How to shoot fireworks

Tripod, Tripod, Tripod...(With a Remote Shutter Release)

f8 or more, 4-10 seconds, ISO 100.... at least I used settings (Backyard fireworks settings). I'm no pro but that was the basis of what I used. I'd practice before you go to...
 
A tripod is a must. A remote shutter release is also very important. If you do not know how to yet, learn how to use manual mode and possibly bulb mode. In general I would say go with something in the ISO 100-200 range, aperture of around f/10-12 and at least a two second exposure.
 
Another little tip (which actually might be in your manual) for tripod shooting in general is to turn off image stabilizaton. Your camera would bascially be completely stable already, so the IS gears might hurt your image sharpness some.
 

The shot below was taken at f/10, 3.2 second shutter speed and ISO 100

_MG_7783.jpg
 
You could also use a fast lens and get a more of an actual shot of the show. I actually prefer fireworks shots that mimic what you would see if you were watching the show. Although you will have to fight the sun flare effect you get with single fireworks that are really bright, but usually it doesn't happen that often.

It's just a matter of preference.
 
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What kind of lenses are you using to get these shots? I have the stock 18-55mm lens what came with my Canon Rebel XS, as well as a 75-300mm zoom lens. Do you find getting a wide picture works well (with post-processing, crop, etc) or is it better to zoom fairly tight in off the get-go?

Thanks! (I'm a camera newbie, but am learning a lot from her)
 
I know that this subject has been posted many times, but I couldn't find the basic thread so please let me ask the question.

Besides using a tripod, what are the suggested settings for shooting fireworks at WDW. Also any suggestions about lenses?

Finally, I was thinking of trying to shoot some shots from the observation deck at BLT. Has anyone tried that location? Does it work or is it a waste of time? If it has worked, any suggestions about lenses and settings?
 
I know that this subject has been posted many times, but I couldn't find the basic thread so please let me ask the question.

Besides using a tripod, what are the suggested settings for shooting fireworks at WDW. Also any suggestions about lenses?

Finally, I was thinking of trying to shoot some shots from the observation deck at BLT. Has anyone tried that location? Does it work or is it a waste of time? If it has worked, any suggestions about lenses and settings?

You can find lots of photos of Wishes on Flickr. Like this one shot from BLT.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32852096@N05/4474211948/

Or this one shot from the Contemporary:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/benhewitt/3646558519/

Most of the photos on Flickr allow you to see their settings.

Here are the settings from the last one:
Exposure: 5
Aperture: f/14.0
Focal Length: 200 mm

Those will at least give you a starting point!
 
My suggestion, based primarily on the many threads here ;) is a few simple steps:

  • Choose your location
  • Set up the tripod - very important!
  • Connect you remote shutter trigger
  • Expose on the Castle - in my view, without a nice sharp foreground point, the fireworks will just look - meh -
  • Decide if you want trails on the fireworks or just bursts
  • If you want trails do an exposure on the Castle that gives you a nice exposure on 2 seconds.
  • If you want bursts only do an exposure on the Castle that gives you a nice exposure on 1/40 or less
  • Focus on the Castle and wait for Wishes to start.
  • Snap at will using your remote shutter trigger. I like trails, so I set my trigger to bulb and hold the remote on for 2 second count.
The other reason I like the remote is I can actually watch Wishes instead of fiddling with the camera.

Sample pic:
Wishes_2_resized.jpg


Wishes_3_resized.jpg


As for shooting from Californnia Grill, I did that last trip. You will need a longer lens (I would say 200mm minimum) to get a more pleasing composition. I didn't really like the pics I got too much as I find them to be a bit too busy for my taste - too much going on and too many other structures (e.g Space Mountain), but YMMV.
 
So I am guessing that you have to put your lens on MF? If we want to practice at home without a castle, what would you focus on?
 
It's like anything else, practice makes perfect. Dont expect to get brilliant shots your first time.

I'd also recommend a remote release, they aren't expensive. If your camera has a bulb or manual shutter setting that will allow you to keep the shutter open for as long as you have the button down, look into it.

Its hard to practice before the fact but you can get used to the shutter release by setting your camera up on the tripod in the evening and getting some shots of passing cars.

Once you get your tripod setup at the Disney fireworks show, take a couple of test shots of the castle or whatever you plan to have in the foreground and adjust your exposure settings appropriately (keeping in mind that you'll have something very bright in the final shots).
 
So I am guessing that you have to put your lens on MF? If we want to practice at home without a castle, what would you focus on?

I practiced at Canada Day celebrations - the main "fireworks" holiday here, which were at our City Park, where there is a Castel-like building. Any local fireworks happening before your trip? Check them out (bringing your camera, tripod and remote) and use it as a test run!

As for the manual focus, that would be best. Though on the shots I posted I had forgotten to switch to manual so I focused each shot. My focus was fixed on the castle, which was pretty bright for the AF system, so it was never an issue. Half press to focus and away you go!
 
Reflections of Earth:


I guess my tip would be to use either a neutral density filter or a polarizing filter so allow longer exposure times. This one was 10 sec @ f/10 ISO 100. Typically a 10 second exposure would blow out too many highlights but the polarizer I was using gave me at least one full stop of additional exposure time.
 
Reflections of Earth:


I guess my tip would be to use either a neutral density filter or a polarizing filter so allow longer exposure times. This one was 10 sec @ f/10 ISO 100. Typically a 10 second exposure would blow out too many highlights but the polarizer I was using gave me at least one full stop of additional exposure time.

That is absolutely gorgeous!

I hadn't considered using my polarizer. But if you were going this route and shooting over the castle, would you use the darker half toward the top for the fireworks or the bottom for the castle?

Are the neutral density filters all graduated, or do some offer the same coverage all the way across? I ended this last trip vowing to learn more about these. Thanks again for sharing all of your amazing shots!
 
I guess my tip would be to use either a neutral density filter or a polarizing filter so allow longer exposure times. This one was 10 sec @ f/10 ISO 100. Typically a 10 second exposure would blow out too many highlights but the polarizer I was using gave me at least one full stop of additional exposure time.
Based on your settings, why bother with a polarizer? Just stop down to F14 and you'll lose a full stop that way - without the bother of screwing on a filter and the potential IQ loss from shooting through additional glass.

The real problem is that, by and large, the static objects in Disney fireworks shows tend to change brightness as the show goes on (this is more true for the castle shows than Illuminations, where there's no actual structure lit up, just the spinning globe which will overavoidably be blurred and lit fountains and some light outlines on buildings), so what may be good for some shots isn't good for others... and of course, sometimes you want a short exposure (if a lot of fireworks are going at once), sometimes you want a long one. IMHO, you are pretty much doomed to occasionally get the static objects over and underexposed unless you both memorize the fireworks show including the lighting of the static objects and make multiple aperture and/or ISO adjustments in order to optimize each individual shot - and I'm certainly not willing to go through that much work. It's over the top enough to swap lenses twice during Illuminations! (From wide to telephoto for globe photos then back to wide.)

I have been tending to go for a slightly smaller aperture lately - F11 usually - which helps keep some of the fireworks from being blown out as much. From there, in Lightroom, I usually do slight "Recovery" to bring back some highlights, usually cool the color slightly (most come through at 4900, I move to closer to 3300 or so), then bump up the saturation, which brings back the color "pop" lost from the white balance change. If there is stuff in the foreground, I'll sometimes add a little fill light, too.
 
Based on your settings, why bother with a polarizer? Just stop down to F14 and you'll lose a full stop that way - without the bother of screwing on a filter and the potential IQ loss from shooting through additional glass.

The real problem is that, by and large, the static objects in Disney fireworks shows tend to change brightness as the show goes on (this is more true for the castle shows than Illuminations, where there's no actual structure lit up, just the spinning globe which will overavoidably be blurred and lit fountains and some light outlines on buildings), so what may be good for some shots isn't good for others... and of course, sometimes you want a short exposure (if a lot of fireworks are going at once), sometimes you want a long one. IMHO, you are pretty much doomed to occasionally get the static objects over and underexposed unless you both memorize the fireworks show including the lighting of the static objects and make multiple aperture and/or ISO adjustments in order to optimize each individual shot - and I'm certainly not willing to go through that much work. It's over the top enough to swap lenses twice during Illuminations! (From wide to telephoto for globe photos then back to wide.)

I have been tending to go for a slightly smaller aperture lately - F11 usually - which helps keep some of the fireworks from being blown out as much. From there, in Lightroom, I usually do slight "Recovery" to bring back some highlights, usually cool the color slightly (most come through at 4900, I move to closer to 3300 or so), then bump up the saturation, which brings back the color "pop" lost from the white balance change. If there is stuff in the foreground, I'll sometimes add a little fill light, too.

:rolleyes: It was only a tip, Groucho. The results speak for themselves in this case. I have a 10 second exposure with minimal blowouts while keeping the aperture at an acceptable level. I'm not suggesting that it works for everyone in every situation but if you can achieve a longer exposure without dropping the aperture out of the sweet spot, why not do it? My CP filter is good enough that IQ loss is not an issue.
 
I got a chance to shoot some fireworks on Saturday night and took 135 captures and only kept 19 :( I am not sure why some of them came out blurry? I had my camera on a tripod and ISO 200 my F-stop was 11 and my shutter was set to bulb. I was wondering if I should have used a wider lens and not my sigma 70-300, or if I just shot it for to long. If some one can help me that would be great.

Blurry
IMG_0028_12.jpg

The next ones would have to be considered the best of the bunch. Thats for the time and helping me out!
IMG_0011-1.jpg

IMG_0005_12.jpg

IMG_0044-1.jpg


Thanks again:thumbsup2
 





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