It's the power of the sun. I shot this with 9 exposures so I could really, really underexpose for that bright background. Three stops under-exposed for this scene and it's still too bright. A different metering mode wouldn't make that much of a difference in this case.
I could have switched to meter just for that highlight and under-exposed that area to blend in later, but everything else would have been pitch black. In fact, that's how my first exposure looked in the bracket. This was at ISO 100, F/11. Maybe I could have stopped down more or dropped the ISO to 50 to control that backlit area, but I saw some detail in the initial exposure on the back of my screen and though I had it right. Not quite, though.
In any case, even having detail in that frame - the background is still going to be brighter than the subject. That's what's really bugging me about this frame. Some people love backlight, but I'm not that much of a fan because it distracts the eye.
Better to just go back at night and take the shot without the backlight.