Mythos Restaurant
What: Fine gourmet dining
Where: Opposite Poseidons Fury
Price Range: $$$ - $$$$
This upscale restaurant is the feather in Islands of Adventures culinary cap. In keeping with the unspeakably ancient theme of the island, it is housed (if thats the right word) in an extinct volcano with water cascading down its weathered slopes. Step inside and youve entered a sea cavern whose sinuous walls have been carved out and smoothed by centuries of surging waves. Eerie yet soothing music, of a provenance you just cant seem to place, tinkles through the air. In the main dining room, the caverns roof vaults skyward and a large windowed opening gives out onto the lagoon and a spacious outdoor seating area. Subterranean streams run between the handsome seating areas, with seats upholstered in regal purple. The walls take on the shapes of long-vanished gods and their spirit minions. The effect is only a step or two this side of awesome.
The decorative magic is the work of architectural designer Jordan Mozer, a restaurant wizard who has created spectacular eateries around the world, including the American Grill at Vegas Bellagio Hotel. Even the silverware, plates, glasses, and table decoration, some of which are the work of local Florida artisans, are special. Decor like this is a hard act to follow and you find yourself wondering if the food can rise to the level of your heightened expectations.
Not to worry. The cuisine produced under the direction of chef Mark Wachowiak pays homage to the hallmarks of contemporary cuisine intriguing combinations of ingredients and flavors, dazzling presentations and still manages to taste, well, just plain yummy. The menu changes every two months, with only a few very popular dishes repeated. So although I cant tell you exactly what will be available when you visit, I will try to whet your appetite.
Starters ($5 to $10) always include the Wood Oven Pizza of the Day. These are thin-crusted masterpieces that blend traditional cooking methods (there is a spectacular wood-fired pizza oven in clear view of the dining area) and eclectic ingredients that change with the seasons. One appetizer that has proven a perennial is the Tempura Shrimp Sushi, a miniature work of art served with a wasabi and soy drizzle. Soups are always included among the starters and the ones I have sampled have been ambrosial.
Salads ($5 to $15) range from deceptively simple bowls of mixed baby greens to elaborate entree-sized extravaganzas featuring chicken, shrimp, or fish. Pastas ($12 to $16), are meals in themselves. I especially liked a penne pasta with duck sausage, a bold and hearty combination of flavors that asserted their individuality and never descended to the level of mere sauce.
Entrees ($10 to $22) range from a not so humble cheeseburger to lobster tail smoked with bacon and turkey osso buco. On another occasion, I enjoyed pan-roasted corvina, a deep-sea fish very accurately described by the maitre d as a cross between swordfish and halibut. It was cooked to perfection and served over a bed of garlic mashed potatoes; a very special dish.
In addition to the pizzas, the menu always includes a Risotto of the Day and a superb rendition of those tortilla wraps that have become so trendy lately. You can also count on finding a salmon dish and a steak on the menu. There is a kids menu ($6) featuring simple dishes for the less sophisticated gourmet.
You probably shouldnt have dessert after one of these filling meals, but a glance at the display case near the entrance showcasing the pastry chefs creations ($4 to $7) will convince you to find room anyway. The kitchen pulls out all the stops in presentations for these splendiferous tours de force. The Warm Chocolate Banana Gooey Cake looks like its about to take off thanks to a fanciful helicopter-like arrangement of sugared fried banana strips. Its topped with a small dollop of handmade peanut butter ice cream, which struck me as an odd addition until I tasted it.
The restaurant features an intelligent and reasonably priced wine list of American varietals. Some suggested by-the-glass pairings are made on the menu, but feel free to ask for guidance.
There are some cutesy touches that belie the seriousness of the food. The waiters and waitresses, who in all other respects are typical of the young and friendly service for which Floridas better tourist restaurants are known, have been assigned the names of gods and demigods from Greek mythology, which makes for some odd conversations. Hi, my names Aphrodite and Ill be your server today. Tell me more!
The restaurant seats 180 with an additional 50 seats outdoors, many of them sheltered by the overhanging volcano. Id try for an outdoor seat on a balmy night. Another tip: request the last seating on days when the park is open late. This will give you a chance to stroll through an almost deserted park on your way out.
Reservations are taken at Islands of Adventures central reservations number, (407) 224-9255, but try the restaurants direct line at (407) 224-4534 to feel like a regular. Mythos is open from 11 a.m. to park closing (although it may close as early as 3:30 during slow periods) and the menu remains the same all day. See Good Things To Know About. . . Dining Passes, above, for information on how to dine at Mythos without paying for park admission.
And after youve finished dining, its just a short stroll to either the Incredible Hulk or the Dueling Dragons roller coasters. This could be the best meal youll ever lose!