Let's talk exposure

[MICKEY88]

I don't shoot sports... ever... so I cannot comment on that. Although, if I did, I would probably shoot shutter priority. But theoretically, if the lighting situation is constant, you can take one shot, make adjustments, and then sent your exposure without having to worry about it again. This, of course, wouldn't work on something like an outdoor football field where the light is constantly changing.

No, the histogram is NOT perfect, but if you know how to read it properly, you know where you need to make adjustments based on where you want your exposure. When you learn how to read your histogram, you make make compensations with your exposure based on what you already know about the 18% gray, etc.

It's not perfect, nor do I solely rely on that reading - because when I add in my off camera flash my histogram becomes super wonky - but having that as a tool to my disposal is really important.

I've never encountered a situation where lighting was consistant shooting sports..



with the histogram.... in the snow scene, when properly exposed , wouldn't the histogram show exposure heavily favoring highlights, possibly blown out highlights..which would lead you to believe you should lower exposure, which isn't the case//

 

[Chikabowa]

I've never encountered a situation where lighting was consistant shooting sports..

Ah... that's why I said theoretically. Practicality wise, it's not the case and I understand that.

with the histogram.... in the snow scene, when properly exposed , wouldn't the histogram show exposure heavily favoring highlights, possibly blown out highlights..which would lead you to believe you should lower exposure, which isn't the case//

If you expose snow 'properly' with a meter reading of 0, then you are going to end up with 18% gray, as you already explained perfectly. So you want to push your exposure further in order to get white white snow. In Aperture mode, you do that through exposure compensation. In manual mode, you do that by adjusting your settings. It's the same thing... just a different method to get there.

To each their own... everyone shoots a different way and not every single trick I use will work for every other person. I do however, believe that the histogram, when used and read properly, can be a very useful tool.

Oh - and Susan - To answer your question about using manual mode quickly... the more you practice the quicker you become. Also the more you become 'one' with your equipment, you'll start to be able to just plug in settings based on your own judgement of the lighting situation and go from there. Practice really does make perfect. As I mentioned, I shoot everything in manual and it's such second nature now, that I just flip my dials so quickly I don't even notice.

 

[MICKEY88]

Ah... that's why I said theoretically. Practicality wise, it's not the case and I understand that.



If you expose snow 'properly' with a meter reading of 0, then you are going to end up with 18% gray, as you already explained perfectly. So you want to push your exposure further in order to get white white snow. In Aperture mode, you do that through exposure compensation. In manual mode, you do that by adjusting your settings. It's the same thing... just a different method to get there.

To each their own... everyone shoots a different way and not every single trick I use will work for every other person. I do however, believe that the histogram, when used and read properly, can be a very useful tool.

Oh - and Susan - To answer your question about using manual mode quickly... the more you practice the quicker you become. Also the more you become 'one' with your equipment, you'll start to be able to just plug in settings based on your own judgement of the lighting situation and go from there. Practice really does make perfect. As I mentioned, I shoot everything in manual and it's such second nature now, that I just flip my dials so quickly I don't even notice.

I know how to make the adjustment but wouldn't relying on the histogram. lead to an incorrect exposure in a snow setting

 

[My2Girls66]

Oh boy! My program mode is sounding so much easier! Thanks for all the replies. They are all very helpful- now to keep these things in my head! Basically, + will darken, - will lighten. I do sort of understand histograms and look at them sometimes. To be safe I guess I should keep the camera in 'P' mode unless I have the time to do any adjusting. I often find myself in those situations where its 'quick take a shot of that!' Is there a fairly safe 'for many situations' shutter speed or aperature to set the camera at?
Thanks again

 

[handicap18]

Oh boy! My program mode is sounding so much easier! Thanks for all the replies. They are all very helpful- now to keep these things in my head! Basically, + will darken, - will lighten. I do sort of understand histograms and look at them sometimes. To be safe I guess I should keep the camera in 'P' mode unless I have the time to do any adjusting. I often find myself in those situations where its 'quick take a shot of that!' Is there a fairly safe 'for many situations' shutter speed or aperature to set the camera at?
Thanks again

I shoot in aperture priority 95% of the time. Manual probably 3% and 1% each for shutter priority and Program.

With today's camera's there isn't much of a reason to shoot in Manual (IMO) very often. I find shooting in aperture priority helps me control my depth of field and with all the info in the view finder it is is pretty easy to make sure your getting a proper exposure based on the aperture your using and the ISO your using, having the camera choose the shutter speed works well (at least for me). If I find I'm getting to slow of a shutter speed, then I'll adjust the f/stop and/or the ISO.

The only time I really use manual is when I'm doing long exposures at night or during the day with a filter.

 

[GrillMouster]

Aperture Priority mode (A) and Shutter Priority mode (S), combined with the exposure compensation dial, works fine when I'm pressured to work fast in situations with rapid changes in light. However, I switch to Manual mode (M) whenever possible, as it allows me to keep consistent exposure on a subject, regardless of changes in the rest of the scene. With A or S modes, the camera meter can cause variations in exposure from shot-to-shot. That variation forces me to spend more time tweaking individual images in post-production, rather than batch-processing. It's just as easy for me to adjust the shutter speed, aperture, or ISO in M mode as it is to dial in exposure compensation in A or S modes. When using flash, I shoot in Manual 100% of the time.

 

[YesDear]

I only use manual when I am using a manual lens from my film lenses. I also use aperture probably 90+% of the time. I agree with everything everyone has said. I actually believe that many never learn what the meter in the camera is trying to get to with the 18% gray scenario. When you do, the process makes much more sense.

Every time you hit the shutter, the camera trys to average out the scene, or your metered area to approximatle 18% neutral grey. If you care it you take a picture of green grass in full sun that is about 18% neutral grey.

 

[boBQuincy]

"Correct" exposure is when something you wanted to be medium gray (in value) is medium gray. That something could be white snow, a black cat, or green grass. The point is there really is no correct exposure other than the one you want. Your meter may give you that, or it may not. It also rarely matters if you use M, Av, Tv, or P to get that exposure.

Read Ansel Adams book "The Negative" for the best explanation of exposure available anywhere.

 

[wenrob]

Basically, + will darken, - will lighten.

While I'm nowhere near experienced as the others have posted here I thought I'd jump in and point out that you have this backwards. + will lighten or brighten, - will darken or underexpose.

I shoot mainly aperture priority and use the histogram as a jumping off point, I don't rely on it, I use it as a loose guide. I know my camera well enough and how it exposes to take a quick look and make a decision from there. Like has been mentioned you will get to where you just know if you do A, B and C, you will get to D. D can happen in any number of ways depending on what you're photographing, your light, your camera and how you want the picture to look. I never thought I'd get it but somehow it just kind of seeps into your brain and sticks eventually.

I did not know about the compensation values for white or black, I will have to tuck those in my brain.

 

[jann1033]

anyone ever used or heard good or bad about this site?
the pros to me are watermarking and set prices on both types of accounts, low as $70 a yr or $7 a month
the maybe cons are the use of their own lab, wondering mainly if anyone has ever seen a photo by them
the cheaper art category works for me since i don't do events and rotate my photos anyway so the 1gb of space isn't an issue
my zenfolio account expires end of week so thinking now would be the time to change. i like zen but for $30 a yr might like this one as much or more, i read a couple reviews that rated it well but looking for personal experience if possible

 

[MICKEY88]

anyone ever used or heard good or bad about this site?
the pros to me are watermarking and set prices on both types of accounts, low as $70 a yr or $7 a month
the maybe cons are the use of their own lab, wondering mainly if anyone has ever seen a photo by them

I'm confused, you can watermark and set prices with zenfolio,, so why switch..???

as far as their lab goes, they are more expensive than mpix, so I would hope they are good..

 

[jann1033]

I'm confused, you can watermark and set prices with zenfolio,, so why switch..???

as far as their lab goes, they are more expensive than mpix, so I would hope they are good..

because you can only set with zenfolio at their $100 yr premium account. so that is a $30 a yr difference. their 8x10 is only. $.25 more. also while i like zenfolio they have changed their gift distributor and they are lots more expensive than they used to be. ( i think the cheapest mousepad they offer comes to about $18 with a profit of less than $5 for me, which is double what places like shutterfly offer.) one of the biggest orders i have had was someone who bought a bunch of mugs and matching mousepads to give to her clients( when zen used ezprints, think they were each about $11 at that time so that was a big difference if you are buying more than one), but imo the prices of that type of stuff on zen now would probably pretty much nullify that cause they aren't as competitive anymore with other photo sites. that might not matter to someone who sells senior pics etc but i don't do that type of work so it is a big deal to me.

 

[MICKEY88]

because you can only set with zenfolio at their $100 yr premium account. so that is a $30 a yr difference. their 8x10 is only. $.25 more. also while i like zenfolio they have changed their gift distributor and they are lots more expensive than they used to be. ( i think the cheapest mousepad they offer comes to about $18 with a profit of less than $5 for me, which is double what places like shutterfly offer.) one of the biggest orders i have had was someone who bought a bunch of mugs and matching mousepads to give to her clients( when zen used ezprints, think they were each about $11 at that time so that was a big difference if you are buying more than one), but imo the prices of that type of stuff on zen now would probably pretty much nullify that cause they aren't as competitive anymore with other photo sites. that might not matter to someone who sells senior pics etc but i don't do that type of work so it is a big deal to me.

wow I never priced the other stuff..just prints.. that is quite a difference..

I got lucky with Zenfolio I got locked in at $80 a year for the premium account..

I guess if I did more merchandise, rather than mosly all prints, I might have to follow you..

 

[jann1033]

yeah too bad cause i really like zenfolio as far as support etc goes. i'm going to do the free trial for exposure and see if i hate it or not

 

[Chikabowa]

I would try them out as they have a free trial. I would also definitely like to see some test prints before committing.

Their pricing is slightly cheaper than my pro labs. But I would want to make sure that the quality was there. Especially if you are selling more product than print.

 

[jann1033]

i can go monthly so i figured once i get some stuff on their site i'd send for some stuff and see how it compares.

 

[littlelaura]

please excuse my lack of knowledge, i'm still learning.
i've been copying all the tips about how to take photos of rides/fireworks/shows etc. sometimes you talk about slow shutter speed and long exposure; but are these the same thing?
someone please explain

 

[VVFF]

please excuse my lack of knowledge, i'm still learning.
i've been copying all the tips about how to take photos of rides/fireworks/shows etc. sometimes you talk about slow shutter speed and long exposure; but are these the same thing?
someone please explain

Yes, those both refer to the same thing.

 

[littlelaura]

thankyou, i don't feel quite so clueless now
i got a sony alpha200 for xmas, and feel a little intimidated by it. i've been shooting in auto mode up to now. but am going to start practicing with various settings; its the only way i'm going to get to know my camera after all

 

[VVFF]

thankyou, i don't feel quite so clueless now
i got a sony alpha200 for xmas, and feel a little intimidated by it. i've been shooting in auto mode up to now. but am going to start practicing with various settings; its the only way i'm going to get to know my camera after all

Try using aperture priority mode most of the time. It shouldn't be that much harder than the auto setting.