Help with Christmas lights

minidreamin

Life on the beam
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
411
I posted this in another thread but I don't think it got much too many views. So I thought I'd start a new thread.

I'm going back to WDW in December and I want to take better photos of the castle at night than I did last year. Here's a sample from last year.

2402285156_8397e7d199_b.jpg


More can be seen on my Flickr page. Link.

What settings should I try to get a better picture this time? I'm using a Nikon D50.

Thanks!
 
What exactly is it you don't like about this shot?

I haven't taken any pictures in WDW yet, nor have I taken any of Christmas lights since I just got my D60 two weeks ago...but there is one piece of information that I have gotten from everyone on this board that has stuck...TRIPOD TRIPOD TRIPOD. For situations like this, it seems pretty important to either A. have a hand so steady it is almost un-natural or B. bring along a tripod, set your camera down on something for stability to avoid any blurring.
 
Like the above poster wrote... a tripod is what's going to make the difference between a very sharp night photo and one that's a little (or a lot) blurry. You'll also need a remote shutter release, or to use the 2-second timer (to prevent camera shake from pressing the shutter button.) You can also try to stabilize the camera on a solid surface, or use a beanbag or really, anything that will hold the camera steady, and you will generally get better results than handholding.

Really, the important thing is to get enough light into the camera for a proper exposure. Using a tripod allows you to use a let more light in by holding the shutter open longer.

Checking your flicker site, that photo (or one just like it) was taken at ISO 800, F5, and 5/8th of a second. That's an awfully long time to handhold the camera. I'm guessing that you were using the kit 18-55mm lens, so no image stabilization, either. If you want to get a sharp photo without using a tripod, you either have to use a larger aperture (the opening in the lens) or make your camera more sensitive to light (the ISO).

Your ISO is 800, which is already fairly high. You can go up to 1600 but you'll find the picture starting to get a little "noisy". This bothers some people more than others, but your camera should be capable of pretty decent ISO 1600 shots.

Your aperture, on the other hand, is fairly small. This is mostly likely due to the lens - I'm pretty sure the camera was automatically trying to get the biggest opening it could, but kit lenses are just not designed for low-light work. For comparison, an F2.8 lens (if my math is right) is 1.5 stops brighter than your lens at F5, and an F1.4 lens is 3.5 stops brighter. Each stop is double or half as much light as the next stop. A faster lens will allow a much faster shutter speed, minimizing the chances of blurriness due to hand shake.

An image stabilized lens would help, too - but ultimately, a tripod is a big key.
 
Something else that might help is to change your camera exposure point from an average of several points to one point (spot). Like the photo in the first post many night shots have a lot of black in the background so the average might not be the best exposure.
 

I was trying to find the remote shutter release per your tip. I found one but not sure if it can be used with my DH's Nikon D40. I found MC-D1 while searching but can't verify that it would work the the D40. Also, I wanted to buy it a a well known store but none of them seem to sell it. Help!
 
I was trying to find the remote shutter release per your tip. I found one but not sure if it can be used with my DH's Nikon D40. I found MC-D1 while searching but can't verify that it would work the the D40. Also, I wanted to buy it a a well known store but none of them seem to sell it. Help!

A very quick Google search tells me that the remote shutter release for the D40 is the ML-L3 - $14.30 at Amazon.com

http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-Wireless-Control-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00007EDZG
 












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