Work has been a little slower than expected...
CJ's starts their tours at 9:00am the first day, so no including your travel day as part of the tour. Because of that, and flight requirements, we ended up flying in 2 nights early. Got to Casablanca that first afternoon and stayed at a hotel recommended by CJ, Hotel le Doge. Super nice little boutique hotel. We had arranged a transfer thru CJ to get to Fes, where the tour started, for the next morning. Even though the tour didn't officially start until our day 3, our guide and driver came to make the 3 hour transfer for us, which was a nice extra. He got us to our Fes hotel, Hotel Sahrai, and got us settled in. The hotel was nice, with a "hip" sky bar populated by a lot of locals until 8:00pm curfew.
The actual tour started the next morning. We went first to the medina (old town) where our guide had grown up. It is a combo of markets, tannery (big tourist spot), and homes in a warren of small alleys and tunnels, since the second floor often overhangs and touches the neighbors. Without a guide, I'd've been completely lost. Over 50% of the stalls were closed. The tannery, and the adjoining leather product coop, was a stop. I ended up buying a custom leather jacket kind of on a whim. We had also stopped at a rug coop, where we learned a little bit and mostly just sat there while they tried to sell us something. I wasn't too thrilled about that. We had a late lunch and then back to the hotel for a rest and dinner.
Day 2 was a trip to a local farm and goat cheese producer, a 4 mile walk thru the country side with some very pretty views, and then a huge late lunch back at the farm. Lots of food was a common theme on the trip. Meals were huge. From there we went to the Jewish quarter to see an old synagogue. We were supposed to do dinner at a local super nice restaurant, but it was closed due to Covid, so dinner was covered at the hotel.
Day 3 began our drive to the eastern edge and the desert. We stopped in the mountains for a short walk thru the cedar forest. The parking lot had Barbary Macaques, which was fun, though one stole the water bottle right out of one of our pockets. Then it was a long drive back out of the mountains and into the desert. We stopped in Erfoud at a hotel owned by a French gentleman, L'Hotel by chateau de Sable, with definite French service. They were fantastic, and it was a little oasis in the desert. We got there late as Morocco has frequent police checks along the highway for your guide's correct paperwork and the bus's speed monitor.
Day 4 was a tour at a local kasbah with a Toareg tribe member who also happened to have a PhD in anthropology. He was very engaging, and was able to find us some real turbans to purchase for our upcoming camel ride thru the desert. CJ's supplied us with free scarves, but they were small and nowhere near as effective as the "real" ones the locals use. We then did a 3 mile walk around the area and the village before ending up at the local market. We were supposed to go to a local famous mausoleum, but it was closed due to Covid. After our tour, we were brought to a local Berber rug coop and given a short presentation on Berber items and rugs. Dh's cousin ended up buying 2 rugs, which were beautiful. It was not too hard of a sell, and they were very friendly. We actually had about 90 minutes to kill in a lounge off of one of the restaurants there. We decided that due to our small group size and some locations being closed, we had a lot more downtime than a normal tour. From there we got into a landrover with a new driver, who took us out to the edge of the Sahara, where we met our camels. The camel ride was about an hour, with a stop on top a tall dune for pictures and a break, before getting to our camp. I think this was the most memorable part of the trip, just because it was quintessentially Moroccan. Our turbans, btw, worked great.

The camp was very luxurious, and our tent had running water and a toilet. Definite glamping. Dinner was good, and there was drumming and singing around a campfire before bed. Our guide said the family trips tend to get to the camp earlier so they have time for sand boarding down the dunes.
Day 5 we got up and had coffee while I searched for animal tracks in the sand. I'm a biology geek and was pretty stoked to find fennec fox and scarab beetle tracks. We'd had the choice of camel ride back to the edge of the sand, or land rover. We chose land rover, and dh told the driver to "let loose." It was an interesting start to the day, slipping and sliding up and over dunes. Once back on real roads we started to head back to the green parts of the country. It was a long drive, with a stop for a 3 mile walk thru the world's largest oasis. The oasis runs for 120 miles along a riverbed that cuts thru the dessert. It was like a verdant beautiful park, with an easy walk thru orchards and fields. We ended up in Ouarzazate, the Hollywood of Morocco (many movies have been filmed there including the live action Aladin, Gladiator, GOT, etc.) The hotel was nice, though the rooms dates, and almost empty. I think they had 7 guests total. The staff were very nice, and dinner was ok. Again, we didn't have many other options as most restaurants were closed.
Day 6 we first went to Ait ben Haddou, a kasbah/village on a hillside made famous due to the many movies that have been filmed there. It was very picturesque and full of little shops, most of which were closed. Our guide kept shaking his head and saying how full it usually is. I was glad there weren't hoards of tourists, as the streets were narrow and steep, but I felt bad for the locals that are really hurting due to the pandemic. There were a few local artists that were open and we bought a couple of nice small pictures. Then we drove up and thru the mountains to get to Marrakech. Our hotel had canceled on us because we were the only 2 rooms booked. CJ had already taken care of it and had us booked at La Maison Arabe, a super luxury riad style hotel. We were upgraded to suites, and overall this was probably the nicest hotel I've ever stayed at. We had dinner at a local very good restaurant, including a dessert with orange blossom infusion. That's a big thing here and very good.
Day 7 started with a PCR Covid test arranged by CJ and done at the hotel, so we could get on a plane to come home. Then we took a horse drawn carriage ride around the area, which seems a "thing to do" as there were many carriages around. We ended up at the Yves Saint Laurent botanical garden and museum, which was beautiful and interesting, and had the nicest bathrooms on the trip (bonus.) From there we went to the medina, which is larger and much more open than Fes's. Again, many/most places were closed, but I was able to find a few things I wanted to bring back as gifts for my partners who I am leaving high and dry between Morocco and my surgery. We had a free afternoon that our guide was willing to fill with whatever we wanted, but we elected to go relax at the hotel. We had dinner at the hotel, which was quite good, and then we retired to our private courtyard and sipped the champagne they had left in our room. I'm telling you, this place was NICE.
Day 8 was a 4 mile walk along a neighboring valley and a visit to a local school, where we brought them some supplies. It was a pretty walk ending with a slightly nerve wracking low suspension bridge over the river, and the kids were cute, but I feel a little weird showing up as some benevolent white person handing things out. The afternoon was also free and I decided to use the spa at the hotel for a hammam and massage. A hammam is a Moroccan experience of being bathed, scrubbed, and generally rubbed all over. It was really interesting, mostly relaxing, and probably something anyone who wants to experience the culture should do. We had dinner at the hotel and then went to our rooms to pack to go home.
General impressions - the people were friendly and very very happy to see tourists. The culture is seems very open and tolerant, and while the population is majority Islamic, our guide made sure to say that full burqas are not encouraged. We saw women in everything from short sleeves and bare heads to more traditional robes and head/face coverings. Many men, even young ones, wore the traditional jalabiya, which is a long hooded robe used as outerwear, over their jeans and while riding scooters or donkeys. Our guide said the king had introduced many measures over the last 20 years encouraging tolerance and moderation of religion and strengthening Berber traditions, including now teaching Berber in schools. They are welcoming and the tradition is to offer mint tea to visitors, so we got it at hotels, restaurants, stores, etc. Most people were not wearing masks, but the Covid rate for the country is low. Partly this is because in general, movement is restricted. We found out that locals can't just drive to the next city - you have to have papers from your municipality giving you permission. I think this is a standard, pre-covid thing, and part of being ruled by a king. I would definitely go back, maybe to explore the mountains more.
Classic Journeys seemed to be very well run. Our guide was personable, responsible, and definitely up to the task. They don't do flight arrangements or pre/post tour lodging not at the first or last hotels, but our contact person before hand had several helpful tips and suggestions.
Feel free to ask any specifics I left out.