*Truck and Towing thread........ask your questions here.*

[Teamubr]

Anyone have trouble with the gravity feed on your auxiliary tank?

Mine has a check ball fitting, but it sticks closed a lot. I went camping this past weekend. Put about 30 gallons in the auxiliary tank and it sucked about 15 out, but there is still 15 in it and the main tank is down to 1/2.

My race team mates truck had the opposite issue with his identical tank and valve. His wouldn't close. If he had a full main tank and anything in the auxiliary, it would come out of the filler if you took the fuel cap off the truck. Surprised him the first time it happened when he filled the auxiliary tank before the main tank.

I think I'll take the valve off and try to clean it out, but it's done this off and on since I put the tank in a few years ago.

j

 

[SouthAlabama5er]

I took the check ball off my tank, it works fine as far as draining the whole auxiliary tank but twice it has vented from in guess the truck tank vent. I have to do a oil change on it tomorrow so I was going to look around and see if I can rig up something so that I don't have to worry about it venting again. Not every one like the smell of diesel after it vented at the next guys campsite.... trust me.

 

[tiggerdad]

I keep mine open but I run a fuel pump to pull the diesel from the auxiliary to the main tank. When I bought the truck the pump was already mounted and wired. I just had to get the tank. So I never close the valve.

 

[Teamubr]

Thanks Randy and Michael,

I may just drill out the check ball. I have a shut off valve at the tank that I can open and close too. I just leave it open all the time. It's the check ball valve at the adapter on the filler hose that is getting stuck. I drove about 400 miles total this weekend with 250 of it towing and only half of the auxiliary tank ran in. I parked the truck Sunday in the garage. Go out this morning to take it to work and the 15 remaining gallons decided to run into the main tank sometime between Sunday afternoon and today, while it just sat there.

Annoying.

j

 

[jbrostek]

J - I have not seen them get stuck closed. I have heard about going out the filler neck, usually because the cap is bad or not tightened enough. I did have an issue with it draining originally. I had the wrong cap on the aux tank (non vented) and if the lower tank filled it would not start to drip again unless I relieved the pressure. With a vented cap I do not seem to have that issue as often, but sometimes I just have to crack the aux tank cap 1/4 turn so there is some venting and it will drain out just fine.

 

[SouthAlabama5er]

I just have to crack the aux tank cap 1/4 turn so there is some venting and it will drain out just fine.

I do the same thing with my tank, I forgot to write that in my last post.

 

[Teamubr]

My talk has a vent at the top corner. It looks like a 90 degree barbed fitting. It will leak out of it if I get the tank really full. It's only a couple of minutes to take out the sleeve adapter with the hose fitting and check valve. I'll play with putting it in a different position to see if that makes a difference.

j

 

[tltay2005]

When you REALLY want a 5th wheel but can't afford one......make your own!

 

[tiggerdad]

What's even better is that there is a chain connecting the car to the truck in front of it.

 

[tiggerdad]

Okay, got a question for those of you running diesels.

In my old 2003 Super Duty all I ever ran in it was 15w-40 oil. When I bought my 2013 it had heavy duty 10w-30 in it, which I believe is what is sent in it from the factory. Last winter I had no noise on a cold startup (that was when it had the 10w-30 in it). This winter, on relatively cold mornings, on startup I had a funny high pitch sound that would usually just last a few seconds and go away. Warmer mornings meant less, if any at all noise. Talking to a few guys they said if was the oil. Said the newer engine with the 15w-40 doesn't get moving as well as the 10w-30.

Now, most people I talk to say if you're towing a lot, go with the 40 weight oil. It was suggested I go with 5w-40 (which is listed as compatible) see if this doesn't eliminate the noise.

My question is, what do you guys run in yours?

 

[dmaxphil]

I've always been an Amsoil synthetic guy. Have always run 15w40 in my diesels with no problems. High pitched? Sure it's not a belt or something? Turbo whine?

I have a Duramax, fyi.

 

[tiggerdad]

Def not belt. If I had the engine plugged in overnight then no noise. This should not affect belts and it isn't that high pitched.

I've researched as best I could. I'm with you Dmax, 15w40 all the way but I'll give the 5w40 a shot. I had the Ford dealership keep it and look at it during a recent recall upgrade but of course no noise.

 

[Teamubr]

Michael,

Go with the Rotella/DelVac 5W40. Unfortunately all the 5W40 (at least around here) is synthetic and $$$, but I ran 15W40 in my truck for one oil change trying to save some money and the truck didn't like it. Slower to get going. Worse fuel mileage. Odd noises.

5W40 is what came in mine from the factory (2011) and the filler cap says 5W40. The manual says 10W30 (normal usage) to 0F degrees, 15W40 is only good to 20 F degrees and use with bio-diesel, 5W40 for severe duty and bio-diesel at any temp range. And for the brave, 0W30/40 for any temp range, but not bio-diesel or severe duty.

Many of the newer engines (gasers too) have much tighter tolerances on bearings and rings. Many of the new cars run 0W30. Helps with mileage. The thicker oil, especially when cold, has a hard time getting through bearing clearances and rings.

I'd run the 5W40. It's synthetic so it should handle the heat better and it should help with mpg over the thick stuff.

j

 

[tiggerdad]

Appreciate it guys. That's pretty much what I had been reading.

You still changing out the full synthetic 5w-40 at the same mileage?

 

[sirenia88]

Tiggerdad,

When did you get a diesel? I thought your 2013 was was 6.2 gas like mine. The gas models should be running 5w20 but there was recent switch to 5w30. This is reported to have given the engine better wear and tear at higher mileage and extreme conditions (i.e. Towing) I would have doubted the factory would have shipped 10W30 in a 6.2 engine. 5W20 would have been the case.

 

[Teamubr]

You still changing out the full synthetic 5w-40 at the same mileage?

I change mine at 6-7000 not towing and 4-5000 if it's mostly towing miles. My non-tow miles are almost all highway cruising and not real hard on anything.

j

 

[tiggerdad]

Alan,

No, it's the 6.7 Diesel. After having pulled for years with the old 2003 diesel, I decided to stay in that market. When you guys came by I had parked it in overflow to free up some space on the pad for decorations.

John,
Thanks, I usually stick to 5000 regardless. Mainly the Brahma Bull (as my girls call it) is used for towing. If I'm riding around town for usual chores or going to work I still drive my old 1997 tacoma 4x4. Saves on the mileage on the big guy.

 

[sirenia88]

Hey Mike,

Alan,

No, it's the 6.7 Diesel. After having pulled for years with the old 2003 diesel, I decided to stay in that market. When you guys came by I had parked it in overflow to free up some space on the pad for decorations.

Yeah I remember you not parking on the pad due to the copious amount of decor at the site. I do remember you driving by Vince the one night and then again it was night. For some reason I thought you had the 6.2. You got upgrade the turbo and fuel pump. Practically an instant update to the 2016 spec. The one ford forum had a discussion on the update some diesel shop in the midwest got it figured it out.

 

[PaHunter]

I switched over to 5W-40 before hauling our TT down to the Fort, I will be due for an oil change here shortly, and will most likely stay with it. Had no problems.

 

[tiggerdad]

Appreciate it