Canon S3

Great job! :thumbsup2 You took such beautiful pictures. I know this has probably been asked but how did you take your firework shots? I used night snapshot with continuous shooting and they came out pretty good. I like to see how other people take theirs. Thanks so much! :goodvibes

I've found that the sports mode works so much better than either fireworks or night. Whenever I use fireworks or night, the camera seems to take a long time to focus and the pics turn out blurry even if they seemed to be focused on the LCD. Of course, it could be the camera operator.....:)
 
If I can add to this as well, what I do is crop my photo to the size that I want printed. You can set the size of crop that you want in most photo editing programs. If I want a 4x6, I crop it so that the picture is 4x6 or 8x12. If I want 5x7 I crop it as 5x7 or 10x14. 8x10 is 8x10 or 16x20. As long as the ratio is the same, it will fit on the print that you want. I don't leave the cropping to the photo lab. They will do their best to fit it all on the photo, but it usually cuts off grandmas ear or something! :scared1:

I've tried several photo printers. Whenever I upload the photo, it will have a rectangular shape superimposed on top of my picture which cuts off parts of the picture no matter what size I choose. The 8 x 10's do seem to include more of the picture but it's never as much as the uploaded photo. :confused3
 
smugmug offers a print size that is more square and fits what you "shoot" onto your "print" -- it's the 4x5.3 size. Haven't tried it myself, but I plan to with the holiday pictures from this year. Unfortunately Costco doesn't offer this option, they tell you to just crop "wider" to allow for the "crop factor" of thier equipment. Good luck!

I'll try that site and see if I get better results. Thanks.
 
It should be here next week but we are gonig to HM concert and want to know how to get the best pictures at a concert. I am sure I will have time to mess around with it but would love anything you can tell me before it gets here.

I realy excited to get it and see what it can do but must admit I am not camera savy so any tips are GREATLY appreciated. I plan to read the thread over the next couple days.

thanks so much in advance~
 

I realy excited to get it and see what it can do but must admit I am not camera savy so any tips are GREATLY appreciated. I plan to read the thread over the next couple days.

Hi, digman6 ... I posted some specific advice over in your other thread....

Feel free to ask questions; we're a friendly bunch. Most of us are more than happy to talk (and talk and talk and talk) about our beloved S3/S5 cameras! :goodvibes :lmao:
 
Regarding printing the photos: snapfish.com also ask when you check out if you want to change the photo size to the 4x5.3. The page shows how it is cropped and how the digital size differs from the normal. I have been ordering from there and really like them.
 
I've tried several photo printers. Whenever I upload the photo, it will have a rectangular shape superimposed on top of my picture which cuts off parts of the picture no matter what size I choose. The 8 x 10's do seem to include more of the picture but it's never as much as the uploaded photo. :confused3

I believe that you will have to actually crop the photo before sending it to the printer. If it is cropped to the dimensions that you want, it should print perfectly. If you leave it up to the printer to crop to fit, it will make it however it feels it will fit best. That is usually where things go wrong. Do you have photoshop or another program that you can crop them before printing or sending out to be printed? You can probably do this with the Canon software that came with your camera too, but I'm not sure. I never really used it.
 
I've found that the sports mode works so much better than either fireworks or night. Whenever I use fireworks or night, the camera seems to take a long time to focus and the pics turn out blurry even if they seemed to be focused on the LCD. Of course, it could be the camera operator.....:)

Thanks for the tip! :thumbsup2 Did you happen to set the ISO lower when taking your firework pictures? I found that when I use sports mode, my pictures come out really grainy. I'm really nervous about experimenting with my camera. I am an auto kind of girl! :goodvibes
 
A question for the experts... Does anyone have experience with a good bendable tripod? I've been looking around and this one is compact-ish, (which is plus for me) but it apparently won't hold up a S5 IS. (It has a lot of great reviews though) Are there any others that you guys would recommend?
 
I'm not sure which Gorillapod that one is, but I used the medium size Gorillapod with my S2is on our WDW trip in September and it did an awesome job! :thumbsup2 It worked great set up on top of a trash can for Illuminations or wrapped around the railing for castle shots. I had no trouble with it supporting the S2. I'm not sure how much heavier the S5 is, but if you were really concerned the larger Gorillapod would work as it's designed for DSLR camera bodies. I actually used my medium on my new XTi and it supported it just fine (as a tripod) with the smaller kit lens attached. It also helped stablized the camera with the zoom attached, but I was concerned that it would start to tip down before I was finished! Don't know if I would let go of it with a larger lens attached!!:sad2: I would take your camera to a camera shop and they should have one you could try out on your camera to see what is most comfortable for you! Good luck!:)
 
How well does a Gorilla Pod work with the S3. I am going to be going there for Mardi Gras and wanted to use it to take some indoor shots and fireworks.
I am also looking for some good batteries. Right now I use Eneloops
Also is there any suggestions for settings to use for indoor
 
I use the SLR Gorillapod for my S3. When I was researching the Gorillapod, it lists the maximum weight for each model, and I had to go with the SLR version because of the weight of the S3. So you'll prob. need the SLR Gorillapod with the S5 also.

Taqwus - I think the Eneloops are supposed to be the best rechargeable batteries out there, aren't they? They're supposed to hold the charge even when sitting around. I've been using the Energizer rechargeables (2500), and I've been burned too many times thinking that since I just charged them 2 or 3 weeks earlier they'd still be good. Wrong-o!! Eneloops are on my wish list for whenever my Energizers finally die.
 
First of all let me say I have read the book not all of it but quit a bit of it anyhow. I messed with it a little bit as well.

I don't really understand what you all are talking about making ALOT of*noise* , I am assuming you are not meaning the shutter when you take the picture but maybe you are.

The ISO has me all confused first of not sure how to know what setting etc etc.???
Next... there is this F2.5 that can be changed etc etc. what does that all mean in short term and how do you know what number to have it on??

HOw do you decided the speed it should be at is higher faster or is it actually slower??

I am taking the girls to Hannah Montana ... its inside and I am sitting fairly far back. I am going to assume that there is alot of movement on the stage with it being a young active singer and her kind of music.
How do you decide what setting is best???
I have taken some basic pictures and that but really can not grasp teh meaning of some of these setting adjustments and what exactly they mean and how to make it the right setting for what I am doing.

I am not asking to rewrite the handbook though it seems like that maybe:rolleyes1 .
I am a hands on learner I need to see it to get it so this book it bugging the you know what out of me!
Guess I just got a camera that really I am not used to after my Kodak easyshare! I hope someone can help me out and if not I guess I will figure it out at some point:worship: :worship: :hug:

Thanks everyone in advance if you can help me out!:hug:
I love the camera so far though
 
Hi Steph! Since you just got the camera and don't have much time to experiment (isn't the Hannah Montana concert coming up soon for you?), I'll try to make it as easy as possible, based on my experience with my Canon S3. I don't fully understand all the technical stuff either (although I've gotten MUCH better since I've been hanging out on this board!:) ), so I hope the "pros" will bear with me and my explanations.

When taking a picture, ISO, aperture and shutter speed all combine to create the correct exposure for taking a photo. You can have various combinations of the 3 and have the lighting (how bright or dark the photo is) basically the same, but end up with diff. results.

First of all let me say I have read the book not all of it but quit a bit of it anyhow. I messed with it a little bit as well.

I don't really understand what you all are talking about making ALOT of*noise* , I am assuming you are not meaning the shutter when you take the picture but maybe you are.

The ISO has me all confused first of not sure how to know what setting etc etc.???

You're correct, "noise" has nothing to do with hearing noises from the camera, it has to do with graininess in the photos. Which is where ISO comes in. Remember in the old days of using film, if you were taking photos in bright sunlight you bought a roll of ISO100 film, but if you knew you'd be shooting in low light you'd buy ISO400 or 800. But the "faster" ISO400 or 800 film caused grainy pictures.

Same thing with digital cameras (and the size of the sensor inside your camera also have something to do with graininess; I think it was Groucho who had a detailed explanation of this somewhere on the Photo Board) - your camera can boost the ISO (either automatically or you can set it yourself in certain shooting modes). My boys are both in the high school marching band, so I take a lot of shots at band competitions at night under football stadium lights. So I use Sports mode on my S3. Sports mode uses a fast shutter to stop action. But in order to have enough light so I don't end up with dark photos, the camera opens the aperture as much as it can (2.8 or 3.5 when zoomed), and if that's still not enough light, then it'll boost the ISO to 800 or 1600. (Note that in Sports mode on the S3 - and I assume the S5 as well - you can't manually set the ISO.) This results in grainy photos. I don't know how well you'll be able to see the graininess on these small photos, but here's a shot from Festival of the Lion King; look right around the flames on the end of his stick and you'll see the grain:
IMG_6374.jpg


That's why a lot of us run these kinds of photos thru Noiseware (which you can get download for free) - it smooths out the grain, and you'll end up with this:
IMG_6374_filtered.jpg


Next... there is this F2.5 that can be changed etc etc. what does that all mean in short term and how do you know what number to have it on??

HOw do you decided the speed it should be at is higher faster or is it actually slower??

F2.5 refers to the aperture, this is how big the opening in the lens is and controls how much light is let in. Some of the really fancy lenses have apertures that range from F1.8 clear down to F11 or F16. Think of this like measuring cups - 1/2 cup is bigger than 1/4 cup; an aperture of F1.8 is wider than F11, so F1.8 will let in more light. So if you're taking photos in low light (light a concert) you'll want to use as wide an aperture as possible to let in as much light as possible.

When you mention "speed", are you asking about the shutter speed? This is how fast the shutter opens and closes; open longer lets in more light BUT if you want to stop action (like at the concert), you'll need a fast shutter. Again, think of measuring cups: a shutter speed of 1/10 of a sec. is slower than 1/125 of a sec.

I am taking the girls to Hannah Montana ... its inside and I am sitting fairly far back. I am going to assume that there is alot of movement on the stage with it being a young active singer and her kind of music.
How do you decide what setting is best???
I have taken some basic pictures and that but really can not grasp teh meaning of some of these setting adjustments and what exactly they mean and how to make it the right setting for what I am doing.

I am not asking to rewrite the handbook though it seems like that maybe:rolleyes1 .
I am a hands on learner I need to see it to get it so this book it bugging the you know what out of me!
Guess I just got a camera that really I am not used to after my Kodak easyshare! I hope someone can help me out and if not I guess I will figure it out at some point:worship: :worship: :hug:

Thanks everyone in advance if you can help me out!:hug:
I love the camera so far though

After all that, my advice: since you're still fairly new to the camera and don't have too much time to play around with all the settings, do what I do and shoot on Sports mode. You'll stand a better chance of getting decent shots. They'll be grainy, but all you have to do is run them thru Noiseware and they'll look great. Another tip that Sharon Lowe posted here a while back: turn your shutter onto continuous shooting (a small button on the top of the camera). I've found that helps tremendously in getting sharper photos - you might move the camera just a tiny bit when you first press the shutter and blur the shot, but when using continuous shutter your 2nd and 3rd shots will be sharper.

Did I help a little, or confuse you more?
 
Anyone know of a program similar to noiseware that works with iPhoto?

thanks:)
 
:worship: :worship: It is making more sense now, though I will be taking notes;)

So sounds like I need to go with Sports mode to make life easiest for me this weekend! I can deal with grainy now that I know i can pull some of that out as you were telling me( I had no idea I could do that!:lmao: :worship: )

Can I assume if I put it in *sports* that I will not need to adjust anything ?

I had thought that the nighttime choice would be more sensable because its dark but I guess with the movement you need the sports.

I can not thank you enough for telling me this, I really wanted to have good pictures for dd's.

the concert is on Sunday this coming week.

I really appreciate you taking the time to read this and help me out. I have alot to learn about this camera and it will come in time and the help of the rest of you and your tips!

:hug: :hug: :flower3: :worship:
 
I see that digman6 posted at 9:20 but I don't see her post anywhere. I think the board is acting up again...

And just as soon as I typed that, there is her post. Go figure... :confused3
 
Thanks for the advice on the Gorillapod! I think I'm gonna end up getting the SLR one. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

So I had my first day out at DLR with the new S5 and I come bearing more questions. (And hoping that you all bear with me also.. :flower3:) What are the best settings for indoor rides? I was trying in vain to capture Haunted Mansion Holiday once more before they take it down for refurbishment and all I got was dark outlines and disappointment. :sad1: (The only ones I tried were Night Snapshot, Sport and Auto, no tweaking, but no luck either) What setting do you find are best for these pictures?

And one that I kinda think is not possible- can you check the battery status at all? Thanks in advance!
 
Okay maybe this has been anwsered here already, but since my 3 1/2 yr old son will only let me "play" on the computer for a few minutes I will ask and hopefully if it has been answered you could point me to the pg number on this thread.


I have an S5 is. I just purchased a sakar digital concepts Power zoom flash for canon 952AF (the speedlites were just way out of my price range an dthis one works with the canon S5 is).

I have the same problem with the built in flash as well as this new flash (maybe someone that has this flash could help me figure it out because I have never had to maunally set things on my flash before). My problem is that I am getting either really grainy photos with ISO 80 in P mode with flash or photos that aren't very sharp looking. Also having problem with faces being way overexposed, but with no flash they are too underexposed. I come from using a 35mm Rebel which I loved, but have noticed that even 200 speed film is being developed and looks very grainy to me. I also had great success with my Kodak easyshare z700, which I think is now suffering from photo overload (since thanksgiving 2005 I have taken a lot of photos- 4,000 up) and the past year I started noticing more grain and less sharpness in all my photos no matter what shooting conditions were so I purchased the S5 powershot this fall (my son started preschool and I needed those memories well preserved :)

Any good tips would be great. I really want this figured out before we go to Disney May 08. Also best setting with flash for different shooting situations. At Disney a lot of shots will be outside, but at home I do a lot of inside the house shots and would like to get those looking a little better.

Also when I used a tripod with timer setting and took family photo (have done a group of 15-20 and a group of 3) I can't seem to get everyone to be in focus when I take the photo. Auto Mode- Face Detect doesn't detect everyone, especially in large group. How do I get everyone in focus?

ALso for flash what is 1st curtain vs 2nd curtain setting used for in the menu?


Thanks in advance for any help.
Jennifer Crider
 
My problem is that I am getting either really grainy photos with ISO 80 in P mode with flash or photos that aren't very sharp looking.

Could you post a couple of pictures so we can see what you mean?

At ISO80, there should be little to no noise with flash or without.

Also having problem with faces being way overexposed, but with no flash they are too underexposed.

Is it possible that the brand of flash doesn't properly communicate with the S5, in that it's not adjusting the exposure for the amount of flash that will be output? I don't have an S5 or an external flash, but there was a thread about using external flashes for DSLRs a while back that was explaining the various ways that flashes and camera interact....

Also when I used a tripod with timer setting and took family photo (have done a group of 15-20 and a group of 3) I can't seem to get everyone to be in focus when I take the photo. Auto Mode- Face Detect doesn't detect everyone, especially in large group. How do I get everyone in focus?

I hate to put it this way, but you might have a problem camera -- maybe you should exchange it for a new one.

There's no reason that I can think of why a group of people wouldn't all be in focus nor why you're seeing excessive noise at ISO80.

I use the timer for groups shots on my S3 (no Face Detection but otherwise the same) and have never had this problem.

Again, can you post a couple of these problem pictures?

ALso for flash what is 1st curtain vs 2nd curtain setting used for in the menu?

1st curtain fires the flash at the instant the shutter opens and 2nd curtain fires the flash just before it closes; the effect is more dramatic, of course, when using slow shutter speeds ( > 1 sec.).

1st curtain is the default, but 2nd curtain can be used for interesting effects like a picture of a moving car frozen by the flash, but still showing light trails.
 












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