You asked for it! Report on the Crazy Woman 2009 Tour--New Orleans...
My youngest sister & I started the Crazy Woman Tour last summer after a particularly difficult year. DSis had a nervous breakdown in the fall of 2008 and I was generally distressed and burning out at my job. As a result of a deep, soul-searching late night conversation we agreed that we needed a girls only getaway. I flew out to Seattle and we spent a week camping and hiking in the Olympic peninsula, no men! So began our commitment to reaffirm and nourish our sibling relationships.
This year, it was Sister #2's turn. We drove from her home in Meridian, MS, to New Orleans last Monday. I had ressies at the Place d'Armes down on St.Ann Street--very nice place, i might add. Thanks for the suggestion! The first evening we struck out in the general direction of Bourbon street, talking and deciding what we most wanted to accomplish. It started pouring rain so we slipped into a bar(I can't remember which one) and sat by the open doorway people-watching as we ate our dinners of salad and muffaletta. After the rain slacked off we did a little window shopping and just oriented ourselves to the French Quarter. Then back to our room for some rest--we're getting up early in the morning.
Now an aside--my sister likes to talk about traveling, but the reality is she has a lot of anxiety about doing anything she hasn't done before. That's how we ended up going to N.O.--she turned down NYC, Savannah, Branson, Nashville, and Memphis, none of which has she ever been to. She has a lot of excuses("can't fit into an airline seat" "afraid of getting mugged" "my daughter will be anxious/upset/,jealous" "my family will fall apart if I'm not there to do everything, they'll run out of food, clean clothes, things to do" I kid you not.) So just getting her out of Meridian was a major undertaking. But she's been to New Orleans with the Girl Scouts a couple times,so it was okay.
Tuesday morning we arose to a lovely breakfast of croissants & tea in a little nook at the hotel, right by the street. More people watching. then we set out for the New Orleans School of Cooking where we met Pat, a petite older white-haired local lady who reminded me of Paula Deen. Very genuine. She walked us through bread pudding, then making a roux for our gumbo. I know what roux is. I grew up in Mobile and we eat gumbo there too. But for the life of me I cannot make a good roux. My mother grew up in Virginia--they don't eat gumbo, make roux or make grits, either. So she's no help. Anyway, Miz Pat provided us with some very interesting historical anecdotes about the settling of Louisiana and the peoples who make New Orleans what it is today. She talked about architecture and the various contributions of slaves to the lives of New Orleanians. One of the participants asked her about Hurricane Katrina and she answered politely, but firmly "Been there, done that, let's move on." I bet she gets that a billion times a day and personally, I think unless a local brings it up, Katrina is probably not a topic of casual conversation, kind of like talking about 9/11 in NYC.
But Miz Pat was very chatty, showing us how to make our roux blond, peanut butter, and hershey bar chocolate. She had printed all the recipes for us and I took mad notes. Now that she's shown me the light I can't wait to make some real gumbo. She also made some chicken jambolaya and while all that was cooking she made prah-leens. Haha, most of us pronounce it pray-leens, but she set us straight. You know, when in Rome do as the Romans do...
After noshing on delicious and filling food we were turned loose to buy some of the seasonings and other items which were available. I picked up some Joe's Stuff and Big Kevin's Bayou Blend, and some file and hot sauce. And a red shirt with the School of Cooking logo. Pat says if we make some of the recipes and take a picture of it, they will send us a Diploma from the School of Cooking. I plan to make my gumbo and take the picture in my official New Orleans School of Cooking t-shirt.
By this time, DSis needed a rest. She is very heavy and had not brought good walking shoes. She brought various sandals and flip-flops, so walking on those uneven sidewalks she was in a world of hurt. We finally set off for the Riverwalk Mall in hopes of finding some better shoes for her. We had to stop about every 2 blocks, so I thought we'd never get there. Although it did give us an opportunity to talk honestly about how our weight affects our lives(I'm overweight too, but she's at 100+-lbs heavier.) I've been successful so far on Weight Watchers, losing 28-lbs in the past 3 months which has already made a huge difference in my energy & activity levels. DSis has been on diets since we were in college, yoyoing up and down, but mostly up & up. She is just defeated about her weight and has stopped trying altogether. Of course, the higher her weight has gone the less active she is able to be and it is now a vicious cycle and she's getting heavier every day. I'm very concerned because she was clearly in over her head on this trip. So I asked her if she had ever considered bariatric surgery. She admitted that she had considered it, but hadn't looked into it because she assumed insurance wouldn't pay for it. Her BMI is over 50, she has severe sleep apnea, and terrible joint pain and fibromyalgia. I'm very sure insurance will look at is as a medical necessity. But I digress...
Anyway, we finally did find some shoes that fit and they seemed to help, although her hip was really killing her by then. Thankfully, the street car came along and delivered us to Dumaine Street only a couple blocks to our hotel.Still, DSis couldn't make it all the way. We ended up stopping twice, then limped into Stanley's for an awesome reuben and a heavenly hamburger. From there we were able to make it another 3-4 doors down to our hotel where DSis collapsed on the bed for 2 hours.
After the sun went down i began to hear music. We had a balcony room so I went out for a look. I could see the whole front of St. Louis Cathedral to the local musicians and palm readers who had set up. There was a lone flute player making the most beautiful, evocative music and I coaxed DSis to come outside. She's a musician and so she really appreciated the music.
About the time the music died down, here came the Ghost Tour, haha. The little guy was very earnest, holding forth about the hauntings in the restaurant next to us and all the 25-30 people were listening intently. So I started making spooking noises, "ooooooohhhh, oooooooohhhh." DSis threatened to throw my over the railing. About that time an SUV turned the corner, shut their lights,eased up on the Ghost Tour and SCREAMED! hahahahaha,the tour group just about died on the spot and DSis and I just about fell out of our chairs laughing. I told her I couldn't wait until the next night--I'm totally going to wear a sheet out there. I went to bed craving pralines.
Wednesday morning we didn't have much to accomplish before our afternoon Swamp Tour. We slept in a bit then walked over to Cafe du Monde. When I was a kid I couldn't get enough beignets, but as an adult...meh. I had forgotten what fried dough tastes like. Plus we were covered with powdered sugar. Oh well. Done that, cross it of our list. I needed 2 bottles of water to counteract my slighly queasy stomach. We made our way to Aunt Sally's for some already-made pralines and a couple books about Hurricane Katrina. We walked through the French Market and bought a couple of tshirts and ball caps to take home, then wandered back up to Jackson Square. DSis was really miserable by now, so we rested a moment in the Square. But that time DSis only wanted to lay down and rest, but I insisted that we go over to St.Louis Cathedral. She has never been inside before. Of course, DSis had a million reasons to not go ("they always have mass going on" "we've only got 45 minutes until we leave for the Swamp Tour") But I prevailed--yes, I forced my sister to go inside one of the most beautiful working churches in the U.S. She didn't even want to walk around and look at the windows or the icons, but I pretty much shamed her into it. It's not that she isn't religious or doesn't appreciate beauty. She was just spent. But she loved the Cathedral and afterward thanked me for making her go there.
By then it was time to leave on Dr. Wagner's Honey Island Swamp Tour. Rather than try to find this thing ourselves we paid the extra $20 to have them pick us up and drive us out there. This was the best $20 I have ever spent! Our driver, Mr. LeFevre, was a dyed in the wool Cajun from Irish Bayou. He had extensive knowlege of the French Quarter, the cemetaries, and the surrounding areas. He was not shy about talking about the damage Katrina wreaked in New Orleans East and the local bayous, and how little has recovered in those areas.
Once delivered to the Swamp Tour, we met Captain Jack, a local man who drove us up and down the West Pearl River looking for animals. We saw about 9 gators, including one big honkin' 15-footer, plus some birds, snakes, bugs, and some boys water-skiing with those gators. Yowsa!
On the way back, our driver Mr. LeFevre asked us if we'd like to see where he lives. Now this might sound creepy, but we were with 4 other people and he was very genuine. He took down the road into Irish Bayou where we saw lot after abandoned lot, some with mailboxes and nothing else. He said over 130 homes were lost(out of 145.) One couple decided they wanted to buy some shrimp, so Mr LeFevre took us to his favorite shrimp shed where they bought live shrimp fresh off the boat. You can't get better local color than that. We didn't even need another tour after that trip.
I was looking forward to our last great dinner of the trip, perhaps at Landry's or Cafe Maspero, but true to form, DSis didn't want to eat there. So, Bubba Gumps it is. Ack. The food was good, but sheesh! It's a chain. I suggested we go to Preservation Hall for some music, but no, she said it was standing only, no seats (huh?). I told her we could go next door and listen through the wall, but she didn't like that either. I even tried appealing to her sense of luxury by suggesting a nice pedicure for our aching feet, but she nixed that--she's never had one, therefore a million excuses("my toenails are too short" "they might hurt my feet") I did get her to walk over to the Moonwalk for about 15 minutes. then back to the room at 8pm and that was the end of our trip.
I really had a good time and we got along well. As long as I let her win in at "can you top this?" and didn't challenge her too much, we did okay. Did I resent her for being slow? The honest answer is yes, I did, a little bit. I would have liked to see more and try more and do some things we can't do when our kids are with us. DSis came face to face with the fact that she is disabled by her weight now. I felt bad for her because she really felt humiliated and embarrassed as she toddled around looking for benches. But we did enjoy our time together and I think it was just the right amount of time. She was glad to be back home with her family and I was glad to get back to mine.
My DH is thinking about bringing DS22 and DD16 down in August for DSs birthday. They want to go on a Ghost Tour and see Preservation Hall.