Day 33 Thurs Montserrat
Part 1
We were up early to catch the metro to Placa dEspanya to coordinate with the train and cable car to Montserrat. This is a Benedictine monastery complex dwarfed by the jagged peaks of Serra de Montserrat and dotted with hermitages. It is the location of lots of legends like St Peter was meant to have left the statue of the Virgin Mary (the black virgin) carved by St Luke here in 50AD and Parsifal found the holy grail here etc. The monastery was founded in the 11thC but was destroyed in 1811 when the French attacked Catalonia in the War of independence. It was rebuilt and during the Franco regime it was the only place allowed to perform marriage ceremonies and celebrate masses in Catalan.
I am not mentioning the fact that in my menopausal madness I attempted to lead us to Estacio Sants instead of dÉspanya ???? except to say that if anyone wonders, you can catch the metro from Sants to dEspanya and find the RER platform and make the train to Montserrat, all in less than 15 mins!

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Right, thanks to TA advice on how to find the correct platform for Montserrat which can be difficult (you follow the signs to L8 in order to find L5) we arrived with seconds to spare. It was a pleasant trip out into the countryside past fields and allotments before the splendour of the mountain revealed itself. At Aeri Montserrat we got off and caught the cable car. For those afraid of heights you can catch the RER one more stop and take a funicular up instead. It was a bit too crowded in the cable car, unfortunately, to get any decent pics to show the sheer ascent.
View from the train (the monastery is half way up - you can just make it out)
View from the station (again the monastery is all but hidden blending in with the rock-to the right of the cleft in the rocks near the top.)
View on the way up in the cable car
And another showing the steepness looking up where we are headed.
Following guidebook recoms we decided to go straight up the funicular Sant Joan to the top and take one of the walks. I had overly ambitious hopes of making it to Sant Jeroni, on Montserratts highest peak (and I know PIO would have made it here) which has stunning views but we had an experience en route which unsettled us and that plus the heat and DH getting breathless (hes not been the same since the Grand Canyon episode though the Doc has checked him out and said his heart and lungs are fine) we didnt make it as far as I had hoped.
Funicular Sant Joan
Views of the monastery complex going up in the funicular. Shows how steep it is as that is looking through the glass roof.
It was a spectacular walk. We headed off around steep granite rocks with a quite a bit of stair climbing. Stunning views back down to the monastery nestled on the mountainside and a hermitage on the opposite slope.
We had got a little further, when rounding a corner, we saw a paraglider about to jump off the top of a rock high up above us. So we stopped to watch. Except as he jumped he failed to catch the updraught properly and he mostly fell, bouncing and bashing against the sides of the mountain, screaming as he went. We figured we would have one badly injured or dead body land in front of us on the path.
DH made us get back under an overhang so we werent hit and swept over the hillside with him and we frantically started getting mobile phones out to call for help. However, he then finally caught the wind and soared up and over the top of us, only to lose it again as he rounded a corner and we could hear him screaming and crashing into trees on the slope. Then silence. We could see no-one above him on the cliff.
We ran back down all the steps and around to where we thought might be the closest spot and DH kept calling out to see if he was still alive and locate where he was but we didnt know if he spoke English and we spoke no Spanish. We were also wondering what the emergency number in Spain was and would they speak English for us to report the emergency?
We rounded a corner and thankfully there was a group of Spanish trekkers who saw the end of the event and had ropes and climbing gear with them. With gestures we explained what had happened and they called out in Spanish and he answered and after some convo between them and sign language to us we gathered he was amazingly OK and could walk and could get out from a lower path so no need to call for help or for them to abseil down. So it was back on with our day but it had shook us all up and dampened our enthusiasm somewhat.
We retraced our steps upwards and not too much further than where we had been we reached a lookout over the plains so after a photo stop we decided we might just head back to the monastery as I really wanted to hear the Boys Choir anyway.
Around about here I think he jumped.
We could see what was probably Sant Jeroni far off on a hilltop.
View from the lookout
View across the ravine to a hermitage we would have gone by if we had made the full route.
Views going back down on the funicular
Clever way for two carriages to pass
A good view of the basilica
Back in the now busy metropolis of the monastery we found a café to buy some soft drinks to accompany our picnic lunch then joined the throng heading into the cathedral. You could queue (an incredibly long queue) to see the famous black Virgin, La Morenata, which carbon dating says is 12thC and not as reputed made by St Luke in 50AD. Instead we crammed with everyone else into the basilica and found a spot in the side aisle to stand. This is reputed to be Europes oldest music school and the two items that were sung were amazing. Some of the boys looked so young!
The basilica entrance
Inside
View of the virgin
The boys choir
Continued next post