The ABCs of Greece & Italy! X, Y, and Z, and that Friends is THE END!!! :) See you in Asia and Australia, Join Me THERE!!

[Steppesister]

U is for: Underwater and Designs by Ugo​

The 2nd half of our 3rd day in Tuscany was… interesting. We left the lovely Villa Reale di Marlia and headed for a town called Montecatini Terme, home of several hot spring-fed spas and pools. In my research I’d settled on one that was drop dead gorgeous and had high hopes of spending several hours soaking in this luxurious space. We zoomy-zoomed into the town and found a parking spot as close as the gps would take us to “Tettucio Spa” and quickly found a passer-by who informed us that, unfortunately this particular spa was not open for bathing that day. It was however, going to be opened at 3:00 or so to tour the grounds and the buildings for an entrance fee.

Of course.

(The entrance to the "real spa" all gated still)​

Just a short walk away from our parking spot, however, was another option to soak, so off we trotted with our suits. Sadly, when we entered and paid our small fee, we realized that the pool was… just a regular looking pool in a boring looking modern building. Worse, it was hardly hot at all! Booooo!!! But we’d paid so adjusted our ‘tudes and got in with about a dozen or 20 other folks who’d come for the water therapy. It was obvious that at least a few had either physical or intellectual disabilities and were there truly for therapy reasons. While the water was only slightly warmer than lukewarm, there was a nice feature of some powerful jets of piped in water that people were taking turns standing under to give a nice massage experience. I can neither confirm nor deny being a complete water jet pig.

Now… in addition to the big soaking pool there was a smaller pool, oval shaped and a bit warmer. No one was in it, so we hopped over there and sort of just…. You know…. stood there and soaked. After a bit, a couple of other folks decided to use that “pool” and it quickly became apparent to us that we didn’t have a clue that you were not supposed to really just stand there but be walking around the “track” for exercise. This vacation wasn’t about to turn into anything even resembling exercise, so we got back into the big pool, a bit red-faced at our small social blunder. Wherein we each took a water jet and laughed our heads off until others started giving us the share-the-jets stink eye. Fine. Whatever. The water wasn’t really warm enough to make me say, “ahhhh”, so we got out, dried off with the towels they gave us, and since it was almost 3:00 anyway, we dressed and headed back to the “real” spa.

Oddly, that ended up being a memory that we still giggle about looking back.

There were no cameras allowed in the pool area (for good reason) as it is a working therapy pool, but I found this photo on the net to show you the set up with the lap pool that we were quite content to loiter in.

(Those things on the right side of the far pool are the water jet things where we lingered.) ​

When we got back to the Tettucio spa, we were informed at the ticket window once more that the pools were not open at this spa today but that we were welcome to explore the facility parts that were open. This really bummed me out because I had specifically chosen this one to spend the half day at and the information on their website showed that it would be open on our chosen day. If I’d known, we might have been able to trade our days around a bit. C’est la vie.

Let me show you WHY this is the Queen of Montacatini spas….

​

Built in 1919 by the architect Ugo Giovanozzi, it is an absolutely stunning work of the Art Deco style. If you are even a little bit of a Mucha fan, or of graceful lines and a soft pastel color palette, use of Greek influences and sleek elegance surrounding you, THIS is your place! It was built at the height of Italian post-WW1 extravagance and boy does it show here. The opulence is evident everywhere with an enormous “room” surrounding the pool, a HUGE social hall with a solid wood bar that seems to stretch for miles and even a music hall with an acoustic cupola. Those people took their spa deal to the ultimate max.

​

First we walked around the parklike grounds just enjoying the various fountains and walkways.

​

One of my favorite things I saw were these leaded glass windows in an outbuilding that is only used for storage now. I'd kill to have one of these installed in my home in Kentucky!

​

Now, even today, the big draw here, aside from it being a UNESCO World Heritage Site is that it is a fully operational spa that has an unique and historical option. Legend has it that there are at least 4 separate sources of healing waters, and the regimen is to Soak, Sip from #1, Soak, Sip from #2, Soak, Sip from #3 and so on… Or.. if you’re feeling particularly deficient in one specific area, you can just drink that one til you drown. Trust me, there is more than one process mentioned on the internet on the Tettucio “how to's".

Anara and I were happily touring along when I noticed that one of the water spigots with this magical healing water was actually on. YES!!! Today was my lucky day! I was going to be healed from… everything. FOREVER!!! With my hand as a cup, I took a big swig and oddly, my neck will still as trashed as it ever was. When I got home to research why I didn’t look 20 years younger, and still felt like crap, to my horror I discovered that I had unknowingly drank from the fountain of fertility.

Great.

Just what I hoping for at 50-something. Although I might trade being pregnant again over menopause. Not gonna lie.

​

See?! Now I know how Sophia got her smashing looks!

​

We continued to stroll around the main building of the spa and were just astounded at how big and grand it was!

​

We found ourselves at one point in a building that is now used as an art gallery with rotating artists, but the real beauty was the architecture of the building itself. Just so, so pretty!

​

It was here at Tettucio that I made one of my favorite memories of the entire trip too! I saw a group of 4 older folks maybe in their 70's or 80's playing a game of cards. I've never seen a deck or game like this, but was mesmerized by the entire scene. The bright colors of the cards, their aged hands that have had a lifetime of work and play etched in them, the bright smiles and easy cameraderie of their friendship, it was nothing short of magical and I HAD to get a photo. I sheepishly approached them fully expecting to be shoo-ed away, and with some probably very silly looking hand gestures asked if I could take their picture. They spoke not one word of English except thank you. I made it clear that it was to be ONLY of their hands and not their faces. They literally beamed and were super into it! They posed their hands just right as if playing a hand of the game and loved being my models in that moment. It just so much fun to have shared that small bit of humanity with them.

​

Having tempted fate with that sip of water a little too much I turned to my next living-on-the-edge activity: driving a stick shift, on the hills in Tuscany, in the dark. YAY ME!! I mean, tempting fate twice in one day is adventure, right?

The day had been a good one with a small tinge of disappointment but with a few giggles making up for it and a hefty dose of wondrous history and architecture to round it out. Yes, we were definitely touring WAY out of the usual touron spots. Sure Rome and Florence have some incredible things to see, but I’d argue that getting off the well-worn path of where everyone goes can offer some EXCELLENT things to see and do.

 

[Wood Nymph]

The spa is beautiful. It would have been really nice if the website was accurate so that you could take advantage of the amenities. I especially like the bar area.

 

[pkondz]

In my research I’d settled on one that was drop dead gorgeous and had high hopes of spending several hours soaking in this luxurious space.

The best laid plans...

quickly found a passer-by who informed us that, unfortunately this particular spa was not open for bathing that day.

so off we trotted with our suits.

Sadly, when we entered and paid our small fee, we realized that the pool was… just a regular looking pool in a boring looking modern building. Worse, it was hardly hot at all!

A pool that looked like a pool?? What are the odds??

It was obvious that at least a few had either physical or intellectual disabilities and were there truly for therapy reasons.

So... which one were you?

I can neither confirm nor deny being a complete water jet pig.

we hopped over there and sort of just…. You know…. stood there and soaked.

Stood... You couldn't sit? Too deep?

you were not supposed to really just stand there but be walking around the “track” for exercise.

Whoops! And yet... I wouldn't have known either, although the shape of the pool does lend itself to that I suppose.

This vacation wasn’t about to turn into anything even resembling exercise

Heck no!

Wherein we each took a water jet and laughed our heads off until others started giving us the share-the-jets stink eye.

There were no cameras allowed in the pool area (for good reason)

Can't be comparing suits now, can we?

Yeah... never seen anything like that. Very interesting. Almost looks like a hospital, in a way.

When we got back to the Tettucio spa, we were informed at the ticket window once more that the pools were not open at this spa today

That just seems so odd. I mean... it's open... but it's not open?

If you are even a little bit of a Mucha fan, or of graceful lines and a soft pastel color palette, use of Greek influences and sleek elegance surrounding you, THIS is your place!

Have no idea who or what Mucha is, but... place is beautiful.

a HUGE social hall with a solid wood bar that seems to stretch for miles

That bar!

One of my favorite things I saw were these leaded glass windows in an outbuilding that is only used for storage now. I'd kill to have one of these installed in my home in Kentucky!

Not me. Mosquitoes would get in.

Or.. if you’re feeling particularly deficient in one specific area, you can just drink that one til you drown.

Drowning in healing waters. You'd feel wayyyy better by the time you keeled over.

Today was my lucky day! I was going to be healed from… everything. FOREVER!!!

Woot!

With my hand as a cup, I took a big swig and oddly, my neck will still as trashed as it ever was.

False advertising! The ol' bait n switch!

When I got home to research why I didn’t look 20 years younger, and still felt like crap, to my horror I discovered that I had unknowingly drank from the fountain of fertility.

Anara's getting a new little brother or sister!

See?! Now I know how Sophia got her smashing looks!

I wonder how many of your readers know who you're talking about. I suspect the majority, but...

We continued to stroll around the main building of the spa and were just astounded at how big and grand it was!

Huge!

Beautiful buttresses

I sheepishly approached them fully expecting to be shoo-ed away, and with some probably very silly looking hand gestures asked if I could take their picture. They spoke not one word of English except thank you. I made it clear that it was to be ONLY of their hands and not their faces. They literally beamed and were super into it! They posed their hands just right as if playing a hand of the game and loved being my models in that moment. It just so much fun to have shared that small bit of humanity with them.

That's really cool. I dunno if I'd have the nerve to do that. Good for you!

The day had been a good one with a small tinge of disappointment but with a few giggles making up for it and a hefty dose of wondrous history and architecture to round it out. Yes, we were definitely touring WAY out of the usual touron spots. Sure Rome and Florence have some incredible things to see, but I’d argue that getting off the well-worn path of where everyone goes can offer some EXCELLENT things to see and do.

You sure are going off the beaten path! Loving this report.

 

[Steppesister]

The spa is beautiful. It would have been really nice if the website was accurate so that you could take advantage of the amenities. I especially like the bar area.

That was definitely a bit of a bummer for sure. But I am happy we at least got to wander around and see if if nothing else. That bar area was so over-the-top! It was so massive and probably like 3 times the length of the one, say, at Raglan Road or Rose and Crown. So elegant!

 

[Steppesister]

The best laid plans...

....sometimes work out.

I saw a video of a really cool tie knot the other day. It looked so great! I can't remember the name of it, but men sure looking dashing and handsome in suits.

A pool that looked like a pool?? What are the odds??

shush!!! It wasn't an elegant Art Deco pool with magical drinking waters nearby!

So... which one were you?

both

Stood... You couldn't sit? Too deep?

Yes, too deep. It hit me about upper waist height. I think the point was to give some resistance when you were exercising in it.

Whoops! And yet... I wouldn't have known either, although the shape of the pool does lend itself to that I suppose

It does, for sure. Derp!

Can't be comparing suits now, can we?

Yeah... never seen anything like that. Very interesting. Almost looks like a hospital, in a way.

Yes, that was exactly my thought. It was a very "industrial" looking complex with the checkin area mostly like a doctors office. They were making appts for PT and massage when we were checking in.

That just seems so odd. I mean... it's open... but it's not open?

I think when it's not "open" for bathing they have it "open" for it to serve as a social space for locals. There are some shops in the pallisade area (none were open though) and you could get snacks at the bar.

Have no idea who or what Mucha is, but... place is beautiful.

He was an artist that basically epitomized the Art Nouveau and still mostly represents that style in his paintings and prints.

That bar!

Right?!

Anara's getting a new little brother or sister!

I wonder how many of your readers know who you're talking about. I suspect the majority, but...

I doubt many. Maybe? I don't truly know the demographics of most of my readers. I heard someone say the other day that they don't even know who Jackie Gleason is so.... sigh.... so many greats being forgotten!

Beautiful buttresses

I like big butt(resse)s and I can not lie.

That's really cool. I dunno if I'd have the nerve to do that. Good for you!

It ended up being such a fun interaction!

You sure are going off the beaten path! Loving this report.

Hoping to a bit more coming up soon again.

 

[pkondz]

I saw a video of a really cool tie knot the other day. It looked so great! I can't remember the name of it, but men sure looking dashing and handsome in suits.

Full ascot? Or something else?

shush!!! It wasn't an elegant Art Deco pool with magical drinking waters nearby!

both

Yes, that was exactly my thought. It was a very "industrial" looking complex with the checkin area mostly like a doctors office. They were making appts for PT and massage when we were checking in.

I'd be super turned off by that.
"Who goes there?"
"Only people needing PT in the waters."

He was an artist that basically epitomized the Art Nouveau and still mostly represents that style in his paintings and prints.

Now I know.

But... not really my style.

I heard someone say the other day that they don't even know who Jackie Gleason is so.... sigh.... so many greats being forgotten!

I like big butt(resse)s and I can not lie.

Hoping to a bit more coming up soon again.

 

[Steppesister]

Full ascot? Or something else?

Merovingian knot

I'd be super turned off by that.
"Who goes there?"
"Only people needing PT in the waters."

I think it was more than that…. But there were definitely parts of the place that seemed like a medical clinic.

 

[pkondz]

Merovingian knot

Never heard of it... sounds interesting.

 

[Steppesister]

V is for: Vacation Continues in Bologna​

Early the next morning, Anara and I packed up the rental car and headed down the mountains out of Petrognano. The drive to Bologna would take about an hour and 45 minutes and my first photo in Bologna was at 11:30. If memory serves, we probably left about 9:00 and stopped for gas near the drop off location so we didn’t get charged a million dollars for rental car company gas.

I also believe this is where we took an incredibly frustrating wrong turn. If you miss an exit or interchange, you WILL end up on the Highway of Unending Hell near Florence. I cannot overstate this: Do NOT miss a turn. Unless you have an extra hour to burn making the same mistake over and over and over. The signage was not very clear and if it was, it was difficult to follow which ended up making for a tense little bit of navigating.

Ok, out of purgatory and back on the right road....

One fun fact: The A1 highway has several really, REALLY long tunnels and one boasts the claim to fame that it’s the longest TBM- (Tunnel Boring Machine) made tunnel in the European Union to date. It’s called the Santa Lucia Tunnel and is over 7.5 km long! I didn’t know that at the time, of course, but I do remember that Anara and I kept exclaiming how incredibly long it was and wondering if it’d ever end!!!

​

https://www.marcantonini.com/en/hig...the-largest-tbm-in-europe-has-been-completed/

Storytime with Steppe:​

I dropped off the car and was careful to do a walk around and even took a couple of photos. Just in case, ya know. The parking lot was a couple of blocks away from the actual office, and when we dropped the keys off there, I was told that they did not have someone available who could go over and check it in for us. However, the clerk said,"It’s ok, you’re good to go."

Word to the wise, never do that.

Jump forward to several weeks after I got to Arizona, long since dropping that car off…. I get this email saying there was damage to the driver’s side mirror. Oh? Hmm… While I was pretty sure it was a scam, there was no way of knowing since they didn’t look at it with me and maybe I'd missed something. In the same way, there was no way of THEM knowing either and that’s what should have clued me in. I confess, I did panic a bit and tried to reach out to the company. I even replied to the email and was told, “You’ll need to wire us some money or give us your CC number.” That’s when it was game over for them. If there was damage, too bad, Losers. Come and check your car in next time.
The End.

Anyways, the car was dropped off and we then found a little place to grab a bite of lunch before finding a taxi to take us to our Airbnb for the next 2 nights. It was neither inspiring nor delicious. But it filled the void and held us off until dinner. We’d more than make up for that lackluster waste of money later….

​

Our Airbnb turned out to be nothing very special at all. Again, like lunch, it was adequate and clean, but very sterile and ho-hum. It was set back into a courtyard very near the city’s main piazza, so the proximity to what we wanted to see was a bonus.

​

Here’s the listing, should you be interested.

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/1566003?source_impression_id=p3_1707947233_t27ZnsjNa7uxWPPB

Bologna- The City of Porticos and Food!!
​

As an introduction, Bologna is famous for its more than 62 km of porticos most of which are in the city center. These covered promenades are super diverse, some updated with modern touches, some with original fresco work still in place, some very plain with rustic charm. I was smitten with their photographic beauty. Bologna is also where foodies come to die and go to Heaven. Just up the road is Parma where parmesan cheese is born, and Modena where the best balsamic vinegar comes from. It's still in the heart of MeatLand and both potatoes AND pasta live in glorious harmony. Now that the scene is set and your mouth is watering, onto the touring!

A long morning in the car deserved a long walk around town. We didn’t have to walk far at all to find our first of Bologna’s famous porticos. They are everywhere and all so unique and all very beautiful. In fact, our Airbnb was adjacent to one (not the prettiest, but still cool!) and we passed through it many times in our comings and goings.

The Church that Ticked the Pope Off (as another author wrote)​

Our first destination was the Main Piazza to see the amazing San Petronio Basilia.

What a fantastic piece of history this is where you can find gorgeous stained glass, a façade that has its own bizarre history, and even a piece of ground-breaking astronomy for its time.

San Petronio is massive. But while it’s huge in size, its facing is still unfinished. Seriously, it is so odd. But here’s the story:

Construction began in 1390 and Bologna had plans to make it the biggest church on Earth- bigger than St. Peter’s in Vatican. This ticked off the Pope who built a “spite building” next door so it couldn’t expand anymore. But the façade was still undone because no one could agree on HOW to finish it. However, just in 2017 there was a competition, and someone did win, so there’s that. Maybe it'll be finished 700 years later. LOL! The whole thing amuses me.

​

Here’ the article I’m getting my info from:

https://www.amusingplanet.com/2018/12/san-petronio-basilica-church-that.html

Anyway, on the inside:
“The Basilica of San Petronio also boasts of the longest indoor meridian line in the world, measuring 66.8 meters. It was laid in 1656 by the famous Italian astronomer Gian Domenico Cassini. A hole on the roof of the Basilica allows the sun to shine through and make an elliptical spotlight on the meridian marking the passing of days and seasons.

Using the meridian line at San Petronio, Cassini was able to measure the change in diameter of the Sun's disk over the year as the Earth moved toward and then away from the Sun. He concluded the changes in size he measured were consistent with Johannes Kepler's 1609 heliocentric theory, where the Earth was moving around the Sun in an elliptical orbit instead of the Ptolemaic system where the Sun orbited the Earth in an eccentric orbit.”

SAY WHAT?!!!

(A few of the shots of the science-y side of the basilica):

​

The whole inside is soooooo cool! There is this massive astronomical thing going on, a working pendulum, and some seriously amazing stained glass work. Here are a few of the shots I took of the inside:

​

One more sidenote I found interesting... apparently, there is an image of Mohammed burning in Hell, and this church has been saved from a few terrorist attacks in recent years. I didn't see it or even know about it and glad it was saved from being blown up.

We are very glad we visited this church; it was very well worth it; but it was time to move on to some other sites. Of course, we saw a few more of these gorgeous porticos along the way:

The Two Towers: No, not those two towers, the two leaning towers of Bologna, Silly!​

Just around the corner from the Basilica is another landmark of Bologna, the “other leaning towers of Italy”- the ones that most people don’t know about or visit. Sure, Pisa’s is probably prettier, but the Bologna towers lean at a steeper angle making them a bit more awesome. Plus, there are two of them. I know this may come as a shock to you, but this was yet another pissing war that Bologna seemed to be in the habit of having. Two families built these to show which was the more powerful. “Quick, Giovanni, put up another floor, Guido is ahead by 3 feet!”

​

Sadly, the towers no longer accept visitors as they've become too dangerous and could fall at anytime. A huge barrier has been put around them now in case that happens, but it was neat to see them even without being able to climb them.

Art For Everyone's Taste​

Our little stroll through the heart of the city was just delightful. Several artists and buskers were out picking up change as they could and we really enjoyed stopping for a few moments to admire their talents.

​

Just as you approach the church is another work of art: The Fountain of Neptune (we’d seen a few different iterations in several of the cities we’d been to), but this one was…. well, you be the judge. Eh hemmmmm........ It leaves little to the imagination.

(Okay, I'll stop.)​

And it’s never a wrong decision to stop and grab some gelato either during your Italian outings. I’ll leave off with this little beauty so you can drool without the distraction of my more drivel.

​

I’m going to try to get the last few updates up post-haste like, Folks. (See what I did there?) I leave on Tuesday and REALLY want to get this TR finished before I get too wrapped up with my next one. Sorry for the upcoming bombardment, but that’s how it goes sometimes.

 

[Wood Nymph]

I didn’t know that at the time, of course, but I do remember that Anara and I kept exclaiming how incredibly long it was and wondering if it’d ever end!!!

It looks very claustrophobic to me.

Modena where the best balsamic vinegar comes from.

The balsamic vinegar that I buy comes from the Modena region. It is aged 18 years and is delicious.

“The Basilica of San Petronio also boasts of the longest indoor meridian line in the world, measuring 66.8 meters. It was laid in 1656 by the famous Italian astronomer Gian Domenico Cassini. A hole on the roof of the Basilica allows the sun to shine through and make an elliptical spotlight on the meridian marking the passing of days and seasons.

I love the astronomy aspect of the Basilica. It doesn't fit in with the normal theme of a basilica, which makes it even more interesting.

Just around the corner from the Basilica is another landmark of Bologna, the “other leaning towers of Italy”- the ones that most people don’t know about or visit.

I've never heard of them. The competition sounds likely, though.

 

[rdkeim]

Too much to comment on but loving your recent updates. It's wonderful that you have the confidence to get off the beaten path and see the real Italy. The driving - yikes. Gives me anxiety just reading about it Something I could never talk my husband into so I live vicariously through you. You're very lucky that your daughter is a willing travel partner! So many lovely pictures and unique AirBnb's. Takes a lot of research - well done!

 

[pkondz]

Merovingian knot

I looked it up. Very odd tie knot with the skinny part in front of the wide. Don't think I'd do that. Just... looks like it's backwards.

If memory serves, we probably left about 9:00 and stopped for gas near the drop off location so we didn’t get charged a million dollars for rental car company gas.

Correct. If you pay in advance... you pay for a full tank, regardless to how much is left. If you don't... then you pay a much higher rate for what they do put in. Robbery either way.

If you miss an exit or interchange, you WILL end up on the Highway of Unending Hell near Florence.

Oh dear...

The A1 highway has several really, REALLY long tunnels and one boasts the claim to fame that it’s the longest TBM- (Tunnel Boring Machine) made tunnel in the European Union to date.

Huh!

It’s called the Santa Lucia Tunnel and is over 7.5 km long!

I dropped off the car and was careful to do a walk around and even took a couple of photos. Just in case, ya know.

I do that both at the start and end... just in case.

Jump forward to several weeks after I got to Arizona, long since dropping that car off…. I get this email saying there was damage to the driver’s side mirror. Oh? Hmm… While I was pretty sure it was a scam, there was no way of knowing since they didn’t look at it with me and maybe I'd missed something. In the same way, there was no way of THEM knowing either and that’s what should have clued me in. I confess, I did panic a bit and tried to reach out to the company. I even replied to the email and was told, “You’ll need to wire us some money or give us your CC number.” That’s when it was game over for them. If there was damage, too bad, Losers. Come and check your car in next time.
The End.

Yeah, total scam. Glad you didn't fall for it and a warning to future renters.

the proximity to what we wanted to see was a bonus.

Bologna is famous for its more than 62 km of porticos most of which are in the city center.

I did not know that! Huh! 62kms???

Bologna is also where foodies come to die and go to Heaven

Food poisoning?

Bologna is also where foodies come to die and go to Heaven. Just up the road is Parma where parmesan cheese is born, and Modena where the best balsamic vinegar comes from. It's still in the heart of MeatLand and both potatoes AND pasta live in glorious harmony.

That sounds pretty tempting.

a façade that has its own bizarre history,

That's... so jarring!

Construction began in 1390 and Bologna had plans to make it the biggest church on Earth- bigger than St. Peter’s in Vatican.

Really! That's a surprise. Huh!

This ticked off the Pope who built a “spite building” next door so it couldn’t expand anymore.

However, just in 2017 there was a competition, and someone did win, so there’s that. Maybe it'll be finished 700 years later. LOL!

I'll stick around for the result.

The Basilica of San Petronio also boasts of the longest indoor meridian line in the world, measuring 66.8 meters.

Really. Huh! I've heard of churches with meridian lines, but... didn't know there was a "longest one" or that it would be that long.

Cassini was able to measure the change in diameter of the Sun's disk over the year as the Earth moved toward and then away from the Sun. He concluded the changes in size he measured were consistent with Johannes Kepler's 1609 heliocentric theory, where the Earth was moving around the Sun in an elliptical orbit instead of the Ptolemaic system where the Sun orbited the Earth in an eccentric orbit.”

Very interesting. I'm surprised he was able to measure the diameter. On a planetary scale, I'm surprised it's measurable at all.

a working pendulum,

Cool! A Foucault pendulum! Those are cool.

Here are a few of the shots I took of the inside:

Beautiful.

apparently, there is an image of Mohammed burning in Hell, and this church has been saved from a few terrorist attacks in recent years.

Of course, we saw a few more of these gorgeous porticos along the way:

They really are stunning. Nice shots!

the Bologna towers lean at a steeper angle making them a bit more awesome.

Had no idea!

Two families built these to show which was the more powerful. “Quick, Giovanni, put up another floor, Guido is ahead by 3 feet!”

Some things don't change.
Size matters?

Sadly, the towers no longer accept visitors as they've become too dangerous and could fall at anytime. A huge barrier has been put around them now in case that happens,

Frida Kahlo!

The Fountain of Neptune (we’d seen a few different iterations in several of the cities we’d been to), but this one was…. well, you be the judge. Eh hemmmmm........ It leaves little to the imagination.

Yep. Water. Definitely a fountain.

(Okay, I'll stop.)

Oh, no. Not on my account. Go right ahead.

And it’s never a wrong decision to stop and grab some gelato either during your Italian outings.

 

[Steppesister]

I looked it up. Very odd tie knot with the skinny part in front of the wide. Don't think I'd do that. Just... looks like it's backwards.

Correct. If you pay in advance... you pay for a full tank, regardless to how much is left. If you don't... then you pay a much higher rate for what they do put in. Robbery either way.

Oh dear...

Huh!




I do that both at the start and end... just in case.


Yeah, total scam. Glad you didn't fall for it and a warning to future renters.



I did not know that! Huh! 62kms???

Food poisoning?




That sounds pretty tempting.

That's... so jarring!

Really! That's a surprise. Huh!



I'll stick around for the result.

Really. Huh! I've heard of churches with meridian lines, but... didn't know there was a "longest one" or that it would be that long.

Very interesting. I'm surprised he was able to measure the diameter. On a planetary scale, I'm surprised it's measurable at all.

Cool! A Foucault pendulum! Those are cool.

Beautiful.



They really are stunning. Nice shots!

Had no idea!


Some things don't change.
Size matters?



Frida Kahlo!

Yep. Water. Definitely a fountain.




Oh, no. Not on my account. Go right ahead.

More comments later, but you definitely had me laughing out loud at a few of your replies.

 

[Steppesister]

W is for: What a Body!!​

We left off with Anara pooping out and heading back to the Airbnb. I guess gelato can do that to a girl. But not this one- things to see, stuff to do!!

Stashing her safely “home”, I headed back out to nearly where we’d just been and made my way to the Archiginnasio di Bologna and Teatro Anatomico (the Anatomical Theater of the Historical University) housed inside. This is an unbelievable piece of history, and, being someone who’s done a fair bit of human dissection and more anatomy and physiology classes than I care to recount, this was a health professional’s pipe dream kind of place. Here's the Wiki for you to read more should you be interested...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anatomical_theatre_of_the_Archiginnasio

I’ll let the informational signage do the talking for the most part, but I can only imagine how it must have been for the budding medical students of the 1600s. The medical field was booming with new scientific methods and tons of discoveries about the human body and surgery were being made.

​

Almost the entire building was destroyed in WW2 during an air raid, but with meticulous care they recovered the original pieces and rebuilt it all by hand. Truly, that in its own right, is quite an almost impossible feat.

​

This university complex is also home to an incredible library, but I didn’t have time to visit that this trip. Suffice to say, as is true with most historical (or otherwise) institutions, the Archiginnasio is home to roomfuls of amazing art. Every wall was covered in historic frescoes and for FREE I spent quite some time reading the captions that explained the meanings and symbolisms behind the paintings. Many are tributes to former Deans of various schools or to patrons of the students or colleges.

​

Even the stairwells are covered in colorful murals that one could linger in awe over. Behold!

This painting really had me super intrigued! What could this even mean... kind of reminiscent of the the Illuminati or Freemasons.

​

And now enter the almost sacred halls of the Anatomical Theater. Imagine eager young med students watching the careful work of their master from these magnificent hardwood benches. Each body system exposed layer by layer and the wonders of human anatomy going from textbook to tangible.

​

Realizing everyone has their own philosophy and belief system, I can only share my own thoughts as I went through the same process 400 years after those students: The study of the human body from organ to cell made me stand in awe of its complexity and drew me closer to my Creator with how intricate and precise its workings. I sat for quite some minutes conjuring up scenes of robust discussion between teacher and students as they learned how to perform tonsillectomies, appendectomies, and other surgeries just then becoming understood. This space held a definite and palpable reverence with hushed voices and deep contemplation. Eventually, I took my leave saying a silent thanks for my medical predecessors and all of their ground-breaking work that laid the foundations for what we enjoy today.

Eventually, I made my way to collect Anara so we could go and find some dinner. We ended up at Ristorante Teresina and it was fantastic!!! As you can tell from a few of the photos, it was still light out when we were eating almost 9:00 at night. I can’t tell you exactly what we got, but it looks like there was a tortellini soup, some tagliatelle with Bolognese (when in Bologna…), and the potato flan on pumpkin puree which I remember being out of this world! As I’ve noted in earlier chapters, it is a crime to have a meal without bread or wine in Italy, so naturally, to avoid prosecution, we enjoyed some of both. The city was alive with activity, shops were open, crowds were in the streets socializing at the local sidewalk bars and restaurants, it was colorful, and there was joy in the air. I could get very used to dinners out on an Italian Summer or Autumn evening.

​

By 10:00 we were in bed and sleeping so we would be ready to embrace another day of the sights Bologna has to offer.

 

[Wood Nymph]

I'm glad that you had a chance to see the anatomical theater. The sculptures in the ceiling panels are very interesting. I can picture the viewing area being jammed pack with the curious as well as true medical people.

 

[pkondz]

We left off with Anara pooping out and heading back to the Airbnb.

Kids these days. No get up and go!

the Anatomical Theater of the Historical University

Love the theater.
Some of my favourite Broadway classics that may have been performed there:
Moulin Rouge Like Blood
The Phantom of the Pancreas
The Sound of Screaming
Les Miserables Bowels
The Sound of Morticians

being someone who’s done a fair bit of human dissection

You have?!?!?!?

and more anatomy and physiology classes than I care to recount,

This doesn't surprise me.

Almost the entire building was destroyed in WW2 during an air raid, but with meticulous care they recovered the original pieces and rebuilt it all by hand.

Whoa. I always find that... incredible.

Truly, that in its own right, is quite an almost impossible feat.

This university complex is also home to an incredible library, but I didn’t have time to visit that this trip.

Meh. We have Readers Digest here too.

Every wall was covered in historic frescoes and for FREE I spent quite some time reading the captions that explained the meanings and symbolisms behind the paintings.

Free???
How to say you're not in America anymore without saying you're not in America anymore.

Even the stairwells are covered in colorful murals that one could linger in awe over. Behold!

This place is far more ornate than I would have expected.
I'm curious if Anara regretted not joining you, later?

Imagine eager young med students watching the careful work of their master from these magnificent hardwood benches. Each body system exposed layer by layer and the wonders of human anatomy going from textbook to tangible.

"as each student in turn puked upon the ornately tiled floor."

I can imagine the scene of the cadaver lying on that slab...

Frankly... gives me the willies.

Dude! Put some pants on! There are children present.

Or...

I like big butts and I cannot lie!

I sat for quite some minutes conjuring up scenes of robust discussion between teacher and students as they learned how to perform tonsillectomies, appendectomies, and other surgeries just then becoming understood.

...without anesthetic. <shudder>

Eventually, I made my way to collect Anara so we could go and find some dinner.

Well!
That's just a little jarring. We went from cadaver carving to dinner in one paragraph.

We ended up at Ristorante Teresina and it was fantastic!!!

Great!

tagliatelle with Bolognese (when in Bologna…),

Oh, man... Yes please!!

As I’ve noted in earlier chapters, it is a crime to have a meal without bread or wine in Italy, so naturally, to avoid prosecution, we enjoyed some of both.

Jimi Hendrix?

Lovely photos of you ladies.

 

[Steppesister]

It looks very claustrophobic to me.

Admittedly, it kinda was.

The balsamic vinegar that I buy comes from the Modena region. It is aged 18 years and is delicious.

Mmm, so yummy! Ever try it on ice cream. I know it sounds funky but it sure it good!

I love the astronomy aspect of the Basilica. It doesn't fit in with the normal theme of a basilica, which makes it even more interesting.

No, it sure doesn't!! And you're right. Lots there and made us stay quite a long time in there.

I've never heard of them. The competition sounds likely, though.

They aren't artistic like a lot of other towers, but they sure have a fun history!

 

[Steppesister]

Too much to comment on but loving your recent updates. It's wonderful that you have the confidence to get off the beaten path and see the real Italy. The driving - yikes. Gives me anxiety just reading about it Something I could never talk my husband into so I live vicariously through you. You're very lucky that your daughter is a willing travel partner! So many lovely pictures and unique AirBnb's. Takes a lot of research - well done!

We were so glad we did go out and try to find things to do that are a bit different.

The driving was certainly an adventure and I am very curious to see how I do on the left side in Australia pretty soon!

Hopefully I haven't made too many planning errors with the trip coming up! EEK!

 

[Steppesister]

I looked it up. Very odd tie knot with the skinny part in front of the wide. Don't think I'd do that. Just... looks like it's backwards.

I kinda like the "odd" knots with extra twists. Makes a statement!

Correct. If you pay in advance... you pay for a full tank, regardless to how much is left. If you don't... then you pay a much higher rate for what they do put in. Robbery either way.

Exactly! I'm MORE than happy to fill up just before returning it.

I do that both at the start and end... just in case.

They say taking video is the best way to deal with this.

Yeah, total scam. Glad you didn't fall for it and a warning to future renters.

The only way that would happen I think is for it to be an inside job. I think?

I did not know that! Huh! 62kms???

That's a LOT of arcade!

Food poisoning?

LOL!!! Nice comeback.

That's... so jarring!

It totally is. Although we saw a couple in Venice with the same unfinished facades.

I'll stick around for the result.

Good luck! Let me know about how plan to go about that.

Really. Huh! I've heard of churches with meridian lines, but... didn't know there was a "longest one" or that it would be that long.

Side note: it's also the largest church in the world built entirely from bricks. (As opposed to marble) This church is really quite something with biggest, longest, etc...

Very interesting. I'm surprised he was able to measure the diameter. On a planetary scale, I'm surprised it's measurable at all.

Agreed. And it's amazing that that's how a lot of astronomical theory came to be discovered!

Cool! A Foucault pendulum! Those are cool.

They are cool! The Smithsonian has a really neat one too. I like the ones with little cones that get knocked over as the day progresses.

Some things don't change.
Size matters?

Frida Kahlo!

Yep!! And for the life of me, I cannot figure out why she is one of the most sketched and painted figures like...ever.

Yep. Water. Definitely a fountain.

Water with a side of porn.

 

[Steppesister]

I'm glad that you had a chance to see the anatomical theater. The sculptures in the ceiling panels are very interesting. I can picture the viewing area being jammed pack with the curious as well as true medical people.

Everything about this place was so well done! The bronzes were really quite something. I do wonder if it was like a privilege to be in there or if it was open to the public or patrons or...? huh!