Car Guru's

Let's say the battery does test bad. They replace the battery, car starts up and passes all the tests. You come pick it up. In a day, a week, or six months, you have the same issue. So it could be the battery was actually GOOD, but something caused it to fail. Replacing the battery just put a bandaid on the problem, didn't really fix it. That would be worst case, I know, but it just dawned on me.

A friend said I could have AAA try a jump start to see if it worked (the call was sent as a jump start) but I was afraid that it would just happen again and wanted it taken to the dealer again.

I'd say worse case is that it keeps happening and they can't figure out what the issue was. When I searched 2024 Trailblazer electrical issues I got several results about lemon laws. That didn't give me great confidence.
 
Unfortunately both Toyota and Honda are having major engine issues right now.
Haven't seen anything about that. That isn't great either.
I had Toyotas as company fleet cars in the 1970s........all were Corollas or pickups, and they were rolling tin cans with cardboard door panels. However, they I never had one break down on me.....just cheap interior parts fall off.
I had a 2000 Toyota for 13 years and never had any mechanical issues with it. The only thing I ever had to have done was replace tires, brakes, battery (once).
 
If a new car and only 6 months old, I would certainly let the dealer check out what might be wrong. Trying to jump it and/or fix on your own seems like advice when it would clearly be covered under warranty. Could be bad battery, some sort of faulty electrical connection or similar issue. If many unrelated electrical components all malfunction at the same time seems to point to an electrical issue. Dealers have test equipment to diagnose what is wrong and usually there is a code they can investigate. They will record what work is done and if the problem happens again, it will already be in their database as being worked on previously.
 

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Some. Not all. My mechanic says he can tell without looking at the label on the door which were made in Japan.
Of course. The point is US Built Toyotas are really nothing new. Based on the above stats (and personal experience), I'd still take a Toyota (even one built in the US) over a Ford, Chrysler, Dodge, or GM.
 
Of course. The point is US Built Toyotas are really nothing new. Based on the above stats (and personal experience), I'd still take a Toyota (even one built in the US) over a Ford, Chrysler, Dodge, or GM.
I have a 2018 Canadian built Ford with 30,000 miles on it. Other than replacing the junky Hankook tires it came with, no issues. I traded in a Chevy we had for 31 years.
My wife has a 2020 U.S built Toyota with 30,000 miles. We traded in a Mercury we had 21 years.
At age 68, not sure I will ever be buying another car given we are retired now and drive so little.
Oh, I also have a 60 year old Ford in my garage.
 
Some. Not all. My mechanic says he can tell without looking at the label on the door which were made in Japan.
It used to be that all Toyota (and Lexus) with VIN numbers that started with a J were made in Japan. I’m not sure if that is still the case these days.
 
It used to be that all Toyota (and Lexus) with VIN numbers that started with a J were made in Japan. I’m not sure if that is still the case these days.
There is a sticker on the drivers door jam that states when and where the car was made and basic information like how much cargo it can carry.
But yes, the first digit of the vin also confirms that.
J if built in Japan
1,4 or 5 means U.S.
2 Canada
3 Mexico
Mine starts with a 5.
 
I have a 2018 Canadian built Ford with 30,000 miles on it. Other than replacing the junky Hankook tires it came with, no issues. I traded in a Chevy we had for 31 years.
My wife has a 2020 U.S built Toyota with 30,000 miles. We traded in a Mercury we had 21 years.
At age 68, not sure I will ever be buying another car given we are retired now and drive so little.
Oh, I also have a 60 year old Ford in my garage.
I wouldn't expect ANY car with only 30k miles on it to have issues. DD is driving a 2007 Camry Hybrid (~125k(?) miles) that's doing well (knock on wood).

Our family has had really good luck with Toyotas so far. That's all I'm going to say so I don't jinx us. lol
 
I wouldn't expect ANY car with only 30k miles on it to have issues. DD is driving a 2007 Camry Hybrid (~125k(?) miles) that's doing well (knock on wood).

Our family has had really good luck with Toyotas so far. That's all I'm going to say so I don't jinx us. lol
No kidding. No jinxes wanted. My first car was a 1974 Pinto. Had it 16 years. Outgrew it and the week we traded it in, my wife's car was in the shop, and our spare car was in the shop. The car we were getting rid of was the only one functioning property. I think that Pinto was trying to make the case for us not getting rid of it.
 
I just got back from a visit to the dealer shop. They haven't even looked at it yet. BUT it appears that things are working again. I went by because I had things in the back cargo area and needed them. We walked right up the vehicle and the trunk opened right up. The interior lights worked. The key fob was able to lock the car. We did not test if the instrument panel & infotainment system worked.

My prediction is that they won't be able to figure out what was wrong and then in a few days, weeks or whatever it will happen again. Hopefully NOT when I am out of town.
 
My prediction is that they won't be able to figure out what was wrong and then in a few days, weeks or whatever it will happen again. Hopefully NOT when I am out of town.
Time to get a 10mm wrench to keep in the car so you can easily remove the negative cable from the battery for a few minutes to force the car to reboot when it happens again.
 
If service hasn't done anything, I'm guessing loose wire connection. Getting towed jostled things around so it made connection, allowing things tow work. Not sure the best way to test for something like that though.
 














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