WDWFigment
DIS Veteran
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 2,245
Great, great tutorial, Mark. I can't wait to go back in September and utilize some of your pointers.
You know if you're going to utilize the pointers, it's a well written written tutorial on dark rides. I would say you’re one of the top 3 dark ride shooters (along with Gdad and Joe Penniston) out there right now.
A few more suggestions that I would offer…
Dark rides can be technologically-prohibitive. They are one of the few things (SpectroMagic is the other that quickly comes to mind), that are less dependent on the “12 inches behind the camera” than they are on the camera and lens you are using. A DSLR is almost a bare minimum for most dark rides. I had trouble with an entry level D40, although the newer entry levels have better high-ISO capabilities. A intermediate level DSLR works well, and an FX camera is the ultimate tool. Of course, you will also need a f/1.8 or f/1.4 lens (or f/1.2!) for the best results. Compositionally, I think a 50mm on a DX camera is about as far as long as I would want to go. The wider, the better.
I think aperture priority with intelligent auto-ISO is the best way to go. This way, I set the aperture (for the darkest rides—Haunted Mansion, PotC, and Peter Pan’s Flight this is f/1.4) as well as a minimum shutter speed, and ISO ceiling, and let the camera take it from there. It will then raise the ISO before lowering the shutter speed, and will only lower it to the minimum shutter speed (usually 1/40 for me). If the ride stops, I switch it to manual mode and usually go with 1/20 shutter. I use aperture priority because I think increasing the shutter speed, if possible, is more important to success on a dark ride than increasing the aperture if possible. A matter of preference, I suppose.
I also use -1-2 EV, but for a different reason. I use it because I know I can recover a good deal of light in RAW post processing. I believe Bryan Peterson coined the term “the Anti-ND filter” for doing this (although I don’t think he was referring to Disney Dark Rides, in particular). Another important post processing technique is going to be adjusting your highlights. You might have a lot of blown highlights depending on how you metered, so the “Recovery” slider will be important. For both of these reasons, shooting RAW on dark rides is essential.
Another important thing is to use manual focus or auto-focus “continuous”. I use AF-C because I am lazy, but I think I might give manual focusing a try for the HM caretaker scene (excellent work, Mark!). AF-C (and its Canon equivalent) keeps the lens continuously focusing as you move throughout the attraction. Since you aren’t photographing static scenes, this can be helpful so that you don’t get something in focus, only to find that you or the scene moved, and your image is blurred.
I think Mark and Todd have covered everything else I would say. I know a lot of this is written for DSLR users, but besides ISAW and a few others, that’s really the target user audience, anyway.
Here are some shots I’ve taken on dark rides. All were taken with a Nikon D40, and most were using a Sigma 30mm f/1.4 lens. The firste from Haunted Mansion is actually with the 18-200 VR lens (before I got the 30…). You can get EXIF data by clicking on the images, which will take you to their respective Flickr pages.










