Possibly Montreal at Christmas Time

tcherjen

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May 6, 2012
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We are thinking about spending Christmas in Montreal. We are a family of 5. With two teens and a 7 year old. Where would be a good place to stay? This will be our first visit out of the US and we are looking forward to it. Thanks for all suggestions. :goodvibes
 
We are thinking about spending Christmas in Montreal. We are a family of 5. With two teens and a 7 year old. Where would be a good place to stay? This will be our first visit out of the US and we are looking forward to it. Thanks for all suggestions. :goodvibes

I'm a Montreal local so I don't have much experience with hotels here but if you have other questions don't hesitate! And if you can I would highly suggest a stay in Quebec city. There's an ice hotel you can visit for a day or stay for a night and no city beats QC city for a true magical stay in winter. Especially if your hotel is within the walls. It's not a UNESCO protected city for nothing! I grew up in QC city before moving to Mtl for university. :)
 
And while you're in Mtl you absolutely have to visit the biodôme. The new planetarium is also next door.
 
I'm a Montreal local so I don't have much experience with hotels here but if you have other questions don't hesitate! And if you can I would highly suggest a stay in Quebec city. There's an ice hotel you can visit for a day or stay for a night and no city beats QC city for a true magical stay in winter. Especially if your hotel is within the walls. It's not a UNESCO protected city for nothing! I grew up in QC city before moving to Mtl for university. :)

Thank you! I will be posting over here asking questions. My youngest has been enthralled with all things French for some time. Thought it would be great for her to hear it spoken and to see it in print somewhere. I have looked at QC too and it is amazing. I love the whole feel of Canada. From what I have seen it is beautiful. It will be our first time in snow too. I have lived in Florida and it snowed once here in 89. I will have to ask ya'll how to dress for such cold. ;)
 

What a nice idea! Are you going to arrive a few days before Christmas? If so, wander up rue Ste. Catherine and have a look at the Ogilvy's Christmas window. It is full of old style little animated figurines with a Christmas theme. (They used to have several windows, but there is only one now). Go in, check out the shopping. If you arrive early enough you will see and hear the bagpiper walk through. You can grab a snack at their very fashionable cafeteria too.
 
What a nice idea! Are you going to arrive a few days before Christmas? If so, wander up rue Ste. Catherine and have a look at the Ogilvy's Christmas window. It is full of old style little animated figurines with a Christmas theme. (They used to have several windows, but there is only one now). Go in, check out the shopping. If you arrive early enough you will see and hear the bagpiper walk through. You can grab a snack at their very fashionable cafeteria too.

Thank you! We will be sure to check out the window display. :)
 
Montreal is a great town to play tourist. But you could be in for some serious winter weather. I would suggest finding a hotel that's within a block or two of a metro station (subway), that way if you want to explore the city, you don't have to drive in the mess.

When there isn't several feet of snow on the ground, Montreal is a very walkable, friendly city.
  • Mont Royal is one of the more unique urban parks in the world, with a great view of the city.
  • Vieux Montreal (Old Montreal) is a neighbourhood of old stone buildings, full of restaurants and upscale shopping.
  • Rue St-Denis is a restaurant and culture extravaganza. It makes Epcot Food and Wine Festival look quaint.
  • Rue St-Catherine is a collection of every type sub-culture you could imagine. Most are friendly, but many are extremely odd.

Just be prepared for crazy driving and often incomprehensible signage. "Go with the flow" means driving almost double the speed limit on freeways. Seriously, locals drive 120 km/h or 75 mph through tunnels and over bridges marked 70 km/h or 45 mph. When you get to quiet inner city streets, there are no right turns on red lights. (It's like Montreal wants to be like Manhattan.)
 
Just thought I would add, if you are there from Chrismas to NYE, make sure you check the holiday hours for anything you want to visit before setting out.
 
Montreal is a great town to play tourist. But you could be in for some serious winter weather. I would suggest finding a hotel that's within a block or two of a metro station (subway), that way if you want to explore the city, you don't have to drive in the mess.

When there isn't several feet of snow on the ground, Montreal is a very walkable, friendly city.
  • Mont Royal is one of the more unique urban parks in the world, with a great view of the city.
  • Vieux Montreal (Old Montreal) is a neighbourhood of old stone buildings, full of restaurants and upscale shopping.
  • Rue St-Denis is a restaurant and culture extravaganza. It makes Epcot Food and Wine Festival look quaint.
  • Rue St-Catherine is a collection of every type sub-culture you could imagine. Most are friendly, but many are extremely odd.

Just be prepared for crazy driving and often incomprehensible signage. "Go with the flow" means driving almost double the speed limit on freeways. Seriously, locals drive 120 km/h or 75 mph through tunnels and over bridges marked 70 km/h or 45 mph. When you get to quiet inner city streets, there are no right turns on red lights. (It's like Montreal wants to be like Manhattan.)

We won't be driving and we will definitely try Rue St-Catherine.
 
For accomodations, try renting an apartment/house...lots of people leave town for the holidays and subsidize their own vacations by renting out their places. It's great to have the extra space and privacy when you're out of town, and it is usually about the same price as a decent hotel room.

If you don't find anything, or just want to know more about which areas would be good, you can PM me. I also have friends who will be out of town at that time and usually rent their place out.
 
My daughter and I went to Quebec City for 3 days a couple of weeks before Christmas last year and it was magical. We did a horse and carriage ride, we got at least 6 inches of snow while we were there and in the downtown they had little Christmas markets set up. We lucked out on a great rate at the Chateau Frontenac since it was during the week. If you wanted to split your stay, check out VIA rail for service between Montreal and Quebec City.
 
Okay here my suggestions (my previous answers were written on my iphone or ipad so not conductive for a lot of explanations/suggestions).

Transportation:
From the airport, the taxi fare for downtown is a fixed rate (approx. 35$). There’s an express bus too but at 8$ per person I would take the taxi for a family. If you leave the airport during rush hour you might be stuck in traffic. Even more true if it’s snowing. But since it’s a fixed rate, it’s not more expensive. The rest of the time, I would walk and take the metro/bus system. You can buy a day, weekend or weekly pass. Here’s the link to the STM (city bus and metro): http://www.stm.info/en You can also easily walk all over downtown, either outside or in the underground city (mostly for shopping). The city is really safe and unlike many American cities, Montreal downtown area (and surrounding areas) is very safe and alive on evening. It’s were most people go out, where the good restaurants and clubs are. Even in the more shady streets/areas I would walk, especially if I’m not alone.

Lodging:
I cannot recommend you a specific hotel as I never stayed in a hotel in Mtl before but check websites like Trip Advisor and you can always ask me if the area is nice once you have some candidates. I would personally stay between St-Denis and Guy streets (extended downtown) south of the mountain (Mt-Royal). In that area you have everything: small inns, value chains like Choice hotels, moderates and deluxe hotels (including Ritz Carlton, Loews Vogue, Queen Elizabeth II, etc.). Try to be close to a metro station if you don’t rent a car.

Dining:
You will find restaurants from around the world here. From a libanese fast food (yum!) to the high end steak house (Queue de Cheval). Most restaurants are authentic. I work downtown (west) and my favourites are Étoile des Indes (Ste-Catherine/St-Mathieu) for indian, Juliette et Chocolat (for chocolate goodies and crêpes) and Wieinstein and Gavino (Crescent) for fun atmosphere but loud. The main streets for restaurants are St-Denis, St-Laurent (north of Sherbrooke), Ste-Catherine, Crescent and most of old Mtl and old port. For local cuisine you have the fast food specialties and high end restaurants that need to be reserved weeks in advance like Pieds de Cochon or Toque!. On the fast food front you have to try poutine but beware that it’s not good everywhere. NEVER eat poutine at McDonald’s, Harvey’s and co. The best poutine IMO is in QC city but in Montreal I like the poutine from La Belle Province (multiple locations) and Valentine (you can find one in the Cours Mont-Royal food court). A good poutine needs cheese curds (not grated cheese or cubes), thick and oily fries and good gravy. Simple but hard to find the right combination. I usually take my poutine with a side of mustard/coleslaw hot dog. You also have to try what we’re renowned for, smoked meat and cheesecake. You can usually find both at the same delis. Finally, don’t leave Montreal without eating a proper bagel from St-Viateur bagel shop! Since you will visit during the holidays, it might be difficult to find restaurants open after 5pm on Dec 24th, on Dec 25th and on January 1st. I know some friends who in the past would go out on Dec 25 to eat in Chinatown and then go for a movie (some of the only places open that day). There are a few grocery stores in the downtown area so you could make some purchases before they close for Christmas.

Activities:
There’s lot to do in Mtl. Many museums, parks and activities. During the holidays the first thing that comes to my mind is the ballet show The Nutcracker at Place-des-Arts. I also LOVE the biodôme and the planetarium is just next door. You absolutely have to go for a walk on Mont-Royal and if there’s enough snow the sliding and skating might be in operation (you can rent everything you need). If you want to attend a Christmas mess or service there’s many churches (mostly catholic and Anglican) in the downtown area. If you want to meet Santa, the real one (the one from the parade) is close to the food court of Complexe Desjardins. He’s so popular that you need to get the equivalent to a FP- to meet him. You can also meet him in the other malls but they’re not as nice/real. And like I suggested above, if you can go to Qc city during that time of year, do it! There’s a bus leaving every hour (takes about 2h30) or you can buy tickets on the Via Rail train (takes about 3h).

Weather:
Usually December is not a very cold month. Yes it’s cold if you compare to Florida but we have much colder at the end of January, early February. The temperature will rarely go below -10C (14F) and we often had mild early January with rain (yuck). For snow, we had big snowstorms during the last two holiday seasons but it’s not a guarantee. In fact, Montreal had some grey Christmas in the past. Rare but possible (unlike Qc city that ALWAYS have a white Christmas). If a snowstorm hits the city the sidewalk are a little difficult to navigate in the first 24-36h but downtown is a priority for the city so snow is removed quickly. If you don’t already own a snow jacket, I wouldn’t buy one to visit unless you plan on going skiing. You can survive with a fleece jacket over a windbreaker. The trick will be to have a scarf, gloves or mittens and a warm hat like a tuque. A nice store to buy all those winter accessories is Simons on Ste-Catherine. Boots are a plus but not mandatory either. Just if you wear trekking shoes/boots with wool socks you will be fine (no cotton socks in winter or you will freeze). Also, if you plan on walking a lot, long johns (leggings under pants for women) are a must!

French:
Montreal is mostly a bilingual city (not officially). Quebec is not. The province ONLY official language is French but you can get most services in both languages, especially in touristic areas. It’s possible that some people working the metro booths, bus drivers or other service workers don’t understand everything in English and don’t speak the language. But usually if you stay downtown that shouldn’t much of an issue. In fact, if you try to speak French most will switch to English even if their English is worse than your French. Don’t be offended please, they just want to be friendly and it’s kind of an automatism. The rule in Mtl is that east of St-Laurent street is mostly French and west is mostly English.

Bon séjour chez nous!
 
Okay here my suggestions (my previous answers were written on my iphone or ipad so not conductive for a lot of explanations/suggestions).

Transportation:
From the airport, the taxi fare for downtown is a fixed rate (approx. 35$). There’s an express bus too but at 8$ per person I would take the taxi for a family. If you leave the airport during rush hour you might be stuck in traffic. Even more true if it’s snowing. But since it’s a fixed rate, it’s not more expensive. The rest of the time, I would walk and take the metro/bus system. You can buy a day, weekend or weekly pass. Here’s the link to the STM (city bus and metro): http://www.stm.info/en You can also easily walk all over downtown, either outside or in the underground city (mostly for shopping). The city is really safe and unlike many American cities, Montreal downtown area (and surrounding areas) is very safe and alive on evening. It’s were most people go out, where the good restaurants and clubs are. Even in the more shady streets/areas I would walk, especially if I’m not alone.

Lodging:
I cannot recommend you a specific hotel as I never stayed in a hotel in Mtl before but check websites like Trip Advisor and you can always ask me if the area is nice once you have some candidates. I would personally stay between St-Denis and Guy streets (extended downtown) south of the mountain (Mt-Royal). In that area you have everything: small inns, value chains like Choice hotels, moderates and deluxe hotels (including Ritz Carlton, Loews Vogue, Queen Elizabeth II, etc.). Try to be close to a metro station if you don’t rent a car.

Dining:
You will find restaurants from around the world here. From a libanese fast food (yum!) to the high end steak house (Queue de Cheval). Most restaurants are authentic. I work downtown (west) and my favourites are Étoile des Indes (Ste-Catherine/St-Mathieu) for indian, Juliette et Chocolat (for chocolate goodies and crêpes) and Wieinstein and Gavino (Crescent) for fun atmosphere but loud. The main streets for restaurants are St-Denis, St-Laurent (north of Sherbrooke), Ste-Catherine, Crescent and most of old Mtl and old port. For local cuisine you have the fast food specialties and high end restaurants that need to be reserved weeks in advance like Pieds de Cochon or Toque!. On the fast food front you have to try poutine but beware that it’s not good everywhere. NEVER eat poutine at McDonald’s, Harvey’s and co. The best poutine IMO is in QC city but in Montreal I like the poutine from La Belle Province (multiple locations) and Valentine (you can find one in the Cours Mont-Royal food court). A good poutine needs cheese curds (not grated cheese or cubes), thick and oily fries and good gravy. Simple but hard to find the right combination. I usually take my poutine with a side of mustard/coleslaw hot dog. You also have to try what we’re renowned for, smoked meat and cheesecake. You can usually find both at the same delis. Finally, don’t leave Montreal without eating a proper bagel from St-Viateur bagel shop! Since you will visit during the holidays, it might be difficult to find restaurants open after 5pm on Dec 24th, on Dec 25th and on January 1st. I know some friends who in the past would go out on Dec 25 to eat in Chinatown and then go for a movie (some of the only places open that day). There are a few grocery stores in the downtown area so you could make some purchases before they close for Christmas.

Activities:
There’s lot to do in Mtl. Many museums, parks and activities. During the holidays the first thing that comes to my mind is the ballet show The Nutcracker at Place-des-Arts. I also LOVE the biodôme and the planetarium is just next door. You absolutely have to go for a walk on Mont-Royal and if there’s enough snow the sliding and skating might be in operation (you can rent everything you need). If you want to attend a Christmas mess or service there’s many churches (mostly catholic and Anglican) in the downtown area. If you want to meet Santa, the real one (the one from the parade) is close to the food court of Complexe Desjardins. He’s so popular that you need to get the equivalent to a FP- to meet him. You can also meet him in the other malls but they’re not as nice/real. And like I suggested above, if you can go to Qc city during that time of year, do it! There’s a bus leaving every hour (takes about 2h30) or you can buy tickets on the Via Rail train (takes about 3h).

Weather:
Usually December is not a very cold month. Yes it’s cold if you compare to Florida but we have much colder at the end of January, early February. The temperature will rarely go below -10C (14F) and we often had mild early January with rain (yuck). For snow, we had big snowstorms during the last two holiday seasons but it’s not a guarantee. In fact, Montreal had some grey Christmas in the past. Rare but possible (unlike Qc city that ALWAYS have a white Christmas). If a snowstorm hits the city the sidewalk are a little difficult to navigate in the first 24-36h but downtown is a priority for the city so snow is removed quickly. If you don’t already own a snow jacket, I wouldn’t buy one to visit unless you plan on going skiing. You can survive with a fleece jacket over a windbreaker. The trick will be to have a scarf, gloves or mittens and a warm hat like a tuque. A nice store to buy all those winter accessories is Simons on Ste-Catherine. Boots are a plus but not mandatory either. Just if you wear trekking shoes/boots with wool socks you will be fine (no cotton socks in winter or you will freeze). Also, if you plan on walking a lot, long johns (leggings under pants for women) are a must!

French:
Montreal is mostly a bilingual city (not officially). Quebec is not. The province ONLY official language is French but you can get most services in both languages, especially in touristic areas. It’s possible that some people working the metro booths, bus drivers or other service workers don’t understand everything in English and don’t speak the language. But usually if you stay downtown that shouldn’t much of an issue. In fact, if you try to speak French most will switch to English even if their English is worse than your French. Don’t be offended please, they just want to be friendly and it’s kind of an automatism. The rule in Mtl is that east of St-Laurent street is mostly French and west is mostly English.

Bon séjour chez nous!

Thank you so much for all the information. I have looked at some hotels online and will be researching them. Trip advisor is awesome. I have read about Poutine and would love to try it. I do however have severe allergies to penicillian or mold type so I have to be careful with aged cheeses. We are all very excited about going. Thank you again for all your help. :goodvibes
 
Thank you so much for all the information. I have looked at some hotels online and will be researching them. Trip advisor is awesome. I have read about Poutine and would love to try it. I do however have severe allergies to penicillian or mold type so I have to be careful with aged cheeses. We are all very excited about going. Thank you again for all your help. :goodvibes

Well unless it is a "fromage bleu" poutine you will be just fine. Poutine is made with fresh cheddar cheese curds, these are generally hours old; never more that a couple of days(and two day old curds would be considered "merde" by the purists). Aging of curd is measured in hours not days, and the younger (and squeakier) the better!

IMO the curd is probably the third most important ingredient. The chips have to be fresh and cut from real potatoes, but most important is the gravy that adds the all important flavor.
 
Well unless it is a "fromage bleu" poutine you will be just fine. Poutine is made with fresh cheddar cheese curds, these are generally hours old; never more that a couple of days(and two day old curds would be considered "merde" by the purists). Aging of curd is measured in hours not days, and the younger (and squeakier) the better!

IMO the curd is probably the third most important ingredient. The chips have to be fresh and cut from real potatoes, but most important is the gravy that adds the all important flavor.

I will most definitely try it!!!!:thumbsup2
 















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