Making an offer tips?

[kilik64]

I think dvcrm data skews high from a decent chunk of their contracts for sale being owned by them essentially, they like to act like a direct seller for resale basically.

That being said, we bought our ssr through them back in May, price was a little higher than prior reports both by them and rofr thread, but that was also same timeframe Disney really started buying up SSR before the price hike from them direct.

 

[MICKIMINI]

If you can find a fairly priced contract offer full price. Overpriced contracts just won't work with this strategy. I think sellers love to hear "the buyer is offering full price" but then I ask for closing costs and/or current MF's with prior year's MF's the seller's responsibility. My former strategy was $$ off per point, but this strategy has worked far better... I try for those loaded contracts and then rent points for another $15 or so PP savings. It can be considerable savings.

My last two contracts:

$135 SSR 50 points I paid closing and seller MF's so fully loaded with 100 points the seller paid for. About $7 PP savings. Immediately rented out the 2020 points for $550 or another $11 off PP even though they were "fire sale" priced.. Total $18 off PP. I will use the other 50 points value about $10 PP.

$125 OKW 30 points I paid MF's for 2021 and the seller paid closing. About $17 PP savings. Initially the seller said no and I thanked them and declined. A few minutes later the broker called back and the seller accepted! I haven't closed yet, but this also comes with 60 points I will rent next year which will net about $15 PP. I paid $4001 minus $900 +/- rental so net $3100 all in.

The bigger the contract, the more you can demand. Do the math each way before you place your offer. You want to present the best deal for you that looks like a smokin' deal for them. Oh, and all they can say is no. Good luck!

 

[skippytx]

My advice is to just buy the contract that works best for you and not worry about the price of the initial point purchase (within reason). Even a 10 point difference in the initial purchase price is a rounding error when considering the long term costs associated with owning and using DVC. It's more important to get the right contract now, and lock in the price now, as I've watched them go up and up the last 4 years. I bought my BLT contract over 4 years ago at 125 a point when just a few months before they were selling for 105 to 115. By the time I closed 125 a point was a good deal and new contracts were listing in the 135 range. Waiting would have cost me 10 bucks a point.

Once you consider Dues, WDW tickets, food, spending, airfare/travel, and everything else involved with Disney, trying to save a few bucks on the initial point purchase isn't really worth dealing with.

 

[Adg0428]

My advice is to just buy the contract that works best for you and not worry about the price of the initial point purchase (within reason). Even a 10 point difference in the initial purchase price is a rounding error when considering the long term costs associated with owning and using DVC. It's more important to get the right contract now, and lock in the price now, as I've watched them go up and up the last 4 years. I bought my BLT contract over 4 years ago at 125 a point when just a few months before they were selling for 105 to 115. By the time I closed 125 a point was a good deal and new contracts were listing in the 135 range. Waiting would have cost me 10 bucks a point.

Once you consider Dues, WDW tickets, food, spending, airfare/travel, and everything else involved with Disney, trying to save a few bucks on the initial point purchase isn't really worth dealing with.

Wow $125 pp makes me feel ill about the $170pp counter I just agreed to

 

[Adg0428]

If you can find a fairly priced contract offer full price. Overpriced contracts just won't work with this strategy. I think sellers love to hear "the buyer is offering full price" but then I ask for closing costs and/or current MF's with prior year's MF's the seller's responsibility. My former strategy was $$ off per point, but this strategy has worked far better... I try for those loaded contracts and then rent points for another $15 or so PP savings. It can be considerable savings.

My last two contracts:

$135 SSR 50 points I paid closing and seller MF's so fully loaded with 100 points the seller paid for. About $7 PP savings. Immediately rented out the 2020 points for $550 or another $11 off PP even though they were "fire sale" priced.. Total $18 off PP. I will use the other 50 points value about $10 PP.

$125 OKW 30 points I paid MF's for 2021 and the seller paid closing. About $17 PP savings. Initially the seller said no and I thanked them and declined. A few minutes later the broker called back and the seller accepted! I haven't closed yet, but this also comes with 60 points I will rent next year which will net about $15 PP. I paid $4001 minus $900 +/- rental so net $3100 all in.

The bigger the contract, the more you can demand. Do the math each way before you place your offer. You want to present the best deal for you that looks like a smokin' deal for them. Oh, and all they can say is no. Good luck!

Interesting! I offered 3 full price but with seller paying closing and they all declined.

I just offered $10pp less on another and they countered with $5pp less than listing and I agreed to it. Wondering if I got a bad deal.

 

[Sandisw]

Interesting! I offered 3 full price but with seller paying closing and they all declined.

I just offered $10pp less on another and they countered with $5pp less than listing and I agreed to it. Wondering if I got a bad deal.

A deal is only bad if you are buying something you don’t want. If it fits your needs, and you are comfortable with the price, then it’s a good deal.

IMO, never worth it to let something go simply because you are trying to get a lower price when what you have matches what you want. In the long term, it doesn’t amount to a ton.

 

[pianomanzano]

Interesting! I offered 3 full price but with seller paying closing and they all declined.

I just offered $10pp less on another and they countered with $5pp less than listing and I agreed to it. Wondering if I got a bad deal.

I wanna say one of Pete’s early videos talked about offer strategies that said something about negotiating the $pp is better than asking seller to pay any closing costs or dues even if your offer ends up being better for the seller overall. Something about the emotional aspect of making the seller pay something historically paid by the buyer may rub some seller the wrong way. I could be wrong about this (it was one of the first videos I when considering DVC).
Negotiating 101 is setting up your ceiling before negotiating and bring ok with it, so if you were happy with final price, then it was a deal

 

[Adg0428]

A deal is only bad if you are buying something you don’t want. If it fits your needs, and you are comfortable with the price, then it’s a good deal.

IMO, never worth it to let something go simply because you are trying to get a lower price when what you have matches what you want. In the long term, it doesn’t amount to a ton.

Thank you! I just need to get off the ROFR board and looking at what others got passed

 

[Adg0428]

I wanna say one of Pete’s early videos talked about offer strategies that said something about negotiating the $pp is better than asking seller to pay any closing costs or dues even if your offer ends up being better for the seller overall. Something about the emotional aspect of making the seller pay something historically paid by the buyer may rub some seller the wrong way. I could be wrong about this (it was one of the first videos I when considering DVC).
Negotiating 101 is setting up your ceiling before negotiating and bring ok with it, so if you were happy with final price, then it was a deal

That makes sense! My thought was that asking for closing was less money for the seller than a lower price per point

 

[FSUSammy]

Wow $125 pp makes me feel ill about the $170pp counter I just agreed to

I will say that I beat myself up with our $167pp offer when I started seeing some high 150's passing ROFR while we waited to hear back. You can't beat yourself up. If you think you got a good deal and accepted it at $170 then it's a deal. And I will tell you that 5 years from now you won't be even thinking twice about the $170pp offer you made for it because you'll be enjoying the use of those points

 

[Adg0428]

I will say that I beat myself up with our $167pp offer when I started seeing some high 150's passing ROFR while we waited to hear back. You can't beat yourself up. If you think you got a good deal and accepted it at $170 then it's a deal. And I will tell you that 5 years from now you won't be even thinking twice about the $170pp offer you made for it because you'll be enjoying the use of those points

There were banked points, so I keep telling myself it was a good deal

 

[MICKIMINI]

Interesting! I offered 3 full price but with seller paying closing and they all declined.

I just offered $10pp less on another and they countered with $5pp less than listing and I agreed to it. Wondering if I got a bad deal.

If you feel good about your offer stick with it! I've been buying resale for a long time (20+ yrs) and have tried a variety of negotiation strategies. Lately, this has worked for me. Every situation is unique. Congratulations!

 

[FSUSammy]

There were banked points, so I keep telling myself it was a good deal

And there you go it's worth it for the banked points! We had around 120 something banked points coming in to ours so that's how we justified our offer price.

 

[Ginamarie]

If the price is good enough, I'll offer full price. Of course those contracts usually seem to sell faster than I can get my bid in on them! I've lost quite a few of the well priced ones because I didn't bid fast enough even though I bid full price.

The contracts I've actually purchased, I bid lower than the asking price. My first AKV contract was listed at like $116, I offered $106 and they took it. My second AKV contract was listed around $142, we offered $130. They came down to $140. I said $135 was my absolute maximum offer (the contract is fully loaded with 2019 points and 2020 banked points, but the 2019s will expire before we close, so I can't use them). They took the $135.

I've made a bunch of other offers and sometimes the sellers initially say no, and then come back and want to take the offer later. So listing prices are usually not set in stone.

 

[Adg0428]

Typically how long does it take after putting the deposit down to get sent to ROFR?

 

[CCV]

Typically how long does it take after putting the deposit down to get sent to ROFR?

Depends on how long it takes the sellers to execute the contract and for you to sign and make the deposit. If no delays, the title company usually submits within a few days.

 

[Adg0428]

Depends on how long it takes the sellers to execute the contract and for you to sign and make the deposit. If no delays, the title company usually submits within a few days.

Thank you! Just got the email they submitted it to Rofr!

 

[vinmar4]

I'm all confused now and I need help, please.

We are trying to buy some resale points at HHI and currently have direct contracts with August ( smaller contract )and December UYs.
We are probably going to travel anywhere from May to November .

I know I should know the answer to this by this time, but I can't think straight .

Which UY makes more sense to get, most of the time we are at borrowing mode, lol

thank you

 

[Sandisw]

I'm all confused now and I need help, please.

We are trying to buy some resale points at HHI and currently have direct contracts with August ( smaller contract )and December UYs.
We are probably going to travel anywhere from May to November .

I know I should know the answer to this by this time, but I can't think straight .

Which UY makes more sense to get, most of the time we are at borrowing mode, lol

thank you

Honestly, I think it’s about even. With December UY, your trips through August are covered well, with Sept, October, November the Risky months.

With an August UY, the trips for May, June and July would be the risky months.

So, I’d decide based on which months are least likely out of the months you want to travel and pick the UY that puts them out of the danger zone.

 

[wnielsen1]

Interesting! I offered 3 full price but with seller paying closing and they all declined.

I just offered $10pp less on another and they countered with $5pp less than listing and I agreed to it. Wondering if I got a bad deal.

Don't worry about it. $5/point difference on a contract with decades remaining doesn't really amount to much.