Let's talk exposure

[seashoreCM]

FOr those of you who used Polaroid (instant film) cameras, exposure compensation works like the lighten/darken control. It lets the camera compute its automatic exposure and then overrides that by a small fixed absolute amount you choose.

If you take the same picture but don't aim the camera exactly the same way, the camera's automatic exposure may calculate differently depending on whether the middle of the picture now contains brighter or darker subject matter. This adds to the confusion when you adjust exposure compensation and see no change or an unwanted drastic change. (plus lightens the picture overall and minus darkens the picture overall).

When taking night shots, you almost always want a night setting so the camera doesn't try to calculate a daylight looking picture which is both unnatural for the situation and runs the camera up against its limits resulting in motion blur from a slow shutter and/or graininess from a bumped up ISO. If your camera does not have a "night" setting, minusing out the exposure compensation is a good alternative.

Digital camera hints: http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/digicam.htm

 

[MarkBarbieri]

I use exposure compensation in several situations. When I'm shooting in situations that I know will fool the meter (snow being the example that quickly comes to mind this time of year), I adjust for that. That wouldn't be necessary if I was spot metering, but I don't always have the time or desire to spot meter.

I also adjust it when I'm shooting scenes with limited dynamic range. In those situations, I adjust my exposure compensation upward to shift my exposure up. Cameras record more data at the high end of the exposure range than they do at the low end. If your entire shot will fit within the exposure range, you'll get a better picture by upping your exposure and then correcting it in post-production. Be careful, though. It's like the Price-Is-Right, if you go too high, you lose.

I also adjust it when I'm bracketing. I usually keep my camera set up for 5 shot bracketing. I often find that I want to allocate that exposure range assymetrically, with more shots being under or over the meter reading given the circumstances.

Even in manual, you will use exposure compensation - you can tell it manually to over or under expose the image.

I'm not certain that I follow this. When I'm in manual mode, I control the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture directly. Does exposure compensation get reflected in the meter readings? In that case, I could see it being useful. Otherwise, I'm not clear one what it would do.

I feel the big push to use "Manual" is highly overrated but that's another story.

I have gone from never shooting manual to occasionally shooting manual. There are some situations where I find it useful. It's pretty much mandatory when shooting with studio strobes (unless your strobes can talk to your camera).

It's also useful when you are shooting a series of shots and what consistent lighting for the series. Panoramic shots are a great example of this. You don't want to vary the exposure between the shots.

I also find it useful with the on-camera ETTL flash. I manually set an exposure that I like (typically about one stop below ambient) and use the flash as a supplement. The camera handles the flash level. I suppose this same affect could be achieved by dragging the shutter and using exposure compensation or by using flash compensation alone.

 

[SharonLowe]

I'm not certain that I follow this. When I'm in manual mode, I control the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture directly. Does exposure compensation get reflected in the meter readings? In that case, I could see it being useful. Otherwise, I'm not clear one what it would do.

Yes, you do and you can set the shutter speed or aperture so that your meter reads plus or minus. For example, if I am in manual, have the aperture I want, then I can set the shutter speed so that my meter reads +1 EV. No real different than doing it in aperture or shutter priority mode.

 

[seashoreCM]

The exposure compensation setting in the camera does not bias the meter needle reading and therefore does nothing in a true manual mode.

You are doing the same thing yourself in manual mode that exposure compensation does in automatic mode when you adjust the camera so the meter needle is off center.

 

[boBQuincy]

I have gone from never shooting manual to occasionally shooting manual. There are some situations where I find it useful.

I use Manual exposure for shooting fireworks. Manual focus too, I use autofocus to set it for an object where the fireworks will be and then switch the lens to Manual.
I also use Manual exposure for scenes where the +/-2 stops of the exposure compensation will not be enough, but that's very rare.

 

[AndrewWG]

Well, I guess I get it now. Seems to be a helpful little thing when (for example) you want to keep your aperture or shutter speed constant but know that you will need more or less exposure. It (I assume) will change the aperture or shutter accordingly. These examples are if you are in AV or TV modes. I don't really get how this would work in Manual mode (if at all) but I don't think I would really need it there I suppose. I would just change the setting that means the least to the shot.

Thanks for all the input on this. I still am not sure of it's usefulness to me (what I personally would use it for), but I will play around with it a bit to see what it can do.

 

[MarkBarbieri]

Yes, you do and you can set the shutter speed or aperture so that your meter reads plus or minus. For example, if I am in manual, have the aperture I want, then I can set the shutter speed so that my meter reads +1 EV. No real different than doing it in aperture or shutter priority mode.

OK, I think I just misunderstood you. When I read and said manual mode, I was thinking M and not AV or TV. In AV or TV mode, exposure compensation forces the camera to over or under expose and the amount is reflected in the meter. In M mode, there is no separate exposure compensation feature - you just adjust the shutter speed and aperture however you'd like and the meter always reads the exposure based on what it sees.

 

[Groucho]

Well, if you are amateur, then I am beginner!

Remember that amateur is not a measure of skill, it just means someone who isn't getting paid. As soon as you start photographing to make money, you're a professional, no matter how lousy you are, and no matter how much better many amateurs are.

OK, I think I just misunderstood you. When I read and said manual mode, I was thinking M and not AV or TV. In AV or TV mode, exposure compensation forces the camera to over or under expose and the amount is reflected in the meter. In M mode, there is no separate exposure compensation feature - you just adjust the shutter speed and aperture however you'd like and the meter always reads the exposure based on what it sees.

She is talking about M mode, I believe. If you use EC in M mode, then the meter will read the exposure differently. Ie, say you do +1 EC, then in M mode, you'll need one more stop of light in order to achieve a correct exposure according to the meter.

The other time it matters in M mode is if you do an auto-adjust in M mode - on my camera, it's an AE-L button; on some others it's the green button. Whatever it looks like, in M mode, it will quickly set the shutter speed and aperture to what it thinks you need for the situation, and you can adjust them from there. Kind of the exposure version of the rear focus button that some of you insist works so well.

Other Disney-specific times where EC is handy... SpectroMagic (I do positive EC to bring out some detail of the floats, not just the lights), and dark rides (I do a little negative, this gives you a faster shutter speed as well as more correctly exposure the scene as dark, just like it really is.)

 

[handicap18]

Well, I guess I get it now. Seems to be a helpful little thing when (for example) you want to keep your aperture or shutter speed constant but know that you will need more or less exposure. It (I assume) will change the aperture or shutter accordingly. These examples are if you are in AV or TV modes. I don't really get how this would work in Manual mode (if at all) but I don't think I would really need it there I suppose. I would just change the setting that means the least to the shot.

Thanks for all the input on this. I still am not sure of it's usefulness to me (what I personally would use it for), but I will play around with it a bit to see what it can do.

Take a picture of some trees covered in snow. Use aperture priority at say f/5.6 or f/8. Let the camera select the shutter. Then use EC in 1/3 stops in both directions to 1. See what kind of a difference it makes. Like someone else said, since our camera's are geared to grey they have a problem with true whites and true blacks. This is where EC can come in handy. I think with my camera that a +2/3 EC for snow works best.

I use it occassionally. Some people use it full time as they like the results better and don't want to use manual mode. For some people it has to do with what kind of film they used back in the day. Some films overexposed slightly and some underexposed slightly.

Some have recommended a -1 EC when shooting SpectroMagic to force the camera to give you a faster shutter if you use aperture priority. Though you could do the same thing in Manual mode: ie; if in Aperture priority you get 1/30th at f/1.8, then do a -1 EC you'll get 1/60th. Or you could just go into Manual and put those settings in. Though when in aperture priority if you get a brighter float it will automatically adjust the shutter whereas in Manual mode you'll have to remember to adjust the shutter by paying closer attention to your meter in your viewfinder. With the floats moving kind of fast and your paying attention to other things EC might give you 1 less thing to worry about.

 

[SrisonS]

I know that quite a few people use this book to help develop their photography skills. Ever take a pic that's "similar" to one you've seen in the book?!?!? Well, let's see it......or any other pic you were inspired to take, just from your readings. Doesn't have to be Disney related.


While at the Flower & Garden Fest, I was taking pictures of some of the flowers in Italy. While kneeling down to take some pics of something else, I noticed these flowers against the blue/clouded sky, and was immediately taken back to my viewing on page 45 in the book. (Wow, that whole statment sounded kinda Bryan Peterson-ish!!!)

 

[S. C.]

Very nice!

 

[MouseFaninQueue]

Ok so who else raced to grab their copy of the book and check out the pic on Page 45?

Very nice pic and yes it is quite similar to the pic Bryan took.

I can't wait to head to the Flower and Garden show next week!!

 

[oliviansmom17]

It's me again!
So, I've been reading "Understanding Exposure"...over & over & over...
How/where in the viewfinder does it tell me that I have a "correct" exposure?
Thanks in advance for any help

 

[MICKEY88]

it all depends on your camera... it should tell you that in the manual...

 

[Marty Moose]

I almost posted this same question today! I'm not sure how to figure that out on my camera either (Sony A300).

MICKEY88 - Is it the histogram that shows that the exposure is correct? Or another function? I'm sure it's in the manuals...but is there a name for the function?

Sorry...I'm a newbie too and pretty clueless!

TIA!

 

[cpbjgc]

If you have a Rebel XTi, the information can be found on page 19 of the operating instructions booklet. Essentially there is a series of bars along the botttom of your viewfinder view which shows the exposure (going from -2 on the left to 2 on the right). One of the bars is brighter than the others showing where the exposure is on the scale, with 0 being the "correct" exposure.

 

[oliviansmom17]

Nikon D80 -
The manual wasn't clear to me that the scale within the viewfinder indicated a correct exposure at 0. I thought perhaps that was it, and now I know for sure! Thanks, cpbjgc.
...guess I was a little slow to figure it out...

 

[MICKEY88]

I almost posted this same question today! I'm not sure how to figure that out on my camera either (Sony A300).

MICKEY88 - Is it the histogram that shows that the exposure is correct? Or another function? I'm sure it's in the manuals...but is there a name for the function?

Sorry...I'm a newbie too and pretty clueless!

TIA!

it probably is listed under meter in the manual..

you should see this in your viewfinder..

generally 0 would be a correct exposure, however there are exceptions to that, a very heavily backlit subject if shot on zero would be a silouette.. a +1 or +2 would yield a better exposed subject in this situation,

also a typical baby in a white tub, since camera goes for 18% grey, would be underexposed at 0 a +1 or+2 would be better,


a woman in a black dress, standing in front of a black wall,,camera would try to lighten to grey, so at 0 would be over exposed.. a -1 or -2 would actually be a better exposure..

 

[Marty Moose]

it probably is listed under meter in the manual..

you should see this in your viewfinder..

generally 0 would be a correct exposure, however there are exceptions to that, a very heavily backlit subject if shot on zero would be a silouette.. a +1 or +2 would yield a better exposed subject in this situation,

also a typical baby in a white tub, since camera goes for 18% grey, would be underexposed at 0 a +1 or+2 would be better,


a woman in a black dress, standing in front of a black wall,,camera would try to lighten to grey, so at 0 would be over exposed.. a -1 or -2 would actually be a better exposure..

Thank you so much! I've played around with the meter and knew that it was something I could adjust, but I didn't realize the extent of it's use.

I'm off to play with it now!!

Thanks again.

 

[barrie]

Nikon D80 -
The manual wasn't clear to me that the scale within the viewfinder indicated a correct exposure at 0. I thought perhaps that was it, and now I know for sure! Thanks, cpbjgc.
...guess I was a little slow to figure it out...

You weren't slow at all! This has baffled me for the past 2 years but I was always too embarrassed to ask. I've done countless searches, read a dozen books and studied the manuals on several cameras and nowhere could I find anything that explained what "until your camera indicates the correct exposure" actually meant. No kidding, it's been driving me nuts. Thanks for having the guts to ask!