Polarizing Filter

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i haven't had the 62mm but i 've had a 58 mm tiffen circular polarizer for yrs and it's in lots better shape( tighter) than the hoya 72mm cp i bought off ebay a few months ago. couldn't say which is better glass but both seem to work equally fine to me. hoya is just way looser in the ring so i wonder if it could slip around some when i adjust it but i am guessing it was well used not gently used as advertised
 
Tiffen makes pretty good filters, but I prefer B+W filters. German made with the precision that is noticeable. More expensive thou......
A good polarizer is a great tool to have in your camera bag. Sky's, foliage and water are all effected by reflection, and a nice effect on the photo.

Try either B&H Photo or Adorama Photo both are very good for mail order places with decent prices.
 
I've got an upcoming shoot--outdoors and a couple hours will be shooting my subjects with the sun directly behind them. :headache:

Has anyone used a Polarizing filter in the past for a situation like this? What were your objectives and results?

I've spoken to two photographer friends who have done the same shoot in the past with the polarizer, and am getting very opposite responses from them. Both are people with strong knowledge levels and who use similar gear to mine.

Anne
 

Based on the technical physics of the polarizer, it will do nothing but make you use a slower shutter speed, but in practice, who knows. If it truly is straight on in your line of sight, then I doubt very seriously that it would help. Is there any way for you to get a different angle?

Kevin
 
Not only is a polarizer not likely to help while shooting into the sun, I'd be concerned that it would increase your chance for flare problems.

Still, I'd bring it along and try it just to see. If you don't see a noticable improvement through the viewfinder, stick it back in your pocket on go on without it.
 
I'm with the others. Polarization is most effective at 90 degrees to the sun. This means that the subject that you are shooting will display maximum polarization at right angles to the sun's position. If you're shooting into the sun, or having the sun behind you the polarization is almost non-existent.

Is the sun high or low? That might change things a bit. What are you trying to acheive with using the polarizer? or with the sun's position in regards to your subject?

Something that I've found out...... polarizers work best with lenses that have higher than 28mm focal length. Wider than that, the polarizing is uneven. Fun but, somewhat odd.

The additional glass on the lens will give you the possibility for more flare too, like Mark said.
 
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I know of conditions when a polarizing filter is beneficial but when should it NOT be used (understanding that it requires adjustment to operate properly in certain circumstances)? If I was to put one on and leave it on all day rather than goofing with interchanging it, when will I wish it wasn’t there?
 
For that matter, when should any filter not be used?
 
Not necessarily a "rule" per se, but CPLs also tend to act as a ND filter, so if you're indoors, I wouldn't use a CPL, as you're stepping down when you don't need to.
 
Not just that, but you are also degrading your image quality a little, so why would you want to use it when it is not needed? I am in the don't use a filter unless it is really needed boat.

Kevin
 
When using a very wide angle lens a polarizer can cause an uneven brightness in the sky, where it is very dark on one side and much lighter on the other side. Some people don't mind this effect, some even like it, some don't care for it at all.

A polarizer will often remove many highlights on water but you may want more highlights than the polarizer allows.

When you wear polarized sunglasses the polarizer can make the viewfinder almost totally dark.

If you already have a filter on the lens a polarizer may cause vignetting, and more flare.

When I am outdoors and have enough light I almost always use a polarizer. To me the boost in color and clarity makes up for the slight image degradation caused by the filter. When shooting into or almost into the sun I am careful to look for flare.
 
When you wear polarized sunglasses the polarizer can make the viewfinder almost totally dark.

I do in fact have Strata lenses so that's an issue. In fact it's those lenses and my partly cloudy sky today that prompted me to ask the question to begin with. Contrast is just so perfect through them I knew I had to have the filter.
 
I do in fact have Strata lenses so that's an issue. In fact it's those lenses and my partly cloudy sky today that prompted me to ask the question to begin with. Contrast is just so perfect through them I knew I had to have the filter.

A CP is one of the filters that I think everyone should have, but do not try to go too cheap on one. Be sure it is multi coated.

Kevin
 
As stated above, you should not use a polarizer when light is very limited. You should use a polarizer when the angle between you, the sun, and your subject is 90 degrees and you want to enhance the blues in the sky. You should use a polarizer when you want to reduce the glare from flat, reflective surfaces like water or glass. In other cases, it's a trade-off.

Even without obvious reflective surfaces, there is often glare present when you have sunlit subjects because little bits of the surfaces of objects in your picture might be reflecting light at you. A polarizer can help with that. In those gray areas between obvious polarizer need and obvious need for more light, it's a judgement call as to how much it will improve your image by polarizing the light, how much it will degrade your image by decreasing the light, and how much you want to hassle with it. Some people use them except where they can't; others use them only when they must.

One other caution is when using wide angles with lots of sky in the picture. The effectiveness of a polarizer falls off gradually as the angle described by the sun, the camera, and sky, gets further from 90 degrees. If the sky in your picture covers a wide set of angles, there can be a noticeable decrease in the polarizing effect across your picture. In my opinion, a sky that shifts in saturation often looks worse than one than one that wasn't well saturated at all.

I suppose that the obvious should also be pointed out. If you want reflections in your image, don't polarize them away. You might like the specular highlights coming off the water. You might want to show someone's reflection in a window. Just because you usually don't want something doesn't mean that you never want it.

Also, use a circular polarizer and not a linear polarizer. You can't tell by looking at them (linear ones are round and rotate too). A linear one will screw up the readings from your exposure meter and might even jack with your auto-focus.
 
I have been studying several internet photography site about taking beach photos. We go to Rosemary Beach FL every year and this year I am going to take family portraits. I have read that I need a circular polarizer to help make blues more blue, etc.

Can anyone give me a little advice on brand and hints on how to use it?

Thanks
 
I have been studying several internet photography site about taking beach photos. We go to Rosemary Beach FL every year and this year I am going to take family portraits. I have read that I need a circular polarizer to help make blues more blue, etc.

Can anyone give me a little advice on brand and hints on how to use it?

Thanks

Sorry... can't answer your question, but I'll make it more complicated....

Why would I want a circular polarized filter as opposed to a linear polarizer? What is the advantage of each?

Thanks...

---Paul in Southern NJ
 
A polarizer polarizes light. Light waves are flat; that is, they bounce up and down (or side to side) in one direction as opposed to twisting all around like a corkscrew. A polarizer is like a screen that only lets through light waves that are bouncing in a particular direction and blocks waves that are bouncing in other directions.

For a lot of light sources, the effect is just that it makes the picture a bit darker. Sometimes, however, light coming at the camera is already polarized. A good example is a reflection off of a piece of glass or some water. In that case, the polarizer can completely remove the reflection letting you see more clearly through the glass or water.

Another example (and here is where the blue part comes in) is that light coming from the sky is a mix of diffuse and polarized light. If you adjust your polarizer just right, you can block a lot of the polarized light and leave more of the blue light. That makes the sky look more saturated. This trick works best if the sun is at a right angle from your subject; that is, if it is directly above you or to your direct left or right. It doesn't work well if the sun is behind or in front of you.

To use a polarizer, you put it on your lens and turn it. As you turn it, look at your viewfinder or LCD preview. You should see the effect increase or decrease. Keep turning the polarizer until you get the effect that you want.

A circular polarizer is almost indistinguishable from a linear polarizer to the naked eye. They were invented because linear polarizers don't work well with exposure meters. The polarized light that comes out of them can mess up your exposure readings. I've been told that they can also confuse some autofocus systems. A circular polarizer is a linear polarizer with an extra bit after the polarizer part that de-polarizes the light. The effect is still the same because the first part blocked the unwanted light waves.
 












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