Tell me what you think

[jimim]

So I never take pics on rides when at Disney, but bought the new Sigma 35mm art series for this past Oct trip. Yes I'm just getting around to looking at my pics. I have been wicked busy this winter finishing my basement. So I have no idea if these are good or not. What would you have maybe done diff? Should I be editing these out diff to get a certain look to them? I didn't really do anything to them except noise reduction, some decreased clarity to smooth it out a bit more. I jumped up the exposure a bit to try and bring out more detail. I lowered my highlights a bit to get the harsher light off certain areas of the pic. I bit of edge sharpening. I didn't touch color balance cause to tell you the truth I think it would ruin the look.

So what else do you guys do?

Oh and I didn't have my 35mm 1.4 on. these are with my canon 24-70mm 2.8 II

When I have my sigma on should i be more open? I got the speed I needed to prevent shake. I shot at 200 ISO and it was workable. If I open up the lens more it will allow me to shoot at a lower ISO but will it do anything for my overall final pic for bringing out more detail?

I'm kinda lost. . .

Thanks!


IMG_5180 by jimim, on Flickr


IMG_5174 by jimim, on Flickr


IMG_5172 by jimim, on Flickr


IMG_5167 by jimim, on Flickr


IMG_5158 by jimim, on Flickr

 

[fractal]

They look pretty dammned good to me.

 

[nbaresejr]

I dont shoot dark rides either so I may be off base with what I am going to say. To me they look underexposed. I could be off base on this but that is my view

 

[SrisonS]

They look good to me as well. I'd maybe open the shadows some (or 'fill light'); and maybe bump exposure up a tiny bit more. Other than that; nice work!!!!

 

[photo_chick]

They look good to me. The only things I'd change are in camera. I'd probably bump the exposure up 1/2 to a whole stop and I'd work on the point of focus because the middle three are a little off. But those are nit picky things that are only going to make a difference to the tech obsessive like me.

 

[traylorc]

I agree with Danielle...I would increase the exposure by 1/2 - 1 full stop. But overall I think you did a good job.

The Sigma 35mm is a very good lens...besides allowing more light the lens itself is tack sharp. That being said...you have to remember the trade off regarding shooting the Sigma wide open. Wide open shooting means a very thin depth of field. Combine shooting wide open with being on a moving ride and you may find yourself with a number of out of focus shots. Increasing your shutter speed will help, but nonetheless even the slightest of bumps can ruin your shot when shooting wide open.

When it comes to dark ride shooting I believe in a "spray and pray" approach. Take multiple shots and increase your chances of getting some keepers.

 

[jimim]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

I upped the exposure .9 for each in lightroom. Here is a question cause I don't understand. Is their a diff between upping the exposure in camera vs after in lightroom? Also if I was more open say with my sigma would that be the same as upping the exposure at 2.8 like I shot this time? Also if I upped the exposure to say 1/2 to be safe how would I know if that's enough cause u really only get one chance on the ride to get that shot. Unless when I go again in April I stay at 2.8 and up the exposure and see how I do this time? I guess this is an experience by experience thing to see how I grow and progress over the years which can be fun!

So upping the shadows and fill light. I played with this, but I didn't know where to go with it? How much do u guys bring out. I guess it's a personal preference?

D, about the focus points. I hear you with that one. It was so hard with the shots where u circle around like the boat scene or Ursula cause as soon as I moved my point I was needing a new one! The fish and Ariel were easier cause of how u pan in the ride.

Oh and I used spot vs the other settings for movement should I have been on servo maybe. I swear I never get good focus with servo. Never. Is it my tech maybe. Maybe I just don't know how to use it properly.

 

[jimim]

I agree with Danielle...I would increase the exposure by 1/2 - 1 full stop. But overall I think you did a good job. The Sigma 35mm is a very good lens...besides allowing more light the lens itself is tack sharp. That being said...you have to remember the trade off regarding shooting the Sigma wide open. Wide open shooting means a very thin depth of field. Combine shooting wide open with being on a moving ride and you may find yourself with a number of out of focus shots. Increasing your shutter speed will help, but nonetheless even the slightest of bumps can ruin your shot when shooting wide open. When it comes to dark ride shooting I believe in a "spray and pray" approach. Take multiple shots and increase your chances of getting some keepers.

I wanted to pull this out separate. I think that's why I kept the canon on. I always try to get myself as closed down as possible for that reason. I know that let's in even less light so the reason why I should have bumped up my exposure right like u and Danielle both said? I figured depth of field would be more diff cause even when I'm not moving shooting a flower wide open it's tough!

Should I be shooting on servo vs spot? Also any suggestions for proper use of servo. Just keep my figure half down or I use rear focus and my shutter for just the shutter. So keep it down and just snap off as I want?

It is pretty fun shooting in the dark. Was a neat experience.

Jim

 

[jimim]

Oh last thing. Those were shot at ISO 2000. U think I over did the noise reduction? Too much negative clarity applied? Should I have shot at a lower ISO and shot at a slower shutter speed to allow in more light? But then I might get blur? So whould that be the reason to up my exposure? If I upped exposure I would get more light, but if I then lowered my ISO would I have just traded off what I just did?

Follow?

 

[photo_chick]

There is a big difference between increasing the exposure in camera vs. in Lightroom. In camera actually captures a brighter exposure from the start and that can mean more details. Bumping up in Lightroom, or other editing software, means more noise. A lot more than you'd get in camera, even if you have to bump up the ISO in camera. You just have to be aware of the bright spots in the scene and make sure you don't blow them out badly. The only one of your shots in danger of that is the one with Eric and Ariel in the boat.

Also... there's a practice people refer to as ETTR. This is Expose To The Right. It means you slightly over expose everything just a tad. Not enough to blow things out, but enough to be sure you don't have to bump it up in post. It's always preferable to slide the exposure down rather than up in editing. And bringing it down in editing can help kill shadow noise in an image and lessen the need for noise reduction.

 

[jimim]

There is a big difference between increasing the exposure in camera vs. in Lightroom. In camera actually captures a brighter exposure from the start and that can mean more details. Bumping up in Lightroom, or other editing software, means more noise. A lot more than you'd get in camera, even if you have to bump up the ISO in camera. You just have to be aware of the bright spots in the scene and make sure you don't blow them out badly. The only one of your shots in danger of that is the one with Eric and Ariel in the boat. Also... there's a practice people refer to as ETTR. This is Expose To The Right. It means you slightly over expose everything just a tad. Not enough to blow things out, but enough to be sure you don't have to bump it up in post. It's always preferable to slide the exposure down rather than up in editing. And bringing it down in editing can help kill shadow noise in an image and lessen the need for noise reduction.

Thanks Danielle that all makes good sense. I knew about the exposing to the right thing a bit bit in a dark ride how do you tell if u need more exposure when reviewing real quick. Ur histogram is already way to the left cause of how dark the scene is?

Thanks so much for the help!

Sent from my iPhone using DISBoards

 

[Gianna'sPapa]

While I agree they are a little underexposed if your goal was to expose the whole frame. However, I really like the look of the images. Being underexposed drew my attention directly to the story of the images. You did with light (maybe accidentally) what we try to do on our composition using things like the rule of thirds. Your technique (whether accidentally or not) has given me some ideas when I return to WDW for shooting the dark rides differently than I have in the past. It is interesting to hear everyone's opinions and ideas.

 

[photo_chick]

Thanks Danielle that all makes good sense. I knew about the exposing to the right thing a bit bit in a dark ride how do you tell if u need more exposure when reviewing real quick. Ur histogram is already way to the left cause of how dark the scene is?

Thanks so much for the help!

Sent from my iPhone using DISBoards

I've found it's really a matter of learning what the histogram should look like for a given scene exposed the way I want it. That just took a lot of taking pictures and looking at the histograms of what I felt was exposed where I wanted it. I've also gotten to the point with my camera that I know where I want the exposure to fall on the meter for a given scene which helps a lot. Bracketing helps if you don't yet have a solid feel for where you want the exposure to fall. I still bracket often just to be safe.

 

[jimim]

While I agree they are a little underexposed if your goal was to expose the whole frame. However, I really like the look of the images. Being underexposed drew my attention directly to the story of the images. You did with light (maybe accidentally) what we try to do on our composition using things like the rule of thirds. Your technique (whether accidentally or not) has given me some ideas when I return to WDW for shooting the dark rides differently than I have in the past. It is interesting to hear everyone's opinions and ideas.

Hi! This is what I was thinking when I took them bit I didn't know if it was right. When I edited them out I didn't touch the shadows. When I did the noise was horrible but I didn't know if what I took was proper.

I wasn't even going to try to get a proper composition with rules of third! Lol. I was worried about just getting focus! Lol. Next trip now that I got a bunch of good tips I will try to get some more creative compositions!

Thanks for the compliment!

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[jimim]

I've found it's really a matter of learning what the histogram should look like for a given scene exposed the way I want it. That just took a lot of taking pictures and looking at the histograms of what I felt was exposed where I wanted it. I've also gotten to the point with my camera that I know where I want the exposure to fall on the meter for a given scene which helps a lot. Bracketing helps if you don't yet have a solid feel for where you want the exposure to fall. I still bracket often just to be safe.

That's actually a really good idea. I never thought of bracketing when on a ride. That way I could spray and pray for a shot but have the 3 diff focuses I would want to try.

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[SkaGoat]

And since you're shooting with a 7D you have the frame rate to bracket easily.

I personally would try to expose them a little brighter, but remember to keep the shutter speed high enough that you still get a sharp picture. I personally would rather a noisy, but sharp photograph instead of a noise free, but blurry photo.

Frankly, I find the noise pretty tolerable on my 7D until I get to a iso of 3200. I also try to ETTR as much as possible because the 7D is not good when it comes to shadow details.

This is a dumb question, but you are shooting RAW right?

 

[jimim]

And since you're shooting with a 7D you have the frame rate to bracket easily. I personally would try to expose them a little brighter, but remember to keep the shutter speed high enough that you still get a sharp picture. I personally would rather a noisy, but sharp photograph instead of a noise free, but blurry photo. Frankly, I find the noise pretty tolerable on my 7D until I get to a iso of 3200. I also try to ETTR as much as possible because the 7D is not good when it comes to shadow details. This is a dumb question, but you are shooting RAW right?

Thanks for the info. I have to play with my bracketing a bit before this trip. I haven't used it in a while. Stupid question. U can't bracket while in manual right? I tend to shoot manual mostly anymore with flash but without flash like in a ride I prob used av. I have to look again. Don't remember.

Yup. Only shoot raw anymore. Learned that after my for first trip with my 7d a bunch of years ago.

I don't think I ever went above 2000 with it until my daughters first Xmas program this year but I was too far back to get anything worth while. All the other parents were fighting for close spots and in a kinda sit back kinda guy. That was my first experience with a kids show. Kinda crazy experience.

Anyway. Sorry I shot off target there! Lol

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[SkaGoat]

Thanks for the info. I have to play with my bracketing a bit before this trip. I haven't used it in a while. Stupid question. U can't bracket while in manual right? I tend to shoot manual mostly anymore with flash but without flash like in a ride I prob used av. I have to look again. Don't remember.

Yup. Only shoot raw anymore. Learned that after my for first trip with my 7d a bunch of years ago.

I don't think I ever went above 2000 with it until my daughters first Xmas program this year but I was too far back to get anything worth while. All the other parents were fighting for close spots and in a kinda sit back kinda guy. That was my first experience with a kids show. Kinda crazy experience.

Anyway. Sorry I shot off target there! Lol

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I was playing around today, you can use the Auto bracketing in M mode. Looks like it adjusts shutter speed to underexpose and overexpose.

 

[photo_chick]

I was playing around today, you can use the Auto bracketing in M mode. Looks like it adjusts shutter speed to underexpose and overexpose.

If I'm using auto bracket I tend to use Av or Tv mode. In Av it will change the shutter speed, Tv the aperture.

 

[SkaGoat]

If I'm using auto bracket I tend to use Av or Tv mode. In Av it will change the shutter speed, Tv the aperture.

sure, but he asked if he could use Auto Bracket in M.

It all depends on what you're shooting, some people almost never use M, some people only use M. I know personally I use Av 95% of the time.