Polarizing Filter

[NateNLogansDad]

I read somewhere that the linear ones will take away the ability to auto focus, is there any truth to that?

 

[MarkBarbieri]

I read somewhere that the linear ones will take away the ability to auto focus, is there any truth to that?

Yes. Split beam autofocus systems don't do well with polarized light. A circular polarizer works by polarizing the light (filtering out all of the light not in a particular orientation) and then rescrambling the remaining light.

 

[ssanders79]

I've been using my circular polarizer the last few days and it has made a world of difference especially around water. It also does a good job of bring out the slight variations in the clouds.

 

[medicjch]

Thanks for the help!

 

[NateNLogansDad]

One drawback to a polarizer is that it cuts out about 1.5 stops of light, so you will have a lower shutter speed or need to use a higher ISO or lower f-stop. They also require that you rotate them to get the best effect.

Is this a standard or do some take away more/less light than that? I thought I read something about +9 and what not but I could totally be mistaken.

What do you look at when purchasing a polarizer?

 

[medicjch]

Any particular brand recommendations? I probably don't want to buy something at the high end, but I don't want to get a crappy one either.

 

[ssanders79]

I bought mine, Quantary 52mm Circular Polarizing Glass Filter, used from B&H. I stayed far away from the high end as I just wanted to get one and see what it would do for me. I only paid $10 with shipping. It might be a bargan basement filter, but I am quite happy with the results so far.

 

[disneyboy2003]

Is this a standard or do some take away more/less light than that? I thought I read something about +9 and what not but I could totally be mistaken.

What do you look at when purchasing a polarizer?

I thought that was pretty standard that polarizers make you lose 1 to 2 stops of light.

A couple things I look for in filters. Look for a filter that's multi-coated. This helps to minimize reflection at the filter surfaces, which reduces flare and ghosting. Don't go for filters that have zero coating.

The other thing I look for is a filter that's thin / slim. This is especially important if you're using a filter for wide-angle lenses (although you probably shouldn't be using a polarizing filter on very wide-angle lenses...see MarkBarbieri's post above). A thin filter will help to avoid vignetting (darkening) at the edges of the photo. Having a thin / slim filter is less important if you're using it for normal or telephoto lenses.

And, as mentioned previously, you'll want to get a circular polarizer for your dSLR, NOT a linear polarizer. Your dSLR's autofocus system won't work if you use a linear polarizer.

Any particular brand recommendations? I probably don't want to buy something at the high end, but I don't want to get a crappy one either.

I think B+W and Hoya are the big names in filters. Singh-Ray and Tiffen are pretty big, too.

 

[NateNLogansDad]

Say you're walking around the parks, it's a nice day, and all you want to do it take pictures outdoors. Is there any time you would want to take the filter off?


What about in the shade?

Would it reduce the effect from shadows at all if, let's say, you were shooting a parade and they were passing under a tree and part of the float/ characters where in the shade?

 

[VVFF]

Say you're walking around the parks, it's a nice day, and all you want to do it take pictures outdoors. Is there any time you would want to take the filter off?


What about in the shade?

Would it reduce the effect from shadows at all if, let's say, you were shooting a parade and they were passing under a tree and part of the float/ characters where in the shade?

If it gets very cloudy, if it gets to be evening and shutter speeds become an issue, if you go inside, basically any time shutter speed would be an issue or where there is no point in using one.

 

[mabas9395]

Any particular brand recommendations? I probably don't want to buy something at the high end, but I don't want to get a crappy one either.

My way of looking at this question is get filters of similar quality as the glass of the lens you are putting it on. In other words, don't put a $5 filter on a $1,800 lens. If you have some quality lenses, it pays to splurge and get quality filters. If you just have the kit lens, you probably don't need a $200 filter.

I have a Hoya filter that I have been pretty happy with.

 

[ThurlFan]

If it gets very cloudy, if it gets to be evening and shutter speeds become an issue, if you go inside, basically any time shutter speed would be an issue or where there is no point in using one.

If I may politely add a caveat to this (which I generally agree with): If you are taking pictures of things behind glass or which include flat glass elements, the polarizer can still cut down on reflections. However, you will experience the slower speed and may have to use a monopod/tripod/otherpod to steady the camera for your shots because of the reduction in shutter speed. Your answer to this will be based in part on your satisfaction with image quality at higher ISOs that may be needed to get the shot.

 

[disneyboy2003]

Say you're walking around the parks, it's a nice day, and all you want to do it take pictures outdoors. Is there any time you would want to take the filter off?

What about in the shade?

Would it reduce the effect from shadows at all if, let's say, you were shooting a parade and they were passing under a tree and part of the float/ characters where in the shade?

I guess if the polarizer is hindering your shots more than helping, than that's probably the time to take it off. Would you rather have a good shot of the float / characters in the shade, or would you rather have bluer / richer skies but dark float characters? If I'm taking photos during the parade, I'd probably go with better shots of the float / characters. Bluer skies I can get from other photos around the park.

Then again, for better photos in general, you probably shouldn't be standing in an area where the floats would pass by a shaded area. It'll make photos that much harder, trying to take pictures of both the bright sunlit background and/or the shaded foreground characters. See if you can stand in an area with even lighting (either all shaded or all sunlit).

 

[NateNLogansDad]

I guess if the polarizer is hindering your shots more than helping, than that's probably the time to take it off. Would you rather have a good shot of the float / characters in the shade, or would you rather have bluer / richer skies but dark float characters? If I'm taking photos during the parade, I'd probably go with better shots of the float / characters. Bluer skies I can get from other photos around the park.

Then again, for better photos in general, you probably shouldn't be standing in an area where the floats would pass by a shaded area. It'll make photos that much harder, trying to take pictures of both the bright sunlit background and/or the shaded foreground characters. See if you can stand in an area with even lighting (either all shaded or all sunlit).

Our first Christmas parade pushed up into the little walkway....right under the trees It was a nice spot to watch but the lighting stunk. I did get a few I liked, so it wasn't a total loss. I was just curious if this secret weapon were in my bag at the time, would the outcome have been better or worse.

 

[boBQuincy]

Our first Christmas parade pushed up into the little walkway....right under the trees It was a nice spot to watch but the lighting stunk. I did get a few I liked, so it wasn't a total loss. I was just curious if this secret weapon were in my bag at the time, would the outcome have been better or worse.

Actually the polarizer might have helped by darkening the sky, thereby balancing it's light level better with the shaded parade. Some fill flash might also help but remember that your flash distance is reduced by using the polarizer.

 

[mom2rtk]

Can you guys tell me what to look for in a circular polarizer? I'm thinking it would be a good addition for some of the outdoor shots I hope to get at Arches and the Grand Canyon. If I go with a name brand, is that enough? There seems to be so many grades, I'm kind of lost. Is there any problem using one on a UWA?

 

[disneyboy2003]

Can you guys tell me what to look for in a circular polarizer? I'm thinking it would be a good addition for some of the outdoor shots I hope to get at Arches and the Grand Canyon. If I go with a name brand, is that enough? There seems to be so many grades, I'm kind of lost. Is there any problem using one on a UWA?

A couple things I look for in filters. Look for a filter that's multi-coated. This helps to minimize reflection at the filter surfaces, which reduces flare and ghosting. Don't go for filters that have *zero* coating.

The other thing I look for is a filter that's thin / slim. This is especially important if you're using a filter for wide-angle lenses (although you probably shouldn't be using a polarizing filter on very wide-angle lenses). A thin filter will help to avoid vignetting (darkening) at the edges of the photo. Having a thin / slim filter is less important if you're using it for normal or telephoto lenses.

The thing about using polarizing filters on a wide angle lens is that you'll end up getting an uneven colored sky. One part of the sky will be rich blue, and the other part of the sky will be light blue. Here's a photo I stole from the Internet that demonstrates this:

And, as you've already mentioned, you'll want to get a circular polarizer for your dSLR, NOT a linear polarizer. Your dSLR's autofocus system won't work if you use a linear polarizer.

I think B+W and Hoya are the big names in filters. Singh-Ray and Tiffen are pretty big, too.

Hope that helps.

 

[WDWFigment]

Although I've heard the warnings, I often use a CP with a UWA. To me the rich blue sky sometimes trumps the uneven sky. Guess it's a matter of preference. Here's a shot of mine that demonstrates the unevenness; I still like it...


Hoya or Tiffen are good middle tier CPs to get. Expect to spend around $70 for a decent one. Here's a link to one such decent one (thought I'd provide that before Mark comes along and provides his link to a two-thousand dollar filter):
http://www.amazon.com/HOYA-72mm-Cir...3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1272591978&sr=8-3

 

[mom2rtk]

A picture is worth a thousand words! Very helpful as always! Thank you for the complete run down.

 

[mom2rtk]

Although I've heard the warnings, I often use a CP with a UWA. To me the rich blue sky sometimes trumps the uneven sky. Guess it's a matter of preference. Here's a shot of mine that demonstrates the unevenness; I still like it...

Wow....... that stunning blue sky certainly is tempting...... gonna have to think on this.......

Hoya or Tiffen are good middle tier CPs to get. Expect to spend around $70 for a decent one. Here's a link to one such decent one (thought I'd provide that before Mark comes along and provides his link to a two-thousand dollar filter):
http://www.amazon.com/HOYA-72mm-Cir...3?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1272591978&sr=8-3

Would that be the one for that $34,000 lens??????