Azalea Question

rafiki3

Earning My Ears
Joined
Apr 29, 2001
Messages
33
We moved into this house last summer and i am in the process of making the beds decent. I was cleaning out a bed that had 4 azalea bushes in it and had originally planned to just get rid of them, but then I thought what the heck, let's move them and see if they take root.

I live in Mississippi (zone 6, I think) and it's been in the 60's for a couple of weeks. The temperatures are projected to remain moderate with only one dip into the upper 30's later this week.

1) what are the chances of survival for these bushes given that I relocated them during the winter, and at what temperature does their chance of survival diminish?

2) can I reasonably expect that if they do survive that they will bloom again?

Any other suggestions for these bushes?
 
Hi rafiki3, and welcome! :flower3:

I take it you've already moved the azaleas, right? Since the ground isn't frozen where you are, I think they've got a good chance of surviving. Certainly a better chance transplanted than thrown out! ;) :)

Here's some info on transplanting azaleas from the Azalea Society of America , FAQ page.

~Transplanting azaleas
The general goal when transplanting is to minimize the stress on the plant being moved. Stress is caused by leaving some of the roots behind. If possible, transplant azaleas in early fall or early spring when the weather is relatively cool, or in the winter unless the soil is frozen or soggy. If you must transplant in warm weather, choose an overcast day, or a day or so after it has rained (which cools the soil), or earlier or later in the day.

Small azaleas can be transplanted with little stress by moving a very large root ball relative to the size of the plant. That ensures that you are moving most of the roots.

For large azaleas, dig wide rather than deep to get as many roots as possible. They are generally rather shallow-rooted. The very safest approach is to dig a trench up to 12 inches deep, around the dripline of the plant. Then undercut the plant to form a cone, and start removing some of the soil an inch or so at a time, moving all around the plant, until you begin to see that you are removing roots. If possible, then get a square of burlap under the plant (tilt the plant to one side, put one edge of the burlap close to the center of the plant, wadded up so that only half of it is on the open side of the plant, then rock the plant the other way and pull the burlap through). Tie the corners of the burlap to each other across the plant. Tie the burlap as tight as possible, to keep the soil around the plant roots undisturbed. Then lift the plant by the burlap and the bottom, not by its stems.

You can reduce the stress much more by planning a year or two ahead. Moving around the plant at the drip line, cut straight down with a spade, move a few spade widths and cut again, etc., until you have cut 1/3 or 1/2 of the soil. Any cut roots will start growing on the side of the cut toward the plant. If you have the time, repeat this next year, but cut the soil you didn't cut before. The idea is that when you finally cut it loose and move it, most of the roots will have regrown inside the soil you will be moving.

Replant the azalea following the regular planting directions. Do that as soon as possible to minimize the risk of the roots drying out. If it cannot be replanted soon, water the root ball slowly and thoroughly every day or two until you plant it.~

If you followed these (or at least some of them) guidelines, hopefully they'll be blooming like mad for you before you know it!! :)

Keep us posted, okay? :)

Kim
 
also remember azaleas are shade lovers and can be tricky, watch for redspider and fungal infections in the first year after the move especially, hte plants are already week, from moving and the bugs and stuff do more harm then.
 












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