External flashes

I do a lot of flash photography at work and I'll tell you that Canon's E-TTL can be very problematic. When I train people on our Canon gear I explain that there are two exposures in this type of photography: the ambient light exposure and the flash exposure. It's important to understand that they act independently of each other. One does not affect the other. You sometimes have to make a decision when there is a mixed lighting situation.

If you choose to use the ambient light you may have problems with white balance when the flash and the other lighting don't have the same approximate color temperature. The solution is to use gels (as mentioned above) or to simply use the flash as the sole source of light. To do this switch to Manual mode and set your shutter speed to something fast enough to make the meter (which calculates ambient light) read extreme underexposure. Indoors I usually have my settings at f/5.6, 1/100, ISO 100-400. Bounced flash looks much more natural so you're on the right track there but the light can take on the color of the surface that you are bouncing off of. Try to use white walls and ceilings.

So now that you're using your flash as the sole source of illumination the unpredictability of the flash system becomes apparent. You will almost always need to set your flash exposure compensation (FEC) to at least +2/3 or your shots will look grossly underexposed. Be very aware of the tone of the subject that you are photographing. If, as in your last photo, the subject is very light then the flash system will underexpose. You will need to compensate with additional FEC or learn to use the flash exposure lock button (the one marked *). Also remember that the subject under the active focus point will receive the greatest weight when the camera calculates flash exposure.

Flash on the Canons is not very predictable. I think that the system was designed to be used as fill flash in well lit conditions not as a single source of illumination. As a result when you use flash you have to really be aware of how your photos are turning out and be ready to make adjustments and try again. After you've taken many many flash photos you'll start to get a feel for the quirks of E-TTL. It's better than it used to be but it's still not great.
 
How is this?? No bouncing... flash right on. My girlfriend has the same problem when bouncing....


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Hmmm...

My guess is that the white balance is getting confused. For instance in the second photo you've got a large area filled with a very warm color (yellow). Maybe the camera is trying to compensate because it thinks the photo is too warm and so you end up with a bluish skin tone.

In the first photo you've got a large area with no color (the black rug) and a relatively small area with skin tones and a blue shirt. Maybe the camera is trying to find a happy medium between the two colors and an overly warm tint is the result.

I'm kinda guessing here so take it with a grain of salt.

So, try locking your white balance by using the "Flash" setting or learn to use Custom WB. Let me know if this helps. I'm intrigued...
 
not trying to hijack but wondering, is that why they have kelvin white balances on the 30 d? i was trying to figure out what you'd use them for. would kelvin be a more consistent wb to use with flash?( since i know nothing about flash)

ps he is so cute!
 

not trying to hijack but wondering, is that why they have kelvin white balances on the 30 d? i was trying to figure out what you'd use them for. would kelvin be a more consistent wb to use with flash?( since i know nothing about flash)

ps he is so cute!

That's for taking pictures of people named Kelvin. They are notorious picky about their WB.

Seriously, if you are using studio lighting, your bulb probably is set to fire at a particular color temperature in kelvin, so you could just match that. You might also use a color temperature meter and using the kelvin setting to adjust your white balance to match.

I've never used the kelvin settings and can't recall hearing from anyone that does. The people I know that are picky about white balancing use custom white balance based on either some form of grey card or an expodisc. If you were doing product photography where you colors had to be exact, that's probably not good enough.

For my shooting, I usually like slightly warmer than correct WB anyway, so I leave it on auto and adjust it to suit my tastes.
 
Hi there, i am seriously thinking about getting the canon 430 EX for my camera but have a question...i have been reading up on it and realize the benefits of indoor photography and fill flash in daylight, but what i am not sure of is how it would affect my nightime pics....We are headed to DL :cool1: :banana: :cool1: in a few weeks, and am wondering how much the flash would help me in my nighttime pics...Also, is it a huge help indoors taking action shots...my oldest daughter cheerleads and my son plays hockey and of course, getting great shots indoors is difficult(without a dslr)...i just wondered if it would help with these pics also...my youngest daughter plays soccer outdoors, thankfully i can get great pics already here...thanks of any and all advice of buying this flash...for the amount of money i just want to make sure it is really worth it...

sharon
 
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I have the S3 and was wondering when people take night shots do you use the flash ? I know the flash isnt that pwerful so it really isnt going to help with any real distance shots which would be most of the shots at Disney so was just wonders how effective really is the flash at night?
 
If you are taking a close up photo of family, etc., the flash would be useful. However, for night parades, fireworks, etc. the flash will really not be any help. In fact, using the flash will ruin a lot of night time WDW photos (I'm speaking from experience here :sad2: )
 
A small amount of fill flash can help with night parades, as long as it does not overpower the main lighting. The effect should be subtle and barely even noticeable unless flash/noflash photos are compared directly.

To do this the flash power should be reduced by at least 1 or 2 stops. Sometimes it is difficult to accurately predict the effect (for me anyway) so I take several images and adjust the flash power until I get the effect I want.
 
It depends on the shot your looking for, sometimes it will help, and sometimes it will compleatly kill your shot.

One example is the parades, your flash would be effective, but in most cases your going to expose things to the picture that your really not supposed to be seeing.

But I always chuckle at folks that are taking pics of fireworks with their flash.
 
I have never tried, but a flash diffuser might be effective for night parades.

Another technique for getting good night shots with a flash is the night portrait mode that many cameras have. It takes a longer exposure in order to properly expose the background, so be sure to have the camera on a tripod and to tell the subject to be still even after the flash is complete.

If you do not have this mode, it can be done in manual mode. First, set the exposure correctly for the background without flash but then use a flash. You might have to play with the flash intensity to get it right.

Kevin
 
thanks I have used the flash on a couple of tries at night pictures and I feel it tends to make it really look darker outside of like a three or four foot range unless I up the power to the flash. I was just checking with you guys to see if what I thought was right that being that flash at night is really only good for close range or fill flash
 
Hi all! My son has a Canon 30D and we plan on giving him an external flash for Christmas. Any recommendations in the $250 range (I know that's not much) would be greatly appreciated!
 
Thanks - the Canon looks better than the Sunpak he was talking about (he used to work for Ritz Camera).
 
I am very happy with my 430ex and Gary Fong Light Diffuser II, although the Whale Tail looks interesting.
 
I figured I'd get the diffuser as a "stocking stuffer". Thanks for the replies!
 













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