Lots to report. Here are the first few days.
5/12 fly to Paris
Our flight left Kansas City late. We made it to Chicago with little time to spare. There was a woman on the jetway holding a sign with our names on it. She shouted which way to go and we were off. We rushed to the gate, got seated and they shut the door. We both got some sleep during the flight.
5/13
We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport, printed some Euros and headed for the TGV train station. Initially confused because two trains were listed on our track. Made it on board with a few minutes to spare. We got better at this! The train is FAST up to 200 mph. We reached Aix-en-Provence in a few hours and Uncle Manfred was waiting to greet us. His home is about 40 kilometers away and we set off.
Sue's Uncle Manfred's home - over the garage door is a large, ceramic cicada. More on those later.
Dinner that evening was at one of his favorite restaurants in Lourmarin. He is a well known diner.
Appetizer plate -
We talked into the evening and went to bed. His home has a guest suite upstairs. We slept with the window open.
View through the open window -
5/14
I wanted to run. Manfred took me along to the bakery so I could see the main roads. We returned to his home and I ran some loops around Lauris. Passed by a couple people several times. They seemed puzzled by me. After croissants for breakfast we went through the mountains to Apt. We toured the market. We saw wheels of cheese the size of spare tires, a great variety of local produce and products and lots of cicadas. Not actual blaring cicadas, but ceramic ones, wax ones, soap ones. The cicada is the state insect.
Sue and Manfred -
Ate at The Bamboothai near Luberon. The restaurant is on the terrace behind Le Paradou. This B&B is run by a couple that Manfred is friendly with. The husband is German and the wife Thai. She enjoys speaking English with Manfred. The setting is beautiful.
When we returned to Lauris we toured the chalet. The community maintains beautiful gardens here. The building is used by artists. We saw a wedding party leaving the church. We strolled the narrow streets of the old part of town.
Our next destination was the supermarket. We picked out dinner stuff and Sue was delighted to find a dachshund in a shopping cart. Lu-Lu was shopping in frozen foods! Pictures were taken. The product selection mimics Wal-mart - food, clothing and lawn chairs. We had cassis sorbet for dessert. I think thats the name of the fruit, a dark smooth skinned berry that made a deep purple sorbet.
5/15 Lauris
Today we traveled to Fontaine-de-Vaucluse. Fontaine-de-Vaucluse ("spring of Vaucluse") is built around a spring in a valley at the foot of the Vaucluse Mountains. It is the source of the River Sorgue.
The fountain, or spring, of Vaucluse, situated at the feet of a steep cliff 230 metres high, is the biggest spring in France. This village of 600 inhabitants was once called Vaucluse or the closed valley (Vallis Clausa in Latin) and it gave its name to the French department of Vaucluse. Following major discoveries from two cave dives performed by the Spelunking Society of Fontaine Vaucluse, two archaeological sites have produced more than 1600 antique coins from the first century BC to the 5th century AD.
Gorgeous scenery and crystal clear, COLD water. There were dachshunds here, too. A pair!
The River Sorgue divides and reconnects throughout the valley. We went to L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue famous for antique shops and a lively weekend market. We strolled and helped Manfred shop for a siphon bottle. A friend in Germany wants Manfred to bring one when he visits soon. Mission accomplished. We had foudue for lunch.
We continued on to Arles (?). Strolled the art market. Later dinner at Manfreds home and laundry as we prepare to continue the trip.
5/16 La Spezia
Our trip would continue on the train from Avignon and we saved today to tour the Palace of the Popes.
Avignon became the residence of the Popes in 1309, when the Gascon Bertrand de Goth, as Pope Clement V, unwilling to face the violent chaos of Rome after his election (1305), moved the Papal Curia to Avignon, a period known as the Avignon Papacy. The site, on a natural rocky outcrop at the northern edge of Avignon, overlooking the river Rhône, was that of the old episcopal palace of the bishops of Avignon.
The Palais was subsequently taken over by the Napoleonic French state for use as a military barracks and prison. Although it was further damaged by the military occupation, especially under the anti-clerical Third Republic, when the remaining interior woodwork was cleared away for use of the structure as a stables the frescos were covered over and largely destroyed ironically this ensured the shell of the building's physical survival. It was only vacated in 1906, when it became a national museum. It has been under virtually constant restoration ever since. The majority of the Palais is now open to the public; it also houses a large convention centre and the archives of the département of Vaucluse.
We picked up some sandwiches for the train ride our first food purchases Manfred was very generous durning our stay.
Lots of trains today. Four trains in all with the stations getting progressively smaller. We finally reached La Spezia, Italy around 11:30 p.m.
5/17 La Spezia
Fixing my glasses with duct tape. That's all I'm going to say about that.
Ronda got out early this morning and found an incredible chocolate filled croissant. Other croissants could never live up to this croissant. Today began a string of great breakfast buffets. We ate well and headed for the train station. The GPS app that I put on my phone worked well. We can do wonders with a map if something tells us where we are! The walk to the station was 20 minutes and we bought a ticket that would get us up and down the Cinque Terre line.
The Cinque Terre is a rugged portion of coast on the Italian Riviera, to the west of the city of La Spezia. "The Five Lands" is composed of five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.
The Cinque Terre is noted for its beauty and every view was worthy of a postcard. Over centuries, people have carefully built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the sea. Paths, trains and boats connect the villages, and cars cannot reach them from the outside.
We took the train to the end, Monterosso al Mare. We walked the village and checked out the beach. After lunch we hit the trail to Vernazza. It was amazing and beautiful. Words really do fail to describe the constant beauty of the landscape. The hike was invigorating. Either straight up or straight down, it required concentration to place your feet. There were places that if you fell from the trail the next stop would be the sea. I understand why the crayon is Mediterrean Blue.
We took the train to Corniglia. It does not sit at the waters edge. There are steps leading to the village at the top of the cliff. Theres a bus. We were hard core and walked up. Back the the train station and on to Manarola. We had dinner here. The setting sun made the colors deepen. Again beautiful. After returning to La Spezia, we retraced our path from the morning back to the hotel.
5/18 Rome
We trained to Rome and took a taxi to our hotel. It was right around the corner from the Vatican. The traffic was a sight to behold. Manfred warned us about it and he was right. Cross with the light and even then be vigilant. At red lights the scooters would weave to the front of the pack and then take off with a great buzz. Lane markings are for informational purposes only. The drivers must be used to it because we saw few damaged vehicles.
We found dinner and strolled the neighborhood into the evening. We walked the northern Vatican wall and found the lineup area for the Vatican musuem.
Tomorrow we go to the museum.
Ronda