Tie Dye Instructions for Spiral Mickey Shirt

I dyed some more shirts with the Dyson dyes today. This time, I thought to take some photos during the process. I'll post these tomorrow night, after I rinse out the shirts and get some photos of them.

Anyway, most of the colors were really attractive, but a couple were not. The turquoise, pink, and purple were very vibrant. Quite attractive. Red was, well, red. It seemed plenty strong enough. The orange was strong but not a clear, bright orange. The lime green really should be labeled pea soup green. Yuck! The yellow, as I posted the other day, was not the bright lemon yellow pictured on the packet but fit its "Sunflower Yellow" label.

After I experiemented with the yellow dye the other day, I decided to mix these dyes a little stronger than the directions said. Instead of mixing each packet with 4 cups of water, I mixed each with 3 cups. I really soaked the 4 shirts I did and still had a fair amount of dye left.

Cross your fingers for me. I hope these work out. :)
 
I have a couple of questions...
I bought the Tulip kit with 5 colors, but there is no soda ash in it and it does not mention it in the instructions. Do I need to purchase it?
Also, the kit recomends 100% cotton, but I usually buy the Hobby Lobby shirts which are 50/50. Will this make any difference?
Thank you for any help you can give. I am a little nervous about this, but feel much better with the picture instructions!

I used to have a home based T shirt business. Tie dying the shirts as well. I used cold water dyes. The 100% cotton shirts had to be pre rinsed before I Painted them and dyed them. You have to get the sizing out of the fabric. I believe this is why the soak in the soda ash. I had to put reg salt in with the dyes. Helped to intensify the color. And to set the colors, we added washing soda directly to the liquid. (which is what the soda ash probably is.) I used to do it in the washing machine as I had to do so many at a time.(Dyes came from a Co. out of Ca and were environmentally friendly.)Arm and Hammer has a box. It is sold along with the reg washing soaps. Big Yellow box. You probably have walked past it all the time. The tighter the bands, the better the contrast.

LOVE IT !!!! :love: wonderful shirts. They really came out great!! Also, I can't wait to hear all about your trip!!! If that was a pic you took as part of some deal as a Disney Visa Card Holder tell me more please. I didn't know there were any special perks for us card holders other than the lovely disney points that will help pay for my theme park tickets.

http://disneyrewards.disney.go.com/

Hope this helps.
 
I really want to make these for our September trip. I didn't read all the pages yet, but can anyone tell me if the shirts dye better if they are 100% cotton? I think all the shirts they sell at my AC Moore are 50/50. I'll have to search for white tees at this time of year -- they are starting to sell fall clothes everywhere here already!! :confused3 Where did everyone buy their toddler/kid sized white shirts? I'll need a 4T or 5T size for DS. Any ideas? Thanks to everyone who shared their shirts -- they are awesome!
 
I really want to make these for our September trip. I didn't read all the pages yet, but can anyone tell me if the shirts dye better if they are 100% cotton? I think all the shirts they sell at my AC Moore are 50/50. I'll have to search for white tees at this time of year -- they are starting to sell fall clothes everywhere here already!! :confused3 Where did everyone buy their toddler/kid sized white shirts? I'll need a 4T or 5T size for DS. Any ideas? Thanks to everyone who shared their shirts -- they are awesome!

From what I read the 100% give you brighter colors, the 50-50% comes out more pastel.. Someone suggested Target Charokee brand
 

I got my 100% cotton shirts at Old Navy.com. Girls fitted tees and mens 3X plus toddler boy 4T. I'll try and get mine posted. I used the tulip brand and prewashed. No soda ash. I think they came out quite vibrant. I did the sunburst instead of the swirl, but if I was to do it again, I would do the swirl. I think it would be less messy.
 
I finally made my shirts!! They are in the washer for the 4th time...waiting to see if all the excess blue ink came out.

labdogs42 - Where did everyone buy their toddler/kid sized white shirts? I'll need a 4T or 5T size for DS. Any ideas?
I also needed a 5T for my DD - I bought a 100% cotton tee at Walmart, it is their brand. I also bought a Faded Glory 100% cotton fitted tee for my 10-yr-old niece there.
Praise God - I am only doing 2 shirts - do I have to mix the whole bottles? If I do it says to use it within 2 weeks. Unless this gets messed up very badly, I am not planning on doing any more in the near future.
Has anyone tried to mix the soda ash and/or the dye in smaller quantities?
In the meantime, I will be basting the mickey head tonight.

I also took some of the extra powder out of my bottles...DH was the only one that wanted the dark blue. It worked really well.

My suggestion is that you do this outside... I used DD plastic picnic table as work surface (covered in garbage bag) and poured the dye over shirt into grass. My only problem was that the bottom of my feet (which were bare) got to be beautifully dyed and I scrubbed at them for a while to get dye off.

I'll be posting my pictures once the shirts are dry. FYI - I used a bleach pen to accent around the Mickey head since I must not have had the rubber band as tight as it should have. My version seems to look okay, maybe I'll start a new trend with all future shirt makers?!?!:confused3

Mickey, we will be at your house in less than 2 weeks....:banana: :banana:
 
I just got back from Michael's with all the stuff...wish me luck!

We'll try making them this week as our fun summer craft-waiting until the rain lets up so we can work outdoors.
 
Hi!

First off, LisaG- so sorry that I never responded to your post. I just returned from vacation last night. Thanks, Gillian, for answering for me!

Here are my kids with their finished tees, and again with my parents. CarolinaGirl86 made the design for me. Next - the Mickey tees!

DSCF2871.jpg



DSCF2872.jpg
 
For those of you who have used Dharmatrading was the ammount of shirts accurate for the kits. I an dying 20 shirts so I was wondering if the one kit that says about 20 shirts would be enough? There wiill be 8 XL and 8 L kids and 4 med kids . Would there be enough dye for all of these? I am concerned after seeing that most other companys are way off of the ammount of shirts they say they can dye. Thanks any advice would be appreciated
Jenketeer
 
Soda Ash question.....after I soak the shirts in soda ash, do I wash them again or begin dying? The package doesn't say! TIA!
 
Here they are:
PICT0003.jpg


I discovered that my shirt was 100% cotton and everyone else's was 50/50, so I could directly compare the two types. I didn't do it on purpose, when I unwrapped mine I was like, wow, what did I do? It wasn't until I looked at all the tags did I realize. Here's why the cotton is so much better-yeah, the colors are a little brighter (I used the tulip pink/yellow/turquoise kit), but the edges are SO much crisper and better defined on the cotton t-shirt. The 50/50's look sort of smeary and blurry. This is my own (kept to myself) opinion, the kids went crazy for them and my husband was late for work because he wanted to see what his looked like.

Three things I'll do next time:

1. 100% cotton shirts,

2. Prewash and preshrink in hot water, won't dry them.

2. Soak in soda ash (I did this time as well), but let shirts get much dryer after the soaking-I think that some parts of the shirt didn't absorb or "suck up" the dye as well because they were sorta soggy.

A good tip that was a happy accident for my shirt: I had originally made my mickey head yellow and then got to page 10 or so on this thread (re-reading to see if I missed anything), and saw how somebody else's yellow mickey head didn't show up well, so I ran upstairs (about an hour later) fished the remnants of the blue dye out of the trash, and turned my mickey head green. It didn't go as dark as my husband's when it was wet (it says the dye starts to lose power in 30 minutes) but what was awesome was that there's this cool corona around the edge in yellow, see:

PICT0004.jpg


That's the all cotton one.

All in all, an immensely enjoyable craft and we're going to do it again in a few months.

Look for us in disney...
 
Anyone have the problem of all the excess dye not rinsing out? I've tried washing 4 times, soaking in hot water, etc. but the blue & purple dye just keeps bleeding out of the shirt. Lightly tints the water. I'm afraid to wear them without all the excess out and ruining shorts or dying the wearer's skin.
:eek: :eek:
 
HI all. I got all my stuff yesterday and plan to start next week. I have a question, after we dye them, wrap and then when we head to the rinse part....do I need to rinse all 5 one at a time or so I put them all in the washer at the same time? Thanks!

Kickapoo Joie Juice, your shirts look great. What did you use as your template for the Mickey head? Thats the last thing I need to find so I can trace it on the shirts.
 
Anyone have the problem of all the excess dye not rinsing out? I've tried washing 4 times, soaking in hot water, etc. but the blue & purple dye just keeps bleeding out of the shirt. Lightly tints the water. I'm afraid to wear them without all the excess out and ruining shorts or dying the wearer's skin.
:eek: :eek:

I'm sorry that you're having this problem - I didn't run into this. (I used the Jacquard kit.) You can try soaking the shirts in salt water - salt also helps to set color. What an awful thing to have happen! :grouphug:

mom2mykids - when I made my three shirts, I just rinsed them one at a time. I figured that after 24 hours it wouldn't matter if they waited a bit longer! I did a first rinse before taking out the rubber bands, then continued as I removed them. After I rinsed them enough so the water ran clear I just moved onto the next one. Then I popped them in the washer.

Hope this helps!
 
I found a template on how to draw mickey online and then photoshopped it until I had this:

draw-mickey-mouse-4.gif


I wanted the ears a little farther apart since the dye soaks together.

For setting dye, hmm, maybe google it? I also ironed mine with starch on the highest heat since I know heat sets stains, so why not dye?
 
I found this site and copied this:http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/FAQ/settingdye.shtml

FAQ: Is there any way to "set" dye in purchased clothing or fabric?
How can I set the dye in the clothes I just bought?

The problem with this question is that you don't know what dye was used, when you buy clothing. A treatment that will help set acid dyes will tend to strip off fiber reactive dyes, while the carbonate that will set fiber reactive dyes won't do any good for union dyes. You must match such chemical treatments to the exact dye type that was used, for acceptable results. Furthermore, such treatments are best used at the time of dyeing, rather than much later.

Vinegar is not the answer!
Many people who know nothing about this subject recommend 'setting' dye in cotton clothing with vinegar. In fact, vinegar can do nothing useful for cotton dyes. Vinegar will help set some acid dyes, but only if applied while it is gradually heated to a simmer (generally in the presence of salt), solely in cases in which this necessary part of acid dyeing was omitted; acid dyes are used on silk, wool, or nylon, but never cotton.
Salt won't do it, either
Salt can be useful in dyeing, by encouraging the fiber not to repel the dye, or by making the dye less soluble, but it will not itself fix the dye to the fiber. Washing your garment with salt won't hurt it, but it also will not help. The extra washing will help to remove the dye only because it's another run through the washer, which can help to remove excess dye.
Washing Out Excess Dye
In some cases, the clothing may be dyed correctly, and also have excess dye in it. This is true of fabrics dyed with fiber reactive dye that have not been washed adequately. In such cases, the simplest solution is to simply go ahead and wash - repeatedly. The test for whether all excess dye has been removed is simple: dampen the dyed item and iron it dry, while pressing it against a bit of white fabric. If the undyed fabric stays white, the dyed fabric (or yarn) can be trusted. Normally, the most popular fiber reactive dye, Procion MX type dye, requires at least one washing in cold water (without detergent, unless it's Synthrapol), followed by at least two washings in hot water, WITH detergent, to remove the last bits of unattached dye. Hot water is much more efficient than warm water at removing the last bits of unattached dye.
Synthrapol is a special detergent designed for washing out excess dye.


Special detergents for washing out dye
The dyer's detergent Synthrapol SP is often recommended, as it was formulated specifically for the purpose of washing out dye, and moreover lacks the high pH that can damage silk and wool, but there is some disagreement as to how strictly necessary it is. In any case, Synthrapol, like any detergent, cannot fix any dye into fabric; what it does is wash out excess unattached dye.
Many quilters swear by the use of pure sodium dodecylsulfate (SDS, also known as sodium lauryl sulfate, a popular shampoo ingredient), which is sold by feedstores under the name of Orvus, for the purpose of washing horses. Others feel that ordinary laundry detergent is adequate. Dye is always most easily washed out with hot water, though the first washing after dyeing should always be done in cool water, and loosely attached dyes such as direct dye (found, for example, in Rit brand dye and other all-purpose dyes) must never be washed in hot water.

True Dye Fixatives, an all-purpose solution
There is only one type of product that you can buy that will actually set dye regardless of its type. A product called Retayne, sold by local quilter's supply shops as well as by most mail-order dye supply houses (see Sources for Dyeing Supplies),
Retayne and other commercial dye fixatives are the only real solution to commercial clothing that bleeds.
is recommended for fixing dyes in commercially purchased cotton fabrics or clothing to prevent color bleeding during washing. This product is a cationic bulking agent, which acts to seal in the dye by physical means, rather than the chemical bonds which are so dependant on the type of dye. It seems that the particles of Retayne adhere to the dye molecules, effectively making them larger, so they do not come out of the fabric as easily. Note that Retayne is washed in as a laundry additive, and thus can be used only on things that can be immersed at least once without the dye immediately floating off and ruining other parts of the same item. Retayne may be removed by washing with overly hot water, and thus treated items must be washed in cool water. (Unfortunately, the one situation Retayne cannot help with is the dry crocking of indigo, in which improperly applied dye rubs off of the fabric even when dry.)
 














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