Plumbing Question

[RUDisney]

I have a weird question.

The toilet in my kids' bathroom stopped refilling immediately when flushed. It takes some time and then you'll hear the water running. This can take up to 3 hours before the water refills the tank.

I know what to do if the water runs repeatedly, but I've never encountered this issue. The water isn't shutoff at the valve. There is no reason that the water shouldn't be flowing back into the tank.

Anyone have advice that I can try before I call a plumber?

 

[DaisyDuck001]

You might need to replace the fill valve.

 

[Skippy918]

Have you tried jiggling the flusher? I’ve had the toilet not fill immediately after flushing, but if I jiggle the flusher it will start filling up the tank. Take the lid off, flush it and see what happens.

 

[RUDisney]

Thank you for your recommendations. I will try this.

 

[bcla]

I agree. Sounds like the fill valve is blocked. It's an extremely simple and cheap repair to do yourself, and there's a chance that there might be something like debris in the fill valve seal. Sometimes it just requires a fill valve seal replacement.

What kind of toilet is it? While vast majority of toilets use common fill valves like the Fluidmaster 400A or Korky QuietFill, there are some that use different valves. But those two (along with variations) are the most common on the market and easy to replace. The only caveat is that a lot of the factory setups use hex nuts where you'll need tools to remove. But replacement fill valves almost always use nuts that can be hand tightened/loosened.

 

[tvguy]

I agree. Sounds like the fill valve is blocked. It's an extremely simple and cheap repair to do yourself, and there's a chance that there might be something like debris in the fill valve seal. Sometimes it just requires a fill valve seal replacement.

What kind of toilet is it? While vast majority of toilets use common fill valves like the Fluidmaster 400A or Korky QuietFill, there are some that use different valves. But those two (along with variations) are the most common on the market and easy to replace. The only caveat is that a lot of the factory setups use hex nuts where you'll need tools to remove. But replacement fill valves almost always use nuts that can be hand tightened/loosened.

Best idea is to open the tank and take a picture with your cell phone so the hardware store can get you the right valve.
We have Kohler toilets that use a different setup, a cylinder.
https://www.amazon.com/KOHLER-GENUI...ocphy=9032424&hvtargid=pla-312805521747&psc=1

 

[bcla]

Best idea is to open the tank and take a picture with your cell phone so the hardware store can get you the right valve.
We have Kohler toilets that use a different setup, a cylinder.
https://www.amazon.com/KOHLER-GENUI...ocphy=9032424&hvtargid=pla-312805521747&psc=1

That's a tower-style flush valve (aka a canister), which works in place of a typical flapper. My dad got a Kohler toilet with one, but that's separate from the fill valve. If the tower is malfunctioning, it will leak.

In this photo, the fill valve is on the left with the refill tube shooting water past the tower into the canister guide to fill the bowl after a flush. But it's the flush valve in the center. Kohler has all these weird modifications to the Fluidmaster 400A, with different colors for the caps in green, red, or light blue. Fluidmaster retail/plumbers ones have a medium blue or gray cap.

https://support.kohler.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001508934-Replace-a-Canister-Flapper-Seal

 

[sam_gordon]

This definitely sounds like the fill valve. I'm guessing something is blocking the float from dropping when the water in the tank drops. Of the three parts (fill valve, flapper, and handle), this is the second easiest to change (the handle is the easiest in my opinion).
1. Shut off water.
2. Drain tank (flush a couple of times, then use a sponge or a shop vac to get rid of the remaining water).
3. Disconnect water from the valve (under the tank).
4. Take old fill valve out (should just be held on by a nut underneath the tank)
5. Put in new valve, attach (again, nut under the tank), and adjust as necessary (follow instructions).
6. Attach water to new valve.
7. Turn on water.

New valve should be <$20, and may take 15-30 minutes to do depending on how hard you have to work on removing the old valve.

 

[Bianca and Bernard]

First thing to check: did someone get behind the toilet and turn the water knob? DD was little, maybe 3, and turned the knob once; we had no water to toilet! It took DH about an hour to figure it out; he checked everything else first. LOL

 

[RUDisney]

First thing to check: did someone get behind the toilet and turn the water knob? DD was little, maybe 3, and turned the knob once; we had no water to toilet! It took DH about an hour to figure it out; he checked everything else first. LOL

Just adults in our house, but I checked that first.

You are all so great! Not only what to check, but instructions on how to change it! I couldn't have asked for more!

And... I've never thought about taking a picture of the tank's innards before. So many times, I've gone to replace the flapper and found that there were multiple sizes. Thankfully, I've always guessed right and didn't have to return for a replacement.

 

[bcla]

Just adults in our house, but I checked that first.

You are all so great! Not only what to check, but instructions on how to change it! I couldn't have asked for more!

And... I've never thought about taking a picture of the tank's innards before. So many times, I've gone to replace the flapper and found that there were multiple sizes. Thankfully, I've always guessed right and didn't have to return for a replacement.

Tell me about it. The traditional 2-inch rubber flapper still exists, but there are so many different variations on it. Kohler had some unique ones in oddball sizes. Fluidmaster (and others) have a rigid plastic 3-inch flapper with adjustments and a silicone seal instead of all rubber. Then there are the towers and flush balls. Or the latest 4-inch ones. I'm not even sure how they work.

Fill valves are odd too. You might still find the old style ball-arm float valve where it floats on top of the water and then triggers the valve to shut off eventually. But most new toilets use something like the Fluidmaster 400A and Korky QuietFill I mentioned earlier. The Fluidmaster has a float that you can see, but the Korky is internal and hard to figure if it's stuck since it's inside. But fill valves are more or less universal unless you're talking a really low-profile toilet. Changing it is easy and possibly a way to fill faster and quieter.

 

[LuvOrlando]

Maybe it's just me but water not showing up where it's supposed to has meant a burst pipe for us in the past. Maybe call your water company and ask if they can do a quick lookup? I would

 

[RUDisney]

Maybe it's just me but water not showing up where it's supposed to has meant a burst pipe for us in the past. Maybe call your water company and ask if they can do a quick lookup? I would

That was my first concern, but after checking that out, I couldn't come up with a reason for this to be happening so I came here.

The fill valve is the culprit. As soon as I jiggle it, the water starts flowing. Now I just have to get out to buy a new one.

 

[sam_gordon]

A burst pipe (more than likely) would give you other indications and isn't going to be a likely culprit in the middle of May.

@RUDisney... one thing of note, if you decide to change the fill valve yourself (TOTALLY doable), do NOT overtighten the new valve onto the tank when you install. Get it hand tight, and if you use a wrench (probably not needed), only give it ~1/4 turn if that much. If you overtighten (because "tighter is better", right?), you might crack the tank and then have to replace that.

Ask me how I know.

 

[RUDisney]

I’ve changed the entirety of the tank innards before, but not for this reason. It’s easy, just a PITA.

 

[goofyernmost]

Sounds exactly like the "Flush Valve" or what is commonly known as the "flap" valve. When the handle is engaged to flush the toilet the flush valve is pulled up by the handle. The lets the water shoot down through the toilet innards pushing whatever is in the bowl out through the pipe. If that flush valve doesn't drop down evenly the tank will not be sealed and the water will run and run until the handle is touched again because the tank will not fill up high enough to seal the flush valve. Sometimes it won't stop running until you have drained the local reservoir or run out of money to pay for the water used. It is an easy fix usually. If you don't mind doing it just easily jiggle on the handle until it gives some resistance. That will tell you that the tank is sealed and it is filling up and not just running through the system and into the sewers.,

 

[sam_gordon]

Sounds exactly like the "Flush Valve" or what is commonly known as the "flap" valve. When the handle is engaged to flush the toilet the flush valve is pulled up by the handle. The lets the water shoot down through the toilet innards pushing whatever is in the bowl out through the pipe. If that flush valve doesn't drop down evenly the tank will not be sealed and the water will run and run until the handle is touched again because the tank will not fill up high enough to seal the flush valve. Sometimes it won't stop running until you have drained the local reservoir or run out of money to pay for the water used. It is an easy fix usually. If you don't mind doing it just easily jiggle on the handle until it gives some resistance. That will tell you that the tank is sealed and it is filling up and not just running through the system and into the sewers.,

The first post says the toilet is flushed, there's a delay, THEN the water starts running. That's not an indicator of the flap valve not sealing. Water wouldn't STOP running in that case.

Post #13 (from the OP) says the fill valve is the issue.

 

[goofyernmost]

The first post says the toilet is flushed, there's a delay, THEN the water starts running. That's not an indicator of the flap valve not sealing. Water wouldn't STOP running in that case.

Post #13 (from the OP) says the fill valve is the issue.

Sorry, I must have read it wrong. There are only three parts to a flush assembly and that is the water valve, the float that regulates the amount of water to go into the tank and the flush valve. It will be one of those three thing. All of which are easy fixes. Those three things are things that have not been changed since the original systems were invented. It doesn't get any more basic. You Tube has probably hundreds of "how to" video's on those replacement procedures.

 

[bcla]

Sorry, I must have read it wrong. There are only three parts to a flush assembly and that is the water valve, the float that regulates the amount of water to go into the tank and the flush valve. It will be one of those three thing. All of which are easy fixes. Those three things are things that have not been changed since the original systems were invented. It doesn't get any more basic. You Tube has probably hundreds of "how to" video's on those replacement procedures.

The fill valve and flush valve are almost always completely separate parts. The fill valve contains some sort of float and a start/stop mechanism. Theoretically one wouldn't need one at all with the lid off and a bucket of water, although there is the issue with the bowl fill. The bowl has to be filled or else there won't be an adequate siphon. I've seen it where gray water was dumped in a toilet and it just sucked out everything in the bowl through the trap. But then the bowl didn't fill and flushing yielded a

What you would describe creates a far different sound though and would be easy to tell by looking in the tank. It would also be easy enough to test by just pouring water from a bucket into the tank and seeing if it leaks. Probably a good idea to shut off the water to the fill valve too.

This is easy enough to troubleshoot if familiar with the parts, but I could imagine that someone who has never done it before might not know what to look for.

 

[_19disnA]

It sounds to me like the mechanism inside the tank is stuck and/or worn out and might need to be replaced. All toilets use some sort of float to control water level (turns water off when water refill has reached the desired level), a water flow valve and the flapper piece that allows water to drain into the toilet bow. If you open the top of the tank, do you see any obvious parts that are broken and/or jammed into each other such that it won't function normally? Years of corrosion can cause valves to get stuck or not allow an adequate flow of water. Sometimes these are fairly flimsy devices, generally made from plastic and they can wear-out over time. Since you mention it does fill but VERY slowly, then clearly the water is on.................the functioning of the mechanism is where I would start. As others have mentioned, it is a fairly basic job most homeowners can do on their own. There are various styles/designs to those mechanisms so taking a picture to your local home improvement store is a good idea. Someone at the store can help you purchase the correct replacement mechanism.

You Tube videos also have a lot of do it yourself examples.