ROFR Thread April to June 2022 *PLEASE SEE FIRST POST FOR INSTRUCTIONS & FORMATTING TOOL*

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New to the DIS boards :) Hopefully I have the format correct:

kash92---$173-$25950-150-VGF-Dec-158/21, 150/22, 150/23- seller pays CC, sent 4/19

We know we missed out on the great direct subsidized deals that were out in March, but we didn't know they existed at the time. I saw another contract on here for $158 after our offer that I'm super curious to watch (I hope it's accepted). We figure that, ultimately, we hope to pass ROFR and once that happens, look at other contracts to see what we can offer (there wasn't much in the way of ROFR info to go on in the past several months at VGF).

I'd be curious to hear thoughts from seasoned veterans of the DVC game. With VGF2, do you think the ROFR folks are passing on aggressive contracts because of their own inventory? Thanks in advance!!
I had a contract at $158 that passed ROFR at the end of March (my goal was <$160). You shouldn't have any problems passing ROFR!

It might be slightly harder to get lower prices now since some sellers removed their listings and others willing to negotiave have already had their contracts sold. Plus, who knows what the incentives will be going forward and what effect it'll have. But, I think you should be able to get future VGF contracts in the $165-180 range as long as they're actively selling VGF2 and don't raise direct prices too much.
 
How do you determine, when looking at contracts that have been sitting for awhile, what to offer? Example, like if this one has been sitting for 3+ months (this is just an example) $175-$35000-200-VGF-Feb-0/21, 400/22, 200/23, 200/24. Obviously the double points are nice.

I mean I know that they may not budge or they may counter, but looking at making a full offer and they pay all the closing and maintenance fees.... Too much for a starting offer? Start with less and work way up? I mean 35K is 35K (minus fees) if it's been sitting for awhile.

Just curious what goes into your thought process on how you go about making your first offer?
1) look at ROFR - with VGF since it's currently selling this is not a worry.
2) I usually have a price I want to spend without regard to hurting the sellers feelings.

Some sellers are not reasonable with their asking prices, the above contract looks pretty reasonable. I say shoot for the stars and see what the broker says! (Some brokers are reasonable while others assume buyers are uneducated and try to spin their agenda)
 
Since ROFR may end up taking a lot longer than I anticipated…I have a question. I’m waiting on a resale Saratoga contract to go through ROFR. We currently have direct at Riviera (they’ll both be same use year). Can I book with my direct points at the 7 month mark from when I want to book at Saratoga for the marathon and then later reallocate those points to come from the Saratoga resale contract once (if) it comes through?
 

How do you determine, when looking at contracts that have been sitting for awhile, what to offer? Example, like if this one has been sitting for 3+ months (this is just an example) $175-$35000-200-VGF-Feb-0/21, 400/22, 200/23, 200/24. Obviously the double points are nice.

I mean I know that they may not budge or they may counter, but looking at making a full offer and they pay all the closing and maintenance fees.... Too much for a starting offer? Start with less and work way up? I mean 35K is 35K (minus fees) if it's been sitting for awhile.

Just curious what goes into your thought process on how you go about making your first offer?
Unless it’s “no brainer” cheap, I always offer less per point. A lot of times I’ll offer $10-15/point under the asking price - or more if it’s an overpriced contract.
 
How do you determine, when looking at contracts that have been sitting for awhile, what to offer? Example, like if this one has been sitting for 3+ months (this is just an example) $175-$35000-200-VGF-Feb-0/21, 400/22, 200/23, 200/24. Obviously the double points are nice.

I mean I know that they may not budge or they may counter, but looking at making a full offer and they pay all the closing and maintenance fees.... Too much for a starting offer? Start with less and work way up? I mean 35K is 35K (minus fees) if it's been sitting for awhile.

Just curious what goes into your thought process on how you go about making your first offer?
Some owners are in no rush to sell and it costs them nothing to take them off the listing and use the points for themselves or rent it. It may be a buyers market but it doesn’t mean buyers have all the leverage. It only depends on how much YOU or others are willing to pay for this specific contract. Make an offer. If they reject, meet them on their offer or move on. There will be other opportunities
 
How do you determine, when looking at contracts that have been sitting for awhile, what to offer? Example, like if this one has been sitting for 3+ months (this is just an example) $175-$35000-200-VGF-Feb-0/21, 400/22, 200/23, 200/24. Obviously the double points are nice.

I mean I know that they may not budge or they may counter, but looking at making a full offer and they pay all the closing and maintenance fees.... Too much for a starting offer? Start with less and work way up? I mean 35K is 35K (minus fees) if it's been sitting for awhile.

Just curious what goes into your thought process on how you go about making your first offer?
Pretty much what others said.
Look at ROFR trends. Always offer less then asking unless it really is already listed at the bottom of the ROFR passing line. (my last contract I just submitted was an AKV listed at $130pp. Thats is pushing it in my opinion on passing right now. Also a pretty fair priced starting point. So I just asked for dues. Sellers agreed almost instantly. They are just efficient or were motivated to sell it.

The one before that (waiting on ROFR) was listed for 4months. I sent a significantly lower offer in line where the lower end of current contracts posted on here were passing) A little negotiation and they agreed. We split dues in the end.

Look for loaded contracts.
Value available banked points at what they could be rented out for. Right now $20 per point is a fair value unless their distressed. Use that to determine how much its worth getting that contract at a reduced cost per point or seller pays dues.

Look at time the contract has been listed. Ask the broker if its not shown.

Then shoot for the moon on your offer and ask for seller to pay dues, closing... or whatever your choice. Worst is they say no or counter. Counter back and stick close to your original/lower end of ROFR price per point. Unless its a few dollars off and you want to be done with the negotiations.

Don't waste time thinking about your offers too long. Some other DVC degenerate might just show up with a full price offer. Its not yours until you send deposit.

Walk away if the contract negotiations don't meet your expectations. Some sellers/brokers are really detached from reality with their expectations. There will always be another deal. Trust me. I bid on 5 different contracts in between the two I am waiting on ROFR right now. 10-20% or so saved adds up.
 
Pretty much what others said.
Look at ROFR trends. Always offer less then asking unless it really is already listed at the bottom of the ROFR passing line. (my last contract I just submitted was an AKV listed at $130pp. Thats is pushing it in my opinion on passing right now. Also a pretty fair priced starting point. So I just asked for dues. Sellers agreed almost instantly. They are just efficient or were motivated to sell it.

The one before that (waiting on ROFR) was listed for 4months. I sent a significantly lower offer in line where the lower end of current contracts posted on here were passing) A little negotiation and they agreed. We split dues in the end.

Look for loaded contracts.
Value available banked points at what they could be rented out for. Right now $20 per point is a fair value unless their distressed. Use that to determine how much its worth getting that contract at a reduced cost per point or seller pays dues.

Look at time the contract has been listed. Ask the broker if its not shown.

Then shoot for the moon on your offer and ask for seller to pay dues, closing... or whatever your choice. Worst is they say no or counter. Counter back and stick close to your original/lower end of ROFR price per point. Unless its a few dollars off and you want to be done with the negotiations.

Don't waste time thinking about your offers too long. Some other DVC degenerate might just show up with a full price offer. Its not yours until you send deposit.

Walk away if the contract negotiations don't meet your expectations. Some sellers/brokers are really detached from reality with their expectations. There will always be another deal. Trust me. I bid on 5 different contracts in between the two I am waiting on ROFR right now. 10-20% or so saved adds up.
This was our third attempt at DVC. We tried four years ago for SSR (they were going for around 80/per point on resale at that time) and Disney took them back both times.

Maybe it was the pain of losing two contracts, but we ended up offering the asking on the offer for VGF (with seller paying cc). I’m sure we probably could have gotten them a bit lower, but we wanted to try put something forward that wouldn’t get “Roz’d”. Hopefully that doesn’t make us degenerates :)

I do have a question though, that I’m hoping the group could help answer. What are the advantages (if any) or disadvantages of having different use years at the same resort? We are looking at other potential resales and will certainly be taking the advice above. More specifically, if we have different use years at the same resort, will we be able to combine points for use using either one for 11-month window? Not sure how it works since we haven’t joined the club yet.
 
My son and I contracted Covid the week before we listed our home for sale. I also do not recommend this option! Sorry to hear you are under the weather, wishing you a speedy recovery. Thanks for your dedication to this board, not only is it helpful information, but a great source of entertainment.
Thank you! We barely felt anything Covid-wise, but having to juggle who could interact with which movers/ contractors etc. due to having to isolate was the fun part 😝
 
This was our third attempt at DVC. We tried four years ago for SSR (they were going for around 80/per point on resale at that time) and Disney took them back both times.

Maybe it was the pain of losing two contracts, but we ended up offering the asking on the offer for VGF (with seller paying cc). I’m sure we probably could have gotten them a bit lower, but we wanted to try put something forward that wouldn’t get “Roz’d”. Hopefully that doesn’t make us degenerates :)

I do have a question though, that I’m hoping the group could help answer. What are the advantages (if any) or disadvantages of having different use years at the same resort? We are looking at other potential resales and will certainly be taking the advice above. More specifically, if we have different use years at the same resort, will we be able to combine points for use using either one for 11-month window? Not sure how it works since we haven’t joined the club yet.
Different UY = different membership, so no “combining” points. Would have to transfer points from one membership to the other to make a single reservation.
 
Different UY = different membership, so no “combining” points. Would have to transfer points from one membership to the other to make a single reservation.
Thanks for the answer! So, if I understand correctly, if I had one membership with a use year of Dec and another in say Feb, I could simply transfer points from one to another and then be able to reserve based upon the use year of whichever membership makes sense for my vacation (using the 11 month timeframe)?
 
Since ROFR may end up taking a lot longer than I anticipated…I have a question. I’m waiting on a resale Saratoga contract to go through ROFR. We currently have direct at Riviera (they’ll both be same use year). Can I book with my direct points at the 7 month mark from when I want to book at Saratoga for the marathon and then later reallocate those points to come from the Saratoga resale contract once (if) it comes through?
As long as you are not booking RIV..since the resale points can’t be used there.

But, if you use your direct points for any other resort at 7 months, and then get your resale points, you can modify and reallocate the points…

The exception is borrowing. Those won’t be returned.
 
Thanks for the answer! So, if I understand correctly, if I had one membership with a use year of Dec and another in say Feb, I could simply transfer points from one to another and then be able to reserve based upon the use year of whichever membership makes sense for my vacation (using the 11 month timeframe)?

Not exaclty. Transferred points maintain their own UY so if you moved Dec UY points to Feb UY, the would still only bs valid for the same dates as a Dec UY. You can’t borrow transferred points either so you have to be strategic when doing it to make sure it would work,

UY has no impact on Booking at 11 months. If I want to book a trip in June 2023, no matter what UY I have, I get to book at my home resort in July 2022. The UY of the points just determines which points are eligible to be used.

If you want to use your points regularly together for one trip, it is easier to have one UY. If you have different trips you may want to take, then having more than one is useful as it allows you to travel during banking windows which reduces the risk of ,losing points if you have to change or cancel a trip.
 
As long as you are not booking RIV..since the resale points can’t be used there.

But, if you use your direct points for any other resort at 7 months, and then get your resale points, you can modify and reallocate the points…

The exception is borrowing. Those won’t be returned.
Thank you…appreciate the response!
 
Not exaclty. Transferred points maintain their own UY so if you moved Dec UY points to Feb UY, the would still only bs valid for the same dates as a Dec UY. You can’t borrow transferred points either so you have to be strategic when doing it to make sure it would work,

UY has no impact on Booking at 11 months. If I want to book a trip in June 2023, no matter what UY I have, I get to book at my home resort in July 2022. The UY of the points just determines which points are eligible to be used.

If you want to use your points regularly together for one trip, it is easier to have one UY. If you have different trips you may want to take, then having more than one is useful as it allows you to travel during banking windows which reduces the risk of ,losing points if you have to change or cancel a trip.
To add to what Sandi said, I have 4 use years currently (hopefully only 2 in the next few months) I have learned the hard way that when you book, cancel change etc. combining transferred points from multiple memberships can lead to a MESS!!! It all has to do with the systems automated logic on priority of which points to use for any booking.

The system books first with banked then transferred then bankable points. This automated logic sometimes doesn’t match what you want to do for various reasons. In that case the CM will likely try to find a work around but it will be challenging at best and not possible at worst.

Multiple use years are fine but can definitely cause some headaches.
 
I’m on the Disney fantasy ship right now and only have service since we are docked in at Thomas. Talking to the DVC reps onboard and they said that DVC is interested in buying back OKW & SSR in particular and if we were interested we could meet with a guide and they would make us an offer to buy them back while onboard. With all the ROFR on BWV and BCV I was surprised these weren’t mentioned.
 
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