*Truck and Towing thread........ask your questions here.*

[jeffrey1966]

Question about weight distribution/sway control.

I upgraded TT from Jayco x23f to Jayco 28bhbe recently. I never used WD/SC in the past but really feeling the need for it now.
I have been looking at the Equalizer 10k hitch. Everywhere I look it seems to be around $600. I see other brands in the$350 range. Any recommendations whether the Equalizer is the one to get or keep checking out other brands would be appreciated.

 

[Teamubr]

Question about weight distribution/sway control.
I have been looking at the Equalizer 10k hitch. Everywhere I look it seems to be around $600. I see other brands in the$350 range. Any recommendations whether the Equalizer is the one to get or keep checking out other brands would be appreciated.

Equalizer is a well known brand that many use. When I had a TT, I got a used W/D hitch from the dealer. Not sure of the brand (if it even had one), but it worked great. The key is to get the correct strength spring bars (at least rated for your hitch weight). Going over some on strength (1,000 lb bars for 750 lb hitch weight) is OK since most WD hitches allow a way to lighten the pull from the bars, but no way to make them stronger than rated. The WD hitch I had was very similar to the one in the pic. It was a "trunion" type (vs round bar) and used a chain and "snap up" bracket to adjust the amount of load. The less links used, the stronger the weight transfer.



Here is the link to the one in the pic from e-trailer. It has 600 lb bars and runs $322. E-trailer also has WD/sway control combos starting around $300.

This one is a round bar style with integrated sway control. It is $363 on e-trailer. It also has 600 lb bars. It uses a different bracket type to set the load and isn't as quickly adjustable as the chain link type, but once it is set, you don't have to remember how many links to use each time.


The key isn't necessarily the brand or how much you pay, it is getting the correct weight bars and setting it up correctly. There are a bunch of good YouTube videos on how to set them up and adjust them.

j

 

[sirenia88]

2012 Gmc sierra, crew cab, tow package. Ipl post up the axel stuff tomorow, i dont get out of work untill then and i took my jeep to work. Mid size engine and better gearing for the towing. Tow capacity is 8k or higher. View attachment 438862

I towed with P Metric tires a few times. I could not understand why my ride was total trash when towing. I asked on a few forums about the problem. A number of people said get air bags. I felt that was not a solution. Turned out, the truck I had for towing duty had P265/70R17. I had LT265/70/R17 installed. Ride and towing felt 100% different. It made the drive down to our first Disney camping trip a much different experience. The stiffer side walls with a planted feel made the trip more enjoyable. YMMV Good luck with your new ride.

 

[Sjm9911]

On the wdh, i have the big equalizer on mine, it came with the camper. For me i feel its oversized. Additionally, it will creak and moan during trurns as its metal on metal. It woks, well. And it will probably outlast a nuclear blast its so heavy. Not sure if the chain ones make less noise, but they cant make more.

 

[tiggerdad]

My TT previously had the heavier WD hitch from dealer, and it worked very well. Not sure on price as it was included with the TT. Key to it is having it adjusted properly. The receiver hitch itself is adjustable and the instructions will tell you specifically how to set it up based on the height of of the TT hitch when level, and the height of the receiver when not hooked to camper. It is very important that you get this part setup right in the beginning in order to get the most out of the hitch. Mine had the chains on it. Key to hooking chains up and unhooking is take the hitch after you connect it to the truck and use the jack to let it WAY up. then set the chains, and let it back down. This makes it much easier.

The chain DH made noise too as you turned and moved. A lot of that too is the sway control bar which I also strongly recommend adding as well.

 

[Teamubr]

The receiver hitch itself is adjustable. It is very important that you get this part setup right in the beginning.

THIS ^^^^

Key to hooking chains up and unhooking is take the hitch after you connect it to the truck and use the jack to let it WAY up. then set the chains, and let it back down. This makes it much easier.

And definitely THIS ^^^. It took me quite a few times to figure this out. Without raising the hitch, I had to use a big bar to pop the snapup into place. Raising the hitch, I could do it with one hand.

My chain type didn't make any noise. The sway control makes LOTS of noise. Mine squealed loudly when turning. Backing into a site, you'd think I was running over a herd of cats. I would usually loosen my sway control before backing so everyone didn't think I was strangling something.

j

 

[mickeyfan0805]

THIS ^^^^


And definitely THIS ^^^. It took me quite a few times to figure this out. Without raising the hitch, I had to use a big bar to pop the snapup into place. Raising the hitch, I could do it with one hand.

I don't have chains, but the bars onto the L-brackets of an Equal-i-zer are the same. It came with a little leverage bar meant to pry the bars onto the brackets - it's never seen the light of day. Raise the jack, swing the bar on with my pinky (not really - just dramatizing the point), and then lower. Especially with a power jack, this is a no-brainer!

 

[tiggerdad]

My chain type didn't make any noise. The sway control makes LOTS of noise. Mine squealed loudly when turning. Backing into a site, you'd think I was running over a herd of cats. I would usually loosen my sway control before backing so everyone didn't think I was strangling something.

I always took mine off as soon as I got to a campground when I was out at the check-in. I did this mainly for everyone else it could be so loud.

 

[jeffrey1966]

Equalizer is a well known brand that many use. When I had a TT, I got a used W/D hitch from the dealer. Not sure of the brand (if it even had one), but it worked great. The key is to get the correct strength spring bars (at least rated for your hitch weight). Going over some on strength (1,000 lb bars for 750 lb hitch weight) is OK since most WD hitches allow a way to lighten the pull from the bars, but no way to make them stronger than rated. The WD hitch I had was very similar to the one in the pic. It was a "trunion" type (vs round bar) and used a chain and "snap up" bracket to adjust the amount of load. The less links used, the stronger the weight transfer.

View attachment 438915

Here is the link to the one in the pic from e-trailer. It has 600 lb bars and runs $322. E-trailer also has WD/sway control combos starting around $300.

This one is a round bar style with integrated sway control. It is $363 on e-trailer. It also has 600 lb bars. It uses a different bracket type to set the load and isn't as quickly adjustable as the chain link type, but once it is set, you don't have to remember how many links to use each time.
View attachment 438916

The key isn't necessarily the brand or how much you pay, it is getting the correct weight bars and setting it up correctly. There are a bunch of good YouTube videos on how to set them up and adjust them.

j

Thanks very much for this.

 

[SouthAlabama5er]

All Good points on sway control and equalizer hitches. I pass campers all the time with the set up not adjusted right, their usually doing about 55 on the interstate and once I pass them I look in the mirror and their usually about half way on the shoulder probably stressed out and cussing me
Having the correct hitch set up and have the camper ride level while hitched up is key to a not so stressful drive. Now brake checks and bad drivers texting not so much..

I'm about to bite the bullet and put 6 new tires on the camper some time over the winter. Part of my getting ready for the 2020 meet. The TH still has the 5 year old Westlakes on it, they have done pretty good considering all the negative reviews and blow out pictures on several TV forums but after the countless trips back and forth to the dealer in Louisiana the tires have been about the only thing I haven't had a problem with. The guy I buy the tires for the Peterbilt from made me a pretty decent deal on some G614 Goodyears..

Also the DW and I purchased a dehumidifier for the camper yesterday from Lowe's, set it up last night on the countertop and ran the drain in to the sink. Zip ties a piece of wire mesh around the sewer drain to keep most bugs and squirrels @tiggerdad out and barely cracked open the grey water tank. So set it and forget it right?!

Also the DW noticed that one of the frameless windows is leaking, first time having this problem but with my South Alabama way of thinking- clear flex seal. I'm at the point now with this camper if I cant fix it right I'll just flex seal it up and go on about my day.

As far as the truck my plans are to have a set of Talladega Fiberglass full fenders by this time next year. The truck tires are bad about grabbing rocks so I wanna prevent any more cracked Fiberglass.

 

[Teamubr]

I'm about to bite the bullet and put 6 new tires on the camper some time over the winter. Part of my getting ready for the 2020 meet. The guy I buy the tires for the Peterbilt from made me a pretty decent deal on some G614 Goodyears..

As far as the truck my plans are to have a set of Talladega Fiberglass full fenders by this time next year. The truck tires are bad about grabbing rocks so I wanna prevent any more cracked Fiberglass.

Randy,

Check out Sailun tires. Same load as the G614, but half the price. I put them on my 5er last year after one of the 2 1/2 year old "factory" tires blew on the way back from GSP. They have been amazing. They are 2 load ranges higher E to G (check your rims to make sure they are rated for the higher PSI). The Sailuns tow incredible. Handling is much better. I also am getting better mpg. The tires don't squat, even at the same psi (80) and they "roll" so much easier. I didn't realize how much the old tires felt like I was always pulling through sand. These Sailuns just roll well. Another interesting thing is the trailer doesn't bounce when parked like it used to. Even with the JT Strong Arms and the rear jacks down solid, the trailer would still have a pretty good shake and bounce when someone was walking around. Not anymore.

Support from the manufacturer was also great. I initially blew them up to the max, 110psi, but the ride was rock hard and it felt like I was going to break things. I contacted the company and he sent a psi/weight chart, similar to what we had for race tires. With the 3,000 lbs per tire I have, the sheet said 75-80 psi. The tires are also rated to 80mph. Since you tow like I do, that is an advantage.


Those fenders should keep the rocks from causing any more issues AND they will look cool too.

j

<<Edit>>
I just checked on the price for a Sailun S637 ST235/85R-16 G tire. $167.97. Not sure what you can get the Goodyear for. This was through SimpleTire. They were shipped to my local tire shop and I paid another $20/tire to have them mounted/balanced.

 

[PaHunter]

All Good points on sway control and equalizer hitches. I pass campers all the time with the set up not adjusted right, their usually doing about 55 on the interstate and once I pass them I look in the mirror and their usually about half way on the shoulder probably stressed out and cussing me
Having the correct hitch set up and have the camper ride level while hitched up is key to a not so stressful drive. Now brake checks and bad drivers texting not so much..

I'm about to bite the bullet and put 6 new tires on the camper some time over the winter. Part of my getting ready for the 2020 meet. The TH still has the 5 year old Westlakes on it, they have done pretty good considering all the negative reviews and blow out pictures on several TV forums but after the countless trips back and forth to the dealer in Louisiana the tires have been about the only thing I haven't had a problem with. The guy I buy the tires for the Peterbilt from made me a pretty decent deal on some G614 Goodyears..

Also the DW and I purchased a dehumidifier for the camper yesterday from Lowe's, set it up last night on the countertop and ran the drain in to the sink. Zip ties a piece of wire mesh around the sewer drain to keep most bugs and squirrels @tiggerdad out and barely cracked open the grey water tank. So set it and forget it right?!

Also the DW noticed that one of the frameless windows is leaking, first time having this problem but with my South Alabama way of thinking- clear flex seal. I'm at the point now with this camper if I cant fix it right I'll just flex seal it up and go on about my day.

As far as the truck my plans are to have a set of Talladega Fiberglass full fenders by this time next year. The truck tires are bad about grabbing rocks so I wanna prevent any more cracked Fiberglass.

We don't need a dehumidifier it is not that bad. I have a Davis Air heater that we use in our trailer during winter storage. Designed to keep boats mold free, and it does up to 1000 sq ft. Also have one for the truck for the time it sits.

 

[Sjm9911]

Dont make me look for dehumidifiers and stuff yet, i barly camped im my TT! I tought some cab fresh would do........

 

[tiggerdad]

I always keep dehumidifier in mine when in storage. You'd be amazed how the moisture can be in them.

 

[jbrostek]

We don't need a dehumidifier it is not that bad. I have a Davis Air heater that we use in our trailer during winter storage. Designed to keep boats mold free, and it does up to 1000 sq ft. Also have one for the truck for the time it sits.

I will need to look into one of them. I noticed this past winter was the first time I saw some signs of humidity.

 

[mickeyfan0805]

I will need to look into one of them. I noticed this past winter was the first time I saw some signs of humidity.

I've never had much sign of humidity in the off-season, but I've used Damp Rid buckets just in case. Seems to do the trick.

 

[PaHunter]

I will need to look into one of them. I noticed this past winter was the first time I saw some signs of humidity.

If you have power nearby and can run just an extension cord to power the trailer, the Davis units are really nice, they sit on a surface and have a tiny heating element. Uses the same power as having a light bulb on. And they are not too expensive, I think we paid around 50 bucks for each unit.

 

[jbrostek]

I looked them up, I think I would do two 500 units rather then a single 1000sq ft just to leave one in the BR and one in the main living. I am usually powered all winter as well. I have not put a full 50A plug in yet, but we are going to at least put a 30A in at this new place.

 

[PaHunter]

I looked them up, I think I would do two 500 units rather then a single 1000sq ft just to leave one in the BR and one in the main living. I am usually powered all winter as well. I have not put a full 50A plug in yet, but we are going to at least put a 30A in at this new place.

I run our off of a 15 amp outlet for the air dryer. I have a 50 amp outside the garage for when we load.

 

[jbrostek]

I am running on a 15A right now. I need to get a new cord though as its showing its age. I liked having the 50A at the old house, and depending on where I put the plug at the new place will probably dictate if I use a 50 or a 30.