Just a reminder about the sleeve length of the YCMT pattern! And, I do the shirring on the sleeves before I sew the sleeve up. Here are some great tips that I used:
Shirring Tips:
Using elastic thread is an easy way to create fabric gathers, a technique known as shirring. The thread comes in black or white, and is used on the fabric wrong side.
Hand-wind the elastic thread onto the bobbin. If working with a sheer or lightweight fabric, slightly stretch the thread as you wind. For all other fabrics, wind the thread without stretching it. Use coordinating non-elastic thread in the needle.
Set the machine to the longest straight stitch possible. Test stitch on scrap fabric. Hold the fabric taut while stitching, but don't pull it through the machine. Adjust the upper tension as desired (usually looser than normal) I set mine on 0.
Determine the desired distance between the shirred rows. Mark each stitching line with a water- or air-soluble marking pen (1). Align the fabric and stitch the first row as directed above. Don't backstitch at the beginning or end of the row. I mark my first row, then use my pressure foot as a guide for the rest of them. I'm guessing it's about 1/4" between rows.
After stitching the row, clip the thread, leaving long thread tails. Pull the top thread through to the fabric wrong side. Knot the threads together to secure, and then trim the thread ends close to the knot.
To stitch the next row, place the fabric at the desired distance from the first row. Hold the fabric taut and stitch. You might have to stop periodically to even out the fabric.To do this, keep the needle down in the fabric and raise the presser foot. The more rows stitched, the more gathered the fabric becomes.
To shirr a cylindrical shape, such as a dress bodice, start at the upper edge and stitch horizontally around the fabric cylinder until you've reached the desired shirred width (2).
When the bobbin thread runs out, clip the needle thread and pull it to the wrong side, and knot the threads. Wind more thread onto the bobbin and begin stitching where the previous thread ended.
From the May 2006 issue of Sew News magazine.
Gotcha!!! So, it's just a rectangle, not tapered on the ends?