How to shoot fireworks

Set your focus: First auto focus on castle. Check using range finder . Set the FOCUS to MANUAL (magnify glass AF-A change to MF) and leave it there. Turn off Autofocus on lens itself

...

WHEN FINISHED SHOOTING REVERSE CHECK LIST AND RETURN CAMERA
TO DAYLIGHT SETTINGS.

Yes, do NOT forget to turn your autofocus back ON after you're done shooting fireworks!

Repeat: do NOT forget to turn your autofocus back ON after you're done shooting fireworks!

That's one of the dangers of turning OFF your autofocus. It's happened to me several times: I only remember to turn the autofocus back on hours or days later, and by then, I've already shot several dozens of unfocused pictures! :sad1:
 
Yes, do NOT forget to turn your autofocus back ON after you're done shooting fireworks!

Repeat: do NOT forget to turn your autofocus back ON after you're done shooting fireworks!

That's one of the dangers of turning OFF your autofocus. It's happened to me several times: I only remember to turn the autofocus back on hours or days later, and by then, I've already shot several dozens of unfocused pictures! :sad1:


I'm a little confused about this. Today I was taking some shots of insects and birds, and I had my auto-focus turned off. Without the AF, I had to manually focus in on every shot (especially when changing the viewing distance). Wouldn't you notice that the AF is turned off as soon as you look through the lens, press the shutter button down half way, and it doesn't focus itself?
I was using my telephoto lens, so I'm sure that the difference was much more noticeable, but even with a more standard lens, wouldn't you still see a rather blurred image through your view-finder with the AF turned off?

BTW Marlton Mom, I appreciate all the great info about shooting Fireworks. It's nice to have so much info presented in a easy to understand condensed form. I'm looking forward to my first chance of shooting fireworks, and trying to put some of these suggestions into use.
 
Yes, do NOT forget to turn your autofocus back ON after you're done shooting fireworks!

Repeat: do NOT forget to turn your autofocus back ON after you're done shooting fireworks!

That's one of the dangers of turning OFF your autofocus. It's happened to me several times: I only remember to turn the autofocus back on hours or days later, and by then, I've already shot several dozens of unfocused pictures! :sad1:

LOL very good advice!! I did precisely that in October and didn't realize it until after I took a ride on POTC and every shot was a mess. Lesson learned the hard way.
 
This sunset/night photography has got me flummoxed as to whether or not I should depend totally on my auto program or go with some combination, say Shutter priority, or the Night Portrait mode (i.e. slow sync flash, Flash for subject in foreground, shutter then stays open to expose background). So what do you think??? (Tell me Tell me!!!)

Thanks again for all of you info and inspiration.
BIG :love2:
Marlton MOM

Afaik (on a Canon anyway) Night Portrait mode works about the same as Aperture priority with flash, it sets a long shutter speed to blend the flash and background lighting. I go the easy route and usually use Program mode for night photography (adjusting exposure compensation to suit) unless I am doing HDR, in which case I use Aperture Priority.

Btw, HDR works really well at night since the range of brightnesses are even greater than in daylight, since we often have light sources in the photo. Take more than three exposures if possible.
 

Make sure you don't forget your quick release plate for the tripod. Speaking from experience here :rolleyes1, and reading other's experiences....it can happen. That would make all of the hard work compiling the information for naught.
 
I'm a little confused about this. Today I was taking some shots of insects and birds, and I had my auto-focus turned off. Without the AF, I had to manually focus in on every shot (especially when changing the viewing distance). Wouldn't you notice that the AF is turned off as soon as you look through the lens, press the shutter button down half way, and it doesn't focus itself?
I was using my telephoto lens, so I'm sure that the difference was much more noticeable, but even with a more standard lens, wouldn't you still see a rather blurred image through your view-finder with the AF turned off?

Maybe it's just me. I tend to take pictures at night, so if the autofocus was turned off, maybe it was just a little tougher for me to notice.

Plus, I guess the autofocus problem would have been a lot more obvious if I were (1) taking close-up photos with the autofocus intentionally turned off, and then later (2) trying to take regular non-close-up photos with the autofocus still accidentally turned off.

Instead, my focus was probably manually set at a certain distance (ex. 5 ft), and my subjects would be at 6 ft, so the difference in focus would have been subtle, and I would have thought that the subtle blur might be just my eyes or the viewfinder or that it's harder to see at night.


Back to the OP, since you took the time to write this entire check-list, see if you can do a couple dry runs at home and practice setting up everything, and then putting it all back. Do it a few times at home, so that things will go a bit smoother when you try setting up under the chaos of the Disney crowds.

Actually, that thing about shooting "a totally black frame (eg., one with your lens cap on) for Photoshop Post processing", you might be able to do this at home and leave this black image on your computer, ready for your post-processing later on.

Oh, and go get your camera's sensor cleaned before your trip. I know that there are a bunch of do-it-yourself kits, but I really don't trust myself to clean my camera's sensor. My local camera shop offers this service for a price.

Just some thoughts. :)
 
Holy cow! That's a LOT of information! :scared1:
LOL! That's me! In college my nickname was "Miss Efficiency" If you think that was bad you should see my trip reports!! I only did the one from when we went in 2003 but it covered 7 days worth... and by that I meant reading for you! :rotfl:


Hope you've got all this info printed out somewhere so when the time comes, you can walk through your pre-fireworks check-list.

Yes I have a checklist ready for my camera bag and a flash light to see it with.

The other thing I'd hate to see is if, for some reason, things don't quite work out that you'd get flustered and not be able to enjoy the fireworks. Disney puts on a *beautiful* display of fireworks, so please take some time to sit back and soak them in. Don't stress too much over trying to capture THE perfect series of fireworks shots.

I know what you mean, I realized that I would have been stressing if I hadn't taken the time to plan it out and practice, as it were, before hand. I have to laugh at myself because I have a million shots of my kitchen cabinets, which is where the camera is pointed, mounted on the tripod, when I was practicing the settings and figuring out the remote. The simple fact that the remote I use needs you to press and release to open the shutter and press and release to close it would have given me conniptions if I have to figure that out on the fly. You would think that press and hold would have been the logical sequence but not so with this remote! The other 'Gotcha' I experienced with the remote was that the icon that looks like the one that you should use is actually a 2 second remote release delay setting!! WHO would want that!!!! ACK! :confused:

I am sure that I will be prepared to the point where I will be ooohing and ahhhing and pressing and releasing rather than @%$*&! and &%$#@* and looking at my camera! :scared:


(remember to focus about 1/3-way into the scene), be at my lens's theoretical "sweet spot", and avoid the effects of diffraction that occur with smaller apertures. The longer shutter speeds will hopefully make folks who walk through my picture disappear.[/B]

This was golden advice :thumbsup2 and I will have to check this out by taking pix of the Christmas lights on our house. I wonder if I can make a photo album from that and the 3000 pix of the kitchen cabinets... :rolleyes1

Thanks for the tips! You have already helped me just from your suggestions!

:love2:
Marlton Mom
 
/
Oh, and go get your camera's sensor cleaned before your trip. I know that there are a bunch of do-it-yourself kits, but I really don't trust myself to clean my camera's sensor. My local camera shop offers this service for a price.

My D60 has a sensor foofer (Technical name: Clean Image Sensor) which removes dust and annoying people from the Low Pass Filter that protects the Camera image sensor. I followed the directions in my manual and inspected the low pass filter and it was pristine! This was a great tip.

If you don't have your camera's manual they can usually be found online. I keep mine in the camera bag and it is getting dog eared and highlighted to death. If I should ever lose it I know I can reference it via the net and perhaps if needed, order a new one. this is good to know if you are traveling and having issues with your equipment.

Thanks for the sensor tip. I would not have thought to check it before a major project.

:love2:
Marlton Mom

PS. For the more daring and most likely drunk there is always the Barbieri method of cleaning your sensor. It involves the use of your tongue, rubbing alcohol and a match. I believe this method is discussed in more detail in Mark's upcoming book, "Children, Portraits and Boogers, post processing for the k-12 set". ;)
 
Maybe it's just me. I tend to take pictures at night, so if the autofocus was turned off, maybe it was just a little tougher for me to notice.

Plus, I guess the autofocus problem would have been a lot more obvious if I were (1) taking close-up photos with the autofocus intentionally turned off, and then later (2) trying to take regular non-close-up photos with the autofocus still accidentally turned off.

Instead, my focus was probably manually set at a certain distance (ex. 5 ft), and my subjects would be at 6 ft, so the difference in focus would have been subtle, and I would have thought that the subtle blur might be just my eyes or the viewfinder or that it's harder to see at night. :)

I appreciate the heads up. I'm still really new with a DSLR, and so far the only time I've really had an opportunity to take it off of AF was the other day when shooting close ups of birds and insects (in pretty bright day) So I'm sure the difference was pretty extreme.
I'll be sure to try and keep a close eye on the AF when shooting in lower light or at closer distances, and hopefully remember to reset it.
Knowing that others (much more experienced photographers) have an occasional problem with this is more than enough reason to try an make a point to not forget. :thumbsup2
 
Re: sensor. You can clean it yourself if you're concerned about it... but most of the time, a few blasts with a Rocket Blaster will take care of it. There are a few horror stories around here of people paying a lot of money for professional sensor cleaning and it comes back dirtier than before!

Make sure there that sensor is actually dirty before bothering doing anything about it... usually that means to shoot something plain white (like just a piece of paper) at a very small aperture (like F22) then do an "auto levels" or similar when it's on your computer. (The free Irfanview can do this if you don't have a fancy-shmancy image editor.)

use the viewfinder cover
Not necessary; this only affects the camera getting an exposure reading. Since you are setting your own exposures by using bulb mode, this will not make any difference. There is no worry of light bleeding through to your actual picture either, since the viewfinder is blocked off when the photo is being taken.

Ok, so with all that I haven't decided where I want to stand, how I want to beat senseless the late comers that will stand in my way and which one of my lenses to use. (Tokina 11-16 F2.8 IF DX, Nikon AFS Nikkor VR 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 G, or the, not really for fireworks, Nikon DX AFS Nikkor 55-200mm 1.4-5.6 G ED).
Generally, most lenses will give you a nice sharp photo, but one with more aperture blades (generally that means higher-quality lenses) will produce more points on the stars you get around brightly-colored static lights in your shot. (You'll see this more in non-fireworks shots but you still still see it happen sometimes in fireworks shots especially if there is a shell still flying up in your shot.) Most cheap lenses have 6 aperture blades, which means a 6-pointed star. Better lenses usually have 8-9. An odd number will produce double the points, so a 9-blade aperture will actually give you 18 points.

For night shots using ambient lighting that are not fireworks related what settings do y'all recommend? I'll still be using that tripod and the remote release. Should I trust my meter on automatic mode for shutter, F stop and ISO and bracket around that + - EV steps (2 each way)? I would like to do HDR post processing as well, that's why I would bracket.
Since you are on a tripod, it's definitely worth bracketing since there's no downside to doing it. Take a look at the shots afterwards to make sure that at least one of them seems to have the exposure that you like. If you're after HDR, make sure that between the shots that you're taking cover capturing all the shadows and highlights.

This sunset/night photography has got me flummoxed as to whether or not I should depend totally on my auto program or go with some combination, say Shutter priority, or the Night Portrait mode (i.e. slow sync flash, Flash for subject in foreground, shutter then stays open to expose background). So what do you think??? (Tell me Tell me!!!)
I always do Aperture priority and if necessary, use exposure compensation or change the metering mode.

Overall - you're got a lot of good info there but I think you may be overthinking it a little bit. :) As long as you are shooting at your lowest ISO, you are not likely to need to do noise reduction on the final image. Manually combining extra shots afterwards is extra work that you'll probably not want to do, at least not for a while. If you're going that far, you can often bring up or down the exposure on just the castle without needing an extra photo. (You are shooting in Raw, right?)

The thing I've found is that it's easy to take a lot of photos during a fireworks show. I tend to figure on a few ones that are "off" and even without trying very hard, get more than enough that are "good." To the point where I was happy enough with my Wishes shots from my first DSLR trip (I shot it three times, using an entry-level DSLR and cheap lens twice and once with a fisheye) that I really haven't bothered shooting it since then. Illuminations is another story though :) it's much more challenging than Wishes IMHO and there are many different ways of shooting it. I guess what I'm saying is to not stress out too much - as long as you have the basics (tripod, remote shutter release, low ISO, good aperture), you'll almost certainly get some shots that you're happy with! Best of luck!
 
PS. For the more daring and most likely drunk there is always the Barbieri method of cleaning your sensor. It involves the use of your tongue, rubbing alcohol and a match. I believe this method is discussed in more detail in Mark's upcoming book, "Children, Portraits and Boogers, post processing for the k-12 set". ;)
Okay, this had me crying in my coffee this morning!:lmao::rotfl2::lmao:

You've got quite the list happening here. As a fellow list maker I'm impressed. I would take Groucho's advice in trying not to over think it though. Night shots on a tripod are actually pretty easy peasy, You'll come away with more keepers then you think.:goodvibes
 
You can file that next to Scr8pn (I think I have their name a little off) who has gone on record as licking his lens to get it clean! :eek: :lmao:

We are heading down to WDW to meet up with Skr8pn later this month. I will remember to keep my lens cap on when we are with him! ;) Apart from licking lenses, he also occasionally rests his camera on his DW's head as a "MandyPod"!

We are looking forward to this trip, they are a lot of fun to travel with! :)
 
I am pretty new to all the fireworks and night photos. I got a Fuji S1500 for Christmas, and it has a bunch of optional settings.

Can someone recommend a good seeting for taking photos of fireworks for a realative novice.

I am kind of confused by the f1, and 400, or 100?

Help please so I can prevent an ugly pic night at the world.
 
f/# is the f/stop, aka aperture. Works in a similar way that the pupil of your eye works. Its the opening in the lens that helps allow light in.

The 400 or 100 would be the ISO, aka film speed. Typically the lower number you'd use outdoors when there is lots of light, the higher number you'd use as the light gets lower or you want to get a fast shutter speed to stop action.

The 3rd piece of the puzzle is your shutter speed. These numbers look like fractions, 1/60th, 1/125th, etc... This is how long the shutter stays open.

For fireworks and other night nights around WDW you will first and foremost need a tripod. To get good night shots you need to leave the shutter open for a long time and doing this hand held is very difficult.

For fireworks,,,, f/8, ISO100 and for a shutter speed you'll want anywhere from 2-10 seconds. This will hold true for other night scape shots as well. If you don't have a remote shutter release for your camera or your camera doesn't have that option, use the self timer. Set it to 2 seconds. This will give you enough time to have the camera steady after you've pressed the shutter and you won't get a blury shot from camera movement from pressing the shutter.

You can practice everything before you leave. Take night shots of your house at various shutter speed settings (1 second, 2 seconds, 4 seconds, 10 seconds, 20 seconds) so you have a better idea of you need to do with your camera. You can also head to the nearest city or downtown area and do the same thing. The more you know before hand the better off you'll be.
 
Thank you for all the info. I will try this. I do not have a way to take the pictures with a wirless control. I will have to use the timer. I will mess with the setting.
 
I have never been able to get good pictures of fireworks. We just got the Canon xSi DSLR and I am still learning how to use it. I want to get some fireworks shots, esp when we go to MVMCP. I'll be able to practice on 4th of July I guess, but does anyone have any tips for me?? TIA
 
The suggestions in the thread referenced above were excellent allowing me to get some really excellent pictures on our last trip.

The only thing I would add to what is in that thread is - look for several people in scooters/ECVs sitting next to each other.

I setup the tripod behind them and there was enough distance between the camera and the first row of standing people that I had no worries about any important part of the castle being blocked by someone's head.
 













Receive up to $1,000 in Onboard Credit and a Gift Basket!
That’s right — when you book your Disney Cruise with Dreams Unlimited Travel, you’ll receive incredible shipboard credits to spend during your vacation!
CLICK HERE







New Posts







DIS Facebook DIS youtube DIS Instagram DIS Pinterest

Back
Top