Victoria and Albert's - The Chef's Table, Part II
Where were we before the group discussion turned to bizarre childhood food habits? For what it's worth, I never went anywhere near a farm growing up as a child but Grimace once told me that I had a fondness for dog biscuits, which is decidedly odd because we never had a dog...
Oh well, look at how far I've come since then!
Anyway, as I previously mentioned, this is apt to get a little sloppy since Jay and I didn't always have the same food. But bear with us...I think you'll be pleased with the outcome, or at least with the pictures.
One of things that was really cool about the Chef's Table was that the sommelier was choosing wines to compliment each course that Chef Scott was preparing for us, but he was also taking our personal likes and dislikes into account. His name is Israel Perez and he's also the restaurant Maitre' de, and I took the opportunity to mention that I really didn't like strong red wines because the sulfites give me a headache. But, to make things more interesting, I had to tell him that I don't care much for really sweet wines, either.
"Ah," he said with a small smile. "A challenge!"
I am so glad that I told him this because he gave me some wonderful alternatives to try during the evening, including that Rosa Regale that we all love so much!
I strongly encourage you to make your wine likes and dislikes known whether you are at the Chef's Table or having dinner in the dining room - either way you're paying for this experience...you might as well enjoy it!
Course I (Brenda)
Dungeness and King Crab with Spring Asparagus and Calvisius Caviar
Wine pairing: Sella & Mosca La Cala Vermentino, Sardegna 2004
DING DING DING!!! We have a winner! I love crab, especially when I don't have to crack open the claws to get to the good stuff, although I do admit to a certain prehistoric Cro-Magnon satisfaction in breaking apart a crab leg, sucking out the sweet, succulent meat inside, and brandishing the knuckles threateningly at anyone else at the table who may be considering a raid on my crab stash...and then I like to... oh, uh ...too much information, right.
Ahem...as I was saying, on the left you will see a hunk, a hunk of tasty crab... (Get it? It's
King crab

) ... surrounded by a small swirl of creamy butter sauce topped with what looks like a single stalk of ragweed. The crab and the sauce were wonderful, and I tried some with a scoop of the caviar in the middle of the plate ... that kind of incredible taste combination is probably illegal in 37 states.
The asparagus was perfectly cooked, tender and lightly seasoned; it also tasted quite good with the cream sauce. On the right is the Dungeness crabbie patty wearing a leafy green hat accented with a single, vivid red petal. This was also very good, a little more sweet, but excellent and really tasty with the caviar clump.
Wondering about the caviar? So was I. Calvisius Caviar is from Italy - white sturgeon are farm raised in clean, spring-fed pools and their roe are large and dark. The flavor was rich and a little salty, but overall the taste was very nice and I really enjoyed it with both crab selections and by itself.
As for the wine, it was also from Italy - Sardinia - and it is made from the Vermentino grape. This is considered an exceptional choice to accompany seafood and shellfish due to the subtle presence of a natural marine salinity in the wine. **I am not smart enough about wine to know this - this information is coming from my wine notes**
I am a huge fan of white wines, especially Pinot Grigios and Pinot Noirs, and this wine was fabulous - light and crisp with a full flavor and just a bit of an underlying bite to it.
Course I (Jason)
Seared Colorado Buffalo Tenderloin, Braised Fennel, Radishes, and Satsuma Tangerine Vinaigrette
Wine pairing: Cantina Del Taburno Falanghina, Campania 2005
I'm not going to lie to you... Jason had to work late tonight and is not available for comment. But don't worry, I feel comfortable putting words in his mouth and I don't think he'll mind. If he does, we'll come back and let him editorialize to his heart's content.
For me, personally, buffalo is too gamey. It's not that I don't want my meat to taste like meat, but I don't want it to taste like the Great Plains, either. I love the presentation, though... the color is gorgeous and those Tangerine Vinaigrette sperms are a true inspiration.
Jason really enjoyed this dish - the buffalo was well prepared, similar to "medium" in steak grilling terms, and the garnishments made it seem as if each piece of buffalo tenderloin was served with a miniature salad. As for the Tangerine sperm, Jay said that their presence just proves that this was a man's dish!
The wine was a very tasty, full-bodied Italian white with underlying fruit flavors, especially pear, and it did have some acidity to it. We were both a little surprised to see the buffalo paired with a white, but Jay thought it worked really well.
Course II (Brenda & Jason)
Ivory King Salmon with Mustard Greens, Sauce Soubise, and Ramp Pesto
Wine Pairing: Pere' & Fils Christian Moreau Chablis 2004
Don't get confused... we did not share this dish, we were each given one of our own. The better to stuff you with, my dear.
Time for some more honesty...I'm not a big fan of salmon unless it's really thinly sliced and served chilled with marscapone cheese. Jay, on the other hand, is salmon-man... if he were a balding, half-blind, sanctimonious politician I'd call him Salmon P. Surname...

(sorry, that was a Civil War joke that was about as funny as a screen door on a submarine). But this salmon was excellent - milder and more delicate than most salmon fillets, it also had a very rich taste. Chef Scott came out to fishmonger with us for a few minutes and that's when we found out that the ivory salmon are actually pretty rare, accounting for about 5% of the total king salmon population. This was also when he started talking up the Copper River Salmon over at Artist Point - according to him the Copper River is a true delicacy. We'll never know, but I'm not bitter or anything.
I was surprised by just how much I liked this salmon and I really liked nibbling on the little carrots that came with it. What I liked less was the Sauce Soubise, which is a white onion sauce, and the baby onions that were co-mingling with my carrots.
The wine, by the way, was excellent. A chablis from Burgundy, France (and I loves me the white wines from Burgundy) this had a strong fruit scent and flavor - I recall hints of apple and lemon. Yummy!!!
I must stop for now... I hope this will hold you over for another day or two. Thanks for reading!
