Yellowstone/Grand Tetons Advice - Updated with Photos - Post 63

[Sorsha]

Hello!
Just wanted to put a bug in your ear about another area you might want to look into for one of your Yellowstone days. I realize that you have your plans pretty well firmed up, but I came to this thread late. My bad!
I live in MT and have visited the Yellowstone area many times. If you can somehow fit it into your itinerary, consider ducking out the Cody, WY exit gate for a day or an afternoon and check out the town of Cody and the Buffalo Bill Museum. It is "5 museums in one complex"; fairly new, very well done, and quite worth the time. http://www.bbhc.org/home/index.cfm
Anyhow, enjoy Yellowstone! It is one of our favorite places. Let me know if I can answer any questions for you, we have been there many times. Be sure and pack clothes for all seasons - at that time of year, it can be warm enough for shorts one day and snowing the next.

 

[Donald is #1]

What time are you arriving? It's a long time from Jackson to Old Faithful because of the aforementioned speed limits. Also, it's a really beautiful drive and you don't want to rush, since you're driving through Grand Teton National Park. Maybe you'd like to get a room in Jackson as far north as you can, see the town and the southern aspects of Grand Teton, then go on up the next day. After a stop at the Bunnery (if it's still there) for a great breakfast, of course! We like to take a boat on Jenny Lake right at the foot of Grand Teton on the way up.

Driving at night in Yellowstone isn't fun, either. There are no lights along the intersections or anywhere else, no reflectors, and you can't see the scenery. If you do drive up, try to get there by nightfall. And, if there's room, try to stay in the old part of the Old Faithful Inn. That's one historic hotel, and they just finished renovations last year. It is outstanding. If you don't have a chance to stay there, take a walk or tour through it if you can.

I'm arriving at about 4 in the afternoon. Currently I am booked at a hotel in Teton Village because I didn't want to be driving through the park(s) after dark when I had no clue where I was going. Once I made the reservations, I started thinking about whether I could get to Yellowstone before it got dark. But I will probably leave everything as it is and just enjoy my drive in the morning.

Just wanted to put a bug in your ear about another area you might want to look into for one of your Yellowstone days. I realize that you have your plans pretty well firmed up, but I came to this thread late. My bad!
I live in MT and have visited the Yellowstone area many times. If you can somehow fit it into your itinerary, consider ducking out the Cody, WY exit gate for a day or an afternoon and check out the town of Cody and the Buffalo Bill Museum. It is "5 museums in one complex"; fairly new, very well done, and quite worth the time. http://www.bbhc.org/home/index.cfm
Anyhow, enjoy Yellowstone! It is one of our favorite places. Let me know if I can answer any questions for you, we have been there many times. Be sure and pack clothes for all seasons - at that time of year, it can be warm enough for shorts one day and snowing the next.

Thanks for the advice. Since I have an extra day in the lake area since I changed my flight home, I may try to head towards Cody. I will probably play it my ear a bit, but I will be sure to keep it in mind.

Thanks for reminding me about the weather! I will make sure that I pack clothes for multiple seasons.

I think what you have planned is pretty good, although I wouldn't spend as much time at Lake, I don't know why. I'm not a fisherman, and it seems like the good wildlife watching, sights and hiking are not at Lake. Wildlife is great in the Lamar Valley and up over the pass on Mt. Washburn. Like Disney World, you have to get up early to beat the crowds and see the "shows"! Head for the hikes in the p.m. to avoid the crowds, but always take a rain jacket. Rain at this altitude is dangerous.

If you want to try "roughing" it I would highly recommend the Roosevelt Lodge, or the cabins at Mammoth or Lake. I always feel more out in nature in those cabins. It's a short walk to the bathrooms, but not being in a hotel is kind of neat. My favorite is Roosevelt. There are NO crowds there. Ever. These cabins are cheap and will make up for your high airfare.

Also, I went the first week of Sept. last year and was stunned by the amount of people. The rangers at Norris Ranger Station said that young retirees keep them hopping all through the autumn. It wasn't like July, by any means, but it was busy. You will not have the place to yourself, sadly.

Finally, if Xanterra's website doesn't show any vacancies for your stay- call them! They do not update that website very often and cancellations may not show up at all. I think Xanterra runs the lodging facilities extremely well, but their website- not.

Have a great time! Other folks have Disney- but I have Yellowstone !

Originally I planned less time at the lake, but when I moved my return flight, I had an extra day so I figured that the lake was about as centrally located as anything. I will probably play it by ear a bit. I really don't mind a bit of a drive if I decide that I want to go back to the Old Faithful area or drive towards Cody, etc.

Through the website, I was able to book my hotels within the park. For my Old Faithful night, I am at the Snow Lodge. For Mammouth Hot Springs, I am at the hotel and for the lake, I bit the bullet and I am at the Lake Yellowstone Hotel. I thought about the cabins, but I wasn't sure if I would be nervous staying at a cabin my myself. (Yes, I am a wimp.)

It will be interesting to see how the crowds are. I know that up here in NH, I don't go near the White Mountains (I know, they don't compare to Yellowstone.) on 3 day weekends because it is bumper to bumper traffic. I am hoping that Yellowstone will be large enough that it won't be too bad.

Everyone, keep the advice coming! I have been talking about this trip for years and I finally said that it was time to actually go!

 

[casaazul]

I think you are smart to stick close to Jackson the first night. The drive is long and you may feel rushed to get to your hotel in Yellowstone, and skip some stops along the way. Get up early and refreshed your 2nd day and have a fun drive to Yellowstone!

Sounds like you have a great plan, and way to go with the United Miles!!!

 

[Disney Debbie]

We made this trip in June 2002 and had a blast. We stayed 2 nights at the Snow Lodge and loved it - it's got a nice atmosphere but has modern and private bathroom facilities! You're right across the parking lot from the Old Faithful Inn so you can go soak in the atsmosphere without paying the price! You have made a good decision not trying to drive up that late. We drove from Yellowstone to Teton Village and didn't leave until late afternoon. We didn't get to see much scenery and it was VERY slow driving - due to speed limits, narrow roads and looking out for wildlife. We made a wrong turn and ended up in the Elk Refuge - which actually turned out cool because we were stopped by deer crossing the road and literally saw "Bambi" - who couldn't have been more then 2 weeks old! But I digress! At the Grand Teton's we went on the boat ride at Jenny Lake and a very small and well populated hike there. We also went on a chuck wagon excursion - I think it was the Bar T 5 or something like that - that was lots of fun - I'd highly recommend for a solo traveler - you sit family style at picnic tables and the entertainment was great.

As far as September goes - we went to Zion, Bryce & Grand Canyon 2 years ago in September and it was great. Still plenty of people - but not like the summer time. We were surprised by how many European tourists were there. We ate breakfast in a place one morning where we were the only Americans there except for the staff! But all very nice and we met lots of interesting people. That was our first "parents of grown child" trip and we enjoyed it. I would imagine Yellowstone would be about the same way.

 

[Claire L]

We also went on a chuck wagon excursion - I think it was the Bar T 5 or something like that - that was lots of fun - I'd highly recommend for a solo traveler - you sit family style at picnic tables and the entertainment was great.

I am sure I did this in 1995 whilst on a coach tour, the tour guide set me up and I got picked out to go up on stage But it was alot of fun

Claire

 

[emerymt]

Maybe that's the chuckwagon ride that leaves from the Roosevelt Corrals? I agree, it is outstanding! It seems like kind of a hokey thing to do, but it actually is fun because you get a bit of history and the drivers are nice and very knowledgeable. We have gone several times and just love it! If a person doesn't care to ride in one of the wagons, one can ride a horse to the dining area. No previous riding experience necessary!

Unfortunately, the park shuts down quite a few concessions and ranger-led activities after Labor Day (not for lack of attendance but because of staffing, and it is starting to get colder at night when many of these take place). I think the chuckwagon ride is one of those that are not available. If it is, though, I would highly recommend it- and also to get reservations ASAP. There should still be some talks available at the Lake Hotel, though, and definitely at Old Faithful, and they are all very good. Many of these rangers have PhD's.

After I saw this thread I booked 4 nights at the Lake Lodge Cabins for August, we haven't been down that way for a few years. I'm not staying by myself, but I agree it's still kind of a scary walk from the cabin to the restrooms in the middle of the night. I always take my flashlight AND bear spray, even in the populated areas. A few years back, an early morning jogger encountered a curious young grizzly at the Lake Lodge Cabins. It sniffed her for a while, and the jogger got annoyed and whacked it on the snout with her water bottle. Not a recommended technique but it worked!

I'm sure you will have a great time. And, it won't be bumper-to-bumper traffic- crowded is a relative term out here...

 

[Donald is #1]

I'll look for the chuck wagon ride while I am there. Even if it is hokey..Hokey can be fun!

Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. Since I have never been to this area of the country before, I really appreciate all of the suggestions.

I'm definitely looking forward to this trip. It is amazing how many people say "I always wanted to go there" when I tell them that I have booked the trip.

 

[Disney Debbie]

Maybe that's the chuckwagon ride that leaves from the Roosevelt Corrals?

No - You're talking about one that's in Yellowstone - we didn't get a chance to do that one - didn't have time.

I ran and got my scrapbook to get the exact name - it was "The Original Covered Wagon Cookout & Wild West Show @ Bar-T-5. The # for ressies is 307-733-5386. They are in Jackson. It was hokey but fun and had all ages there. There were several tour groups - so I wouldn't be surprised if it was the one you did Claire L!

 

[WDWorld2003]

We've been to the Yellowstone/Teton area twice for two weeks at a time and love it and still haven't seen it all!

I would also just stay in Jackson your first night as it is a long way into the parks. One of our favorite places was the Bar J Wranglers cookout which you could do on your first night in Jackson. The singers are very talented. We would return to the area just for this show!
http://www.barjchuckwagon.com/

Also, this chat page was a great resource when we went - these people live and breath Yellowstone
http://www.yellowstone-natl-park.com/wwwboard/chat2.htm

There are some nice whitewater and float rafting down the Snake River leaving from Jackson and also from the Jackson Lodge in the Tetons. Highly recommended.

In the Tetons great places to stay are Colter Bay cabins or Jackson Lake Lodge. Colter Bay has old log cabins that have been moved from there from all over Wyoming. They are very close together so you would feel safe. There's some nice hiking right outside the cabins. They also have a General Store, laundry, a fast food restaurant, museum, canoe rental, evening amphitheater, etc. Leek's Pizza down the road is also a great place. Jackson Lodge is right down the road (3-4 miles) if you would prefer a room or for finer dining and the float trips leave right from here. This is a beautiful lodge and would also be a great choice.

Your plan for Yellowstone looks great. You may want to also consider staying in the Canyon area and visit Artist's Point and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone but both areas are beautiful and you could easily visit both from either area. The Canyon area is also not too far from Norris Basin - another fascinating thermal area. Yellowstone Lake puts you closer to the some other thermal areas such as the West Thumb geyser basin and the Mud Volancoe area and the Lake Lodge is beautiful. Great breakfast brunch and entertainment at night.

Roosevelt is in the Lamar Valley area which is great for wildlife but is also a long way from other areas of the park. We have stayed in their rustic cabins and also loved them and this area but I'm not sure I would want to stay as a solo traveler. We loved the chuckwagon cookout from here but not sure it will be still on in September.

I also agree about driving at night... we hit a large deer on one trip and just missed a few other animals other times.

Cody has a great museum and rodeo but is a long way from the park. You may want to save that for another trip.

You will have a great time - wish I was going!

 

[emerymt]

Jackson Lodge is right down the road (3-4 miles) if you would prefer a room or for finer dining and the float trips leave right from here. This is a beautiful lodge and would also be a great choice........

Your plan for Yellowstone looks great. You may want to also consider staying in the Canyon area and visit Artist's Point and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone but both areas are beautiful and you could easily visit both from either area. The Canyon area is also not too far from Norris Basin - another fascinating thermal area.

I agree that the Jackson Lake Lodge has a wonderful dining room. The view is incredible, and the back deck is a lovely place to sit after dinner. I had forgotten about it because we were juggling a colicky 3-month old at the time!

But, I wouldn't stay at Canyon. It appears to be a leftover motel from the 50's, and I don't mean that in a fond & nostalgic way! All of the lodging facilities are reviewed over at TripAdvisor- and let's just say I am not alone in my opinion. It's unfortunate, because as you mentioned, the sights nearby are fabulous. Luckily, Canyon is easily reached from the Lake Lodge.

One last thing- if the OP would want to see a geyser up close and personal without being on a boardwalk or behind a fence, the hike to the Lone Star Geyser is easy (one can even ride a bike) and it's an impressive eruption- just don't leave too soon (as about half the people do)! http://www.yellowstoneparknet.com/geothermal_features/lone_star_geyser.php
Anytime you get off the roads & pullouts, there is an amazing drop in crowds, but this is a popular enough hike that you won't feel lonely.

 

[CowboyCO]

If Possible, I wouldn't recommend Teton Village in September. Rates should be good then, but Teton Village is 20 miles from JH airport. I'd recommend finding a hotel in the town of Jackson. Lots going on in town, with fun shopping, gunfight (if still going on that late in season) and great restaurants all over town. The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar and the Silver Dollar Bar are must-sees also. Go to Jackson Hole Central Reservations to look for rooms instread of using travelocity or the like.

My personal favorites are The Rusty Parrot and The Wort Hotel.

Jackson Lake Lodge is a nice place to stay up in Grand Teton national Park and the the restaurant there (The Mural Room has a bank of windows with million dollar views!. Make a dinner reservation for 8:00 so you can enjoy the sunset over Jackson lake and Mt Moran. It is also common to see moose out those windows in the early morning and late evening grazing in the willows below.

Take time while near there to go to Oxbow Bend for Photo Ops -- some of the most famous photos of the teons are taken there -- including the picture on my desktop -- breath-taking!

You are visiting The Parks at my favorite time-- fall. Crowds will be light. Leaves won't be turning (maybe a little) but warm days, crisp cool nights, crystal blue skies and elk, and moose will have shed their velvet and in full glory!

I lived in Wyo for 30+ years and worked at Jackson Lake Lodge for two years during college and I wish I was going with you!

Here's my short list list of must-see & dos for Jackson and Yellowstone

1. Jenny Lake in Grand Teton. Sunrise at Jenny Lake is rejuvenating! Of course, so is sunset

2. Signal Mtn lookout -- Amazing views of Jackson Hole and the Tetons

3. Old Faithful and that entire geyser basin (Don't forget Old Faithful Lodge -- It's the largest lodge structure in the World!)

4. Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Upper & lower falls -- Take a hike down the falls edge -- What power and majesty!

5. Firehole-- One of my favorite places.

6. Mammoth Hot Springs

7. Lake Hotel at Yellowstone Lake -- Very Beautiful.

8. Norris Geyser Basin.


My best suggestion is to not try to squeeze in too much. The sheer size of the area is daunting, travel time is unpredictable because you will likely be making many unexpected stops to view wildlife and beuty around every turn. Just soak it in, burn a lot of pictures and video. There truly is no place like it on Earth. Have a great trip!

 

[ScooterL]

You are visiting The Parks at my favorite time-- fall. Crowds will be light. Leaves won't be turning (maybe a little) but warm days, crisp cool nights, crystal blue skies and elk, and moose will have shed their velvet and in full glory!

We're planning to go to Yellowstone next October (2008). What kind of weather/temperatures do you think we can expect around October 5-13? We're hoping it won't be too chilly by then. Will we have a good chance of seeing the leaves turning by then?

Thanks!

 

[CowboyCO]

How fun!

First off- check the park schedule, because they usually close some or all of the entrances to Yellowstone in late fall (late October- early November.) in preperation for winter.

I would plan on going the first week in October, personally. You will literally have the Park to yourself and that is peak week for the Aspen turning. Plan for everything from warm days to cold nights to cold days and cold nights. There can a likely will be some snow. Not all hotels are open that late in the season, so check ahead of time. Rates shoild be good then as it is off-season. The elk will have just finished the rut, and if you get up early in the morning, they will likely still be bugling. It's an eerie, awesome sound, echoing down the valleys.

There may be some rain if not snow, but usually it doesn't last long if it does.

How lucky to go in the peak of the color season! You will LOVE it!

 

[Donald is #1]

WDWorld2003
Thanks for the suggestion on the Bar J Wranglers cookout. I will definitely check it out for either my first or last night!

emerymt
I couldn't find a good room rate at the Jackson Lake Lodge. But I will try to arrange it so that I can at least eat lunch there. If not, I will stop by just to check it out and check out the views.
Thanks for the suggestion on the Lone Star Geyser. I will add it to my list.

CowboyCO,
Is Teton Village really 20 miles from the airport? It was hard to tell from the map that I was looking at. (A pretty bad map actually) I may look into other options for my first night. When I checked on Expedia, there wasn't much available for a decent price on my first night but I will keep checking.
Thanks for the suggestion on Oxbow Bend. I will add it to my list. You can never have too many photo ops!
Also thanks for the list of suggestions. I will take a look at them and make sure that they are on my list.

I think that my list will end up with too many things but I will take my WDW approach. i.e. Keep in mind that I can't seee everything and enjoy everything I do see without worrying about what I don't get to.

 

[ScooterL]

CowboyCO and emerymt,

Thank you SO much for all of the information!!! I'm saving it for our trip next year. Do you have any other suggestions for interesting hikes? We are all used to hiking and in good shape, so anything up to 6-8 miles is very do-able for us. Shorter hikes are most welcome, too!

 

[CowboyCO]

Cascade Canyon from the Jenny Lake Trailhead in GTNP is a great hike.

In Yellowstone, many of the geyser basins are long likes 2-3 miles around entire loops. The hikes down the lower falls are not very long but fairly steep.

As for longer hikes, Yellowstone has thousands of miles of hiking trails. There are a lot of good books on hiking trails.

 

[Disney Debbie]

We're planning to go to Yellowstone next October (2008). What kind of weather/temperatures do you think we can expect around October 5-13? We're hoping it won't be too chilly by then. Will we have a good chance of seeing the leaves turning by then?

Thanks!

Just remember - it can snow and be cold ANY time of year up there. We went in June and woke up on June 10th with 6 inches of snow on our car! For us Georgia folks it was great! Luckily I'd remembered it being really cold at night in August and so we'd packed some jackets - but we had to buy hats and gloves. We went to the local rodeo in Jackson - which was really fun - not nearly as big as Cody but a lot more convenient - and the announcer said they'd had snow on July 4th before. It was much warmer in Jackson and on the north side of Yellowstone. The coldest was around Old Faithful - a ranger told us they have there own little weather pattern in that section of the park. I've noticed lots of times on the weather channel that it would be much colder there then surround areas.

 

[emerymt]

We're planning to go to Yellowstone next October (2008). What kind of weather/temperatures do you think we can expect around October 5-13? We're hoping it won't be too chilly by then. Will we have a good chance of seeing the leaves turning by then?

Thanks!

Are you coming for the last weekend at Old Faithful Inn? I may see you there! It's about the only time that the rates aren't through the (beautifully restored) roof! Are you a member of the Yellowstone Association? It's only $35 or so and you get early and late season discounts on lodging which will easily pay for the fee, also 10% of at all the Yellowstone Association Bookstores, and usually a nice canvas bag or other gift. http://www.yellowstoneassociation.org/

I think the leaves should still be pretty at that time- and they really are glorious! But beware of snow. I went that last weekend some years back and almost didn't make it from the gate at Gardiner. In fact, the ranger only let me in because I (ostensibly!) knew where I was going and had a 4WD. I grew up driving Wyoming roads, and even I was worried, but we did make it to Old Faithful that night. It was quite a trip, but I won't go into the details here! Within a day it had all melted off and we had a great time there. Absolutely be sure you are at your destination by nightfall!!

Another good thing about that time of year is that the bears are really active since they are trying to put on fat before they go into hibernation. Also the thermal features look much bigger (more steam), and you might catch the end of the the elk rut, when they are bugling. It's very impressive. So cooler temperatures might be a good thing. And, you can still swim in the Firehole and Boiling River areas- they're always warm! The crowds will be completely gone. In fact, this is my favorite time of year in Yellowstone. Have fun!

 

[emerymt]

I don't want to discourage you about the snow, BTW. You're going to be there a week in October- I think you can plan on some snow- but storms here come & go. The weather will be great- sunny, actually- most of the time you are there.

 

[emerymt]

Just remember - it can snow and be cold ANY time of year up there. We went in June and woke up on June 10th with 6 inches of snow on our car! For us Georgia folks it was great! Luckily I'd remembered it being really cold at night in August and so we'd packed some jackets - but we had to buy hats and gloves. We went to the local rodeo in Jackson - which was really fun - not nearly as big as Cody but a lot more convenient - and the announcer said they'd had snow on July 4th before. It was much warmer in Jackson and on the north side of Yellowstone. The coldest was around Old Faithful - a ranger told us they have there own little weather pattern in that section of the park. I've noticed lots of times on the weather channel that it would be much colder there then surround areas.

That is true. Around Mammoth, it can get very warm. That's why it's the only "real" town in Yellowstone and why they keep the road from Gardiner to Cooke City open in the winter. They are the first lodging to open and the last to close in the summer. We go there in the spring so we aren't too "hot" (It's all relative).

If you watch the Weather Channel for the lowest temp. in the contiguous 48 states, often it will be West Yellowstone, the closest "real" town to Old Faithful. They're up on the plateau. I'm sure there are colder spots in Yellowstone, but they aren't official weather stations since no one actually lives there except a few park rangers and intrepid winter visitors.