Price difference between ROFR thread and available contracts

Although the ROFR thread is nice, I also think there is some pressure that people always want to prove they got the "best" deal and post it on there. So this leads to people buying at a price that seems higher that the ROFR thread and not posting since they didn't get the "best" deal, or it would not shock me if a few of the listing (go ahead and flame away) are not shall we say 100% accurate.
That being said there are as always deals to be had, sometimes it's just a matter of luck.

Welp, I clearly didn’t get the memo about posting only the best deals on ROFR thread cuz my $145 for BWV points is just barely a step up from direct sales. 😅 But I passed ROFR easily and got my uy and # of points I wanted and will save almost $5k.. I’m pretty happy. Now just need estoppel and closing doc to make it all real! For me I used the ROFR front page to let me know what I need to bid for it to pass ROFR. I definitely wasn’t necessary looking for the best deal but what will match my budget and most likely pass since I can’t handle the heartbreak to have contracts taken over and over again.
 
Are you allowed to list any of them
Like others have said, fidelity. AlsO resales dvc and dvc Magic resales. There are others out there if you google dvc resales. You just have to be patient and not fall for the pressure tactics some brokers engage in. The way I see it, if the seller is “firm” on a price, then put it in the listing. But they don’t. Because it is a game to get you to pay more than you think is fair. They want you to bid so that they can tell you no and have you doubt yourself and just say ok to a price you never would have gone for. They tried to do that to me about a year ago— this was the shiny agency with the sparkly website. We bid on a listing that had been sitting for a long time, like 8 months 😳. We thought our bid was high— it only took a few dollars off the price- I cannot remember exactly now, but it was a token bid; we wanted this “perfect” contract. The broker called me immediately, literally seconds after I entered our bid online, and he told me that he wouldn’t even give our bid to the seller because he didn’t think he would take less. What? At this point we had purchased 3 other resales elsewhere and bid low and gotten great deals and had never experienced anything like this. He pushed for me to accept the higher price and seemed surprised when I said, let me think about it. I was so turned off that the contract did not seem so perfect anymore. And low and behold, a couple of weeks later a more “perfect” contract showed up elsewhere and the price was a lot better. I do not think it is acceptable for a broker not to run all offers by sellers. I also think if you are not interest in getting an offer, say it in the listing, say you will only take___. Otherwise the “submit your offer” is a come on.
 
I've seen some contracts I would be interested in except there are no points till 2022 and they are asking 2021 prices. If I'm going to buy a 2022 contract, I'll wait until next year and see what the market looks like at that time.
 
I've seen some contracts I would be interested in except there are no points till 2022 and they are asking 2021 prices. If I'm going to buy a 2022 contract, I'll wait until next year and see what the market looks like at that time.
Stripped contracts represent to worst value in DVC resale IMO. Pricing would have to be really low for me to entertain one of those.
 


Hi I'm new to DVC and am doing research on buying a resell contract, can you explain what stripped contracts are? Thank you in advance.

Stripped contracts represent to worst value in DVC resale IMO. Pricing would have to be really low for me to entertain one of those.
 
Hi I'm new to DVC and am doing research on buying a resell contract, can you explain what stripped contracts are? Thank you in advance.

It means there are no points for 2020 or 2021. The seller used them all so your first set of points may be in 2022. I don’t think they’re necessary terrible value because the price per point tends to be lower than a loaded (have all the points or have banked points from 2020) contract especially if you don’t need to travel into 2022. Also no MF due until 2022 which was nice for me. I did see a new listing that has no points until 2023 and so that one I thought was ridiculous for the price they’re asking.
 
Welp, I clearly didn’t get the memo about posting only the best deals on ROFR thread cuz my $145 for BWV points is just barely a step up from direct sales. 😅 But I passed ROFR easily and got my uy and # of points I wanted and will save almost $5k.. I’m pretty happy. Now just need estoppel and closing doc to make it all real! For me I used the ROFR front page to let me know what I need to bid for it to pass ROFR. I definitely wasn’t necessary looking for the best deal but what will match my budget and most likely pass since I can’t handle the heartbreak to have contracts taken over and over again.

The best resale deal is the one that works for you!! Congratulations!!!
 


It means there are no points for 2020 or 2021. The seller used them all so your first set of points may be in 2022. I don’t think they’re necessary terrible value because the price per point tends to be lower than a loaded (have all the points or have banked points from 2020) contract especially if you don’t need to travel into 2022. Also no MF due until 2022 which was nice for me. I did see a new listing that has no points until 2023 and so that one I thought was ridiculous for the price they’re asking.

Thanks!! Well now it's deal hunting time!! If we can do a 2022 trip on points that will be awesome!!
 
It means there are no points for 2020 or 2021. The seller used them all so your first set of points may be in 2022. I don’t think they’re necessary terrible value because the price per point tends to be lower than a loaded (have all the points or have banked points from 2020) contract especially if you don’t need to travel into 2022. Also no MF due until 2022 which was nice for me. I did see a new listing that has no points until 2023 and so that one I thought was ridiculous for the price they’re asking.
I wouldn't worry about it. I paid about $10 more a point than people were getting on this thread at the time, and I haven't lost a wink of sleep. It was the right contact for me and I didn't want it to get away :)
 
In my opinion, the ROFR thread seems overweighted with self congratulatory posts on getting lower priced deals, and stories about brokers crawling back with hard to find prices when they’ve stayed firm on their asking price, or said that they “won’t pay a penny more” than their lowball offer.

This does happen, but a lot of these buyers have had multiple contracts taken, and as far as I can tell seem to have unlimited time and patience in the weeks and months it can take to find these kind of deals, have the contract not pass ROFR, and then repeat the process over and over until it works out. For some it seems like a never ending game.

I’ve gotten a few great deals as well, but the vast majority of my contracts I’ve bought at prices higher than what I see on the ROFR board. They’re still substantially less than paying direct, with prices that to me are reasonable. And I believe in five years whatever we paid will look like a steal. And prices have gone up recently...that what happens with limited inventory.
 
In my opinion, the ROFR thread seems overweighted with self congratulatory posts on getting lower priced deals, and stories about brokers crawling back with hard to find prices when they’ve stayed firm on their asking price, or said that they “won’t pay a penny more” than their lowball offer.

This does happen, but a lot of these buyers have had multiple contracts taken, and as far as I can tell seem to have unlimited time and patience in the weeks and months it can take to find these kind of deals, have the contract not pass ROFR, and then repeat the process over and over until it works out. For some it seems like a never ending game.

I’ve gotten a few great deals as well, but the vast majority of my contracts I’ve bought at prices higher than what I see on the ROFR board. They’re still substantially less than paying direct, with prices that to me are reasonable. And I believe in five years whatever we paid will look like a steal. And prices have gone up recently...that what happens with limited inventory.
I bought in 2012 BWV at $55 per point and SSR at $65 per point I wish I would have bought more but we bought what we could afford at the time without having to finance. The prices definitely keep going up and I agree that what we are paying now will look cheap in a few years too. I hold out for a better deal because I have a lot of DVC points already so I’m in no rush to buy to book my stays, as I already can. We are buying more to stay in bigger rooms going forward and if we find we don’t use them all we will rent out the rest to help cover our dues. I definitely enjoy the hunt and negotiating, but I am in real estate so it’s part of the job too.
 
The ROFR thread lags behind the market, the deals posted were negotiated a month or 2 months or more ago. If the market’s hot/rising the prices posted on the thread will seem low, if the market is falling (which hasn’t happened for awhile) they’ll seem high.
I’ve read that towards the end of the year/early in the next year when people are facing paying their MFs there might be more folks deciding to sell creating a bit more of a buyers market, but don’t know if that is correct - especially since a lot of folks pay MFs on a monthly basis.
 
I have 400 points right now and i am thinking about adding 150 points at CCV . What is stoping me is the dues . With 550 it would be aroud 4000$ every year. Price up or down, thé dues are there to stay. I paid cash for thé two previous contract . I think I will wait untill I had à chance to stay on my points Belfort adding more .
 
I know this is the website for the Orange County Comptroller.
But I don't know how to search by DVC resort.
Can anyone explain how to do it?

https://occompt.com/
This is the site you can use to search for Orange Count deeds: https://or.occompt.com/recorder/eagleweb/docSearch.jsp

If you want to search for a specific resort, go to the advanced tab and enter the resort name in the "Legal Remarks". I usually just enter a part of the name in case it's not recorded exactly the same so for BLT, I put "bay lake" (in quotes), PVB I put polynesian, etc. Due to the volume of contracts being sold, you'll need additional criteria such as the beginning date or a date range. If you want to find anything Disney has sold, put Disney in the Grantor box...anything Disney has bought back put Disney in the Grantee box. I usually put 1 in the "Deed Doc Tax" too to eliminate any gratuitous transfers and only give deeds (you can uncheck a box and just select deeds too, but I just use the $1 method).

Most deeds now include the purchase price, number of points, and use year. Some don't include this and ones taken by Disney also don't include this so it's a little more work. If the purchase price isn't included, you can take the "Deed Doc Tax" and divide by .007 (the tax is $0.70 per $100 of purchase price). There are ways to back into the points using the ownership %, but that's more complicated. Since there aren't too many, I usually just do another search on the sellers to get the points/UY from the original deed. If it's been resold a few times, you might have to go through a few iterations. Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly.
 
This is the site you can use to search for Orange Count deeds: https://or.occompt.com/recorder/eagleweb/docSearch.jsp

If you want to search for a specific resort, go to the advanced tab and enter the resort name in the "Legal Remarks". I usually just enter a part of the name in case it's not recorded exactly the same so for BLT, I put "bay lake" (in quotes), PVB I put polynesian, etc. Due to the volume of contracts being sold, you'll need additional criteria such as the beginning date or a date range. If you want to find anything Disney has sold, put Disney in the Grantor box...anything Disney has bought back put Disney in the Grantee box. I usually put 1 in the "Deed Doc Tax" too to eliminate any gratuitous transfers and only give deeds (you can uncheck a box and just select deeds too, but I just use the $1 method).

Most deeds now include the purchase price, number of points, and use year. Some don't include this and ones taken by Disney also don't include this so it's a little more work. If the purchase price isn't included, you can take the "Deed Doc Tax" and divide by .007 (the tax is $0.70 per $100 of purchase price). There are ways to back into the points using the ownership %, but that's more complicated. Since there aren't too many, I usually just do another search on the sellers to get the points/UY from the original deed. If it's been resold a few times, you might have to go through a few iterations. Once you get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly.

Thank you!!!!!
 

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