"Ok, how much does it hurt?"
mine didn't hurt that much, but it wasn't very detailed, and it was on my shoulder. depending on shading, detail, and location, it can hurt a lot. remember it is a needle going into your skin repetitively.
"How long does it take? "
since mine wasn't elaborate, it only took about 30-45 minutes as i recall. more detailed ones can take a lot longer, and sometimes you have to make multiple visits for the bigger ones.
"and is there upkeep at the beginning?"
i got mine at a very reputable place in georgetown. when it was done, they put a plastic covering over it with tape to keep it clean. i don't remember if i had to wait a day to shower or not, but i did have to put a+d ointment (it's a diaper rash ointment) on it for a couple days to help it heal. mine healed in about 3 -4 days, i think, and since then i don't really do anything to it, other than make sure i have suncreen on it whenever it is not covered by clothing.
"Are they expensive?"
it depends on what you have done. mine had multiple colors, but was not elaborate, design-wise. it is about 2" x 3" and it was $80 when i got it in 1997.
i wouldn't do it on vacation. it will be sore the first few days. definately do it at least a week before you go on vacation.
