Noise Reduction

Are any of these programs free?

I have never used a noise reduction program on my photos. I generally shoot in 100 ISO. Even shooting in 3200 I have not noticed a need (of course if I tried a program I might think different LOL) for noise reduction.
 
Are any of these programs free?

I have never used a noise reduction program on my photos. I generally shoot in 100 ISO. Even shooting in 3200 I have not noticed a need (of course if I tried a program I might think different LOL) for noise reduction.

Try the Noiseware Community Edition. It is free, but you can only do one pic at a time.

Kevin
 
Another vote for Noiseware Community (the freebie!).

It's been able to make passable prints from my Canon S3; even the *noisy* ISO800! It can't give you an image that you'd make a wall-sized poster out of, but you could certainly get a decent 4x6....

It's pretty easy to use, too ... most of the time I could see a difference between the various profile settings so I could tell which was better for a particular picture.
 
Hi.
Do you leave your camera's noise reduction on at all times or only when using a high ISO?
 

I have the long exposure noise reduction turned on, which on the D200 is anything over 8 seconds Works pretty well, just takes a bit more time to "process" the shot.

I don't use it for high ISO shots, as I tend to stay below 400 almost all the time.
 
I leave mine turned on except for situations when I intend to take a lot of long exposure shots quickly (such as a fireworks display).
 
I never use it. If I am doing long exposures, I am on a tripod and shooting at ISO 200. If I shoot ISO 800-1600, I use noise ninja PP. Usually when I get into that high of ISO I am at Hockey games, and I can't afford to lower my buffer anymore.
 
I'm still just getting to know my Olympus E-510, but I did some comparisons and (for now) decided to leave the noise reduction on low all the time.
 
There may be differences in the way different cameras handle noise reduction. They all do some sort of software based noise reduction. The on/off part on my camera is for what is called "dark frame" noise reduction. After shooting a long exposure (regardless of ISO), the camera then takes a second long exposure with the shutter closed and subtracts that from the first exposure.
 
There may be differences in the way different cameras handle noise reduction. They all do some sort of software based noise reduction. The on/off part on my camera is for what is called "dark frame" noise reduction. After shooting a long exposure (regardless of ISO), the camera then takes a second long exposure with the shutter closed and subtracts that from the first exposure.


Pretty sure that is how it works on the Nikon DSLR's too.
 
Thank you for the responses everyone.
I always leave the noise reduction on but I wasn't sure if I should change it for different ISOs. Still trying to learn. :)
 
There may be differences in the way different cameras handle noise reduction. They all do some sort of software based noise reduction. The on/off part on my camera is for what is called "dark frame" noise reduction. After shooting a long exposure (regardless of ISO), the camera then takes a second long exposure with the shutter closed and subtracts that from the first exposure.

The Olympus E-510 (probably 410 too, not sure about earlier Oly models but I think it's new) has configurable software noise reduction (off, low, normal, high) as well as the noise filter (dark frame subtraction). A very popular setting I've read on another forum is NR off with sharpness -1 for maximum detail retention...

Anyway... am I correct in assuming that no camera regardless of brand does any software noise reduction in RAW?
 
Anyway... am I correct in assuming that no camera regardless of brand does any software noise reduction in RAW?

I assume that you mean "other than dark frame noise reduction", because that is almost certainly applied to RAW files. The answer to that question is not something anyone outside the business really knows for sure. What happens between the sensor and the RAW file is a very closely guarded secret by camera makers. It's at the heart of their image processing. Some processing definitely takes place, like mapping out bad pixels. Some processing takes place on some cameras, like minimal sharpening in Canon .CRW files. What else happens? Make good friends with an engineer at Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Olympus, Fuji, or whoever and ask them. Anyone else is just speculating.
 
Pretty sure that is how it works on the Nikon DSLR's too.
Same in the Pentax world, too.

I turned mine off at some point in WDW after getting tired of waiting a while after some of my longer tripod shots. Never turned it back on, I see little difference - as long as the original shots were at a fairly low ISO (as they would be, if I'm taking an exposure that long), I see no noise issues.

As for point-n-shoots like the S3, I believe that all do basic noise filtering, different levels for different ISOs, and you're unlikely to be able to change any settings - it just does it. If you have one of the more advanced PnSs that can output RAWs, you can bypass that noise reduction and do your own as part of your raw conversion workflow; and there's a very good chance that you can get better results than the camera can.

Even with RAWs, you're still getting some filtering. This happens with DSLRs, for example, certain Nikon and Pentax cameras use pretty much identical sensors. From what I've read, Nikon tunes their to give you slightly more noise reduction at the expense of a little fine detail, while Pentax gives you a touch more noise but a little more detail, too. The differences are very slight and probably only noticable to pixel-peepers poring over lab tests, but there are differences.

And with the JPGs from PnS cameras, it can be all over the map. We'll probably see more and more aggressive noise filtering as high ISOs are now on the "must have" list for cheaper cameras. A camera with 8+ mp and a 1/2.5" sensor and ISO 3200 has to do a lot of noise reduction to give you a remotely usable photo, and by and large, more noise reduction = less detail. Pick your poison, as they say.
 
I had mine turned on all the time - then when I shot Wishes at Disney I turned it off - and forgot to turn it back on. Thanks for the reminder. ;)
 
Does the Canon S3 have noise reduction? If so - how do I find it?

It does, but you can't do anything to change it ... like most P&S, it's always enabled.

You can use the firmware "hack" to shoot in RAW mode which does not, IIRC, use the DIGIC II's noise reduction. You might be able to get better results by processing the RAW manually and running an external NR program (like Noiseware). For myself, I guess I'm not very skilled with processing RAW files as I've never been able to process a RAW file that, IMO, looked any better than the JPGs coming out of my S3.

Personally, I'm happy that Canon chose to use a light hand with their in-camera NR processing on the S3; it does lead to noisier pictures, but you also get more detail which can be preserved with more powerful PC software. Once in-camera NR has blurred details, they can't be recovered PP.
 
I'm in the process of doing a telecine transfer of some old 8mm film (not video) footage to my computer. Anyone have any tips for:

1) Removing dust spots on the video
2) Cleaning up film grain
3) Fixing scratches

I'm using Cinecap for the transfer and was planning to use Sony Vegas for the editing. I'd be happy to buy additional software if it'll help.

I expect to run into some footage of the MK and DL from the 70s. If I do, I'll try to post some of it.
 
You know, you posted about 2 years too late. LOL I know I tried a lot of demo plugins for Premiere, and some had standalone apps too. I'll see if I can find what they are.
 


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