External flashes

I teach journalism, and this year the school has decided to have the department (meaning me) take the senior composite pictures. I have a Nikon SB-800 that I've used for sports portraits before and just used the flash on the camera as a bounce flash. I thought I might need to step it up a bit for these, so I planned on using a softbox umbrella on a stand. I now have everything I need - the wireless flash trigger, umbella, mount and stand, but I have yet to get a perfect portrait. Can somebody give me some tips on what settings I need to use on both the camera and flash to give me a nice, soft look to my portraits?

Thanks!
 
At Disney, the only time I used my external flash was at the character meals. Other than that I would just use the pop-up when I needed a flash (mostly for character pictures at night).

Overall, I do like using my external flash. I use it with a diffuser. Very nice to use for indoor candids or events and I'll also use it outside sometimes for fill.

Here are a few I took today. Sun was harsh as it was around noon time so the fill flash worked nicely.

673338603_6RDcW-L.jpg


673341277_DpDBE-L.jpg


673343760_kfVka-L.jpg
 
What have you been using for settings thus far and what do the results look like (read: post examples)

Typically for me, I like ISO400, f/5.6 at around 1/60th. I haven't used a wireless trigger setup with umbrella's and softboxes. I have used continuous light umbrella lighting. Final settings will depend on how much light is getting to your subject.
 
Thanks for the info. The only examples I have are of my students, so I don't want to post them without permission. So far, I haven't got many useful images, though. :confused3

The best so far were at ISO200, f4.8 and 1/250 and the flash at 1/2
 

What camera?
What type of wireless trigger?
What kind of umbrella (shoot through or reflective)?
Group or individual portraits?
Where are you shooting (indoor/outdoor)?
What's the ambient light (open shade outside, flourescent lights inside)?
Also, can you explain why you chose the particular settings you did?
It's going to be tough to explain where you're going wrong without an image. Maybe you can take a self-portrait and post that?
 
Without seeing what you are trying to do, it's almost impossible to just hand over settings and have them work perfectly. Take a picture of yourself or your significant other or even your own child for us to see what your product looks like. Then also do a pull-back shot of your set up. From there, we would be able to walk you through the process a lot better.
 
Thanks for the info. The only examples I have are of my students, so I don't want to post them without permission. So far, I haven't got many useful images, though. :confused3

The best so far were at ISO200, f4.8 and 1/250 and the flash at 1/2

could you be more specific on what is wrong with the results?

I've just started playing with OCF in an umbrella and I saw a big improvement after I paid more attention to where everything was placed (i.e. Flash angle and distance to subject as well as subject distance to backdrop).
 
/
if you can't post examples could you at least elaborate on the pictures... underexposed, overexposed..etc...

if underexposed by chance, try bumping iso to 400 and dropping shutter speed to 1/60
 
Great photos MarkBarbieri and handicap18. Handicap18, did you use the diffuser here? I was thinking of getting (or making) a bounce card to use my flash outside when I get it.
 
I have the Quantaray equivalent for my Canon XSi. For the money, it provides a much better flash than the camera flash. It doesn't really have has much sync options as the Canon-made ones, but it is half the price of the lowest Canon one (for my camera).

Here's an example at the bottom of Carlsbad Caverns. My son is about 10 feet away. It lit an area about 400 sq ft (20 x 20).

3760480506_7650878bc9.jpg
 
I tried something interesting this weekend and was happy with the results. I simply took a piece of paper folded in half and put it at 45 degrees in front of my pop up flash on my 50D. I then did an FE lock on my subject and took the shot. The results were quite impressive! Had the effect of a bounce flash without being able to swivel the pop up flash head. Something fun to try if anyone is interested.
 
Great idea VVFF! I've been holding a mirror up to my popup flash to bounce it off the ceiling and I have a fairly low ceiling so it works great but holding the mirror up to the camera will get old! There is a product called Lightscoop that does the job for you that's about $30, and I was considering this but I think I want the external flash for the extra power.
 
I use a Speedlite on my Canon Xsi mostly for character shots. I like it so much that when I got to the airport for this last trip and realized I had left it at home, I called a friend and had her bring it to the airport for me!

I could probably get by with the onboard flash, but I hate the recycle time. If the flash "busies" up, you can't ask the people behind you to wait until it's ready!
 
Okay, don't laugh, but here is an example. I put a bar over the student's eyes even though yesterday was his last day of school & he's over 18, so it's probably fine anyway.

test.jpg


Should I be using a reflector to help with the shadows?
 
That's not nearly as bad as I thought it would be based on your description.

Shoot through a large umbrella and get it REALLY close to his face...just out of the camera frame. This will give wraparound light and soft shadow transition. Throw up a reflector on the other side (cheap white foamboard will do) to fill in shadows a little, but be careful not to get his ear too illuminated. Move him further from the background...you can see light falloff and his shadow on the right side. Increasing the distance of the background will help even out the light on the background and will darken it a little. A little hair light or spot on the background behind his head would help with separation after you've moved the background back.

All of this assumes that you're looking for a "safe", normal, well-exposed senior portrait. I actually like moody, deep shadows and creative shots, but I don't think that's what you're going for based on the setup.

Additionally, I'd crop a little closer, get his eyes further up in the frame (kill the dead space over his head), and improve his posture and shoulder angle.

You used a fast shutter speed, killing the ambient light, which is good, especially if the ambient light is coming from flourescent tubes. This ensure that your lights are the primary.

Tones look a little flat, but that's the reality with digital capture. A little pop in post-production will help.
 
That's not nearly as bad as I thought it would be based on your description.

Shoot through a large umbrella and get it REALLY close to his face...just out of the camera frame. This will give wraparound light and soft shadow transition. Throw up a reflector on the other side (cheap white foamboard will do) to fill in shadows a little, but be careful not to get his ear too illuminated. Move him further from the background...you can see light falloff and his shadow on the right side. Increasing the distance of the background will help even out the light on the background and will darken it a little. A little hair light or spot on the background behind his head would help with separation after you've moved the background back.

All of this assumes that you're looking for a "safe", normal, well-exposed senior portrait. I actually like moody, deep shadows and creative shots, but I don't think that's what you're going for based on the setup.

Additionally, I'd crop a little closer, get his eyes further up in the frame (kill the dead space over his head), and improve his posture and shoulder angle.

You used a fast shutter speed, killing the ambient light, which is good, especially if the ambient light is coming from flourescent tubes. This ensure that your lights are the primary.

Tones look a little flat, but that's the reality with digital capture. A little pop in post-production will help.

Thanks for all the tips! :thumbsup2 I think based on your tips, that my main problem is having the umbrella too far from the subject. I really had no idea where it should be. Thanks for the tip about the distance from the background, too. I should have realized that. I am having to deal with flourescent light in the room, and yes, I'm just looking for "normal" senior pictures. This is primarily for the composite picture that hangs on the school wall, so I can't get too creative.

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a try this afternoon!
 
No problem, ms.yt
When it comes to the shadow edge of light, here's what you need to know. The farther and smaller the light source is in relation to the subject, the harder the shadow edge will be. The opposite is true; the closer and larger the light source is in relation to the subject, the softer the shadow edge will be.

Take, for example, the sun. The sun is HUGE, but in relation to a person on earth, it's just a tiny blip in the sky. So, a light source that small creates very defined and dark shadows. On an overcast day the light scatters through the atmosphere and clouds, so the entire sky is a light source (like a giant light box), so it produces soft shadows.

Another example, a desk lamp or flashlight aimed at your face from across the room will create hard shadows, because compared to you, it's a small light source and is very far. However, if you take that same desktop/flashlight and place it an inch away from something small, like a toy matchbox car, it will create soft shadows because in relation to that subject, it's a large light source and it's very close.

Another thing you wanna know about light is a little something called the inverse square law. What it says that every time you double the subject's distance from a light source, the amount of light hitting the subject will be reduced to just one quarter (1/4) of what it was before. Double the distance = 1/4 the light. So, light falls off very quickly when you're close to the light source. A child standing a foot away from a window (the light source) will have four times the light hitting her than a child standing just two feet away from the window and sixteen times as much light as a child standing just four feet from the window. Think about that for a minute. Three feet of difference isn't very much, but it results in a very dramatic reduction in light, because they are very close to the light source. However, two children three feet apart from each other, but twenty feet from the window, will not be as dramatically different from each other, exposure-wise, as the children who are near the window are to each other.

So, one way to control the strength of light, aside from adjusting the power of the flash unit, is to vary its distance to the subject. But, as previously explained, moving a light further away in order to reduce its strength can also make the light "harder". If you're using a key light and a fill light (or fill reflector), it's easier to move the fill around to get the light ratio you want. That's because the key light will create the primary direction of light and shadow, and mask any harsh shadows that the fill would create if it were the only light source.
 
...I was thinking of getting (or making) a bounce card to use my flash outside when I get it.

You can't bounce off of the sky. Unless you're going to bounce off a wall, reflector, or something similar to get a larger (and, thus, softer) directional light source, you'd be better off aiming the flash directly at the subject and turning the power down about 1 and one-third stops. Pointing your flash up to the sky will just drain your batteries and cause longer recycling times.
 
Great photos MarkBarbieri and handicap18. Handicap18, did you use the diffuser here? I was thinking of getting (or making) a bounce card to use my flash outside when I get it.

Kyle, what diffuser do you use?

I use the Gary Fong Inverted Dome II Difuser. I have it on the flash probably for 85% of my flash shots.

I use it mostly in the up right postition. Indoors it will bounce the flight off a ceiling. Outdoors it just adds some soft fill light. I find I like using the diffused flash for outdoor shots better than a negative compensation from the popup or direct flash.


I also keep a small piece of white cardboard in my camera bag. It has a piece of velcro on it. I also have a piece of velcro on the flash so when I don't have the diffuser I'll put the piece of cardboard and use the bounced diffused flash from the white cardboard. You'll see this alot with photo journalists when taking outdoor shots.
 

PixFuture Display Ad Tag












Receive up to $1,000 in Onboard Credit and a Gift Basket!
That’s right — when you book your Disney Cruise with Dreams Unlimited Travel, you’ll receive incredible shipboard credits to spend during your vacation!
CLICK HERE














DIS Facebook DIS youtube DIS Instagram DIS Pinterest DIS Tiktok DIS Twitter

Back
Top