Looking For New Camera. Please help

[photo_chick]

Two things stand out to me from your first post&
This...

I am just looking for a camera that will take great shots in great detail and is very good at night shots.

And this...

I would like to get better shots than the shots that I am posting.

Both of those things have a lot more to do with the photographer using the camera than they do the camera. While night shots are technical shooting, and having the right tools can help, it won't help much if you don't know the hows and whys of night shooting.

1) Can ALL of these cameras give me a better image quality for the shots that I am interested in right out of the box?

Better is relative to your definition. Some may offer improved noise performance at higher ISO settings. But that in no way makes for better images overall. Things like focus and exposure are critical and hitting those generally falls to the user and not the camera. Even if it's choosing the best auto mode for the job or understanding how the auto focus system on a particular camera works.

2) Do ALL of these cameras have better than a 10x optical zoom right out of the box?

When you start talking DSLR lenses you don't talk in terms of 10x zoom, you talk about focal length. The simple answer is you'd need to buy a super zoom lens (like 18-200) to get your 10X zoom. If you look on sites like preview.com they list the 35mm equivalent focal lengths for point and shoot cameras. This can help you compare apples to apples.

3) Do ALL cameras give me a better fast autofocus and fast shutter speeds compared to my current camera right out of the box?

There are factors that come into play here, such as the lens used, focusing mode and the photographers skill that make it impossible to really accurately answer this question. Some lenses hunt and are slow to focus. Some cameras only focus well with center point. Some don't track well but do great with single shot. Some will focus lighting fast in full sun but get sloggy in low light. So while there is the potential to be faster it's not a simple yes answer because there are numerous factors that affect auto focus speed.And then there is the question of auto focus accuracy (just ask some 6D owners). Fast focus means nothing if it's not accurate.

4) And do ALL of these cameras give me a option to get different lens when and if I decide to go down that avenue at some point in the future.

Some of the high end point and shoots, like the RX100 and the Canon G16 (among others) are more capable cameras out of the box than an entry level DSLR with a standard 18-55 kit lens or super zoom lens. What makes a DSLR or mirroless camera so desirable is the ability to change lenses so you can use a specific tool for the job. If this is something you don't really plan on doing your money may be better spent on a high end point and shoot that has a capable lens. The days of DSLR's automatically meaning better image quality have been gone for a while now.

 

[hakepb]

Here are a few racing shots from Long Beach Grand Prix from 2011 using the camera that I have right now. Every shot except the last shot was taken at 140 MPH plus. The shots aren't that bad, But could be slightly better in my opinion.

Those are nice shots!
Without EXIF data its hard to determine if you are hitting your cameras max 1/2000 shutter speed and/or are you fighting a camera that likes to focus on the fence? (And that's where a camera with a larger sensor can help blur the fence more.)
Fwiw the T3 has a max shutter speed of 1/4000. Pro and some prosumer cameras go up to 1/8000 max shutter speed like the new Canon d70.

 

[Eaglefan9727]

Those are nice shots!
Without EXIF data its hard to determine if you are hitting your cameras max 1/2000 shutter speed and/or are you fighting a camera that likes to focus on the fence? (And that's where a camera with a larger sensor can help blur the fence more.)
Fwiw the T3 has a max shutter speed of 1/4000. Pro and some prosumer cameras go up to 1/8000 max shutter speed like the new Canon d70.

I can clearly say that those shots that I took were of the original settings when I got the camera itself. And when I get the new camera, I will be doing that at first, But then after a while. I will be fooling around with the settings to see what works out the best for me and my shots.

 

[havoc315]

Those are nice shots!
Without EXIF data its hard to determine if you are hitting your cameras max 1/2000 shutter speed and/or are you fighting a camera that likes to focus on the fence? (And that's where a camera with a larger sensor can help blur the fence more.)
Fwiw the T3 has a max shutter speed of 1/4000. Pro and some prosumer cameras go up to 1/8000 max shutter speed like the new Canon d70.

All true... Though remember, for an ordinary consumer, you are seldom going to use anything faster than about 1/1000. Even if your camera is capable of 1/8000.... That lets in so little light, that you would need an extremely wide aperture, at a high ISO setting, in good light, to get a proper exposure at that speed. Unless you upgrade to an expensive lens, a kit lens isn't going to give you a wide enough aperture to allow shooting at 1/8000 (unless you are literally shooting the sun).

For example -- In bright day light, at ISO 800, to get a proper exposure at 1/8000... You would need an aperture of 2.8, which is outside the range of ordinary kit lenses.
Using a kit lens at ISO 400... At aperture of 5.6, you're never going to shoot faster than 1/1000... which is fast enough to freeze any typical action.
I've gone up to ISO 800 to shoot at 1/2000...... As in this shot to freeze the action:


baseball-78.jpg by Havoc315, on Flickr

And here is 1/1600:

baseball-17.jpg by Havoc315, on Flickr

The thing is, to shoot at 1/2000... It's more than just having a camera capable of shooting that shutter speed. You also need a camera that can focus fast and maintain focus (phase detection of a dSLR helps). And you need a camera that can produce great results at high ISO.
If you take a small sensor camera, and shoot at 1/2000... pushing the ISO up to 1600, the results will often look horrible, since those cameras don't perform well at ISO 1600.
Typically, point and shoot sensors start to deteriorate over ISO 200.
The specialty compacts like the RX100... they start to deteriorate over ISO 400/800.
APS-C cameras can safely get you to 800-1600 but then start to deteriorate.
Full frame cameras can get you to 6400+.

 

[Eaglefan9727]

Like I said, Most of my shooting will be of railroad related stuff compared to action shots like Havoc315 posted. I don't shoot that many action shots of anything else. As Photo_Chick stated "What makes a DSLR or mirroless camera so desirable is the ability to change lenses so you can use a specific tool for the job. If this is something you don't really plan on doing your money may be better spent on a high end point and shoot that has a capable lens". The issue is that I am not just looking for another shoot and point camera. Ive been using them for years now and I would like a good beginner DSLR camera that is shooter friendly and has much better image quality than what I am getting from my Sony Cybershot right now. Yes, I know I have to get a different lens if I want to get it up to a zoom of 10x just like my Sony Cybershot zoom is, But that is how it is and that is something that I will have to deal with when the time comes.

 

[hakepb]

It sounds like a DSLr is the way you are leaning

This might be the most advanced DSLr (great high-ISO, AF system, 1/6000 shutter speed)you can start with in your price rangeits a. Canon. T4i compeditor at this T 3 price )
Pentax K500 for $359 after a $100 rebate through today
https://www.huntsphotoandvideo.com/detail_page.cfm?productid=15507&mfg=Pentax

Pentax has a few inherit advantages over entry level Canon and Nikon models like a real 100%coverage pentaprism viewfinder (vs the darker smaller pentamirror ) and in-body stabilization so you can easily use cheaper non - stabilized lenses.

 

[zackiedawg]

I think Photo Chick was on the right path, personally, and I'm going to attempt to be a little more blunt to go with that line of thinking...

I don't think you need a new camera. I do not think that an improvement to your current shots requires all that much better of a camera, if at all - maybe some improvement to certain types of photos, but certainly not the type you're describing or that you've taken. I think your current camera can actually improve on the results you've posted so far...simply by changing a few settings, and taking a little more control over your camera.

First off, have you tried tuning the JPG output to be slightly more to your taste? Most cameras have 'picture settings', where you can alter the color profile, and often fine tune the contrast, saturation, and sharpness of the photos that the camera outputs. Putting in a little more contrast, popping up to a bolder picture setting, changing saturation, etc might give you nicer results.

Second - have you tried different metering modes, and adjusting the EV and White balance? For one thing, MANY Sony cameras from P&S all the way to DSLRs seem to really meter and expose best in 'center-weighted' metering mode...if you're shooting in Auto modes or on default settings, you're likely in multi metering. Some of the shots you posted are a little highlight-peaky, and lacking in contrast - they feel a tad overexposed. Center weighted metering could address this issue, as well as turning the EV or Exposure Value down to -.3 or -.7. Learning what to meter off of will also help.

Here's the thing - there is very little image quality difference between a small, pocketable P&S camera or even phone, and a top of the line $10,000 full-frame DSLR, when it comes to regular, daylight, auto mode casual walkaround shooting. Where you see image quality differences are in challenging situations. Even 'night shooting' has several different definitions...if your night shooting is going to be more like the one with the castle and fireworks, a low ISO, long shutter speed, and a tripod will make your photos beautiful, moreso than buying a new camera will. Where the big sensor cameras have an advantage is when you get into hand-held, high ISO night shooting, or night shooting of moving subjects, people, etc. The big sensors and pro-body cameras will excel in specialized shooting conditions - controlling depth of field for background isolation, pro portraiture, wildlife and sports shooting (pro level), tracking focus shots, etc...and all of those require a better PHOTOGRAPHER, not just a better camera. For walking around taking casual photos, even very good ones, you don't need a better camera, you need a better eye, better composition, and good understanding of exposure. At normal printing or displaying sizes, almost anyone would be hard pressed to see the difference in a photo from a phone or a mega-DSLR. or put more succinctly, you can still get amazing photos from a cheap P&S or phone if you put in the effort and increase your skill.

So maybe consider tweaking the settings of your current camera, practicing with taking the controls over and making more exposure decisions, and use the right tools and settings for the conditions (like tripods and long exposures at night)...rather than buying a new camera that frankly will give you very similar results for 85% of your shooting needs, and maybe just a small improvement for the other 15%.

As an example, I've got some photos taken 7-8 years ago, with an old 5MP superzoom P&S with a tiny sensor...I shoot now with a DSLR and a NEX both with big fat sensors and lots of lenses, yet I don't think in normal walkaround shooting that I can do significantly better than I did with the old P&S cameras. It's only when I get into more specialized shooting and high-demand shooting situations where I can get a lot more from the DSLRs...here are some old 5MP P&S superzoom snaps as an idea:

Subject isolation:

Night shooting:

Go back about 10 years, from a P&S camera with 5MP, and you could still get good results:

And post-processing can also help get nicer results...I don't prefer to do much post processing to be honest, but I wanted bolder, more contrasty appearance and punchy saturation with an old P&S 5MP camera, I just tweaked the result until I got it:

Honestly, I know much more about photography now than I did then, but I still can't say that most of my better results in normal, every day shooting, come because I have better cameras, but more because I've learned to tune my cameras more, use the right settings, and understand exposure more. There are definitely types of photography I couldn't do before and I love DSLRs for that, but to me, you sound like you'd get a lot of improvement from your current camera and the right settings and some more control and effort, versus just buying a new camera, even with a bigger sensor.

 

[Eaglefan9727]

Thanks for your post zackiedawg. One of the major issues why I am looking at a new camera is, Because since the WDW trip that my wife and I took last month. The camera has been acting up a little on me compared to normal for some unknown reason. Don't ask me what is wrong with it, But ever since day one of the trip. The issue was that sometimes when I took a picture. The picture would turn out blurry and I could take 3 or 4 shots and all of them would turn out blurry. However, When that took place. I just turned off the camera and then turned it back on and took a shot and it didn't turn out blurry and was good. This took place many times over on the 13 day vacation that my wife and I did last month. Prior to that, I didn't have any issues like that with the camera. It is very frustrating and annoying for me to deal with that as I missed a couple shots that I wanted at specific moments at WDW. This is the only reason why I am starting to look at a new camera.

 

[photo_chick]

Those are nice shots!
Without EXIF data its hard to determine if you are hitting your cameras max 1/2000 shutter speed and/or are you fighting a camera that likes to focus on the fence? (And that's where a camera with a larger sensor can help blur the fence more.)
Fwiw the T3 has a max shutter speed of 1/4000. Pro and some prosumer cameras go up to 1/8000 max shutter speed like the new Canon d70.

Most of the time when you need a shutter speed over 1/4000 it's bright sun and you need to shoot wide open. That is easily overcome with a neutral density filter. It's a limitation people like to point out when they nitpick the specs but in real world use it's only a minor inconvenience on rare occasions.

 

[Daisy14'sDH]

Only time I hit those superfast shutter speeds is when I'm bracketing for HDR, with moving subjects I open up to get the fastest brackets I can

 

[fractal]

this is at 18mm, f3.5

another at 18mm, f3.5

18mm, f3.5 I would say these are the type of results you can get with the kit lens and a steady hand. These are all hand held and there were quite a few that came out more blurry.

The next few are with the kit lens.

 

[fractal]

more kit lens...

and a dark ride shot with the kit. Again, at f3.5. I would usually use a faster lens in dark rides ( or at night ), but that day I took the NEX-3+ kit instead of the NEX-7 because it was raining off and on.

Good luck with your search!

 

[Eaglefan9727]

Thanks for those shots. Now, I can pretty much say that camera is in the running as there are only a few on the list that I am looking at right now. You mentioned something about the 18-200mm zoom lens. I looked on Amazon at those lens and I don't see any that belonged to Sony. Would a Canon EF-S 18-200 mm zoom lens work on the Sony camera? Sorry for ALL the questions as I am new to cameras with lens. I have always used point to shoot cameras and this would be my first lens camera. I also just noticed on Amazon 2 different Sony N3's and they are as follows:

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-NEX-3NL-...TF8&qid=1383979855&sr=8-1&keywords=Sony+NEX-3

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Intercha...TF8&qid=1383978245&sr=8-2&keywords=Sony+NEX-3

The difference between the two that I can see is APS-C sensor as one of them is at 16.1 MP and the other one is at 14.2 MP. Also, There is a difference when it comes to the lens. The one with the 14.2 lens has a 18-55mm E-Series Lens while the camera with the 16.1 MP sensor. That has a PZ 16-50mm kit lens. I am not sure if there are any other things, But those two that I mention. I was able to tell pretty easy.

Anyways, Right now, The cameras that are on my short list of 7 cameras are as follows:

1) Canon Rebel t3
2) Canon Rebel t3i
3) Sony A3000
4) Sony N3
5) Sony A58
6) Nikon D3100
7) Nikon D3200

However, The 4 cameras that really have caught my attention are the Canon Rebel t3, Canon Rebel t3i, Sony A3000, and the Sony N3

Like I said, I am a beginner when it comes to cameras with lens, So I want to make the right choice when it comes to the camera. I want a lens camera that is good for beginners when it comes to these kind of cameras. I also want a camera that I can find a easy lens that will take me up to atleast 10x zoom as that is what I am used to on my point and shoot camera right now. And most important, It has to do great quality images for the most part with day time and night time shots which would mean better image quality shots than my point and shoot cybershot camera that I have right now. Those are some major key factors in which camera I end up with.

 

[traylorc]

Like I said, I am a beginner when it comes to cameras with lens, So I want to make the right choice when it comes to the camera. I want a lens camera that is good for beginners when it comes to these kind of cameras. I also want a camera that I can find a easy lens that will take me up to atleast 10x zoom as that is what I am used to on my point and shoot camera right now. And most important, It has to do great quality images for the most part with day time and night time shots which would mean better image quality shots than my point and shoot cybershot camera that I have right now. Those are some major key factors in which camera I end up with.

One thing that may help you is to find a store where you can "play" with each of the cameras that have caught your eye. How do each of them feel in your hands? How intuitive are the menus of each camera? Those are important factors that can help you make your final decision.

Also...understand that whatever camera you take is not going to give you "great images". That is the responsibility of the photographer. One of the biggest myths in photography is the idea that a better camera is going to automatically yield better images. Take it from someone who has first hand experience with believing the "better camera" myth. Early in my photography experience, I upgraded to top of the line camera bodies and lenses. Imagine my surprise when shortly after making those expensive purchases...my images still looked horrible. It wasn't until I spend time religiously reading my manuals and reading books like Understanding Exposure before my photography improved. Moral of the story...make sure you take some time to upgrade your knowledge regarding photography and don't simply focus on updating your camera equipment.

Good luck!

 

[hakepb]

Canon and Sony lens mounts are different so its best to stay in the same family. (And the Sony A mount for the a37 is different than the E mount for the NEX 3 and a3000, Sony does make some nice A mount adaptors for the E mount, but they add cost and bulk).
Technically there is a Canon EF to Sony E mount adaptor that provides basic, but slow AF using canon glass on a NEX, but I wouldn't recommend it. And there are a bunch of adaptors that let you use old manual focus lenses.

But staying with the same mount, Sigma and Tamron make lenses with mounts for different camera families.

Canon does have the edge in new lenses. But the Sony A37 DSlt lets you use old Minolta film A mount lenses, that can be picked up very affordably.

 

[havoc315]

l]

[

1) Canon Rebel t3
2) Canon Rebel t3i
3) Sony A3000
4) Sony N3
5) Sony A58
6) Nikon D3100
7) Nikon D3200

However, The 4 cameras that really have caught my attention are the Canon Rebel t3, Canon Rebel t3i, Sony A3000, and the Sony N3

.

Canon lenses do not work on Sony a-mount. There are Tamron and Sigma lenses that work on Sony.
And the best thing about shooting Sony, the availability of used Minolta lenses. Because of the camera design, specifically in body stabilization, there are phenomenal 20 year old lenses that you can buy for a song, that match much more expensive lenses from other brands.
For example, Minolta 70-210 f4 lens... Can buy a top quality copy for $100-$150. Canon makes a similarly performing lens for over $700.

So the cameras you mentioned--

Canon T3. Older pure entry level dSLR.
Canon T3i-- also a bit older. But considered a step up from the t3.
Sony A3000-- not a dSLR. Mirrorless camera stuck in a dSLR appearance. Uses e-mount lenses. Smaller and lighter. And if you buy adapters, you can use any lens ever made. (Though often with manual focus ). The camera is a good value but the body is poorly designed. Slower auto focus and other issues.
Sony Nex3-- same guts as the a3000. All the pros and cons of mirrorless. But in a smaller and better designed camera body than the a3000. Uses same lenses ( or any lens with adapter).
Sony a58. A-mount, dslt. DSLT is very similar to dSLR with a few critical differences. Electronic viewfinder and seamless live view are the big differences. Other dslrs use optical viewfinder and performance suffers when using live view. On the a58, have live view with full auto focus. The main negative is very slightly worse noise performance than Nikons. Another advantage of the Sony a-mount is in-body-image-stabization as opposed to other cameras that put it in the lens. (My absolute best optical quality lens was bought from eBay for $90, and matches $500+ lenses... As long as the glass isn't damaged, lenses never really go bad).
Nikon d3100-- Nikon's true entry level dSLR.
Nikon d3200-- a very nice upgrade from the 3100. A much better sensor, better noise performance.

You need to decide dSLR vs dSLT vs mirrorless. Then you compare features of the different cameras and pick. They are all good cameras but with different strengths.
Great live view? High ISO performance? Smaller and lighter?
Burst rates? Articulating screen?

 

[photo_chick]

Like I said, I am a beginner when it comes to cameras with lens, So I want to make the right choice when it comes to the camera. I want a lens camera that is good for beginners when it comes to these kind of cameras. I also want a camera that I can find a easy lens that will take me up to atleast 10x zoom as that is what I am used to on my point and shoot camera right now. And most important, It has to do great quality images for the most part with day time and night time shots which would mean better image quality shots than my point and shoot cybershot camera that I have right now. Those are some major key factors in which camera I end up with.

This paragraph says you really don't quite get it yet.

Unfortunately you won't know if you've really made the right choice until you have used the camera for a while. It's just impossible to know. It really sounds like you're nitpicking the specs and while it's good to compare those things it's not good to get hung up on them. Specs don't make great images, photographers do. It's also good to go to the store and play with the cameras then go with the one your gut tells you is right.

Any camera with an auto mode is good for beginners.

10x zoom... you have to start thinking in terms of measured focal length. I can say if I have a lens that goes from 20mm to 200 mm I have 10X zoom but it doesn't mean that I will be able to zoom in on objects as far away your little super zoom point and shoot can. You have to compare apples to apples. I went and looked up the Sony H20 you said you have. It's 35mm equivalent focal length is 38-380mm.

Your most important, that it take great quality images... getting a great shot is 90% the photographer. Most cameras, even the cheapest point and shoots, are capable of great quality images in the right hands. You just have to understand how to leverage their strengths. And likewise no camera, even a $6000 DSLR, is not going to give you consistently good quality images unless you know how to use it. You'll always be hit and miss with your shots until you learn what to do. Many people are very happy that way but many are not. You just have to decide which category you fall into.

 

[havoc315]

This paragraph says you really don't quite get it yet.

Unfortunately you won't know if you've really made the right choice until you have used the camera for a while. It's just impossible to know. It really sounds like you're nitpicking the specs and while it's good to compare those things it's not good to get hung up on them. Specs don't make great images, photographers do. It's also good to go to the store and play with the cameras then go with the one your gut tells you is right.

Any camera with an auto mode is good for beginners.

10x zoom... you have to start thinking in terms of measured focal length. I can say if I have a lens that goes from 20mm to 200 mm I have 10X zoom but it doesn't mean that I will be able to zoom in on objects as far away your little super zoom point and shoot can. You have to compare apples to apples. I went and looked up the Sony H20 you said you have. It's 35mm equivalent focal length is 38-380mm.

Your most important, that it take great quality images... getting a great shot is 90% the photographer. Most cameras, even the cheapest point and shoots, are capable of great quality images in the right hands. You just have to understand how to leverage their strengths. And likewise no camera, even a $6000 DSLR, is not going to give you consistently good quality images unless you know how to use it. You'll always be hit and miss with your shots until you learn what to do. Many people are very happy that way but many are not. You just have to decide which category you fall into.

Everything Danielle said is correct. Of the cameras you mentioned, if you set each one in auto mode, and compose the same regular day light shot, the images will be nearly indistinguishable.
A higher resolution camera will let you blow up the picture more -- but smaller sizes will be identical. A sensor with better ISO performance will give better results in extreme low light and an advantage with some action shots. But no difference in a good daylight still image.
A camera with a fast burst rate will help capture action. Faster autofocus will be faster... But whether the focus was fast or slow, if the final image is properly focused, it will look the same no natter how you get there.

So the cameras you listed -- they are all capable of excellent images in the right hands. They all have telephoto zoom lenses available. But each has some different strengths and weaknesses.

Danielle said your current camera has a 380mm reach. To get the same reach on an APS-C sensor, you need a minimum of a 250mm lens.
If you do value image quality highly, you want to stay away from the all-in-one lenses. In other words, a 70-200 lens is almost always optically superior to a 18-200. When a dSLR lens has to cover too big a range, the lens is designed with a lot of compromises.
I own and use about 10 different lenses, no super zooms.
10-24 ultra wide. 16-50 2.8. 70-210 f4. 70-300. 35-105 3.5-4.5. 35 1.8 prime. 50 1.7 prime. 50 2.8 macro. 85 2.8. 135 2.8.
It's not about finding 1 lens that can do everything poorly. It's about finding the right lens that can do the right situation well.

 

[bob100]

Thanks for those shots. Now, I can pretty much say that camera is in the running as there are only a few on the list that I am looking at right now. You mentioned something about the 18-200mm zoom lens. I looked on Amazon at those lens and I don't see any that belonged to Sony. Would a Canon EF-S 18-200 mm zoom lens work on the Sony camera? Sorry for ALL the questions as I am new to cameras with lens. I have always used point to shoot cameras and this would be my first lens camera. I also just noticed on Amazon 2 different Sony N3's and they are as follows:

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-NEX-3NL-...TF8&qid=1383979855&sr=8-1&keywords=Sony+NEX-3

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Intercha...TF8&qid=1383978245&sr=8-2&keywords=Sony+NEX-3

The difference between the two that I can see is APS-C sensor as one of them is at 16.1 MP and the other one is at 14.2 MP. Also, There is a difference when it comes to the lens. The one with the 14.2 lens has a 18-55mm E-Series Lens while the camera with the 16.1 MP sensor. That has a PZ 16-50mm kit lens. I am not sure if there are any other things, But those two that I mention. I was able to tell pretty easy.

Anyways, Right now, The cameras that are on my short list of 7 cameras are as follows:

1) Canon Rebel t3
2) Canon Rebel t3i
3) Sony A3000
4) Sony N3
5) Sony A58
6) Nikon D3100
7) Nikon D3200

However, The 4 cameras that really have caught my attention are the Canon Rebel t3, Canon Rebel t3i, Sony A3000, and the Sony N3

Like I said, I am a beginner when it comes to cameras with lens, So I want to make the right choice when it comes to the camera. I want a lens camera that is good for beginners when it comes to these kind of cameras. I also want a camera that I can find a easy lens that will take me up to atleast 10x zoom as that is what I am used to on my point and shoot camera right now. And most important, It has to do great quality images for the most part with day time and night time shots which would mean better image quality shots than my point and shoot cybershot camera that I have right now. Those are some major key factors in which camera I end up with.

I agree with some of the other comments, cameras and lens have different features and image quality so perhaps your best option may be to check them out at a store.
The "10 X zoom" factor might be a challenge but there are inexpensive lens available and you can crop the image to get further "reach". Also, if you get Canon get it "refurbished" - because it's cheaper but with the same new model looks and a one year warranty.




since you like motorsports here's a pic with an old DSLR (Canon XSi/450D) and a $100 lens (Canon 55-250IS) approximating '10 x zoom' by cropping the image

 

[KAT4DISNEY]

Most of us also get more "zoom" by cropping photographs at one time or another. There's also a phrase of "zooming with your feet". ie - get closer to the subject. Why - because the longer focal length lenses are very expensive. With the DSLR size sensors the image quality is better than the P&S's so you can still get a better picture than if you had to crop a P&S photo. But if the camera you have is maxing out at 380mm I think that most dslr camera lines have moderate cost lenses with something in the 75-300mm range.

Since you haven't had a DSLR before are you comfortable with the fact that the avg DSLR will be much bigger and heavier than what you have been used to carrying?