has been a museum since 1963 showcasing furniture and other objects designed by Gaudi. The house has 4 floors, but only two of them are open to the public.
Magic Fountain
This is something that we had planned to do on both of our previous visits, but it never happened. The first time we were too tired and were actually back in the hotel and in bed by the time the first show happened and on the second visit we decided against it as it was raining so heavily. The Magic Fountain is in the Montjuic neighbourhood in front of the Palau Nacional building. The fountains have been there since the 1920 Barcelona International Exposition, which is pretty amazing. Since 1980, music and a lightshow have also been incorporated. I love the Dubai Fountain so I am very excited to get to see this. The fountain performs to a variety of music. I particularly love this Disney medley.
Sunday
Sagrada Familia
Sagrada Familia is the only item on the to do list that I have seen previously. I was absolutely blown away by the beauty of this church. When I visited in September 2010, there was still heavy building equipment inside the church. As far as I understand, the inside is now completed, but the they are still building one of the facades and the towers. Sagrada Familia was consecrated as a church in November 2010. Construction on Sagrada Familia started in 1882 and it is anticipated that construction will be completed in 2026, which also marks the centenary of Gaudí's death. Still, even in its unfinished state, Sagrada Familia is utterly stunning combining breath-taking architecture with bright colours. This time round Graham will come with me. In 2010, I had not pre-booked my ticket and the line was once around the block. He was not keen to wait and headed for a nearby park instead. This time I have pre-booked timed tickets so we can go straight inside. I can’t wait to share this experience with Graham.
La Pedrera
Sticking with the Gaudi theme, our next stop will be La Pedrera. The official name of this building is Casa Milà, but it is more commonly known as ‘La Pedrera’ (the stone quarry). La Pedrera was built between 1906 and 1912 and has been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1984. La Pedrera was designed as an apartment building, but is now a museum and home to the headquarters of Catalunya-La Pedrera Foundation. There are 5 areas that can be visited.
The roof terrace is completely different in style from anything that was built during the same period of time. It features stairwells, ventilation towers and chimneys, some of which are covered with ceramic fragments.
The Espai Gaudí is the attic and houses an exhibition about the life and works of Gaudi featuring scale models, plans as well as various objects, photos and videos. I am sure that this will be worth a look, but what attracts me most to this is the architecture as the attic is made up of 270 arches of varying heights that support the roof terrace. This must look stunning.
The Pedreira Apartment is on the 4th floor and actually consists of two separate apartments. One has an audio visual exhibition about the history of Barcelona between 1909 and 1029, while the other has been recreated as the apartment of bourgeois family in the first third of the twentieth century, entirely re-fitted with the original elements that made up an apartment of La Pedrera (door handles, doorknobs, mouldings, doors and tiling). Apart from the attic, this is the part I am most excited about.
I have seen photos of the courtyards that are absolutely stunning. I cannot wait to see this for myself.
The last element that can be visited is the Exhibition Hall, which was the residence of the Mila family. This can only be visited if there is an exhibition in progress. There is an exhibition while we are there. There is a small extra charge for this and the exhibition itself does not interest me, but depending on how the day is going, we may pay this to get a look at the apartment.
Casa Batllo
This is another of Gaudi’s apartment buildings, but very different in style from La Pedrera. Casa Batllo was originally built by Gaudi in 1877, but then was extensively refurbished between 1904 and 1906. This is another Unesco World Heritage Site and has been listed as such in 2005. Nowadays Casa Batllo is used as an event space, but parts of it can be visited by the public. Areas that are open to the public include the Noble Floor, which was the original residence of the Batlló family , the attic, the roof terrace with its mythical chimneys, the stairwell, the entrance hall and main staircase. The building has an underwater theme, which does really appeal to me. I have the feeling that this will be my second favourite building that we will visit after Sagrada Familia.
Bari Gothic
The Gothic Quarter or Bari Gothic is the centre of Barcelona’s old town. Many of the buildings date from Medieval times with some of them dating as far back as the Roman settlement of Barcelona. The Bari Gothic consists of a maze of small streets that open up onto several squares. There are a number of interesting buildings and this area lends itself to a good wander. Hopefully we will get to do some people watching while having some tapas in the area. Apart from just strolling around the area, I really want to see the cathedral of Barcelona.
Barcelona Cathedral
Barcelona Cathedral is very different from Sagrada Familia. However, what they both have in common is the wow factor. Barcelona Cathedral was built from the 13th to 15th century. The roof features a number of gargoyles, featuring a wide range of animals, both domestic and mythical.It is ahall church, vaulted over five aisles, with the outer two being divided into chapels.The cathedral has a Gothic cloister where 13 white geese are kept.
Gaudí’s Pedrera: The Origins
After our day time visit earlier that day, we will return to La Pedrera in the evening for Gaudí’s Pedrera: The Origins. This is a night-time tour through the building featuring videomapping, multiple projections, special lighting and a soundtrack that will accompany it all. This looks amazing from the photos and I am sure this will be even more stunning in person. This also includes a glass of Cava, which I am not going to turn down.
Monday
For most of this trip, we will do our own thing. This is one of two occasions where we will actually have an organized tour booked. I suppose we could have visited both of those places on our own as well, but as they are both a way outside Barcelona and the fact that the excursion is pretty good value, it just seemed to be a smarter way of doing things.
Colonia Guell
Colonia Guell is one of the most pioneering purpose-built industrial villages of the 19th century is located in the town of Santa Coloma de Cervelló, 23 Km to the south-west of Barcelona. The project involved the creation of an industrial village with amenities which would improve the workers' quality of life: terraced houses, an athenaeum, theatre, school, shops, gardens and church. Some of the leading modernista architects of the day were involved in the construction of the village, resulting in highly beautiful spacious buildings. Antoni Gaudi was commissioned to design the church and his project consisted of an upper and lower nave, towers at the sides and a belfry measuring 40 m in height. In 1914, when the lower nave had been completed, the Güell family withdrew funding for the project. The church remains unfinished. The only part of this that has been finished is the crypt. It is widely believed that Gaudi tried the techniques that would later be used for Sagrada Familia at the church of Colonia Guell.
Montserrat
The mountain Montserrat with the Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria de Montserrat lies about 45 km northwest of Barcelona. Apart from the monastery, it is well known for its famous boy choir as well for the Black Madonna. The views are mean to be pretty spectacular and I am looking forward to seeing the basilica.
As part of the tour, we travel by coach to Colonia Guell where we will get a tour of the Gaudi crypt. We have a total of 90 minutes at Colonia Guell so I am hoping that we will have some free time to just wander around. Then it is back on the bus for the trip to Montserrat. We will take a ride on the rack railway and once we will get there, we will have an introductory tour of Montserrat. We will then have some free time before during the choir school. Then we will have some more free time before returning to Barcelona. This should be a fantastic tour.
Tuesday
Transbordador Aeri del Port
This part of our stay in Barcelona has a huge “IF” attached to it. This may or may not happen and my money is on that it will not. Transbordador Aeri del Port is a cable car that goes across the harbour from Barceloneta to Montjuic. The ride begins with a lift ride to the top of the cable car tower. The cable car cabins have room for 19 persons and travel at a height of between 70m and 90m above the port. As both of us are not too good with heights, this does not seem like a clever thing to do, but this is something that Graham would quite like to try. Originally we were going to do this on the Sunday, but then the day filled up and I did point out that it would be nice to see the Ovation of the Seas if we do decide to be brave. Our plan is to be at the port to check in at 12:00. By that time we should be able to board once we are done checking in. The idea is then to grab some lunch and take our carry ons to the cabin before heading out again. I am kind of hoping that the ship will be too tempting once we are on her and that Graham would rather explore this instead. I have the distinct feeling that we actually do make it on the cable car, I will end up cancelling our reservation for North Star as I cannot imagine us facing our fears twice on the same trip.
