Teach me how to get the best deal on a new car

tarheel618

DIS Veteran
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Jan 4, 2007
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My car will be paid off in 6 months and at that time we will need to replace my husbands 13 year old truck. We are hoping it will make it another 6 months.

We want to make a good budget purchase when replacing his truck. We are looking for another truck preferably a Nissian Frontier or Toyota Tacoma.

We are open to new with great financing or used with low mileage.

So tell me how to get the best deal.
 
if you are not comfortable negotiating your own deal, i would use costco's auto buying service or something like that.
 
We did a lot of research and used TrueCar's information to gauge what the best price was in our area. We reached out to the Internet Sales reps at dealers and worked with them instead of the floor salesmen.
 
Check online sites like Edmunds.com to find the pricing and incentives currently available for the vehicles you are interested in. It shows the MSRP, invoice price, and the true market value (what is commonly paid in your area for that vehicle). You can "build your own" and see the price for the exact options you want. This way you have an idea what others are paying, how much wiggle room the dealer has, and what incentives/rebates you qualify for. You can also get an idea of the value of any trade-in.

I like to visit the dealerships so I can look at what they have on the lot and with what options, and check out the window stickers, so I can compare it with what I learned online. Also this allows you to see if the dealer is one that has add-ons built into the prices. Over the years I have seen some automatically add to each vehicle on the lot things like paint protectant, pin stripes, weather protection packages, etc. I know one dealer in my area has an extra $1500 in such dealer installed options on every vehicle on the lot.

As mentioned by a previous poster above, if you don't like negotiating, there are some buying services through various places (I know even my insurance company has one). And some dealers by me are "no haggle" now and show the price they want and that is it. If you don't like visiting lots, or they are not close by, dealers in my area have online sales and will give you the price online. If you strike a deal only then do you actually have to visit the dealer to complete the paperwork.
 

My dad is going through this now and using the advice from his cousin who before retiring did financing at a car dealership. First note: Never pay sticker price, even at a no haggle place(like Auto Nation), FYI They still have discounts they can apply. Always walk away tell them you need time to think about it, My dad just got an offer 2 days after he left the dealership where they dropped the price of his lease over $60.00 a month, buy them discounting the price of the car further. It is called Holdback in the industry. Basically for each car sold the dealership gets money from the car manufacturer. Also don't think all dealerships are equal. If you have several in your area, visit each one and shop around.

The sales person will try to pressure you to buy then and there, but did you buy a house then and there without looking around. A car is the second biggest purchase one can make after a house, so make sure to do the research as pp stated and go in with the ability to walk out.

Both the Nissan and the Toyota are great trucks and you really can't go wrong with either. Good Luck and remember have fun with it, make it a game to get the best deal and pit the dealerships against each other to see who will win your business.
 
When we last bought a new car, I did all of my negotiating via email. I was open with the various dealers (between 3-4) about what others were offering and only went in once we basically had a deal in writing. We bought new because the car we wanted was so minimally discounted used and we wanted the low interest rates offered by the dealer. We are about to pay off said car a year early.
 
Do NOT buy a new car if you want a "deal"!!! You are automatically paying for depreciation.

My advice, find a used car you can pay cash for. Like anything, you are paying more if you finance. A car 2-3 years old is still very nice, esp if you get a certified used car. These days you can use the internet and search the country for the model/year/price you want. We bought a car 1,000 miles away and paid $300 for them to ship it to our local dealer. Yes, it was $300, but we paid $6,000 less then any of the local cars.
 
Consumer reports offers printout of the wholesale price of new cars.
Wholesale is what the car actually cost the dealer, AFTER they have sold the car. Dealer invoice is what they paid for the car BEFORE after sale incentives. Usually the automaker will refund 3% of the dealer invoice when the car is actually sold to the consumer. There can be other incentives......$1,000 back if they sell a certain number of cars in a month.
A friend is business manager at a major new import dealership. She says it's not unusual for them to only "make" $25 on a $50,000 new car sale, but they may get $1,500 with that 3% hold back, and hundreds more depending on what incentives are in place.
Used cars are interesting. While consumers can save money by buying used, the markup on a used car is much higher than on a new car. Often by thousands. So you not only have to look at the condition of a used car, but figure out what it is really worth.
 
I researched an found the car I was i wantedto purchase. I found a dealership with the color, upgrades etc. I wanted. I walked in and after a test drive I sat with the sales guy. I told them I would pay x amount with x down payment and needed payments under x. I spent some time with them and they tried to play games with me. I left and told them to call me when they figured it out. They called the next day and offered me everything I asked for...pretty easy.
My hubs researched his car and found the coor etc he wanted. He emailed the managers in the area and said here is what I want and my terms...who wants to sell me a car. He was called a few days later with everything he asked for.


Information is key...be prepared with all your terms.
 
The first step is to figure out what you really want. Make sure you really research things like reliability and repair costs. Those are things that people don't think about until it's too late.

Then you need to learn what is a fair price for the car you want. Don't think you're going to get a $15,000 car for $10,000. It's not going to happen.
 
What I do is go drive the cars I am interested and choose one and know what I want on and in it and what color exterior and interior. I went with Toyota this last time so I checked the price at carmax in Kenosha who sell new Toyotas and found their no haggle price is the same as invoice for the dealers. With that knowledge I called two dealers closest to me and pitted them against each other by going back and forth with the price offered by the other. Basically since they had to order what I wanted because the color combo and extras was not available on any lot in America I ended up at invoice price, or the same as the Carmax no haggle price. With Toyota and Nissan you will realize that they keep their price so well that new with no miles, the warranty, and the free 2 year maintenance is going to be your best buy. Oh and I feel most comfy extending my warranty since it is only 3 years on Toyota, even though I have never needed it with Toyota but I don't want to chance paying repair bills and a payment. Toyota offers a platinum 7 year 75,000 or 10 year 100,000 and I found the dealer wanted to charge me double what it actually cost. I called Carmax that sells new Toyotas in WI and got their quote of half the price and called the warranty guy at the dealer back and told him if he couldn't match it that the deal was off and he miraculously put in his employee number and found he could give it to me at that price. Good luck and enjoy.
 
Know the make and model of the vehicle you want before you go (or pick 2 or 3). (If you don't know what you want and want to go to the lots, then do that BUT NOT to buy- just to figure out what you want). Then, run them through Edmunds and a couple of the other car pricing websites on the internet. They will show the invoice price, what people typically pay in your area, and the MSRP. If you are looking at new cars, they should show what incentives are available in your area, and if not the website for the make of vehicle most likely will have that information. If you are looking at a new car and there are no incentives, don't expect to pay invoice because the dealership must make some sort of profit. I usually shoot for a final price of $1000 over invoice if there are no incentives even if that is lower than what it shows people are paying in that area. (I won't ever go more than $1,500 over invoice even if I love the car, and I have occasionally got it down to $500 or $750 over invoice). If they won't sell it to you for the price you want to pay then walk out. Chances are another dealership will sell it to you for that price and if that is the only dealership of that price in the area- just tell them you are going to go to another city (I used a dealership about 2 hours away) and they will get it for that price. I had them calling me less than an hour after I left the dealership telling me I could have it for the price I wanted to pay. Typically, I don't even have to leave the dealership for the price I want. I have negotiated cars for other family members and friends too. Never let them pull the "What do you want your payment to be" and they will get it set up that way trick--- you want to negotiate the actual price of the car and go from there. If you are financing- check with your bank (or others with lower rates) and see if you can get pre-approved. You are better off financing through your own bank than letting the dealership find your financing usually. Remember- they are trying to find a way to make money off of you any way they can. Some of the financing companies are actually related to the dealers. Some of them around here, even though they may have a completely different name, are actually created and owned by the same people that own the dealership.

If you are buying used, take the same measures as above regarding picking the potential make and models you are interested in, figure out the price you are willing to pay, and if you can get pre-approved financing set up before you ever walk into the dealership. When you do the internet pricing- and also run it with different mileage so you know what the different prices would be based on different mileage on the cars. Instead of invoice, that will have trade in, what people in your area pay, and retail. Again, you want to shoot for something less than what people pay in your area but anything around that amount is not too bad. You don't want to pay retail. The best thing you can do to negotiate either a new or used vehicle is to know the value and what you are willing to pay before you ever walk into the dealership.

Also, many dealerships now have their used and new inventory listed and searchable on the internet. You should look at that before you ever hit the dealership. Many have an internet sales force and you can negotiate a tentative price before you ever get there, then you go out and look at the car and if you like it you pay the price you negotiated online. I have done that for a family member before and it worked out well. You often can get a really good price that way because they want to get you there- they may try to upsell you when you get there, but be firm on what you want and what you will pay. Be cautious of a dealership that when you gets there can't seem to find the car you told them you were interested in, or claims it was just sold. That can be a bait and switch deal. Not all dealerships are created equal-- some are more honest than others.

It doesn't sound like you will have much of a trade in, but if there is a trade in- you want to price it out on Edmunds as well and know your trade in value. They like to pull the trick of giving you a good price on the car, but then giving you less on the trade in so you make more of a profit. I always tell them that I haven't decided whether I am going to trade in my car and don't give it to them to price it, until I have a firm price on the car I am going to buy. After that, we negotiate on the trade in value. I have threatened to walk out on a poor trade in value before too- they may act like they aren't going to go up-- but they will.

Good luck! It is all about knowing what you want, knowing what you are willing to pay and the fair price , and standing firm until you get what you want! The salesmen who have been at it awhile will quickly realize whether you are someone they can work over and make more money out of, or whether you are someone who has done your research and are not going to fall for the tricks of the trade. A good reputable salesman in my experience is typically not that hard to deal with in getting the right price when they respect you. If you have someone that is trying to work you over, either go to another dealership, or if that is the only dealership in town for that make or if you are set on a specific car there, then talk to a manager and ask for another salesman. I had to do that once, and they were accommodating and they gave me an experienced salesman who gave me respect and what I wanted. That young salesmen kept insisting I negotiate through payment price and insisting that I really wanted to get my financing through them even though I told him no- then when I wouldn't do what he wanted he insisted on quoting price far above the retail- even after I told him I wasn't going to sit there and negotiate for hours, and I knew what a fair price was and that price was ridiculously high. There is really high turnover of car salesman- they have some young newbies who will try to mess with you even when you know your stuff. If a salesman is not giving you respect and is playing games, then don't deal with them and give them the commission. There are good respectable (as far as car salesmen go) salesmen out there, don't get stuck with a bad apple! If they tell you they will not sell it to you for that price, then walk out.
 
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