Canon's 16-35f2.8II vs 16-35F4 IS

[Skywise]

I've got a Canon 6D and the 16-35f2.8II lens which I used in my last few DW trips to get some great night shots and spectacular video of the fireworks.

My primary shooting interests are night photography and/or indoor scenery so I'm always looking for an F2.8 lens to start (I do outside scenery too but just about any decent lens will cover my needs for that).

The new Canon 16-35 F4 with IS is out and getting rave reviews with image quality being on-par with the f2.8 model and in some cases BETTER (especially in the corners) (and it's almost 50% cheaper than the f2.8 model!)

The IS would definitely help with my videoing (and trying to take indoor shots without a tripod) but I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to lose much light resolution with the F4 vs F2.8 which is more important to me.

Anyone have any opinions?

 

[photo_chick]

That's a tough choice.

I've gone more with f/4 lenses (28-105, 70-200) with my 6D because the ISO performance will let me get by with it most of the time. But there are still a few occasions when I end up renting an f/2.8 lens because nothing can replace that wider aperture in some instances. Mostly when I'm shooting dance a couple of times a year.

 

[SkaGoat]

I've got a Canon 6D and the 16-35f2.8II lens which I used in my last few DW trips to get some great night shots and spectacular video of the fireworks.

My primary shooting interests are night photography and/or indoor scenery so I'm always looking for an F2.8 lens to start (I do outside scenery too but just about any decent lens will cover my needs for that).

The new Canon 16-35 F4 with IS is out and getting rave reviews with image quality being on-par with the f2.8 model and in some cases BETTER (especially in the corners) (and it's almost 50% cheaper than the f2.8 model!)

The IS would definitely help with my videoing (and trying to take indoor shots without a tripod) but I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to lose much light resolution with the F4 vs F2.8 which is more important to me.

Anyone have any opinions?

My question would be, the subjects you are shooting in low light, are they moving?

The IS will help camera shake, allowing you to take handheld shots with slower shutter speeds than usual. But, if you need a fast enough shutter to freeze action, then IS won't help.

 

[Skywise]

My question would be, the subjects you are shooting in low light, are they moving?

The IS will help camera shake, allowing you to take handheld shots with slower shutter speeds than usual. But, if you need a fast enough shutter to freeze action, then IS won't help.

No, mostly it's going to be landscaping for photos and videoing for moving subjects (fireworks).

I figure I'm going to lose some of the black/dark details shooting f4 vs f2.8 but I can compensate that with a higher ISO on the 6D.

Although I've done pretty well doing handheld with just the 2.8 for photos - Aside from minimizing camera shake with the IS (and better corners) I'm not sure there's much need for me to switch lenses. (Probably just going to have to rent the lens to find out!)

 

[WilsonFlyer]

I just got a 6D with the 24-105/4L. I have a 70-200/2.8L. What I have found is that you can jack the ISO up so high on the 6D that the extra stop really doesn't matter as much as it used to and the depth of field is so much bigger. The darn thing will focus (center-point) in the dark!

That's from playing around here at home because I've only had it for a couple of weeks. I'll know a lot more in 7 days about how it works in FL but I admit I have high expectations at this point. Hopefully, not unreasonable and I won't be disappointed. We shall see. The best news is soon. That kinda trumps everything else. WDW has a way of fixing disappointing things anyway.

 

[justinlauck]

You'll lose a lot of light. Half of the light.

Since you are doing landscape type shots and not action, it should not matter much. The 3-4 stops you should gain with the VR/IS will easily compensate, probably even get you brighter photos.

If you are doing night photography, chances are you are using a tripod and neither VR/IS nor fast shutter speeds are necessary. For fireworks I usually stop down to f/8 anyway. That is where my lens is the sharpest.

 

[bob100]

I've got a Canon 6D and the 16-35f2.8II lens which I used in my last few DW trips to get some great night shots and spectacular video of the fireworks.

My primary shooting interests are night photography and/or indoor scenery so I'm always looking for an F2.8 lens to start (I do outside scenery too but just about any decent lens will cover my needs for that).

The new Canon 16-35 F4 with IS is out and getting rave reviews with image quality being on-par with the f2.8 model and in some cases BETTER (especially in the corners) (and it's almost 50% cheaper than the f2.8 model!)

The IS would definitely help with my videoing (and trying to take indoor shots without a tripod) but I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to lose much light resolution with the F4 vs F2.8 which is more important to me.

Anyone have any opinions?

F2.8 is certainly better if you're shooting night and indoors but for video image stabilization is very helpful. maybe try renting before buying

 

[Skywise]

I just got a 6D with the 24-105/4L. I have a 70-200/2.8L. What I have found is that you can jack the ISO up so high on the 6D that the extra stop really doesn't matter as much as it used to and the depth of field is so much bigger. The darn thing will focus (center-point) in the dark!

That's from playing around here at home because I've only had it for a couple of weeks. I'll know a lot more in 7 days about how it works in FL but I admit I have high expectations at this point. Hopefully, not unreasonable and I won't be disappointed. We shall see. The best news is soon. That kinda trumps everything else. WDW has a way of fixing disappointing things anyway.

BTW, if you're going to be there video-ing fireworks I HIGHLY recommend the Rode Stereo Videomic Pro. I've used it on my T4i and now my 6D for several fireworks shows at Disney and the stereo separation and (more importantly) bass capture are fantastic. I got the SWW fireworks show last trip and the music/'splosions are phenomenal. I also ran the video through Lightroom, dropping the exposure a few ticks (even after I had dropped the exposure 1 stop in camera) and boosting the vibrance. Wow!

 

[Skywise]

You'll lose a lot of light. Half of the light.

Since you are doing landscape type shots and not action, it should not matter much. The 3-4 stops you should gain with the VR/IS will easily compensate, probably even get you brighter photos.

If you are doing night photography, chances are you are using a tripod and neither VR/IS nor fast shutter speeds are necessary. For fireworks I usually stop down to f/8 anyway. That is where my lens is the sharpest.

Yeah, that's the conundrum. Although I rarely carry a tripod around with me in DW - I've got pretty steady hands so I can get by except for the occasional trick shots (and I've trained myself to zoom the display after shooting to be sure! ) and the IS would more than compensate for that.

I guess my real question is, am I going to lose more intricate lighting detail in the fireworks by not videoing at F2.8 (even with the sensor auto-shifting the light balance)

 

[photo_chick]

I just got a 6D with the 24-105/4L. I have a 70-200/2.8L. What I have found is that you can jack the ISO up so high on the 6D that the extra stop really doesn't matter as much as it used to and the depth of field is so much bigger. The darn thing will focus (center-point) in the dark!

That's from playing around here at home because I've only had it for a couple of weeks. I'll know a lot more in 7 days about how it works in FL but I admit I have high expectations at this point. Hopefully, not unreasonable and I won't be disappointed. We shall see. The best news is soon. That kinda trumps everything else. WDW has a way of fixing disappointing things anyway.

I used my 24-105 at 12800 on some dark rides to see how far it would go and to get wider shots than my primes allow. A fast prime is still a better choice for dark ride shooting but my standard zoom was fun to play with. To have the ability to use an f/4 at all on some of the dark rides really shows how far ISO performance has come.

6D, 24-105 f/4 L, ISO 12800 f/4 1/60 @24mm and close to SOOC with no NR.

 

[SkaGoat]

Just read the first post, Do you already own the 16-35 f/2.8?

 

[Skywise]

Just read the first post, Do you already own the 16-35 f/2.8?

Yes. I'm debating selling it and getting the F4.