Maleficent2
DIS Legend
- Joined
- Sep 15, 1999
- Messages
- 15,453
finally found the recipe....
Hypertufa Containers-
Hypertufa originated in England as a replacement for the rapidly disappearing livestock watering troughs. Traditionally they are used for miniature rock gardens or alpine gardens. I've adapted one to be used as a miniature water garden.
You don't need a lot of skill but you do need patience. Follow the steps below to create your own individualized masterpiece.
First, decide on the size and shape of your container. You may use plastic containers in all sizes and shapes, cardboard boxes, wooden frames, or even wet sand to create your mold. Cover the mold completely with a large garbage bag--eliminate as many wrinkles as possible.
Second, gather your supplies:
1. Sphaghum moss--may be shredded or long-fibered depending on your preference.
2. Perlite or vermiculite -- again a matter of personal choice.
3. Portland cement -- the kind you just add water to.
4. Fibermesh from a cement company (shredded fiberglass). This is the most expensive ingredient needed.
5. Optional: concrete coloring (comes in a powder form at local building stores).
6. A mixing container -- size will depend on the amount of hypertufa you need to mix.
Third, prepare a work location where your new mold can dry for several weeks.
RECIPE:
Recipes vary widely according to the source. I've experimented and the one that works best for me is:
1 part sphaghum moss (packed down if long-fibered) 1 part vermiculite or perlite 2 parts portland cement 1 handful of fibermesh (more of less depending on the size of the container you are working with). It's impossible for me to give you exact amounts for this ingredient.
Enough water to mix the ingredients together into a stiff mud pie! It should hold its shape without pooling water on the surface.
Start patting the mixture onto your mold. Sometimes I do the inside of the plastic wrapped mold--other times I do the outside. It all depends on the final depth and size I desire. Make the bottom of the mold about 2" thick and the sides at least 1" thick (although I prefer 1 1/2-2"). Use pencils or dowels to create several drainage holes in the bottom. Leave these in place while the mold begins drying and remove them only when the mold is partially dry. Make sure the bottom of the mold is perfectly level or the final product will rock slightly.
Allow the mold to begin drying for 2-3 days with daily misting to keep the surface moist. I usually wait another 2 days and then remove the mold. Take out the dowel rods or pencils at this point and make sure your drainage holes haven't accidentally filled in with the hypertufa mixture. Removing the actual mold at this point permits the hypertufa to dry thoroughly on both sides. Otherwise, the part next to the mold stays damp even when the outside of the container looks like it is done. Total drying time for the mold varies according to humidity and temperature.
The mold will sound hollow when tapped if it is completely dry. This may take 2-4 weeks. I find during the summer, 2 weeks is sufficient but in the middle of a rainy period, it may take 4 weeks. Since I dry my molds in my basement, I have to allow extra time during those periods the furnace is not operating. In the middle of the winter the container may be completely dry in 2 weeks but may take 4 weeks during the summer. My test is always "how does it sound when tapped"?
When you first remove the mold, but before the container has thoroughly dried, some people like to use chisels to carve designs into the side or wire brushes to rough up the surface. I just leave mine as is. You could also carve your name in the bottom. Whatever you do, this is the time. Otherwise it becomes too hard to work with.
Mal
Hypertufa Containers-
Hypertufa originated in England as a replacement for the rapidly disappearing livestock watering troughs. Traditionally they are used for miniature rock gardens or alpine gardens. I've adapted one to be used as a miniature water garden.
You don't need a lot of skill but you do need patience. Follow the steps below to create your own individualized masterpiece.
First, decide on the size and shape of your container. You may use plastic containers in all sizes and shapes, cardboard boxes, wooden frames, or even wet sand to create your mold. Cover the mold completely with a large garbage bag--eliminate as many wrinkles as possible.
Second, gather your supplies:
1. Sphaghum moss--may be shredded or long-fibered depending on your preference.
2. Perlite or vermiculite -- again a matter of personal choice.
3. Portland cement -- the kind you just add water to.
4. Fibermesh from a cement company (shredded fiberglass). This is the most expensive ingredient needed.
5. Optional: concrete coloring (comes in a powder form at local building stores).
6. A mixing container -- size will depend on the amount of hypertufa you need to mix.
Third, prepare a work location where your new mold can dry for several weeks.
RECIPE:
Recipes vary widely according to the source. I've experimented and the one that works best for me is:
1 part sphaghum moss (packed down if long-fibered) 1 part vermiculite or perlite 2 parts portland cement 1 handful of fibermesh (more of less depending on the size of the container you are working with). It's impossible for me to give you exact amounts for this ingredient.
Enough water to mix the ingredients together into a stiff mud pie! It should hold its shape without pooling water on the surface.
Start patting the mixture onto your mold. Sometimes I do the inside of the plastic wrapped mold--other times I do the outside. It all depends on the final depth and size I desire. Make the bottom of the mold about 2" thick and the sides at least 1" thick (although I prefer 1 1/2-2"). Use pencils or dowels to create several drainage holes in the bottom. Leave these in place while the mold begins drying and remove them only when the mold is partially dry. Make sure the bottom of the mold is perfectly level or the final product will rock slightly.
Allow the mold to begin drying for 2-3 days with daily misting to keep the surface moist. I usually wait another 2 days and then remove the mold. Take out the dowel rods or pencils at this point and make sure your drainage holes haven't accidentally filled in with the hypertufa mixture. Removing the actual mold at this point permits the hypertufa to dry thoroughly on both sides. Otherwise, the part next to the mold stays damp even when the outside of the container looks like it is done. Total drying time for the mold varies according to humidity and temperature.
The mold will sound hollow when tapped if it is completely dry. This may take 2-4 weeks. I find during the summer, 2 weeks is sufficient but in the middle of a rainy period, it may take 4 weeks. Since I dry my molds in my basement, I have to allow extra time during those periods the furnace is not operating. In the middle of the winter the container may be completely dry in 2 weeks but may take 4 weeks during the summer. My test is always "how does it sound when tapped"?
When you first remove the mold, but before the container has thoroughly dried, some people like to use chisels to carve designs into the side or wire brushes to rough up the surface. I just leave mine as is. You could also carve your name in the bottom. Whatever you do, this is the time. Otherwise it becomes too hard to work with.
Mal
