The ABCs of Greece & Italy! X, Y, and Z, and that Friends is THE END!!! :) See you in Asia and Australia, Join Me THERE!!

[Steppesister]

Always makes such a difference when you have kind, friendly people as hosts.

It really does. I've had really good luck with Airbnb. A few were duds for sure, but in general the folks we rented from were really nice.

What have you got against clean spiders??

I'm sure they can find a place to get clean OUTSIDE!!

I always think of a manual transmission as a built in theft deterrent.

These days... 100%!!!

That sure helps pass the time.

Sure does!!

My first thought was "few dozen? That sounds like a lot." But then I thought it sounded a lot better than "few hundreds".

The pools weren't that big so I'm super glad there weren't many. I think because it was the shoulder season it kept the bigger crowds away too.

I wonder if that's because they have more respect or more efficient trash removal services.

Good question. I think probably a combination? Or maybe people just know there aren't many facilities there and don't take much in the first place?

Was it particularly fragile? Or just more of a "over time that sort of behaviour will wreck it"?

It did seem pretty fragile actually. It didn't take much to break pieces off so we tried to be really careful. I'd think it would see a quicker demise with people climbing all over it willy-nilly.

 

[Steppesister]

If your cell phone pictures don't do the springs area justice, I can't even imagine how gorgeous your big camera pics would be! These are simply stunning--especially love the one where you can see the reflection of the trees in the water. So gorgeous.

It really was a very lovely setting for sure! So pretty!

We're so lucky to have had such nice weather during our trip!

 

[Steppesister]

This made me laugh because I remember having this exact scenario when I went to Hungary with my mom about thirty years ago!! She was driving and I was laughing yet scared at the same time. You are a brave woman!!

I'm sure there's loads for funny videos of this exact scenario of parents and their adult/late teen kids having driving "experiences" overseas. I dunno about brave but I was absolutely determined to see Tuscany!

 

[Steppesister]

What lovely pictures! Love the random cats So nice you could get out of the bigger more touristy areas and really "see" Italy. Getting yourself around comes with it's struggles but so worth it. You and your daughter will always have these memories to talk and laugh about. Boar, no thank you but the wine sounds good. Looking forward to the next chapter!

Thanks!!! I"m so glad we built Tuscany into our itinerary; it's really such a lovely area. And yes, the areas NOT in the big cities is an entirely different Italy!

Every time I call her for more photos to send me we giggle and reminisce which is so fun! And in a few weeks we'll be making even more.

 

[Steppesister]

Running little ol' ladies off the road left and right.

That's me!

I love that. Maybe some day I'll see it for myself.

I truly hope you do!

Hmmm... I sense foreshadowing here...

You might be right.

really like these.

Those were my two favorites as well. I love how the steps lead you in...

Nope. At least not for me. Then again, it's been a while, so...

Next time you're there go into the foyer of the place... Look up. I used to think it was a chandelier straight out the Best Little Whorehouse in Texas (or any other Bordello) but it's really actually a thing apparently in Italy.

Oh! So like if it isn't from Champagne, it's just sparkling wine.

Yes, very much like that.

When in Montepulciano...

.... walk around.

I'm not seeing a phone comment there? Or are you reading between the lines?

Just reading between the lines and extrapolating what the message was implying.

It's in old Latin. Says "All welcome, even centaurs. Try the soup."

You're welcome.

OH!!! Why of course!! I see that now.

Uh, oh....
"Moooommmmm! Where is it????"
"I don't know! Stop asking me!!"
"Moooooommmmmm!!!!"

It was honestly a lot like that. We generally travel well together, but when we're both tired and hungry and have too much time together.... well... you know.

Oh, yes. Familiar with that. Roller suitcases are not designed for old cobblestones.

Definitely not! Venice was by FAR the worse EVER (cobblestones AND bridges!) but it was sucky!

From your description, surprised you found it at all!

It was NOT easy!!! Especially because .... it was dark!

That should be a good sign. And... sounds like the food was good (if a bit on the gamey side for you.)

I think in general it was. I just ordered wrong.

Both look good. I've never had a problem with game meats... I wonder if my reaction would've been different.

I don't know. I've only had a few game meats that didn't taste great and this sure was one.

 

[Steppesister]

I probably would have been tempted to try the wild boar, too, because of its fame. But Anara's meal did look better.

I think it's a good thing to try the foods from where I'm traveling as food is so entwined into the culture; some I've liked, some I've LOVED, and some is not my cup of tea at all. But I'd never know if I hadn't tried!

 

[Steppesister]

I thought that exact same thing before I even saw your caption!!!!

See?!

Oh, dear. At least you can say you tried it!! I wouldn't have been adventurous enough to even try.

You win some, you lose some! I'm glad I tried it for sure!

 

[pkondz]

I'm sure they can find a place to get clean OUTSIDE!!

The pools weren't that big so I'm super glad there weren't many. I think because it was the shoulder season it kept the bigger crowds away too.

That makes sense. Good timing.

It did seem pretty fragile actually. It didn't take much to break pieces off so we tried to be really careful. I'd think it would see a quicker demise with people climbing all over it willy-nilly.

You might be right.

Those were my two favorites as well. I love how the steps lead you in...

Next time you're there go into the foyer of the place... Look up. I used to think it was a chandelier straight out the Best Little Whorehouse in Texas (or any other Bordello) but it's really actually a thing apparently in Italy.

Wait…
Just how many bordellos have you been in????

.... walk around.

It was honestly a lot like that. We generally travel well together, but when we're both tired and hungry and have too much time together.... well... you know.

“Don’t you want to come with Anara and me?”
“No thanks, I’ll walk.”
“But it’s 27 miles!”
“Yes I know.”

 

[Steppesister]

Q is for: The Quiescence of San Gimignano​

As per usual I was up long before Anara, who never seemed to want breakfast. She’s not a coffee drinker and values sleep over the solitude of morning. I confess, when I’m somewhere new to explore sleep just doesn’t seem all that important. On a regular old day here at home, when there are work or study commitments, all bets are off. By nature, I’m far more a night owl than early bird.

All that to say, San Gimignano was the pearl in my oyster, and I was up just as dawn broke. I quickly got dressed, having showered the night before, and slipped out the front door careful not to wake others who shared the common entryway. I tried to make careful note of my steps and landmarks so I could find my way back after my walk.

​

The still dawning sky was clear on the hilltop where the village is perched, but down below laid a blanket of fog dotted with other hilltops peeking up through it.

​

With no destination in mind, I went where my feet and heart led. At times I was outside the old city walls but spent most of my precious alone moments winding through the still quiet little streets passing by closed shops waiting for the busyness of the day to begin.

(Is that some Renaissance art on some random wall right in the middle of town?!)

(A shop FULL of all things coffee!)​

In the distance after the sun came up some church bells rang in the new day which signaled it was time for coffee and pastries. God speaks, I listen.

(This was a rather impressive light!)​

When I started to get the feeling that getting on the road was more important than lingering too much longer, and knowing how long it was going to take me to roust Anara from bed and for her to get ready to go, I headed back to let her know that the MamaBus would be leaving with or without her in 45 minutes. Places to go; things to see; stuff to do!!!

Our suitcases made the same nuclear-loud racket going back down to the car as they did coming into town the night before making sure that the folks who weren’t awakened by the church bells were so by our noisy tourist selves. This time, we took the much shorter, more direct, route that we should have taken the first time we made the trek. It was not dark.

With San Gimignano in the rearview mirror, we set our sights for the town of Pistoia and Collodi where you’ll see a boy with a very long nose.

 

[Wood Nymph]

With no destination in mind, I went where my feet and heart led. At times I was outside the old city walls but spent most of my precious alone moments winding through the still quiet little streets passing by closed shops waiting for the busyness of the day to begin.

It looks like a perfect way to enjoy the city.

 

[missjackiemcg]

What a lovely little morning wander! I'm sure that was such a nice bit of relaxation and alone time during your busy trip. Pictures, gorgeous as always. You have such an eye for capturing the details. I'm so enjoying this TR!

 

[Steppesister]

It looks like a perfect way to enjoy the city.

Such a perfect, quiet hour to stroll. I had it all to myself!

 

[Steppesister]

What a lovely little morning wander! I'm sure that was such a nice bit of relaxation and alone time during your busy trip. Pictures, gorgeous as always. You have such an eye for capturing the details. I'm so enjoying this TR!

It was a little slice of Heaven. I loved the quiet moments like this so much.

Thanks!! I hope to get a ton of wonderful trip photos from my upcoming trip to Australia, Bali and the Philippines too!

 

[pkondz]

She’s not a coffee drinker and values sleep over the solitude of morning.

Not a bad way to be, actually...

when I’m somewhere new to explore sleep just doesn’t seem all that important.

Things to see! You can sleep when you get back.

All that to say, San Gimignano was the pearl in my oyster

So... you're saying it's an irritant.

I tried to make careful note of my steps and landmarks so I could find my way back after my walk.

Liesa walked out the door... and was never seen again. To this day, the townsfolk swear that they can hear a disembodied voice crying out: "Where am I????"

down below laid a blanket of fog dotted with other hilltops peeking up through it.

Nice picture.

I found this so fascinating! What would cause those indentations in the brick? Is that from cold/heat cycles over centuries? Or perhaps it withstood some cannon ball hits in some distant war?

This one too... what are those arches for? Purely decorative? Or was there some purpose?

Love this narrow alley with the bridges at different heights.

(Is that some Renaissance art on some random wall right in the middle of town?!)

It was installed about two years ago and then "distressed" so it would look older.

Well! I'll be.

Love the clock tower

I wonder what this was for? Tying up horses, maybe?

(A shop FULL of all things coffee!)

That got your attention, did it?

signaled it was time for coffee and pastries. God speaks, I listen.

One must do as commanded.

(This was a rather impressive light!)

I can see the light!

knowing how long it was going to take me to roust Anara from bed and for her to get ready to go

3...4... hours?

I headed back to let her know that the MamaBus would be leaving with or without her in 45 minutes.

Nothing gets the heart pumping quicker than being terrified with a threat!

Our suitcases made the same nuclear-loud racket going back down to the car as they did coming into town the night before making sure that the folks who weren’t awakened by the church bells were so by our noisy tourist selves.

Very nice of you to help out.

you’ll see a boy with a very long nose.

I doubt it. You're probably lying.

 

[Steppesister]

R is for: River Underground Right This Way (Pistoia Underground Tour)​

If getting off the beaten path is your kind of thing, this is a perfect spot for you! It’s obscure, funky, and almost completely overlooked by tourists. In fact, there just aren’t many tourists that make it to the town of Pistoia at all. It doesn’t have the notoriety of Siena or even Montepulciano, but we are glad we added this stop to our tour through Tuscany.

Just a little over an hour north from San Gimignano, we found a parking spot in Pistoia near where we thought our anticipated tour of Underground Pistoia began. When we went in to pay, we were told that the tour actually started from a nearby location a few blocks away. We paid our very reasonable fee, about $8 or so, and the ticket seller actually walked us to the little place where the tour began. Unfortunately, this particular tour we’d be on was only conducted in Italian, but our guide would throw in a few tidbits of English if she could. (It wasn’t much.)

A little about the location and its history: The tour follows the original path of the river Brano on top of which was built a hospital that functioned as one of the premiere medical facilities in all of Tuscany up until as late as the late 1800’s! For reference, the hospital operation began in 1348 at the height of the Black Death if that gives you an idea of how long its history actually is! PHEW! Before that, it's served as a convent of sorts and founded in 1277.

Here is a super informative article, should you be more interested. https://www.discovertuscany.com/pistoia/pistoia-underground.html


This article was helpful too:
https://lovefromtuscany.com/where-to-go/cities-in-tuscany/pistoia/pistoia-sotterranea/

Wiki gives a good bit of history:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ospedale_del_Ceppo

If rivers had words, it would tell you the stories of how olive oil was milled here to fund the hospital’s works and of how sojourners and pilgrims would walk along its banks in search of alms, work, or safe refuge. It would wax about how Roman soldiers would cross over it on a bridge whose supports are still standing, and of how prostitutes would service customers in an area of ill-repute by night and become washerwomen by day. Eventually, the river would take on a melancholy sadness as it told you of how it was diverted in the name of progress, for too often it would overflow with too much rain causing distress to the town’s growing population.

​

The tour was supposed to begin in the ancient anatomical theater where aspiring medical students would stand side by side with their mentors practicing autopsies and dissection on a marble table in a small room, but either we were too late, or this part of the tour was omitted. This made me really sad. Instead, we were immediately led down to the underground portion of the tour where my photos begin. (Don’t worry, I make up for this in a few days hence.)

We first went left after arriving into the long tunnel where we saw where the washing happened- the poorer side of town that once was along the river. Although we didn’t understand any of what our tour guide said, it was easy enough to get the gist using the brief English paper guide we were given.

(We came down the stairs on the left, and turned left from there, so this is looking back to where we headed first.)

These signs helped us too, and I wish I'd taken far more photos of them.

​

After this, we made a U-turn and went back the other way. She pointed out a wonderful piece of Roman artifact, other than the arch and supports for the Roman-era bridge later on, a piece of stone/brick used in a diversionary project from centuries ago.

(The arch and supports from the old Roman bridge back the other way.)
​

Back at the start, the light that was let in at a couple of places was enough to make for some neat scenery:

​

From there, she went into a long discussion about the old hospital “Ospedale del Ceppo” founded by a cloister of nuns who originally began it as a women’s shelter. It then became a hospital during the Plague. At some point, around 1400, Pistoia was conquered by Florence, and that government took over the hospital operations. So…. from the archeological finds of pottery, they can place a rough date of manufacture by the stamp it has on it. The one you see here is the stamp of Florence, so was made post-1400. Anything earlier would be from the Pistoia-era and older. I didn't get a picture of the Pistoia image although there is one in one of the articles above.​

​

Interestingly, all of the refuse from the hospital, the plague-infested patients’ dishes and cookware, etc… were tossed into the river, as it was used for sewage and garbage. This flowed straight to where the women washed clothing; we all know what happens when Plague cooties get spread into water sources. No wonder half the population died. It didn't help that the sick shared up to 4 to a bed! ​

Our guide continued on and pointed out the area where another water wheel was used to operate a forge. Amazingly, farm tools were made there until only 40 or so years ago!! Say WHAT?!​

(You can see the skylight that the guy from one of those articles up there talks about. It was there so the workers could look up and out and make sure the millworks were working.)

​

On our way back we, passed a few side tunnels. I'd have given my right arm to be able to go exploring on my own!! (I'm left-handed.)

​

With that, our hour-long tour was over, and we headed back to daylight. ​

​

We definitely needed to get on our way and head to our Airbnb for the night. The thought of driving in the dark was terrifying. I wouldn’t know just how terrifying until I had to.​

Until next time, Folks.​

 

[pkondz]

It’s obscure, funky, and almost completely overlooked by tourists.

Nice. Not crowded is a good thing.

the ticket seller actually walked us to the little place where the tour began.

Nice of him/here.

Unfortunately, this particular tour we’d be on was only conducted in Italian, but our guide would throw in a few tidbits of English if she could. (It wasn’t much.)

Well.... considering it was supposed to be in Italian, I'd say that was very generous of the guide to do any at all.

a hospital that functioned as one of the premiere medical facilities in all of Tuscany up until as late as the late 1800’s! For reference, the hospital operation began in 1348 at the height of the Black Death if that gives you an idea of how long its history actually is!

Holy cow!

how prostitutes would service customers in an area of ill-repute by night and become washerwomen by day.

Even then, people had to hold down two jobs to get by.

for too often it would overflow with too much rain causing distress to the town’s growing population.

​

Yeah... that expression... "Great. Flooded again."

medical students would stand side by side with their mentors practicing autopsies and dissection on a marble table in a small room,

Everyone needs a hobby.

but either we were too late, or this part of the tour was omitted.

Too bad. No trying your hand at an autopsy for you. I guess they get their "volunteers" from the tourists who wander off on their own.

We first went left after arriving into the long tunnel where we saw where the washing happened

And to the right is where the servicing happens....

She pointed out a wonderful piece of Roman artifact, other than the arch and supports for the Roman-era bridge later on, a piece of stone/brick used in a diversionary project from centuries ago.

Cool! I wonder what it says. I know Aqua, of course, but... the other word looks like aventur... adventure? As in water undertaking, perhaps?

(The arch and supports from the old Roman bridge back the other way.)

I love stuff like that.

Love the green.

Interestingly, all of the refuse from the hospital, the plague-infested patients’ dishes and cookware, etc… were tossed into the river, as it was used for sewage and garbage. This flowed straight to where the women washed clothing; we all know what happens when Plague cooties get spread into water sources. No wonder half the population died. It didn't help that the sick shared up to 4 to a bed!

Our guide continued on and pointed out the area where another water wheel was used to operate a forge. Amazingly, farm tools were made there until only 40 or so years ago!! Say WHAT?!

No way!! How cool is that?!?

I'd have given my right arm to be able to go exploring on my own!! (I'm left-handed.)

The thought of driving in the dark was terrifying. I wouldn’t know just how terrifying until I had to.

Uh, oh...

 

[Wood Nymph]

The tunnel is fascinating. It is hard to image what it would have been like to work underground like this. Is the tunnel only under the hospital or does it run under more area than that. I read some of the supporting lit but I had a hard time understanding how extensive it is.

It almost reminds me of books like Phantom of the Opera and Les Miserable with descriptions of their underground areas.

 

[missjackiemcg]

Wow, what a cool find! It's a shame more people don't venture there.

On our way back we, passed a few side tunnels. I'd have given my right arm to be able to go exploring on my own!! (I'm left-handed.)

I was thinking the same thing--it would be really cool to be able to wander through these areas and explore a bit more.

 

[Steppesister]

S is for: Sumptuous Landscapes, Serene Shelters, and a Simpleton​

Time is ticking away and I still have a few more days to cover with this TR before I launch once again into exploring this big, beautiful world. So, on we march!!

After our surprisingly good tour of the Pistoia Underground, we once again set our sights northward and journeyed on towards Petrognano where we’d spend the next 2 nights. This ended up being the perfect place to use as a base for venturing out into a bit more of Tuscany.

The countryside was as beautiful as what it had been already up to this point. This section of travel was everything I had ever dreamed of Tuscany looking like and more. It was an absolutely perfect day with little puffy clouds floating above giving a bit of interest to my photos. The air was warm, and the fields were mowed giving a patchwork quilt effect to the rolling hills. We took the backroads as much as we could, and the scenic dividends paid off with high-yield adoration for this exquisite area of Italy. If I had a gazillion bucks, I’d buy a villa and move there forever.

​

As our destination neared, the route had us begin to climb. Changing from gentle curves through the rolling hills to now ever steeper and outright hairpin turns, we arrived in Collodi, our first stop and the birthplace of Carlo Lorenzini. Lorenzini’s penname was Carlo Collodi, and is of course, best known for his story of Pinocchio.

From Wiki, “In 1880, he began writing Storia di un burattino (Story of a Marionette), also called Le avventure di Pinocchio, which was published weekly in Giornale per i bambini. Pinocchio was adapted into a 1940 film by Disney that is considered to be one of Disney's greatest films.”

Also from Wiki:



“Like many Tuscan folk tales, Pinocchio has important moral lessons for children: e.g., disobedience does not pay, telling lies is seldom prudent, and boys who love and take care of their parents will be rewarded. Its pedagogical mission notwithstanding, the story remains a timeless classic.”

I had also read in another source that it represented many early Italian values such as hard work, honesty and integrity. I absolutely love the story myself and feel it was a perfect way to get his messages across.

Once we got into the “town” we found a parking spot (do NOT ask me how many times I either stalled the car on the hills or blocked traffic trying to turn around on the narrow little road of the village) and started to wander around. There are approximately 4,204,394 sculptures of the long-nosed puppet-turned-boy and it was fun to see the various renditions.

​

A few vendors had souvenir stands set up with every size and shape of Pinocchio one could ever imagine. We browsed and agreed to come back a bit later.

​

Long before the trip, I’d researched this little village and had my heart set on visiting the villa set high up on the hill.

​

We popped into a little café (coffee shop) to ask how to get there, but this, Friends, is REAL Italy. Very little English is spoken here. The shopkeeper did the best he could at giving directions and I did my best at understanding, and yet somehow what we had there was a failure to communicate. Down that way, up the hill, Charlie Brown Grownup mashup, blah, blah, blah…. I bought a cookie for the use of his bathroom and then we ended up on a trail that went almost quite literally up the hill. The switchbacks were super steep and after a few hundred yards, I decided that the large and beautiful villa on the side of Mt. Everest just wasn’t that intriguing after all.

Fine. I’ll buy a Pinocchio and pretend I was an in shape 20-something year old and call myself a real tourist. Carlo Collodi would be so proud. Or send me off to the mouth of a whale. Either way, I wasn’t going up that mountain.

I did end up with a little carved wooden marionette that's about 6 or so inches tall and is just perfect for my “someday-I’ll-get-around-to-it” Travels-Around-the-World Italy display.

We left Collodi glad that we’d stopped in to see it. It’s honestly nothing special in terms of drop-dead gorgeous architecture or scenery, but the history is truly wonderful and is a place that makes the world richer and more interesting.

Happy with my purchase, we set off for the very small village of Petrognano set on the side of a very steep hillside overlooking the gentle, golden rolling hills of the Valley of Lucca at its feet. We had quite a bit of trouble finding the estate and ended up having to call up our host who, in quite broken English, very patiently guided us in. “Turn left at the big tractor parked where they’re harvesting the olives.” “Turn right at the big church with the cemetery at the side.” “Keep right at the fork at the sign with the flowers on it.”…. It was not easy trying to drive a stick shift on very narrow roads with hairpin turns AND try to look for the landmarks. Anara was about peeing herself laughing at me.

We finally made it and parked where he’d asked us to, right next to the men delivering a load of firewood for the winter. This was as authentic of a rural homestay as Rita’s estate in Bari and I immediately fell head-over-heels in love with where we’d chosen. Yes, it was rural. Yes, it was hard to get to and definitely out of the way, but this was the real deal. Our host, Paolo, greeted us warmly and helped us with our bags into our little suite. We were in a fully equipped little one-bedroom with a kitchenette, bedroom, and bathroom. Here is the description from our Airbnb listing:

​

The stone stair lead to the upstairs bedroom which held ancient hardwood furniture- chests, dressers, the bed, etc... and the door about halfway up the stairs is to the bathroom (shower, toilet, and sink).

Sounds dreamy, no?

And it was. THIS is what I’d envisioned in coming to Tuscany. Many times, in the drudgery of work, on my hardest days, I’d daydream of sitting with a giant goblet of Tuscan red wine overlooking this view with not one care in the world, feet up, warm sunshine on my face. I found it in Petrognano.

​

Trouble was… I didn’t have any wine!! Once we got settled in a bit, the host had come out and asked if everything was okay, and I mentioned that I’d like to find a place for: A) dinner and B) a bottle of wine. He solved one of my problems. In that moment a lack of wine was a problem.

He said, this is no problem, I will bring you a bottle right away!!! And with that I sat with my feet up, warm sunshine and a giant smile on my face, and not a care in the world. Until I began to get hungry. It was getting on towards dusk and driving in the DAYtime was hard enough. I started to get antsy to find the restaurant that Paolo had recommended while we could still see the landmarks. Yes, I kept my imbibing within safe-to-drive amounts, in case you’re cringing.

A view of the Lucca Valley down below as we left for dinner:

​

Only making one wrong turn into what turned into a very narrow alley too small to drive through and having to back all the way out dodging… everything…. we made it to the restaurant which was rather dark for a place that’s supposed to be, you know, open. Paolo's wine was better than his knowledge of local business hours.

The nice lady delivering produce let us know that they’d be open in a few days again. Great. By now it was totally dark out. She gave us another recommendation for the next village over and we hoped we’d have better luck. That’s the danger of traveling on the shoulder seasons in Italy and Greece. Tons of businesses cut WAY back on hours and days and it can get dicey finding a place to eat.

Groping our way through MORE precarious driving conditions and trying to find this place like a not-so-funny game of Marco Polo in the pool, we did finally find it. Or at least one that we hoped was open. As we got out of the car, however, we weren’t altogether very hopeful and had resigned ourselves to going to bed hungrier than Pinocchio in one of Stromboli's cages. There were no cars in the parking lot, it was dark-ish, and seemed pretty quiet and lonely. But we tugged on the door and lo and behold it opened into a nice, inviting, yet altogether empty dining room. A host (owner-operator?) came out and greeted us and enthusiastically welcomed us in and told us that we were his very first customers of the evening and promised a wonderful meal for us! Hallelujah!!!

​

Sadly, I didn’t write down or take a photo of the name of this place so have zero idea exactly what or where it was. But I can attest to the fact that it was indeed wonderful! We opted to eat like little porkers ordering far more food than we could handle but made a magnificent dent in it nonetheless. Our first course was a meat and cheese board with other local goodies- one was clearly roasted eggplant, and another was obviously jam, but that middle one is a complete mystery to me even with a photo. Sorry folks, I have not one single clue as to what it could have been!

​

We split the Tuscan steak with oven-roasted veggies which was mouth-watering; it was cooked to absolute perfection. Far too full for dessert, we had our leftovers packaged up which came in handy for the next night’s dinner.

​

It may not come as a surprise that finding our way home was only slightly challenging. Yes, Anara took yet another opportunity to bust a gut laughing at dear old mom trying to navigate the twisting, winding roads, in the dark, with a stick shift, uphill. Yes, we turned down the same alley that was not a street and had to back all the way out again. Yes, we made it home quite late and more than ready for a good night’s sleep.

We’d had plenty of practice sleeping under mosquito nets from our many years in K-stan, so this was not something altogether novel. In fact, it brought back many memories of “tucking in” at night to keep from being eaten alive. Despite the holes at the top we made out okay and woke up unscathed with most of our blood where it belonged.

Maybe this little guy that shared our space kept the mosquitos at bay??

​

Waking up to views like this doesn’t totally suck and with a good nest’s rest behind us we were ready for a brand new day….

​

 

[pkondz]

This section of travel was everything I had ever dreamed of Tuscany looking like and more.

Great! You're sure making it sound inviting.

the fields were mowed

Mowed????

If I had a gazillion bucks, I’d buy a villa and move there forever.

Actually, I think you could do it for less. Much less. Even less than a billion dollars.

Gorgeous.

Really like this artsy little shot.

Wow!

Love this too. Reminds me of a scene from the movie Gladiator.

Changing from gentle curves through the rolling hills to now ever steeper and outright hairpin turns

Good thing you had earlier practice with the standard transmission.

the birthplace of Carlo Lorenzini. Lorenzini’s penname was Carlo Collodi, and is of course, best known for his story of Pinocchio.

Cool!

important moral lessons for children: e.g., disobedience does not pay, telling lies is seldom prudent, and boys who love and take care of their parents will be rewarded.

hmmm...
Don't think those lessons are being taught overly much these days.

do NOT ask me how many times I either stalled the car on the hills or blocked traffic trying to turn around on the narrow little road of the village

Oh dear...

Disregard my earlier comment about the transmission practice.

There are approximately 4,204,394

"approximately"... You're right. there are 4,204, 395.

I know just what's going on here!

A few vendors had souvenir stands set up with every size and shape of Pinocchio one could ever imagine.

I dunno... I can imagine quite a few...

Okay... after seeing the photos, I'll cede the point.

We popped into a little café (coffee shop)

Thanks for clarifying. Had no idea.

somehow what we had there was a failure to communicate.

I bought a cookie for the use of his bathroom

I'd buy a cookie even without having to use it.

The switchbacks were super steep and after a few hundred yards, I decided that the large and beautiful villa on the side of Mt. Everest just wasn’t that intriguing after all.

But... sorry about that.

I did end up with a little carved wooden marionette that's about 6 or so inches tall and is just perfect for my “someday-I’ll-get-around-to-it” Travels-Around-the-World Italy display.

the very small village of Petrognano set on the side of a very steep hillside overlooking the gentle, golden rolling hills of the Valley of Lucca at its feet.

Sounds wonderful.

“Turn left at the big tractor parked where they’re harvesting the olives.”

Love this.

“Turn right at the big church with the cemetery at the side.”

Um... that can apply to... pretty much every church in the world. You're lucky you didn't wind up in another country.

It was not easy trying to drive a stick shift on very narrow roads with hairpin turns AND try to look for the landmarks. Anara was about peeing herself laughing at me.

"Ha. Ha. Ha... Yes. Very funny.... Get out and walk."

This was as authentic of a rural homestay as Rita’s estate in Bari and I immediately fell head-over-heels in love with where we’d chosen.

The stone stair lead to the upstairs bedroom

I like that.

Sounds dreamy, no?

Yes!!

He said, this is no problem, I will bring you a bottle right away!!!

There ya go... Liesa in 7th heaven.

A view of the Lucca Valley down below as we left for dinner:

​

Stunning.

Only making one wrong turn into what turned into a very narrow alley too small to drive through and having to back all the way out dodging… everything

How worried were you about scraping the paint and there goes your insurance?

we made it to the restaurant which was rather dark for a place that’s supposed to be, you know, open. Paolo's wine was better than his knowledge of local business hours.

Uh, oh...

The nice lady delivering produce let us know that they’d be open in a few days again. Great.

A host (owner-operator?) came out and greeted us and enthusiastically welcomed us in and told us that we were his very first customers of the evening and promised a wonderful meal for us! Hallelujah!!!

Great! But... how late was it? You were first??

We opted to eat like little porkers

It may not come as a surprise that finding our way home was only slightly challenging.

Ya don't say...

Yes, we turned down the same alley that was not a street and had to back all the way out again.

No!

Despite the holes at the top we made out okay and woke up unscathed with most of our blood where it belonged.

"most"?????

Maybe this little guy that shared our space kept the mosquitos at bay??

Everyone needs a guardian gecko...

I love this. I have (had?) a very similar photo from Germany.