Purchasing a Stripped Resale

oldwash

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If Borrowed Points don't have to be paid for at the time they are borrowed, how does that square at closing. What if you were buying a Resale right now that the 2017 points were stripped and used in March of 2016. With an April close, am I right that this would be possible? Surely the buyer doesnt get stuck holding the bag?
 
If Borrowed Points don't have to be paid for at the time they are borrowed, how does that square at closing. What if you were buying a Resale right now that the 2017 points were stripped and used in March of 2016. With an April close, am I right that this would be possible? Surely the buyer doesnt get stuck holding the bag?

Yes, the buyer will have to pay the 2017 MF's. The seller could/should credit you for the approximate amount though. No one knows what the MF's will be yet, so they would have to guess.
 
ps, it is almost never worth it to buy a stripped contract unless it is some rare combo of points/resort/UY that you are looking for. Stripped contracts are almost always overvalued and loaded ones undervalued.
 
If Borrowed Points don't have to be paid for at the time they are borrowed, how does that square at closing. What if you were buying a Resale right now that the 2017 points were stripped and used in March of 2016. With an April close, am I right that this would be possible? Surely the buyer doesnt get stuck holding the bag?
Lost point have an inherent value, basically their rental value if nothing else. Stripped contracts generally don't offer the appropriate discount to take this into account. Unless one is looking for something difficult to get in terms of contract size, home resort and UY; A fully loaded contract is often the best deal by far and a stripped contract is essentially never worth it. For example, if you're buying a Dec UY with no 15 or 16 points and all 17 points, the lost points should be worth a minimum of $10 a point assuming one is paying the dues in 17 and 18 without compensation. So $20 a point less assuming there is no reimbursement for the Jan 17 dues. And that still ignores the possibility of banked points.
 

Agreed with other posters here. I only bought a stripped contract (only 40 pts left) bc I really wanted to get into that home resort and I wasn't having luck having one in the points/price I wanted for a while. I was ok with it since it wasn't totally stripped and I was getting tired of always having to look around.

We lucked out and at VGC we actually got super loaded points (2015 and 2016) and so it kinda offset the BLT contract.
 
And if the sellers pay the 2017 dues, that will be money towards your purchase, not actually paying the dues. You'll need to save that money to pay the dues in January.
 
Thanks for all the info. Looking to purchase another Resale and don't really need the 2016 points, but I also don't want to pay for something I'm not getting. Now I know that the $70 a point good/okay deal, is really a $76 a point fair/poor deal.
 
Thanks for all the info. Looking to purchase another Resale and don't really need the 2016 points, but I also don't want to pay for something I'm not getting. Now I know that the $70 a point good/okay deal, is really a $76 a point fair/poor deal.
As I pointed out above, a totally stripped contract is actually a worse deal that just one years maint fees. Now if the difference were appropriately priced I think a stripped contract would be best because it removes some of the aggravations and limitations of dealing with points on shorter notice.
 
What are some opinions on BLT @ $99/pt, no points until 2018, current owner pays 2016 and estimated 2017 dues.
 
What are some opinions on BLT @ $99/pt, no points until 2018, current owner pays 2016 and estimated 2017 dues.
IMO it would depend on UY, who's paying closing and contract size. If Dec and a larger contract I'd say it's a poor deal. IF If the UY is early in the year and it's a smallish contract I'd say it might be a fair to good deal. Compared to buying a fully loaded contract, a price for comparison is at least $99 a point and even then one would have banked points for a loaded contract.
 
What are some opinions on BLT @ $99/pt, no points until 2018, current owner pays 2016 and estimated 2017 dues.

You can rent those points for $13 per point through a well known rental site. So compare a loaded contract with a stripped contract

2015: full set of banked points = $13 per point
2016: full points = $13 per point - dues of $5 = $8 net
2017: full points = $13 per point - dues of $5.50 = 7.50 net (estimate 2017 dues)

vs no points until 2018.

You can see that with a loaded contract (all 2015 points banked all current and forward points) you could rent those points for $28.50 net after dues and have the equivalent of a stripped contract (since you wouldn't be able to use any until 2018 because you rented them).

So $99 for a stripped contract where the seller pays all the dues is equivalent to a $127.50 per point contract where the buyer pays 2016 and 2017 dues.

I've bought two contracts and both had all prior year's points banked and all future points (so a 200 point contract with 400 2016 points available and 200 coming in 2017). And I also rented all of the banked points almost immediately so I lowered my actual cash outlay. In my opinion this is the smartest move financially.

But if it's a small contract at a resort with low availability and the right use year it's not a big deal to buy a stripped contract with no points for two years. But if it's more than 150 points stripped contracts are a bad deal.
 
Thanks for the responses. According to my research BLT Resales are going for about $115 a point with no banked points or $125 with a full year of banked points. That makes $99 a point stripped look reasonable to me as I would rather have that than lose out on renting/selling points as I am learning the system.
The resale is in the use year we want and the right number of points. Please let me know if my prices above are high, or if prices are overinflated right now as they have jumped a good amount from one year ago.
 
Thanks for the responses. According to my research BLT Resales are going for about $115 a point with no banked points or $125 with a full year of banked points. That makes $99 a point stripped look reasonable to me as I would rather have that than lose out on renting/selling points as I am learning the system.
The resale is in the use year we want and the right number of points. Please let me know if my prices above are high, or if prices are overinflated right now as they have jumped a good amount from one year ago.
I used very conservative numbers to reach the point I did. If you use the previous method with $13 a point rental, you'd raise the price to more in the $105 range. Still reasonable if it's a smaller contract but likely not if it's a larger one. But if it's perfect otherwise and difficult to find, I don't see a deal breaker in the numbers.
 
I am finalizing a resale with an August UY that I purchased in December with all the 2015 and 2016 points. In looking at current listings, I see contracts with little or no points for 2015 and/or borrowed points from 2016 listed for around the price I paid for mine three months ago.

Dean, I agree with your financial breakdown of a "normal contract" being worth at least $10 less that a full contract.

IMO making an offer of $10 less or more on the resorts selling for $120 or less for a normal size stripped contract just increases the probability of Disney excising their ROFR.

This is just another problem when trying to secure a stripped contract at a discount rather than paying more for a loaded one.
 
I am finalizing a resale with an August UY that I purchased in December with all the 2015 and 2016 points. In looking at current listings, I see contracts with little or no points for 2015 and/or borrowed points from 2016 listed for around the price I paid for mine three months ago.

Dean, I agree with your financial breakdown of a "normal contract" being worth at least $10 less that a full contract.

IMO making an offer of $10 less or more on the resorts selling for $120 or less for a normal size stripped contract just increases the probability of Disney excising their ROFR.

This is just another problem when trying to secure a stripped contract at a discount rather than paying more for a loaded one.
That's $10 less with the seller paying the dues on both years.
 
That's $10 less with the seller paying the dues on both years.


Do you agree this just increases the possibility of Disney exercising their ROFR? I know there is no statistical rhyme or reason what Disney takes back since we do not know what is on Disney's wait list. In looking at the thread showing the listings that did not pass ROFR, it appears it is due to the dollar amount of the contract per point rather than the status of the current point load (or lack thereof) of that contract.
 
Do you agree this just increases the possibility of Disney exercising their ROFR? I know there is no statistical rhyme or reason what Disney takes back since we do not know what is on Disney's wait list. In looking at the thread showing the listings that did not pass ROFR, it appears it is due to the dollar amount of the contract per point rather than the status of the current point load (or lack thereof) of that contract.
I would argue it doesn't matter for 2 reasons. First, the inherent value difference is what it is no matter the ROFR and second, the sales price differences don't reach the difference in value anyway. Also I don't believe one shouldn't chase the ROFR price in most cases. Don't worry about it, just get an agreement at a price you're comfortable with and see what happens. I'd advise what I have all along, that a loaded contract is the best value and the stripped contracts aren't discounted enough to change that. However, there are other considerations in some cases such as smaller contract needs, UY and home resort.
 
I would argue it doesn't matter for 2 reasons. First, the inherent value difference is what it is no matter the ROFR and second, the sales price differences don't reach the difference in value anyway. Also I don't believe one shouldn't chase the ROFR price in most cases. Don't worry about it, just get an agreement at a price you're comfortable with and see what happens. I'd advise what I have all along, that a loaded contract is the best value and the stripped contracts aren't discounted enough to change that. However, there are other considerations in some cases such as smaller contract needs, UY and home resort.


Understood and agree.

I guess I was coming from the side of the buyer who has negotiated a low price point just to have it taken in the ROFR process. For those of us who have experienced a 30 day wait just to have the contract taken, it is hard to forget.

The one thing I learned was that the "perfect" contract that Disney took was not the only "perfect" (lol) resale contract that met my needs. I surely did not think that when the broker notified me the contract was taken. In my case the ironic thing, there was nothing in the contract that Disney took that was better than the one they passed. At this point, I am happy the first one meet their criteria of need at that time and my second one didn't.
 
Understood and agree.

I guess I was coming from the side of the buyer who has negotiated a low price point just to have it taken in the ROFR process. For those of us who have experienced a 30 day wait just to have the contract taken, it is hard to forget.

The one thing I learned was that the "perfect" contract that Disney took was not the only "perfect" (lol) resale contract that met my needs. I surely did not think that when the broker notified me the contract was taken. In my case the ironic thing, there was nothing in the contract that Disney took that was better than the one they passed. At this point, I am happy the first one meet their criteria of need at that time and my second one didn't.
That's the main purpose of ROFR, to keep you guessing and get you emotional enough to buy direct. I would agree with not letting perfect be the enemy of good but I would suggest that one does enough investigation to get past as much of the emotions as possible. IMO that's a min of about 6 months of active investigation for those who have no prior DVC experience. Once one gets to that point, the ROFR process shouldn't be that big of a deal and it definitely shouldn't cause you to pay more just to get past ROFR. Or put another way, if one isn't to that point they're likely not truly ready to buy.
 
That's the main purpose of ROFR, to keep you guessing and get you emotional enough to buy direct. I would agree with not letting perfect be the enemy of good but I would suggest that one does enough investigation to get past as much of the emotions as possible. IMO that's a min of about 6 months of active investigation for those who have no prior DVC experience. Once one gets to that point, the ROFR process shouldn't be that big of a deal and it definitely shouldn't cause you to pay more just to get past ROFR. Or put another way, if one isn't to that point they're likely not truly ready to buy.

I really don't think it is that sinister. I think there are 2 main purposes:

1) Fill waitlists at a profit for DIS
2) Prevent ultra low price deals from going to customers.

That may be a side effect of it, but I don't believe that is why it exists.
 












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