How to shoot fireworks

I never had good luck using Sports mode on my S3 (though I know some do). On pages 87 of the S3 thread here, I posted some low light WDW shots I got using Program mode, boosting the ISO, and holding very still. (And had I known then what I know now about aperture and shutter control, they might have been better.)
 
also there is a fireworks scene setting

I forgot to mention, turn off the flash.
I don't have the S5, but I used to have the S2 years ago. I could be wrong, but I don't think the S2 had a fireworks mode; it had night mode. I've heard people complain that night mode doesn't work well for fireworks, and that's because night mode is meant to give importance to a foreground subject. In night mode, the camera basically uses the flash to expose a subject in the foreground, then after the flash goes off, the shutter remains open for just a little while longer so that the ambient light in the background can expose a little. In other words, night mode uses flash, then "drags the shutter".
 
I don't come by these boards often and I just came across these "how to" threads started by Mark. What a great idea.
If you are still reading these threads, thank you Mark for providing a great service to those of us trying to learn.

Here is a shot of Wishes that I took last year.
Wishes1.jpg


I have only shot Wishes this one time with my DSLR and I am by no means an expert but I can explain the gory details of
how I went about shooting. I apologize in advance if this is too much detail.


1. Location
First of all I staked out a spot well in advance. I was there on a night where Spectro preceded Wishes so I was looking for a
spot on Main street long before Wishes started. Spectro started at 8PM and Wishes at 9PM and I had a spot at about 1 hour and
15 min before Spectro. I chose a spot on the right hand side of Main Street and planted myself right next to a trashcan (which
I planned to use for Wishes but not Spectro). The one unavoidable problem is that you never know who is going to come in front of
you when the show starts and how much blocking of the view will be done. Another issue with a trashcan is that people use it for
trash (the nerve). So it will get jostled sometimes and when you are shooting long exposures it means a trashed picture from the trash can.
Nothing you can do about that but realize that it will happen and don't get frustrated.

2. Set up
After Spectro finished (at about 8:30PM) I set up my gorillapod with ballhead and my camera and lens on top of the trashcan. I can
say I was not extremely confident with the stability of the gorillapod. I have the sturdier SLR Zoom model of gorillapod but it is
not as stable as a tripod (it did work out ok though for the most part). I think that a tripod would be better though and some
day perhaps I will look into a smallish portable tripod that I wouldn't mind lugging around and won't cost me and arm and a leg.
The gorillapod serves its purpose fairly well though. One other important part of my set up is the remote I have to trigger the shutter.
I have a wireless remote for my camera and it helps to prevent additional vibration when taking the shot.

3. Composition
Before the show starts I wanted to get an initial composition set. I tried to set the bottom of the frame low enough to get a
decent amount of the castle but high enough to avoid too much in the way of people. Being a novice at shooting fireworks at the
castle I had no idea how much sky to include so I winged it. In retrospect it is probably is best err on the side of a larger
field of view. Then at least you can crop later if you want vs. not capturing the entire shot. I also did not know enough to go
wide enough to capture the fireworks that appear to be shot off the sides of the castle. So, my composition was good for fireworks
directly behind the castle and not good for wider shots. There is real no right or wrong here it just depends on what you are
trying to capture. Next time I will at least have more knowledge about what to expect. One last thing to be cognizant of is to try
get the castle level. This is also something you can try to correct in post processing but you will lose some of the picture in the
process so it is best to get it level from the start.


4. Exposure
My objective was to get a decent exposure set for the castle before the show started and once I had that set I would keep it there
and hope for the best with capturing a good exposure of the fireworks. I had the following starting objectives ISO = 100,
aperture = f/8 and shutter speed in the 2-4 second range. My strategy was to set the exposure, keep it there and continually
fire off shots and hope I captured some of them well enough to get a good burst and trail. Since I was not knowledgeable enough
to time the bursts I was thinking the 4 second exposure would be best to increase my chances of getting a good shot albeit I was
still nervous of the effects of camera vibrations and people movement with a longer shutter speed. I know some people are a
proponent of using bulb mode but my concern there was not having a very good control on the exposure of the castle.
I wish I could go more often and try different techniques but I am not that fortunate. Anyway, I settled on ISO=100, Aperture=f/8
and Shutter Speed=4 seconds. If needed, I would have probably first adjusted aperture if I wanted to adjust the exposure one way
or the other (up to a certain point) and was not averse to going to ISO 200 if necessary.

Side note...A piece of advice is to have a good feel for your camera controls so that in darkness you can quickly change settings.
A small light source from a cell phone or something similar is useful as well. I usually keep my camera in a "P", "Av" or "Tv"
mode and don't venture off into the scary world of Manual mode that often and it is best to know how to be comfortable changing
the settings in advance rather than fumbling around in semi-darkness. Also a good thing to know in advance is how to turn off
your LCD before the show starts if you don't want to bother others around you with your blinking LCD shot after each shot.


4. Shooting
At some point before shooting it is a good idea to have your focus set on the castle and then switch to Manual Focus.
As mentioned above my strategy was to set my exposure in advance and then keep it there and fire away and this is what I basically did.
I now have read in a previous post here that you can time the shot by waiting to hear the fireworks being launched and then a second later
trip the shutter. I was not really thinking to listen for that so I am not sure if you can hear it but it is something to listen for next time.
I also imagine that if you really know the show well you could time your shots based on the music but that is not something I
would be able to do.

A problem that I did have when shooting was the darned people in front blocking parts of the frame (don't they realize I am
doing something more important than their enjoyment :confused3 ) So, I did take time during the show adjusting camera angle upwards
more (which also cut off more of the bottom part of the castle). You can also crop in post processing later. If there is simply
no way to get a good shot then my suggestion is to not fret and just try to enjoy the show rather than get frustrated over getting
a picture.



5. Post processing
When you get home you can always adjust with post processing. Cropping is useful for example when people get in the way of the shot.
For example I cropped this one down to remove someone getting in the way.

Wishes2.jpg


Also, I am by no means an expert in these techniques but I do have noise filtering s/w and I also will sharpen images as
necessary. I can't recall if I really needed to use Neat image or not (I have stupidly lost my original files so I am not sure
what I did in regards to post processing)




Ok, that's all. Sorry for droning on so much. Hope this is helpful to someone.

Oh, One last note is that there are completely different strategies for Illuminations and Fantasmic. I got a only a few decent shots
from illuminations and almost nothing that good from Fantasmic. I am interested in seeing more experiences from others on those shows.
I guess Fantasmic is not really fireworks but it would be good to see some nice examples from the talented people on this board.
I know I am coming late to this party since this thread has been around for a while but hopefully there is still an interest
and others can post.
 
That was actually a very good post.

I, too, set my exposure before the show started--ISO 200 (no 100 on my DSLR), f8, and then (get this), I let my 8YO do the remote. It was a blast.

I think we counted off anywhere from 4-6 seconds up to 10 (for fun, of course).

I did know about the waiting to hear the blast, but it was really hard to hear them, so we just did what we wanted to, and we were amazed at what WE got.

It was our first time with a tripod, remote, etc., but it was well worth it, and I am doing it again next trip.

...and for what it worth....we set up near a trash can and yes, the NERVE of people for (a) using it for trash and (b) for standing in your frame! LOL....:goodvibes

Great post! Will be a great read for newbies and experienced alike! Thanks for sharing it with us!
 

4. Exposure
My objective was to get a decent exposure set for the castle before the show started and once I had that set I would keep it there
and hope for the best with capturing a good exposure of the fireworks.
The problem with this is that the castle is not consistently lit during Wishes. Sometimes it is fairly bright, sometimes it's fairly dark, the colors keep changing... not to mention some of the fireworks (especially the "wishing star" fireworks) are so bright that they'll brighten the castle (and the crowd), too.
 
Dcanoli,
Thank you very much and that is a great idea to get your 8YO involved in taking the pictures with the remote. My son would like that as well.


Groucho,
Thank you for bringing up the color changes that is an excellent point. I intended to mention this but forgot. Since I was standing around for a long time I had ample opportunities to take pictures of the castle while it was changing colors before the start of the show. My preference is to err on the side of underexposure vs overexposure. So, my settings were more in line with the brighter colors. At least that was my intention. It did not seem that the darker colors turned out that badly either though. (At least to me.) I don't consider myself advanced enough, but I guess people more advanced can either quickly make adjustments during the show or use bulb mode and just know how long to keep open the shutter depending on the observed light but that it not me. I just wanted to set up in advance and just click away during the show in hopes that if I took enough that some would turn out. It is a simple strategy but not for everyone.
 
fireworks-1-1.jpg


I closed the flash! When you are under them, there's plenty of light!
Behind the castle is a great secret!
 
/
clearskies, I didn't see it in your post. Did you shoot in RAW or JPEG?

Gorgeous photo, btw. :thumbsup2
 
Hi Pea-n-Me,

These particular pics that I posted are from JPEG originals. My camera does have a mode for capturing RAW plus JPEG for the same shot and I will use that for occasions where I deem important though. Unfortunately all my original files are gone and I only have JPEGs that I burned on a disk for another family that was travelling with us.
 
I don't consider myself advanced enough, but I guess people more advanced can either quickly make adjustments during the show or use bulb mode and just know how long to keep open the shutter depending on the observed light but that it not me. I just wanted to set up in advance and just click away during the show in hopes that if I took enough that some would turn out. It is a simple strategy but not for everyone.
I don't know about anyone else, but I tend to not worry too much about the castle, I try to time the bulb shots to coincide with the fireworks more than the castle. It's so easy to take a pretty large quantity of photos during the average show that you're almost guaranteed to have at least some with a nice combination of fireworks bursts and castle exposure.

But that's just me. Maybe some others adjust bulb timings for castle exposure, but I try not to think that hard about it. :teeth:
 
These are my first attempts at photographing fireworks. I used a Nikon D80 with 18-200mm nikon vr lens and a gorillapod.

2982154097_de1254c854.jpg


2982152157_dbef46bbac.jpg


2982151699_ae25789b05.jpg


2983006920_f20f9e8464.jpg
 
Was the gorillapod stable enough to hold the SLR with lens? I have read some mixed reports.

Thanks!
 
I don't know about anyone else, but I tend to not worry too much about the castle, I try to time the bulb shots to coincide with the fireworks more than the castle. It's so easy to take a pretty large quantity of photos during the average show that you're almost guaranteed to have at least some with a nice combination of fireworks bursts and castle exposure.

Groucho,
I think the converse can also be said that during the show if you start with a good settings before the show of the castle and
then shoot away during the show that you will get some good shots of the fireworks as well. Granted, this is based on my very
limited experience of this one time trying. I did have several results that I was pleased with though. Here are some more.

Wishes4b.jpg

Wishes3b.jpg

Wishes5b.jpg

Wishes6.jpg

Wishes7b.jpg



Is the way I went about it the best or only way to go about it? Oh, not at all but I got results I was happy with.
Based on the body of work I see from you on this forum, I defer to your expertise though and I am thankful for your
inputs. However, I would say that there are many people that are not as advanced and many don't even
know what bulb mode is nor does their camera have that capability. My post was not intended to be the quintessential method to
shoot wishes. I was merely providing information on one method that I used for which I received good results and thus was happy to
share with this community. Heck, I might try something different myself the next time I am am fortunate to be there.


Oh, I did get results where the fireworks were not in full bloom. I still enjoy them because it is really that castle
that was my holy grail. Here is an example where it would have been nice to get more bloom on the fireworks
Wishes8.jpg


I am lucky enough to bring my family to WDW every other year and will hopefully be able to continue to do so. I do have many
other opportunities to shoot fireworks. Though I wanted both the castle and fireworks to come out, the castle has a slightly
higher priority for me. Different people will have different objectives though and I would want it no other way. I love that I can
look at this forum and learn from the different perspectives I see from individuals of all levels of experience.
Ok, I think I have said enough on this topic.





jfinke,
There are different models of the gorillapod. I have gorillapod slr zoom which is supposed to support up to 6.6 lbs according to
their web site. It depends on the camera and lens you use to determine if it will work for you. I prefer a tripod but the portability and
convenience of the gorillapod is great and it can do the job.

Note: I just went to the Joby web site and it looks like they have an even sturdier version now which supposedly supports up to
11 lbs.
 
Was the gorillapod stable enough to hold the SLR with lens? I have read some mixed reports.

Thanks!

I had no problems with the gorillapod. I have the better version that hold I think holds 6 or 7 punds. I had the gorrillapod mounted on a retaining wall at the noodle terrace (I think that is the name) restaurant eating area.
 
Thanks guys. If I get one, I will probably get the largest one they have. I don't really want to drag a regular tripod around WDW.
 
Groucho,
I think the converse can also be said that during the show if you start with a good settings before the show of the castle and
then shoot away during the show that you will get some good shots of the fireworks as well. Granted, this is based on my very
limited experience of this one time trying.
No problem, I'm not trying to give you a hard time, just saying why I do it a different way.

One thing I would suggest for some of your shots is to try shooting in RAW and adjusting the white balance later (or maybe try setting WB to tungsten.) A few of the shots have brownish skies, which is pretty common since digital cameras seem to rarely get accurate white balance at night. Setting it to tungsten helps give you a more correct-colored sky, and shooting RAW allows you to adjust it after the fact on a picture-by-picture basis. You can also then boost the colors a little more than you may want to on most photos. Your final shot (where you wanted more bloom) could probably really "pop" with a little bit of RAW post-processing.
 
Thank you very much for your insight Groucho.
Someday if I can recover my raw files I will definitely take your advice. Irregardless, you have given me good things to consider on my next venture.
 
I'm leaving for Disney in about three weeks. I have a basic point and shoot camera, a Canon PowerShot A540. When I take photos on automatic of fireworks or nighttime shots, they don't turn out very well. I can manually adjust different settings, but I'm not sure which ones to adjust. Can you offer some advice? Thanks!
 
Have a read of this thread, which has got a lot of information on it and I think should have an answer to all your questions - hopefully your camera will allow you to change enough settings.

I'd certainly recommend some sort of tripod.
 













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