Photo sharing: Sony Alpha

I thought I'd share some pictures from my daughter's graduation. It was my first 'live fire' use of my NEX-5. The graduation was held in a relatively dark arena. I did use a monopod. I did no post processing of the pictures. Most pictures were taken using the Anti Motion Blur setting.

This first picture give you an idea of the size of the place, using the 18-55mm kit lens:
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This shot was taken with my Minolta Beercan lens and a converter. It's taken all the way across the arena, to where my daughter was playing for the last time with the band, playing a percussion feature:
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I was very pleased with this shot at full zoom with the Beercan:
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I have to say I'm very happy with the low light performance. I had a couple of out of focus shots while she was walking in, but most of the rest came out better than I'd hoped.
 
Nice graduation shots, Jeff!

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what do you mean by a "beer can" lens?
 
Nice graduation shots, Jeff!

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what do you mean by a "beer can" lens?

The 'Beercan' is the nickname for the Minolta 70-210mm F4 lens. It's an older Minolta Maxxum lens that fit the Alpha cameras. It got its name because it closely matches the size of an aluminum beer can.

I got the lens when I had my Alpha DSLRs and while its not a perfect lens, I just fell in love with it. I kept it and got the alpha lens converter for my NEX. The main downside is, while the converter allows for auto focus for some lenses, this is not one of them. Using the MF assist, though, it can be usable.

Down the road, I think I'll still look for an E-Mount telephoto lens, both (hopefully) for a slightly smaller size and mostly for the auto focus. I just can't jump on the $800 Sony lens yet. I'm hoping Tamron or Sigma will make good on their plans for E-Mount lenses.
 
Today I gave my new NEX5 its first real workout - went to the Pittsburgh Zoo. The learning curve is harder for me with this camera - all of my other digital cameras have been Canon, so many of the settings/menus, etc. were similar. I was very leery of going to the zoo without a zoom lens, and I was very tempted to take my Canon SX10Is in case I needed a zoom. But I decided to use only the NEX5 and the 18-55 kit lens.

Overall, I'm very satisfied with my NEX5. The biggest drawback is not having a viewfinder, esp. when taking photos in bright sunlight. It's almost impossible to see the image on the LCD, and I even bought an LCD hood. (LCD Hood) Most of my photos were taken just trusting the camera for focus and exposure, and it did a great job.

I shot most of the photos on Aperture priority; some I tried using Landscape scene.

I used both UV and Circular Polarizing filters on the outdoor shots. A mistake I made was to leave my exposure compensation at -0.3 even with the polarizing filter on; I probably should have put the exposure comp at 0 to account for the effect of the polarizing filter.

I DID miss not having a zoom, but not as much as I feared. Luckily the animals were close enough that I could shoot at 55mm and get a decent photo and then crop for a better shot.

Here are some photos, straight from the camera, shot in jpeg:

Shot at 55mm:
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Same photo, cropped:
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This one is a crop:
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I can't figure out why this scene metered so differently between the two shots:
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and
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And these two - first was shot on Aperture priority, exp. comp. -0.3.
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The next one was shot using Landscape scene mode - notice how much richer the colors are:
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Here are more from my day at the zoo.

Inside the primate house, I was VERY impressed with how the NEX handled the low light without a flash. There's no noise at all on these photos, and the ISO was VERY high (esp. the orangutan baby - ISO1600!!).

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For my photos of the penguins, they were behind very dirty glass in low light. So I tried the handheld twilight mode, and it was AWESOME!! These 2 penguins were taking turns sitting on a nest that had 2 eggs inside.
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Polar bear, out in bright light, behind dirty glass. I wasn't adjusting my circular polarizer filter (didn't want to miss an action shot), but if I had turned it a bit, would that have gotten rid of the reflection in the glass?
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And just a couple of fun photos:
He's playing with a frisbee (I know it kind of looks like a spot on the lens)
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This guy needs to see a dentist:
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And a very interesting sign:
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Verdict? I think I'm really going to like this camera. It can't be beat in low-light situations. I still need a lot more practice to figure out which settings to use when. But even the photos that turned out not-quite-so-good are at least good enough that I can take them into Photoshop Elements and tweak them a bit to make them better. I was very surprised that I didn't miss my "super-zoom" camera as much as I thought I would. But I DO think I'm going to need to buy a zoom lens somewhere down the line.

The one thing I really missed though was the viewfinder. I really, really needed to use a viewfinder in the bright sunlight. I know there's a viewfinder accessory for the NEX, but I think it only works with the 16mm lens? But on the other hand, getting rid of the viewfinder was one of the ways Sony was able to make the NEX so small, and I DO like the small size. Ah, everything comes with tradeoffs, doesn't it? I keep resisting making the move to a dSLR because I don't want to cart around all that heavy equipment. But in order to have a smaller camera, I have to give up something to get that smaller size.
 
Thanks for the pics and perspectives, Amy.

The one thing I have not done with mine is get out in the bright sun. Is it your opinion that the screen hood is pretty much useless? Or did it help in certain situations? How is the fit and finish? I've looked at one at one point, but never got one.

I've also looked at the viewfinder as well, but I don't think it works like a traditional viewfinder, I.E. you get no feedback from the lens, it's just framing the picture for you. I agree that the lack of true view finder is probably the biggest drawback to the camera, but so far I've been able to work around that.

I also hear you on the zoom. While I was able to make my old Minolta work for my grad pictures, I don't really consider it usable for other situations because it took a bit to get it focused. I'll be curious how the new firmware helps with that, but I still think I've decided not to bring that lens to Disney with us this trip. The name of the game is downsizing, for me, so I'll see how the lenses I have work and go from there.

I did look into what Alpha lenses would auto focus with the adapter ring I have and there are options that would come in quite a bit cheaper than the E-Mount Sony zoom, but I think I'm going to hold off and see if any of the third parties come up with a reasonable option down the road. I really hate to compromise and get something bigger, if I can get a reasonable E-Mount down the road.
 
The one thing I have not done with mine is get out in the bright sun. Is it your opinion that the screen hood is pretty much useless? Or did it help in certain situations? How is the fit and finish? I've looked at one at one point, but never got one.

Hi Jeff! I wouldn't say the screen hood is completely useless, but it doesn't help as much as I had hoped. In bright sun with the hood on, you can just barely see enough of the scene to compose your shot, but forget about seeing any details. Sometimes it was impossible to even see the green focus square on the LCD. A lot depends on the angle of the sun. I didn't try any photos w/o the screen hood, so I can't say for sure whether it was a waste of money. Now, when you're in the shade or mottled sunlight, I've noticed that the hood does help quite a bit. It was only $13 or $14, so not a big investment. The fit is nice - only about 1/8 inch thick (if even that), so it doesn't add much bulk to the camera. It snaps on and off easily.

I've also looked at the viewfinder as well, but I don't think it works like a traditional viewfinder, I.E. you get no feedback from the lens, it's just framing the picture for you. I agree that the lack of true view finder is probably the biggest drawback to the camera, but so far I've been able to work around that.

Yeah, that's what I thought, too, when I read about the viewfinder - you can't see what the lens is seeing. All because there's no mirror, and the mirror was removed to make a smaller camera. Trade-offs. :confused3

I also hear you on the zoom. While I was able to make my old Minolta work for my grad pictures, I don't really consider it usable for other situations because it took a bit to get it focused. I'll be curious how the new firmware helps with that, but I still think I've decided not to bring that lens to Disney with us this trip. The name of the game is downsizing, for me, so I'll see how the lenses I have work and go from there.

I did look into what Alpha lenses would auto focus with the adapter ring I have and there are options that would come in quite a bit cheaper than the E-Mount Sony zoom, but I think I'm going to hold off and see if any of the third parties come up with a reasonable option down the road. I really hate to compromise and get something bigger, if I can get a reasonable E-Mount down the road.

Looks like we might be taking a trip to WDW in October, so I've got to decide between now and then what camera I want to use - my SX10Is with its 20x zoom but horrible low-light shots, or my NEX5 w/o a big zoom and no viewfinder to use in bright sun but fantastic low-light shots. And if I decide to go with the NEX, can I find the $$ to invest in a zoom before our trip, or can I do WDW with only the 18-55? I don't want to consider taking both cameras, since the whole idea of buying the NEX was better picture quality w/o the size of a dSLR. Decisions, decisions!

I'm hoping as I get more used to the NEX I can figure out ways to work around the features I'm not too crazy about. I'll keep you posted.
 
Amy, nice shots and good to see you out putting the camera through its paces and trying all the different modes. No better way to get the hang of a camera!

For the LCD issues - two questions: 1. Did you know the LCD has a 'sunny' mode? It's in the menu - the camera defaults to 'auto' but if the auto wasn't triggering enough (especially with a hood on), then you can manually set to sunny mode and the LCD significantly brightens up for viewing in direct sun. 2. I live down here in sunny Florida, so learning to shoot in bright sun is pretty necessary - the NEX has that convenient tilting LCD - did you try tilting the LCD slightly downwards so that the sun wasn't shining directly on it? That's usually all I need to do is tilt the screen a bit so that the screen's own shadow casts across it, and it becomes clear as can be. I even routinely manually focus old legacy lenses on my NEX handheld in direct sun with no problem...it just takes learning how to deal with the sun and angle the LCD. Also just a side note: if you for any reason had polarized sunglasses on, that can be a big part of your problem - LCD panels and polarized glasses do not get along - from certain angles, the LCD can completely disappear. The trick would be either to NOT use polarized glasses when shooting, or to tilt the LCD to the necessary angle to counter the polarization of the lenses.

BTW - on your two landscape shots, what metering mode were you using - multi, centerweight, or spot? I don't think you were using spot from what I can see - so my guess would be one of the first two. The obvious thing I see as to why the camera metered so differently in those two shots is that the first shot, right in the dead-center of the shot, is a large patch of grass sitting in a big shadow of a tree - so the camera was metering off the shadow - that means bigger aperture, slower shutter. In the second shot, all of the grass in the scene is directly lit by sun, which means smaller aperture/faster shutter. It's why the first shot is slightly blown out around the sky because it metered the shadow, and the second shot has deep shadows in the background trees because it was metering the direct sun.
 
Looks like we might be taking a trip to WDW in October, so I've got to decide between now and then what camera I want to use - my SX10Is with its 20x zoom but horrible low-light shots, or my NEX5 w/o a big zoom and no viewfinder to use in bright sun but fantastic low-light shots. And if I decide to go with the NEX, can I find the $$ to invest in a zoom before our trip, or can I do WDW with only the 18-55? I don't want to consider taking both cameras, since the whole idea of buying the NEX was better picture quality w/o the size of a dSLR. Decisions, decisions!

I'm hoping as I get more used to the NEX I can figure out ways to work around the features I'm not too crazy about. I'll keep you posted.

I hope to give you a full report after our trip at the end of July. My plans for that trip are to just bring the 18-55mm and the 16mm with the VCLECU1 wide angle attached.

As far as settings go, aside from what Justin has shared, I've found a couple of good threads by internet searching on NEX tweaks, or something like that. Obviously your tastes may vary, but I've found that using a couple of the minor color tweaks/settings really help what I'm getting out of my camera.
 
BTW - on your two landscape shots, what metering mode were you using - multi, centerweight, or spot? I don't think you were using spot from what I can see - so my guess would be one of the first two. The obvious thing I see as to why the camera metered so differently in those two shots is that the first shot, right in the dead-center of the shot, is a large patch of grass sitting in a big shadow of a tree - so the camera was metering off the shadow - that means bigger aperture, slower shutter. In the second shot, all of the grass in the scene is directly lit by sun, which means smaller aperture/faster shutter. It's why the first shot is slightly blown out around the sky because it metered the shadow, and the second shot has deep shadows in the background trees because it was metering the direct sun.

I have to admit that metering is something I'm almost completely ignorant of. Assuming I'm not going to go out and by a handheld meter, do you have any favorite links where I can learn to make the proper use of the settings in the camera?
 
I can't think of any, other than fishing the camera sites like dpreview for threads on the topic. For me, I honestly really learned about metering a good 20 years into my photography. For the first 20 years shooting with film SLRs, I just didn't know much at all about metering or how to set it - I mostly let the camera do the work (even with manual aperture film cameras, mine still had a little light meter inside, and my goal was to just get the needle somewhere in the middle - I didn't even know why!). Then in 1997 I got my first digital camera, an old floppy-disk FD91 - and it had one important feature which taught me everything I'd ever need to know about metering - a spot meter with a live view. By using the spot meter, and moving about a scene while looking at the LCD - I could literally see the metering changes as I moved, and also see how the camera's aperture/shutter settings changed in relation to the darker/lighter scene. Spot meters are nice and sensitive, so moving across a chessboard in daylight, from black square to white square, results in massive metering differences. It gave me my introduction to what settings were needed for what conditions. Parlaying that into center-weighted metering modes and multi metering modes, I could still get a feel for when I'd be over or underexposing even with an optical viewfinder by glancing at my aperture/shutter when I half-press. I figured out how multipoint metering 'averaged' the scene and over what broad area...then saw how center-weighted metering similarly averaged the scene, but threw a little more importance on the metering in the center of the frame when doing its average. If I was pointing at that landscape above and the majority of the camera's center area was sitting in that tree's shadow, I'd be able to see by the camera's chosen settings that the shutter speed was too slow, or the aperture too large, for the rest of the scene, and would dial in a little -EV to compensate.

Of course, with the NEX you still have the better tool for learning - you have a live view camera that shows you on screen how the exposure is going to look. The problem above for Amy was that she may have been having toruble seeing the LCD well enough to judge the exposure, but assuming you could work around that issue and see the LCD, you could make the adjustment to the metering, or the EV, and see the screen brighten or darken the shadows as needed - once you get the metering just right, half-press the shutter to lock it, and fire. Using that information in the future, you can start to gather by the chosen shutter/aperture combination for your best shot what settings to aim for next time you're shooting in similar light.

Over many years, it just built up to insinct for me now - I've done it long enough and started to memorize the appropriate shutter/aperture needs for different light conditions...so I can usually get decent exposures even with an optical viewfinder. There are a few good metering rules you can learn if you go the 'class' route, which I never did - I've since learned some of those rules (Google 'Sunny 16' if you've never heard of it...it's one of the staples of nailing daylight exposures)...but they could be good tips to learn.
 
I can't think of any, other than fishing the camera sites like dpreview for threads on the topic. For me, I honestly really learned about metering a good 20 years into my photography. For the first 20 years shooting with film SLRs, I just didn't know much at all about metering or how to set it - I mostly let the camera do the work (even with manual aperture film cameras, mine still had a little light meter inside, and my goal was to just get the needle somewhere in the middle - I didn't even know why!). Then in 1997 I got my first digital camera, an old floppy-disk FD91 - and it had one important feature which taught me everything I'd ever need to know about metering - a spot meter with a live view. By using the spot meter, and moving about a scene while looking at the LCD - I could literally see the metering changes as I moved, and also see how the camera's aperture/shutter settings changed in relation to the darker/lighter scene. Spot meters are nice and sensitive, so moving across a chessboard in daylight, from black square to white square, results in massive metering differences. It gave me my introduction to what settings were needed for what conditions. Parlaying that into center-weighted metering modes and multi metering modes, I could still get a feel for when I'd be over or underexposing even with an optical viewfinder by glancing at my aperture/shutter when I half-press. I figured out how multipoint metering 'averaged' the scene and over what broad area...then saw how center-weighted metering similarly averaged the scene, but threw a little more importance on the metering in the center of the frame when doing its average. If I was pointing at that landscape above and the majority of the camera's center area was sitting in that tree's shadow, I'd be able to see by the camera's chosen settings that the shutter speed was too slow, or the aperture too large, for the rest of the scene, and would dial in a little -EV to compensate.

Of course, with the NEX you still have the better tool for learning - you have a live view camera that shows you on screen how the exposure is going to look. The problem above for Amy was that she may have been having toruble seeing the LCD well enough to judge the exposure, but assuming you could work around that issue and see the LCD, you could make the adjustment to the metering, or the EV, and see the screen brighten or darken the shadows as needed - once you get the metering just right, half-press the shutter to lock it, and fire. Using that information in the future, you can start to gather by the chosen shutter/aperture combination for your best shot what settings to aim for next time you're shooting in similar light.

Over many years, it just built up to insinct for me now - I've done it long enough and started to memorize the appropriate shutter/aperture needs for different light conditions...so I can usually get decent exposures even with an optical viewfinder. There are a few good metering rules you can learn if you go the 'class' route, which I never did - I've since learned some of those rules (Google 'Sunny 16' if you've never heard of it...it's one of the staples of nailing daylight exposures)...but they could be good tips to learn.

Cool. Thanks. I'll have to add that to the list... :)
 
Thanks for your comments Justin! And I think you're right - when we first got to the zoo, I still had my sunglasses on (polarized) and took them off when we went into the monkey house and didn't put them back on again. I'll have to remember to try tilting the screen, too - I only did that when I was shooting over the heads of some people a couple of times. As for the "sunny" setting...duh! I remember zipping over it when I first got the camera and was choosing what color background I wanted for the menu. I checked, and sure enough - it was set to auto.

and you're right about the metering on my landscape shots - I usually have it set to center-weighted. I know with my prior camera, I used to try metering off diff sections of the scene to see what exposure I liked best, but I was having such a difficult time seeing the LCD screen yesterday and I couldn't do that.

We learn from our mistakes!! And thankfully now that we have digital cameras, mistakes are a LOT cheaper than when we had to get film developed!;)

I'll keep experimenting and will post some more shots when I can.
 
Thanks for your comments Justin! And I think you're right - when we first got to the zoo, I still had my sunglasses on (polarized) and took them off when we went into the monkey house and didn't put them back on again. I'll have to remember to try tilting the screen, too - I only did that when I was shooting over the heads of some people a couple of times. As for the "sunny" setting...duh! I remember zipping over it when I first got the camera and was choosing what color background I wanted for the menu. I checked, and sure enough - it was set to auto.

and you're right about the metering on my landscape shots - I usually have it set to center-weighted. I know with my prior camera, I used to try metering off diff sections of the scene to see what exposure I liked best, but I was having such a difficult time seeing the LCD screen yesterday and I couldn't do that.

We learn from our mistakes!! And thankfully now that we have digital cameras, mistakes are a LOT cheaper than when we had to get film developed!;)

I'll keep experimenting and will post some more shots when I can.

Lots of great conversation about the NEX camera's!! I also picked one up during a sale in May and took it to Disney and had a great time with it. I really loved being able to throw it in a small bag and the hand held low light photos were great. I'm so behind on uploading photos but will try and post some when I get to it.

Amy - Nice pictures! I think you will find quite a difference with the change in the LCD setting as I didn't feel like there were problems in seeing in the direct sun like you were describing and I had changed the setting. Justin covered the other two suggestions I had with using the articulating screen and also removing sunglasses. I've become a big big fan of the Sony live view on their camera's and have found these tips help with all of them.

On another note I'm really looking forward to the firmware upgrade and especially the peaking for manual focus assist. From what I've read it can help a lot and I'll say I have had a much harder time manually focusing with the NEX than any other camera. Couldn't be that birthday I had recently and how the arms have come necessary to assist with the eye focusing! :rolleyes1
 
Well gang, I had a chance to experiment some more with my NEX5 yesterday.

First of all: I changed the LCD brightness to "bright sunshine" and lo and behold - absolutely no problems seeing the LCD screen! The LCD hood helped a little, too, but I think you can really get by without it. I hereby withdraw my earlier criticism of the LCD screen; it was user error on my part.

Now that I was able to see the image on the screen, I was able to try metering off diff. parts of the scene to get an exposure I was happy with. Difficult conditions: bright sunshine, in and out of the trees, clouds off and on. And I noticed that the brighter LCD screen tended to make the photos look brighter/lighter than they really were once I uploaded them to my computer.

I was experimenting with diff. settings, mostly switching from aperture priority to landscape. I changed my white balance to daylight (instead of auto). I also "thought" I changed my exposure comp back to 0 to account for the polarizing filter, but it's still on -0.3 on a lot of my photos. I discovered there are 2 places you can change the exposure comp - the dial on the back and in the menus. I had it set to -0.3 in both places, so maybe even though I had the dial changed to 0, the menu setting over-rode that? More on that in my next post where I show you the not-so-good photos.

Here are some of the best ones, straight out of the camera:

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This one is my favorite and had the best exposure of the day:
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This one I had to brighten up a bit:
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And this one is just a touch too dark; the vignetting is from my polarizing filter:
DSC00752.jpg
 
Ok, now for the photos that didn't turn out very well. Any suggestions would be most appreciated!

This shot of the fern was taken in the woods, still had my polarizing filter on, white balance set to daylight. I used Macro mode:
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Same fern, but I switched to aperture priority; other settings stayed the same (and I noticed that exposure comp was -0.3). Notice the yellowish cast. Any idea what happened?
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Here are 2 more; first one shot using landscape mode:
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And then I switched to aperture priority (once again, exposure comp -0.3):
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Could it be the white balance giving it the yellow tint? Today I've been playing around with some of the settings, and I noticed that if I set the white balance to daylight when I'm in aperture priority, once I change to one of the "scene" settings like landscape or macro, the white balance switches to auto (and can't be changed). I'll admit to knowing next to nothing about white balance, other than when I'm shooting concerts on the stage at our high school I usually get better colors switching white balance to tungsten.

Like I said, right now I'm just trying a lot of diff things with this camera, and it looks like I'm finding a lot of things that I don't like. But learning what doesn't work now will help me when I'm taking some of those once-in-a-lifetime vacation photos in the future!

Any and all suggestions/criticisms are welcome!
 
Anyone have the a55? I've got the a200 and I'm looking to upgrade to the a55. I've read a ton of really good reviews for it; seems like the only drawback is the grip is a little on the small side.
 
Anyone have the a55? I've got the a200 and I'm looking to upgrade to the a55. I've read a ton of really good reviews for it; seems like the only drawback is the grip is a little on the small side.

I have had the A55 for about a month now and love it. Tons of features, easy to use, great low light, & great pics etc. No complaints. As for the grip, I have not had any issues with it. I'm a big guy w/ big hands and I find holding the camera to be very comfortable. Love the small size compared to other DSLR's on the market. No complaints there either. Did a couple of hours of shooting yesterday to get in more practice with the A55 and no discomfort or hand cramping at all.

My only suggestion with the A55 is to make sure you have an additional battery, depending on what you are doing w/ it, it can be a battery hog. But on average 200-400 pics per charge.
 
Could it be the white balance giving it the yellow tint? Today I've been playing around with some of the settings, and I noticed that if I set the white balance to daylight when I'm in aperture priority, once I change to one of the "scene" settings like landscape or macro, the white balance switches to auto (and can't be changed). I'll admit to knowing next to nothing about white balance, other than when I'm shooting concerts on the stage at our high school I usually get better colors switching white balance to tungsten.

Like I said, right now I'm just trying a lot of diff things with this camera, and it looks like I'm finding a lot of things that I don't like. But learning what doesn't work now will help me when I'm taking some of those once-in-a-lifetime vacation photos in the future!

Any and all suggestions/criticisms are welcome!

I'd bet it's the white balance causing the color changes, but I couldn't tell you exactly how to correct for it. While I agree with Justin's approach of minimal post processing, this is one feature of Lightroom I use often. The white balance adjustment, especially for raw files is awesome. I don't say this to have you run out and buy Lightroom, but more to say that I know I've seen similar behavior in the past with all of my cameras and was able to correct the coloring using the white balance post processing.
 






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