Mike & Amanda's Gaudi & Seafood Tour of Barcelona, Oct 06 - Part 5 (Days 5 & 6)

Mike Jones

<font color=993300>....nothing clever to say... ju
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Day 5 - Thursday 12 October 2006.

Slept solidly until 5:30am – awoke to find it was still raining so back to bed for another couple of hours. By the time we had showered and left the hotel the rain had more or less stopped, leaving the air much fresher and cooler than yesterday.

We stroll through the old town, past Le Seu (Cathedral) where a flea market is setting up in the main square.

Breakfast follows, at Vildsvin (the oyster bar from the other night). Fresh orange juice, omelette, chocolate pastry and coffees. 12 Euro, and very nice too.

Our objective today is a visit to Parc Guell. This is far enough north to justify a tube ride. We take the Metro from the Liceu station on the Ramblas to Vallcarca, the nearest stop to the estate. From here, there is a signposted, pedestrian route of less than half a mile, although most of it is steeply uphill!

Sadly the rain has returned. We follow the directions and enter the park at what appears to be an alternative access point close to the uppermost level.

A bit of history – Parc Guell was undoubtedly Antoni Gaudi’s most ambitious project after the Sagrada Familia. Commissioned by his patron and friend, Eusebi Guell, it was conceived as a private housing estate of more than 60 dwellings laid out on a hillside overlooking the city. With aspirations to become almost a ‘garden city’, aimed at the wealthy, upwardly-mobile citizens of the period, it was to have included a market, school, recreation areas and church. However, even though it was in progress from 1900 – 1914, it was a commercial failure, and in the end only two houses and some imposing monuments and features were completed. It was subsequently bought by the city and opened as a park in 1922.

We choose to climb from the edge of the park where we enter and are soon standing upon a raised dias with stunning views of the city and surrounding hills. This spot is marked by three crosses and was to have been the site of Gaudi’s church in the original plan.

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We follow one of several, meandering paths off the hilltop and walk down through pleasant, wooded gardens to the main terrace area, an area marked and enclosed by a bright, mosaic-tiled and serpentine bench around its perimeter. The views are excellent and include the two completed buildings below.

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The rain continues to fall and the African vendors are today flogging umbrellas at a very reasonable 3 Euro instead of their usual scarves, bags and sunglasses!

Gaudi actually lived in the park, from 1906, theoretically until his death in 1926, although for many years he effectively camped out at the Sagrada Familia, his enduring love. His house is called Casa Vicens, and was built for the architect in the grounds of the park in 1904. The property is now given over to the Gaudi Museum, and stands a little uphill and to the side of the terrace.

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We make our way to the entrance and join a short but unruly line of predominantly foreign tourists trying to purchase tickets. Our entrance fee for the Sagrada Familia two days ago includes admission to the Museum here, so we eventually manage to bypass the ticket queue and gain entry.

It is a small but appealing collection of effects and artistic works by the great man and some of his contemporaries in various ventures. The exhibition is spread over three floors of what is effectively a modest, private house and we have to pause several times to let seemingly endless numbers of Japanese visitors vacate individual rooms before we can progress.

The quirkier exhibits include Gaudi’s death-mask and the hospital notes ending starkly on the day of his demise!

We leave around 1140 and walk back through the rain to the main entrance area, which lies below the terrace we visited earlier.

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Following the crowds, we descend to a stunning, open-fronted hall of columns (intended to be the estate’s market) situated immediately below the terrace with the serpentine bench. Some of the columns are deliberately built at angles distinctly off the vertical plane, giving the effect of a crumbling, Roman or Greek ruin. The ceiling is scalloped into curves and hollows and is richly decorated with detailed mosaics.

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Amanda takes a few photographs of the modernista buildings below us, at the main entrance, while I take advantage of the shelter here to catch up on my trip report notes.

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After a quick restroom stop we have a closer look at the lodge buildings (the detail of the walls and window grilles is incredible)…

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….before deciding we’ve had enough of the dampness and head off back the 1200 meters to a metro station at Lesseps. It may be the drizzle, but the area around Parc Guell holds little appeal, comprising mainly commercial premises and sorry-looking apartment buildings. There is also a lot of reconstruction around the metro station.
 
We take a tube train back to the lower part of the Ramblas, arriving 1230. It’s still raining. After browsing a few of the semi-permanent stalls at the bottom of the avenue, we head across the road to the harbour area and over the funky bridge to a modern and presumably recent shopping centre.

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Due no doubt to the weather, the place is mobbed today! We aren’t even tempted by the Starbucks (30+ people queueing) and head out the other side, past a cinema and Imax to the far side of the marina adjacent to Barceloneta. The first, imposing building on the dock is Palau de Mar, which hosts some attractive looking seafood restaurants, but the few diners huddled under the patio umbrellas look a bit cold and we cross the main harbourside road, Passeig de Colon, in search of a more cosy venue for lunch.

La Flor de Norte looks interesting and pretty busy with locals. We take one of the last remaining tables and order lunch.

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The atmosphere is pleasant inside – quite traditional, with brick arches and exposed timbers. There’s a long bar to one side, busy with people reading the papers over a coffee or beer, and a large dining area with a mixed but mainly Spanish clientele. We select a bottle of white Rioja, some Catalan toast with sausage as a starter, followed by seafood paella for Amanda and roast rabbit for me. It’s lovely!

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We pay the 37 Euro bill and leave around 240pm. Guess what? Yep, it’s still raining! Not to worry, we have a cunning plan – we return to the Old Town and our new favourite bar, Café Karma in Placa Reial. This square has the advantage of a large, cloister-like arcade around its edge, perfect for a damp day.

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It’s pretty quiet at first but after we settle in with our coffee and brandies, other couples take up the rest of the tables. We enjoy the antics of the various folk passing through the square, including a few cyclists holding umbrellas above their heads as they ride, and not a few dodgily dressed tourists caught unprepared for the wet weather.

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Another round, and then, reluctantly, we head into the surrounding streets in search of last minute gifts for the kids. Many of the shops are closed though, presumably for siesta, or because of the rain? I manage one success, a new mug from Starbucks on Carrer de Ferran, where we have a quick caffeine fix before heading back to the hotel at 530pm.

After a good rest, showers and change we hit the streets again at 8pm. It’s fine and mild outside, and the Rambla seems busy, including a lot of police vehicles and personnel, but the majority of shops are still closed. (It’s not until we arrive home tomorrow that we learn from a fellow tourist sharing our airport parking shuttle that today is a Bank Holiday! Doh!)

We tour the old town streets, looking for gifts for the kids. As the only outlets open are the smaller, crappier type of gift shop, our choices are somewhat limited. Eventually we haggle for a Barcelona cap for DS and a pink T-shirt for DD an head off on a new search – dinner!

In one of the narrow back streets parallel to the Rambla we come across a tiny restaurant called ‘Made in Italy’. It looks attractive, a narrow space just wide enough for a couple of tables side by side but spreading back a long way from the street. Using our popularity barometer, we determine it is busy enough to be safe (always avoid empty places at peak times – there’s a reason!) and are swiftly offered one of the last two tables.

The staff are all young and pleasant. Our choices are quickly made – water, Cava, complimentary basket of lovely bread, and we both select the seafood spaghetti. This is excellent, with loads of shellfish, squid and prawns, and a bit of a chilli kick. There’s just room for a tiramisu, before we pay the 64 Euro bill and leave, around 9.45. Guess what? It’s raining again!

We stroll back to the hotel through the wet streets, arriving around 10.30. After packing and a beer we are soundly asleep before midnight.

DAY 6 – FRIDAY 13TH OCTOBER – The Journey Home.

Another blissfully uninterrupted night ends at 6.15 when my alarm wakes us. After showers we head off to the nearby food market hall, full of the bustle of traders setting up their stalls. We perch on stools at a small, busy café and enjoy a breakfast of freshly squeezed orange juice, coffee and croissants. 5.60 Euro!

Back to the hotel at 740, last few bits in the cases and check out. We walk down the Rambla to the nearest Metro station at Liceu, to catch a train the short distance to Passeig de Gracia, where we buy two tickets (2.40 Euro each) to the airport. The next train arrives within a few minutes (8.20) and we climb aboard.

The train fills up at Barcelona Sants, the main city station, and takes around 25 minutes to the airport terminal, passing again through the areas of reconstruction on the city outskirts.

It takes about 5 minutes to enter the airport proper, via a series of moving walkways. Check-in is quick and painless, and, after a restroom stop, we pass through security early and browse the 70-odd shops in the departure lounge. Nothing tempts, so we blow our last few Euro on a couple of coffees. The plane is on time, around 1115, and the journey without event.

Back to Liverpool John Lennon, swift pick up by the happy chappie from the off-site parking provider, Lenox Farm, and back at the car within 10 more minutes. We head home, stopping along the way to collect our mutt, Ruby, from the dog sitters.

That’s it, folks! Thanks for reading!

Mike & Amanda :)
 
Fantastic piccies Mike ~ I have really enjoyed reading your reports :)
 

Fabulous as aleays Mike, thank you very much for posting this great trippie :thumbsup2
 
Great to see the park again and the lovely food. Best seafood paella I ever had was in Barca :goodvibes
 














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