Maui (Cosplay) - Creating the Hook - Part 1
As I showed earlier (
link), the Maui singlet that I designed using a variety of self-made art as well as art from the movie faithfully recreated is well on its way. The final art has been sent off to Germany, approved, and a scheduled delivery date of sometime in early February. So with the singlet all but finished, it was time to set my sights on re-creating Maui's hook.
I haven't run with a prop before. Let alone run a HM with a prop. So I had a few goals in mind when creating Maui's hook.
1) First and foremost, I still plan to run fast. Not a PR level, but still quite quick. So the item needed to be light.
2) I don't want to carry it in my hand all the time. So I needed to develop a method that would enable me to be hands-free at times when desired, but still keeping it light and ability to run fast.
3) It needed to be a decent sized hook, while also still being able to fit in my hard covered carry on luggage.
4) I want the hook to be lit up. So I needed to find a method that would light it, but stay light weight.
That's where I started in the design process, and then as time passed during the creation of Maui's hook there was (and still is) some trouble shooting. I started off by trying to find a good image of the hook and then printing it to size. I went through this process twice (once with a hook approximately 24 inches long and the second time at 30 inches long). The 30 inch long hook fits in the luggage and seems like a better size in proportion to me.
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Next, I laid out the cut out of the hook on to the Plastazote LD45 (
link). This is my go to translucent foam. And since most everything I do is lit up, it's my main go to for all my items I make. I wanted the hook to be thick, so I'm using 8mm foam and I'm cutting out the design three times to bulk it up. I considered making the hook in two pieces (the handle and the bone), but I worried whether the connection point would be a weak link. So I'm going with a whole single design.
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Three piece cut out into an identical size. I then stacked the three on each other and found the one that seemed the largest. This piece would be my middle. By being the largest, it would allow me to create a tiny bit of 3-D structure to it when I start to carve it out. Less boxy, and more like a real curved bone shape on the edges.
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I hollowed out the middle piece to allow me some space to work with on the inside. Space for lights, space for magnets, and space for determining how I would attach the hook to me hands-free while not obstructing my stride.
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I glued the middle piece onto the bottom piece using Barge All-Purpose Cement (
link). This stuff works great, but don't get it on your fingers and it's really strong glue. I went back and forth on how to attach the bottom/middle to the top. I wanted to allow easy access to the components because the LED batteries would need to be changed at some point. So I couldn't just seal it up. And in case anything goes wrong, having easy access is important. I considered using velcro, but the Scarlet Witch headband for G taught me that it would be really difficult to get the velcro to sit flush. And thus there would be a very visible seam between the two halves. So I went with the 4mm x 2mm magnets (
link) that I used for the Ms Marvel fist. Even though they're small, they're mighty. I tried lining up the two by sight, but I missed on almost every magnet pair. Then, the second time, I tried marking each of the 1st set pairs of the magnets with sharpie, then pressing down the top half of the hook on top. This left faint marks on the top half where to drill the holes for the 2nd magnet of the pair. This worked well and everything lined up. I now had a hook in one piece.
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I would the whole hook in Flexbond (
link). It's a primer specifically made for foam that dries translucent and allows the foam to stay flexible. It'll also allow me to use less acrylic paint.
Next was testing out some paint choices. Since we're working with light again, I want the hook to look good both when the lights aren't visible, and when the lights are. So it's about balancing the appearance of the paint under both conditions. I went through my Liquitex Basicis Acrylic paint (
link) and found the closest color to bone that I've got. Unbleached titanium. I tried several methods of painting on a couple of scrap pieces of foam. I used a paint brush, a foam brush, and an old sock. I painted in one or two layers. And I layered the hook in black, or not. The black paint ended up being too much for this project (it worked well for both Ms Marvel fist and Shang-Chi rings). The brush left more visible strokes when lit up then I was happy with. The foam brush and old sock were better methods. The one layer of old sock was definitely the lightest and let the most light shine through.
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Going clock wise, this is one layer old sock, two layer old sock, two layer foam brush, one layer foam brush. The picture doesn't quite pick up all the detail you can see in person, but my preference was one layer old sock. I thought, I'll paint it with one layer old sock, finish building it, and then if I want to, I can always add a second layer once everything else is in place.
Before I started the primer or painting, I broke out my Dremel 4000 (
link) and flex shaft (
link) with the sanding head. I then smoothed out the edges from the 90 degree angle of the foam, into the 3-D structure of bone. It took a couple passes, but I smoothed it out nicely. Be warned. When carving out foam it creates a lot of particles in the air. You must wear a proper respirator and eye protection when doing this.
So here's an in-progress shot once I started painting with the old sock:
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And then a more finished painted product.
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I'll save the rest for a Part 2. I have a thin brown suede strap that I'm going to use for the handle to give me something to grip. I've got a pair of very strong rectangular magnets that will allow me to go hands-free. I've got to add the LEDs. Once the magnet and LEDs are in place, then I'll determine whether I want to add a galvanized steel bar to create some rigidity in the hook. And lastly I have the auburn red paint seen in the paint swatches that I'll use for some detailing.
Based on how the project has gone so far, I should be done by the end of the week. I'd say all-in, I'm probably at something like 8-10ish hours. That's so so small compared to the Ms Marvel fist which took months and countless hours to make.