Steppes In Africa; One Letter at a Time- I is for: Identifying Birds at an Idyllic African Farm-Lodge (6/28)

[pkondz]

I invite you, as graciously and enthusiastically as my hosts throughout the day did, to read on!

The bridges leading to it were washed out and there’d be no stay at the Lake Manyara Lodge.

Oh, no! That's terrible.

There had been a one and only night game drive scheduled there, and that opportunity was now lost.

News just went from bad to worst.

On the other hand, it was nice to know I wouldn’t be the one to worry about re-arranging all the future flights, lodges, game drives, transfers, etc…. The logistics of an African Safari are no joke.

So it all got taken care of? Phew! I can't imagine the amount of rearranging that would take!

They politely said no, because the next day would be a VERY long day on game drive and the Lodge was expecting us for lunch- albeit quite a late one.

"Whadaya mean no? Who's paying for this extravaganza! Eat, shmeat! I can eat anytime! I wanna see some critters!"

Instead, Emanuel suggested a visit to a Maasai Village and a stop at a local market- both of which were on my bucket list.

Okay... nevermind the previous rant. That sounds (and turns out it was) pretty cool.

(Every truck has a fly swatter made from a cow's tail

Erm... bugs were pretty bad, I take it?

(Lake Manyara District is the banana capitol of the country!)

I was just gonna comment on the amount of bananas on that bike!

reptiles especially,

You and your snakes!

I am unsure of the exact species, but it is a: Nile Monitor (unlikely as it was smaller than most Niles get), a Rock Monitor, or a White-throated Monitor.

I tried to figure it out, but my monitor isn't good enough to make our any distinctive markings.

(A herd of donkeys)

Got me curious. I know it's a herd of cattle and horses, but... (was thinking like a murder of crows)
So the correct term is herd... but could also be a drove of donkeys.

The price for my visit would be $50

For what you saw and did... I'd say that was more than reasonable.

I cannot know the hearts of people, but do wonder if they think to themselves, “Oy, it’s hot, I have work to do, and I really don’t want to perform right now.”.

"Oh, yay. The tourists are here..... again.... yippee...."

This is such a cool shot! It looks more like a painting.

I was wrapped by the Chief himself with a blue piece of cloth and a necklace was placed over my head.

Cool!!!

Look at you! Great shot!

Love his smile.

This is such a terrific shot.

Dude's getting some air!
I had seen this on TV, many years ago... but you got to see it for real! How cool is that!?

I was then invited….hmm, no actually pulled, into the dancing

Well okay then.
"No, no, I'll just watch and.... eep!" <yank>

I confess, I absolutely sucked at this and looked like a complete doofus.

I disagree. I think you got that necklace popping as much as the others.

And... didn't quote the vids, but... the men sound like throat singing. I wonder if it is?

I do wonder if they know how deeply appreciative most tourists are at being allowed to have a small glimpse into their way of life.

hmmm... And I wonder if most tourists are in fact appreciative or take it as if they're owed the experience.

I know some people have that sense of entitlement.

A long dancing video with a hilarious finish of the Chief agreeing I was terrible dancer!

"I'm bad!"
Chief: "Yeah!"

The entrance had a large piece of brush beside it and I asked if that was for firewood and I was told "no, it is the door to keep wild animals out at night."

Makes sense.

Interesting that they do it on top of a blade. I wonder why? Does the blade get hot and help, I wonder? No idea!

Another great shot.

A blackboard was in front of the colorful group with one pupil standing proudly in front of them holding a long pointer.

Awww.

However, I will also say, some had been sucking on lollipops and their hands were a total terrific sticky mess. I saw at least two picking their noses, and the grime was beyond comprehension.

Ew... But... I guess kids can be messy anywhere.

A word on this level of poverty (in general): I have lived among the poorest of the poor for a fair amount of my life. They are 1,000% no less happy for it. In fact, I’d argue emphatically, that while things may take a LOT more time to get life done for the poor abroad, they are far happier than many, if not most, of their more affluent counterparts. Life is simpler, there is no keeping up with the Jones, they are for the most part content.

Very interesting comment.

I will also say, however, there are other, complex social issues within this community that definitely need addressing (like domestic abuse). <steps off soapbox>

Oh, dear. Did you see one (or more) of the women being abused?

From the little school-hut, the Chief then invited me into one of his 3 homes to show me what home life is like. I was deeply humbled by this gesture- I don’t know of too many other cultures who would let a perfect stranger into their home to share about the most intimate happenings.

Wow! I'm very surprised he invited you into his home. That's a level of familiarity/welcoming that I certainly wouldn't have expected.

Some of the facts that my host shared were that the Maasai are polygamous and he himself has 3 wives. He is proud of the fact that he takes good care of each one. He goes from home to home as he wishes. He shared that men watch the herds of goats, donkeys, and cattle and women make jewelry, watch the children, and cook.

Fascinating stuff. And it obviously works for them.

I was very nervous about stopping in at all. In hindsight, I wish I had.

Too bad.
But at least you got your things later.

El Wrongo!!! Patience, my dear, patience.

 

[buzzrelly]

Nope, not a dung beetle mound, termites. I'll get to dung beetles soon....

Oops! My bad! You'd think I'd know the difference having been on that Safari as many times as I have!

 

[missjackiemcg]

Liesa! I was 4 pages behind, so didn't multiquote, but am happily caught up on your adventure now. The pictures--incredible as always! I especially loved all of the dancing, pictures of the school and Chief's home. What an opportunity to really see and be part of their culture.

Sorry to hear your stay was interrupted by the flooding! How nice that someone else took care of all the changes though--what a mess that would've been to deal with!

 

[Steppesister]

I is for: Identifying Birds at an Idyllic African Farm-Lodge
May 6th- Pt. 3/4​

After bidding the Chief and Villagers of Lizer Emanyata goodbye, we loaded the Landcruiser and made our way to the village of Mto Wa Mbu- The River of Mosquitos. Emanuel explained that while the name has a negative connotation, the village does not have a disproportionate mosquito problem although it does have quite a few rivers nearby that lead to Lake Manyara. The plan was to learn about local products and lifestyle by visiting a small market with everyday foods and products.

​

Freddie was in the Guide Apprenticeship Phase of his training as a scout/spotter and today was given the job of giving us a tour of the little local market and explaining some of the items that might be unfamiliar to us.

Emanuel parked the car, and we were immediately accosted by a couple of street vendors loaded with all kinds of fabric wraps and jewelry items. Both Emanuel and I told him, “No thank you.” about 14 dozen times. I’ll give it to him; he was very tenacious. Emanuel told Freddie and I that he needed to take care of a few things and that we’d meet at the car in half an hour. Freddie and I entered the market and we played a little game of “name that veggie or fruit” and "what is this used for". Most were familiar to me, but a few of the tropical fruits stumped me.

(The animal feed store)


​

The things that were a bit more interesting to talk about were the various cooking appliances and tools. Most of the locals there cook on propane and the little stoves that they cook on are something akin to what we might take camping- a single burner that fits a single cooking pot. Some are cleverly upcycled from wheel rims. There were slotted spoons, woven baskets, carved wooded utensils, scoops and ladles made from calabash, and handmade rudimentary brooms. The small doughnut-shaped objects are for carrying pots and other loads on heads.

​

There were stalls for bird and animal food, a butcher, some sold fabric, but most were for fruits, vegetables, and dry goods like rice, pastas, and lentils.

(Near the market- the lumbar store)



(Need some new shoes?)





​

It didn’t take more than the allotted half hour to take our little tour and soon we were back at the car meeting up with Emanuel. The same hawker didn’t miss a beat and was right there, showing us the same wares that I’d said no to earlier. Just as we left, Emanuel laughed out loud and told me that it was his brother. Literal or not, I found it as amusing as he did.

The drive to my next lodge, The Plantation, took about 45 minutes as there was a bit of back-tracking to be done. We passed many, many more banana transports as the lush, densely-forested landscape rolled by.

(My favorite of the sodas!)​

As soon as we pulled up to the front entrance of the Plantation Main House, we were met by several staff, some of whom took the luggage to the room and another who led me to the outside patio where a delightfully beautiful table was all set and ready for my arrival. That they held lunch until after 3:00 for me was, in and of itself, an amazing act of service. I was already blown away by the kindness and attention to detail of this incredible oasis in Karatu, Tanzania.

(Lunch with a view!)​

The meal was outstanding but followed suit with all of the other meals I’d had at my accommodations so far- way too much food, but very delicious!

Vegetable soup, local fish with a creamy lemon sauce and tiny pan-fried potatoes, pasta with tomato sauce, pizza (seriously, as if I needed that!) and a green salad. Wine was offered but I declined knowing I’d have a cocktail with dinner.

​

Lunch was absolute bliss- quiet and restful, and just as Andrew, the concierge/liaison I’d been talking with for months in planning, described: A brief interlude before the many long and full days of safari game drives began. The road in, after we turned off the highway, gave me a foretaste of the plethora of birds in the area I might see. I was advised not to leave the gated grounds (not, I don’t think, because it would be dangerous, but it was muddy and they didn’t want the liability of anything that might happen) but it turned out I really didn’t need to.

After lunch, I definitely was anxious to get freshened up and see my room. Little did I know that I was not given a room but an entire HUGE suite! I was blown away. This, my friends, is why shoulder season is a perfect time to head to East Africa. I was the only guest there and was given the best accommodation and the most impeccable service. Anote (Ah-noh-tay), the main manager of Plantation Lodge, escorted me from the Main House to the Olduvai House where I would sleep and gave me a tour pointing out all of the amenities. Fresh water for drinking (always), robes, laundry basket, how the tub worked, the coffee station, etc…. As lovely as it was, I was anxious to explore the grounds as this would be my only afternoon to do so. I splashed some water on my face and then took a little video tour of the lovely suite.

​

I took some stills too, just for fun.

​

Time for a walk, but first some history: The owner is a German lady who had a lifelong dream to open a farm-to-table guest lodge, but went far, far beyond that with this place. It is literally a botanical garden with acres and acres of native and imported plants, several full guest suites, some with kitchenettes, lodging for guides and staff, and has enough art to qualify as a museum of African art. It boasts a full in-ground wine cellar, a full kitchen, a WELL-stocked bar, several dining rooms, sitting rooms, outdoor seating areas, a gorgeous pool, a permanent garden that supplies the kitchen, a coffee plantation nearby, a fishpond, a huge chicken coop, and enough birds to keep even the most enthusiastic birder happy.

​

Continued in next post....

 

[Steppesister]

Continued from previous post...


The owner was not there at the moment as she was on holiday in Germany, but her son was there overseeing some tree removal on the grounds in her stead. He and his family were very friendly when I saw them at breakfast the next morning and shared about her endeavors; I’m still amazed at what his mom has turned the place into. Collecting the art alone must’ve taken years. It was built in 1997 in the German-colonial style and when Tanzania was still called Tanganyika.

Follow me!

(The veggie garden)








(The Pool-house)


​

And now, for the collection of birds I spied while on my little walking tour:

(Black-winged Red Bishop)



(An unidentifiable Sunbird)


(Maybe a Tsavo's Sunbird)



(? Tsavo's Sunbird)




(Speckled Mousebird)



(Another Sunbird- a horrible photo, but adding it to my list after I consult the Tanzanian bird group I'm in.)



(Variable Sunbird)




Here's what a good photo of this spectacular bird looks like!




(African Pied Crow)


(African Pied Wagtail)




(Village Weaver)



(A domesticated goose destined for an African table somewhere) (The Plantation's fish pond)​

My timestamps show that I sat down with my pre-dinner cocktail at 7:30. This makes me think that I probably laid down for a short nap between my walk and dinner. Regardless, Anote came to the suite to escort me to the Main House and the server quickly offered me a cocktail from the small printed menu. This would be the only lodge in which the alcohol was not included. I was happy to pay the $12 for a mixed drink and $8 for a glass of wine with dinner. I don’t remember what it was, only that it was refreshing and a perfect way to continue relaxing before dinner.
The patios were warmly lit with tall light fixtures with punched metal designs and candles added beautiful ambiance to the common areas. Fresh cut greenery or other organics were tastefully added to tabletops giving a very classy look to the decor.

(My view with a cocktail)
​

Dinner was served in a large dining room across the open courtyard and at 8:00 I was seated for dinner. The place setting was absolutely lovely with fresh greens and candlelight. I ordered a glass of red S. African wine to go with the menu for the evening.

(I'm cracking up at the design on the flan- pretty sure it's not intentional, but a fat poodle flan is the best flan!)​

Per usual I ate about half of what I was served and thought I’d skip dessert, but when I realized it was flan, I eagerly accepted. Everything was delicious and perfect and I found myself asleep within minutes of after a long soak in that wonderful tub.

 

[Steppesister]

Friends: I have not forgotten that I am behind on replies. Work weeks are super tough to be on the DIS. I'm headed out to our little town's 4th Festival with the grandkiddlies for the evening but will pick up the DIS again tomorrow as one of the littles is coming for a Grammie sleep-over. Busy-busy! More soon...